Quote from securesupplies on April 20th, 2012, 02:36 PM

Quote from ~Russ/Rwg42985 on April 19th, 2012, 04:25 AM

well... there is to Manny ways to determine what the primary really should look like...

so I'm kinda making my own.

first i have one wrap over the inductors...
just so i can test it or use it as feed back...



The second one i haven't wrapped yet but is going to be a full wrap one wire  start to finish "longitudinal wrapped"  "space relationship" (to each wire on the primary) then back on top of the first layer " layered bidirectional " (opposite) "across spiral-wrap coils" the full length...  " dual primary" i think means 2 layers but I'm not sure...

there is 3 cavitys:

inductors are in the (red) cavity's "forming individual
spiral-wrap  coils" bobbin (502)

the primary (Green) is wrapped a "longitudinal wrapped across spiral-wrap coils" in a signal cavity  " layered bidirectional " like a normal solenoid coil...  bobbin (504)

and secondary cavity's (Blue) wrapped just like the inductors but a single wire...
"composed of individual spiral wrapped
coils"  bobbin (506)




been really trying to figure it out... lol kinda wordy but that's stan for ya! :)

Blessings! ~Russ

got this


 notes


fond form last letter from stan

dan

ah, yes but one problem with stan's work is you must know what system/stage he is talking about.

this is the ( 8Xa) the 8xa used a single bifilar wound coil. like 18 awg. that's it.

so this diagram you have is for a different coil set... ??? it can get confusing! :)

Thanks ~Russ

Quote from ~Russ/Rwg42985 on April 20th, 2012, 09:14 PM

Quote from securesupplies on April 20th, 2012, 02:36 PM

Quote from ~Russ/Rwg42985 on April 19th, 2012, 04:25 AM

well... there is to Manny ways to determine what the primary really should look like...

so I'm kinda making my own.

first i have one wrap over the inductors...
just so i can test it or use it as feed back...



The second one i haven't wrapped yet but is going to be a full wrap one wire  start to finish "longitudinal wrapped"  "space relationship" (to each wire on the primary) then back on top of the first layer " layered bidirectional " (opposite) "across spiral-wrap coils" the full length...  " dual primary" i think means 2 layers but I'm not sure...

there is 3 cavitys:

inductors are in the (red) cavity's "forming individual
spiral-wrap  coils" bobbin (502)

the primary (Green) is wrapped a "longitudinal wrapped across spiral-wrap coils" in a signal cavity  " layered bidirectional " like a normal solenoid coil...  bobbin (504)

and secondary cavity's (Blue) wrapped just like the inductors but a single wire...
"composed of individual spiral wrapped
coils"  bobbin (506)




been really trying to figure it out... lol kinda wordy but that's stan for ya! :)

Blessings! ~Russ

got this

notes


fond form last letter from stan

dan

ah, yes but one problem with stan's work is you must know what system/stage he is talking about.

this is the ( 8Xa) the 8xa used a single bifilar wound coil. like 18 awg. that's it.

so this diagram you have is for a different coil set... ??? it can get confusing! :)

Thanks ~Russ

OK  

We Should Separate VIC build type  clearly into Style for
People to follow and rebuild confidently

and start to refine info precisley for every one as getting hard to follow for sure

Can you List the VIC Type and Application for those reading this
and I will document it in the final guide to match it .

This way we have faster uptake  

PLease comment

VIC Style 1  Square Bobbin  used for ...... and with .....


VIC Style 2  Inner outer core round bobbin used for ...... and with .....


VIC Style 3 Rotary Vic  Alternator used for ...... and with .....


VIC Style 4 9XG diagram  Same as 3 ? or different used for ...... and with .....


All members  comment please.

I Will post into final guides which are slowly taking shape

thread should be adjusted to cover them more individually and specifically as
knowledge goes to next levels

Dan

ok guys i have been hard at it!

here we go...

this is acetal delrin and man i think i like this plastic a lot!

i thought it was not as durable but its as strong or stronger than UHMW and much better to work with... but you get what you pay for also...

hey! look at that! a real replica... lol the first 13 bobbin cavity iv ever seen replicated... Wink lol

starting with a new 13 bobbin cavity...

this is the exact using stans original drawings found here:
http://open-source-energy.org/rwg42985/russ/Injector/VIC%20Design_RWGresearch.com.pdf

[attachment=1650]
[attachment=1651]
[attachment=1652]
[attachment=1653]
[attachment=1654]

ok now here is the kicker... i dont know if i was a fraction off or if the dezighn is flawed... it was mentioned that the wire would not fin in the bobbin... i know my inner outside was a fraction small and my slots were a fraction small my depth may have been off a fraction also... with that said. i think it would all fit but just barely as you can see here:
this is the 430FR wire from stans estate.

[attachment=1655]
[attachment=1656]

the first one got in a bind and i kincked the wire here and there and i was not happy but what else could i do... so the wire was just a test fit... not really usable...

here i warped it with that fiberglass tape... works well but its a bit thick.

[attachment=1657]

now. i really think i figured out how the primary winding is suppose to be... from my other bobbin tests here is what i did.

i marked out where the slots were.

[attachment=1658]

then i warped the wire right on top. one winding only. this is 22 awg.

[attachment=1659]
[attachment=1660]

then i taped that up:
[attachment=1661]

for the secondary i did have some 30 awg heavy build wire so i just used it but i do have some triple build 36 and 38 awg coming. will need to test with that next as i did see all kinds of arcing... :)

[attachment=1662]
[attachment=1663]

here it is on the same core i had from don. interestingly its really close to the drawings but its too long...

[attachment=1664]
[attachment=1665]

here it is next to the other 14 cavity bobbin cavity:
[attachment=1666]
[attachment=1667]

now. test time...

interestingly the SS 430 wire was arcing all over the place on to the outter steel lamanets... it was crazy voltages coming out...

the bad thing is that it burned off the insulation from the ss wire and i believe it shorted internally... the coating is very bad and dose not stick well to the wire so i think my kinks did it in... :(  it is else old stuff coming from the estate... will need to try the tests with the new stuff when it gets here... when ever that is...

here is some photos... i could get about 1.5" arc at the fight frequency...

[attachment=1668]
[attachment=1669]

here is a video of the test... as i was filming it stopped arcing as i believe the ss wire shorted and was socking up all the BEMF!!!
its a bit of a download or you may stream it i think... its a .MOV file

214MB file...
may need to right click and save as:

http://open-source-energy.org/rwg42985/russ/13%20cavity%20arcs%20VIC.MOV

and there you have it... that was alot of work for 2 days... :)

i also have some of those connecters ordered.. :)
http://octopart.com/11351-keystone-10526196

blessings! let me know some thoughts!

i will make a new video today with all this and post it here also:

~Russ

Very nice! Do you have a page on your site where you list your suppliers? I've mostly been using Radio Shack and a locally run electronics store for parts, but they don't carry giant rolls of magnet wire for transformers among other things like high voltage insulating plastic. D:

Also, what is the material you're using for the bobbins?

Quote from BAM5 on June 4th, 2012, 03:50 AM

Very nice! Do you have a page on your site where you list your suppliers? I've mostly been using Radio Shack and a locally run electronics store for parts, but they don't carry giant rolls of magnet wire for transformers among other things like high voltage insulating plastic. D:

Also, what is the material you're using for the bobbins?

updated my first post:

Quote

this is acetal delrin and man i think i like this plastic a lot!

the wire i just get off line where ever it is cheapest.

i dont have a list...

Some sort of "Electrical Potting" will solve the shorting problem. Potting is standard practice when constructing high voltage transformers and coils. Look at ignition coils for automobiles as an example. They are always either encased in oil or encapsulated in resin. Not to mention, typical ignition wires use highly resistive materials, such as steel, in order to deter arcing from the wires to the mass of the engine, which acts as virtual ground.

Good luck! And thank you for sharing!

Nice job Russ! Too bad about the arcing inside the coil.  I bet newer enameled wire will be much better.:cool:

Just had a thought, what if we had a container of resin with a pulley mounted inside it.  A couple pulleys at the top of the container might be needed too.  Probably should mount the container to a table top to avoid spills.   When the bobbin is being spooled wire is fed through the resin container so that it gets an extra coating.   The resin would cure in the bobbin, most likely making it harder to unspool later if needed, but would be extra insulated...

Nate

Quote from Hydron on June 4th, 2012, 08:31 AM

Some sort of "Electrical Potting" will solve the shorting problem. Potting is standard practice when constructing high voltage transformers and coils. Look at ignition coils for automobiles as an example. They are always either encased in oil or encapsulated in resin. Not to mention, typical ignition wires use highly resistive materials, such as steel, in order to deter arcing from the wires the the mass of the engine, which acts as virtual ground.

Good luck! And thank you for sharing!

Thanks for the thoughts! I was indeed going to do this at some point. Looks like I may just need to start now... After seeing the power coming off this thing!

What kind of tape can I use if i use an oil bath?

Also is there a place I can get the real oil? Not just some vegi or the like...

Last, is derlin going to be ok with that type of oil?!?!

Nate! Yeah man! I have though about that one when we were playing with Rodin coils... ;)

Just don't know how to set that one up and with what kinda resin??!?!

Thanks! ~Russ

Quote from ~Russ/Rwg42985 on June 4th, 2012, 11:00 AM

Quote from Hydron on June 4th, 2012, 08:31 AM

Some sort of "Electrical Potting" will solve the shorting problem. Potting is standard practice when constructing high voltage transformers and coils. Look at ignition coils for automobiles as an example. They are always either encased in oil or encapsulated in resin. Not to mention, typical ignition wires use highly resistive materials, such as steel, in order to deter arcing from the wires the the mass of the engine, which acts as virtual ground.

Good luck! And thank you for sharing!

Thanks for the thoughts! I was indeed going to do this at some point. Looks like I may just need to start now... After seeing the power coming off this thing!

What kind of tape can I use if i use an oil bath?

Also is there a place I can get the real oil? Not just some vegi or the like...

Last, is derlin going to be ok with that type of oil?!?!

Nate! Yeah man! I have though about that one when we were playing with Rodin coils... ;)

Just don't know how to set that one up and with what kinda resin??!?!

Thanks! ~Russ

I just did a quick search and came up with "Dolph's AC-43C" for a varnish.
http://www.dolphs.com/pdfs/Dol_VarnishsResin_chart.pdf

They are using it on Tesla coils:
http://www.tesla-coil.com/coilwindingtips.htm

I had thought about fiberglass resin, but now that i think about it that stuff gets really hot when it's curing.  Probably would melt the bobbin.

Nate

Quote from firepinto on June 4th, 2012, 11:11 AM

Quote from ~Russ/Rwg42985 on June 4th, 2012, 11:00 AM

Quote from Hydron on June 4th, 2012, 08:31 AM

Some sort of "Electrical Potting" will solve the shorting problem. Potting is standard practice when constructing high voltage transformers and coils. Look at ignition coils for automobiles as an example. They are always either encased in oil or encapsulated in resin. Not to mention, typical ignition wires use highly resistive materials, such as steel, in order to deter arcing from the wires the the mass of the engine, which acts as virtual ground.

Good luck! And thank you for sharing!

Thanks for the thoughts! I was indeed going to do this at some point. Looks like I may just need to start now... After seeing the power coming off this thing!

What kind of tape can I use if i use an oil bath?

Also is there a place I can get the real oil? Not just some vegi or the like...

Last, is derlin going to be ok with that type of oil?!?!

Nate! Yeah man! I have though about that one when we were playing with Rodin coils... ;)

Just don't know how to set that one up and with what kinda resin??!?!

Thanks! ~Russ

I just did a quick search and came up with "Dolph's AC-43C" for a varnish.
http://www.dolphs.com/pdfs/Dol_VarnishsResin_chart.pdf

They are using it on Tesla coils:
http://www.tesla-coil.com/coilwindingtips.htm

I had thought about fiberglass resin, but now that i think about it that stuff gets really hot when it's curing.  Probably would melt the bobbin.

Nate

Say Russ, preform a test using the kapton tape, I use it in the hot ends for the 3D printers. It withstands allot of heat and it's a good insulator. You can buy it in different widths and mil thicknesses.
http://www.kaptontape.com/1_Mil_Kapton_Tapes.php

They also use it in aircraft  and spacecraft, for insulating wire.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kapton
See if this might work.:D

Quote from Jeff Nading on June 4th, 2012, 12:44 PM

Say Russ, preform a test using the kapton tape, I use it in the hot ends for the 3D printers. It withstands allot of heat and it's a good insulator. You can buy it in different widths and mil thicknesses.
http://www.kaptontape.com/1_Mil_Kapton_Tapes.php

They also use it in aircraft  and spacecraft, for insulating wire.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kapton
See if this might work.:D

According to Wikipedia, its' uses include aircraft, spacecraft, X-ray, and 3D-printing.
Out of the 4 above, which doesn't belong?  :P

Russ,

The bobbins look great? And your right about the originals, 13 Cavities.

Did you machine those using a CNC, or by hand with a lathe and mill?
How long did it take you per bobbin?
What speed (RPM) did you use?


I machined some a few years back but they took an incredible amount of time, then after I wound the chokes I had 12K ohms each.
One thing I noticed with delrin, if you go too fast or cut too much it heats up and warps. It definately takes patience.

One thing I noticed is you had no insulation on the secondary which you mentioned in the video it arcing to the core.....There is another product for HV transformers which is known as fish paper in the industry. It's thinner than the kapton tape and works well. Do an online search for Fish paper and you'll find a ton of places to buy it at....You can also find it on ebay ocassionly.


Once again, great job Russ!

Quote from HMS-776 on June 4th, 2012, 05:44 PM

Russ,

The bobbins look great? And your right about the originals, 13 Cavities.

Did you machine those using a CNC, or by hand with a lathe and mill?
How long did it take you per bobbin?
What speed (RPM) did you use?


I machined some a few years back but they took an incredible amount of time, then after I wound the chokes I had 12K ohms each.
One thing I noticed with delrin, if you go too fast or cut too much it heats up and warps. It definately takes patience.

One thing I noticed is you had no insulation on the secondary which you mentioned in the video it arcing to the core.....There is another product for HV transformers which is known as fish paper in the industry. It's thinner than the kapton tape and works well. Do an online search for Fish paper and you'll find a ton of places to buy it at....You can also find it on ebay ocassionly.


Once again, great job Russ!

Looked up fish paper,
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fishpaper
Does not have adhesive that I could see, you would have to treat it with paraffin in a moist environment. Also you can buy kapton tape at 1 mil thickness and has a higher dielectric than fish paper, but it's Russ's call on that :D, thanks Jeff.

Quote from ~Russ/Rwg42985 on June 4th, 2012, 04:20 AM

Quote from BAM5 on June 4th, 2012, 03:50 AM

Very nice! Do you have a page on your site where you list your suppliers? I've mostly been using Radio Shack and a locally run electronics store for parts, but they don't carry giant rolls of magnet wire for transformers among other things like high voltage insulating plastic. D:

Also, what is the material you're using for the bobbins?

updated my first post:

Quote

this is acetal delrin and man i think i like this plastic a lot!

the wire i just get off line where ever it is cheapest.

i dont have a list...

Wow! Great work..

Here's a few for you guys..

California Fine Wire Company
http://www.finewire.com/index.php?id=218

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/category/825475/Wire/Cable/Magnet-Wire/1.htm

Electronics Express Enamle Magnet Wire
http://www.elexp.com/cbl_mg30.htm  1/4lb and 1 lb spools

Magnet4Less - Essex Magnet Wire     7lb & 11lb spools
http://www.magnet4less.com/index.php?cPath=9_20

Vetco Surplus       1/2 lb spools
http://shop.vetcosurplus.com/catalog/default.php?cPath=170_172

http://www.weicowire.com/magnetwirecontents.htm

Quote

I just did a quick search and came up with "Dolph's AC-43C" for a varnish.
http://www.dolphs.com/pdfs/Dol_VarnishsResin_chart.pdf

cant find a place to buy it?

Quote

Say Russ, preform a test using the kapton tape, I use it in the hot ends for the 3D printers. It withstands allot of heat and it's a good insulator. You can buy it in different widths and mil thicknesses.
http://www.kaptontape.com/1_Mil_Kapton_Tapes.php

They also use it in aircraft and spacecraft, for insulating wire.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kapton
See if this might work.Big Grin

humm that may work. will it stick if put in an oil bath?

Quote

Did you machine those using a CNC, or by hand with a lathe and mill?
How long did it take you per bobbin?
What speed (RPM) did you use?

used a lathe and it took about 6 hrs for the little one including holes and such.

and it took about 5 hrs for the bugger one... that one is much easier...

but i need to take my time next time and match it more closely... This one is with in .005" tolerance.  But i need to make it even closer. on my next one.

used a mill for the slots with a chopped up drill but... not the best but it got the job done... i need to order an end mill that small next time...

the speed was not that fast. around 300rpm i think is what i was cutting at.

if it gets hot you need sharper bits or slower speeds. bits need to be really sharp! i did not have a problem. the slots was a home made tool. took some time to make but its sharp!!! and right at .065"

[attachment=1673]
[attachment=1674]

but I'm going to make a slightly bigger one for the next bobbin as i think the tool needs to be slightly oversize as the plastic kind of " folds" and then the slot is slightly small. that's why i think the wire did not fit!

Quote

I machined some a few years back but they took an incredible amount of time, then after I wound the chokes I had 12K ohms each.
One thing I noticed with delrin, if you go too fast or cut too much it heats up and warps. It definately takes patience.

yes sharp bits!! and also derlin put off an extremely toxic gas if it gets to the point of that much heat. !!! dont breath it in if its over heated! (burning)

Quote

One thing I noticed is you had no insulation on the secondary which you mentioned in the video it arcing to the core.....There is another product for HV transformers which is known as fish paper in the industry. It's thinner than the kapton tape and works well. Do an online search for Fish paper and you'll find a ton of places to buy it at....You can also find it on ebay ocassionly.

hummm ok, ill check it out. seems its not a tape?

Quote

Looked up fish paper,
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fishpaper
Does not have adhesive that I could see, you would have to treat it with paraffin in a moist environment. Also you can buy kapton tape at 1 mil thickness and has a higher dielectric than fish paper, but it's Russ's call on that Big Grin, thanks Jeff.

yeah, going to need to look in to this one!

Quote

Wow! Great work..

Quote

Here's a few for you guys..

California Fine Wire Company
http://www.finewire.com/index.php?id=218

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-sto...Wire/1.htm

Electronics Express Enamle Magnet Wire
http://www.elexp.com/cbl_mg30.htm 1/4lb and 1 lb spools

Magnet4Less - Essex Magnet Wire 7lb & 11lb spools
http://www.magnet4less.com/index.php?cPath=9_20

Vetco Surplus 1/2 lb spools
http://shop.vetcosurplus.com/catalog/def...th=170_172

http://www.weicowire.com/magnetwirecontents.htm

here is where i got the triple build wire:

http://www.electromechanicsonline.com/product.asp?pid=714

http://www.electromechanicsonline.com/product.asp?pid=695

only got one LB or each... hope its enough!

cant find it anywhere else on small spools.

i did ask MWS wire company for a quote and it was 1192$ for 1 LB as they want to sell it in big spools..

if we get 5 LB it drops to 562 per LB! haha

but if we get like a 20LB spool or something it may be worth it...

Code: [Select]

1.00 LB 35 TPN-180 $1,192.00 LB
NEMA MW83-C
2.00 LB $827.00 LB
5.00 LB $562.00 LB
DELIVERY: ALLOW 5-6 WEEKS TO SHIP ARO
1.00 LB IS A MINIMUM QUANTITY FOR THIS ITEM

thanks guys!!! ~Russ

well... i found my short...

looks like the inductors found the " shortest path to ground"... lol a " bypass" haha

it was shorting out the primary! lol

here is the mess:

what a waist... all wall that's what R/D is all about egh?

[attachment=1675]
[attachment=1676]
[attachment=1677]
[attachment=1678]
[attachment=1679]
Burnt the plastic! lol
[attachment=1680]

i hope those SS wire samples get here soon!!!

then we can place an order! :)

~Russ

On the kapton tape Russ, you might not need the oil using the tape, allot less mess than the fish paper [paraffin], also you will need the kapton tape on the glass of the heated bed for the 3D printer. If the kapton tape will not work for the coil and you find you need to use oil, the fish paper treated with paraffin could be used but would have to be hot or melted as you wrap the coil with it, more mess and would be very hard for you to disassemble in the event you need to rewind the bobbins, just some thoughts, thanks, Jeff.:D

PS: That's a very good price on the wire, buying in bulk, also, when you find out about the SS wire, I would like to go in with you to purchase some, so please count me in.:D

Wow that coil really packs a punch.  A nice wide piece of kapton would probably work nice under the primary.


Nate

I found Dolphs AC-43 here at $52.57 a gallon plus hazmat fees.  Kind of expensive!  The page won't load in my firefox, but did in IE:

https://shop.eis-inc.com/sap(bD1lbiZjPTAwMQ==)/bc/bsp/sap/zeis/index.htm?prod_nbr=DOLAC43G

I did more looking at Tesla coil sites and more of them just recommend a polyurethane varnish.  I suppose they mean something like Minwax used for wood?  They also talk about baking the moisture out of their coil forms or bobbins before they seal them.  Maybe the fiberglass tape had some moisture from humidity?



Nate

Russ I was just thinking , you could also go to a motor rewind shop and either purchase or ask where to buy the red insulating spray paint that Stan used on the EPG, someone had even said the name of it in one of the earlier posts:D.

good stuf guys!

thanks!

i did find this nice list:

http://www.lodestonepacific.com/distrib/tape.html

looks like all the defrent tapes one would use for this type of applacarion... :)

Choices choices! lol


also, EnergyFabricator from YT also mentioned using some type of epoxy and let it cure under a vacuum...

that will make all the air bubbles come out and make sure the epoxy gets in between all the wires... i probably try that once i get the new wire in. some time...

and then also tape it.

varnish should work just fine i would think... just alot of layers...

i also will stop by my local motor re builder shop and see what they can give me :) good idea!

Blessings all! ~Russ

Quote from HMS-776 on June 4th, 2012, 05:44 PM

Russ,

The bobbins look great? And your right about the originals, 13 Cavities.

Did you machine those using a CNC, or by hand with a lathe and mill?
How long did it take you per bobbin?
What speed (RPM) did you use?


I machined some a few years back but they took an incredible amount of time, then after I wound the chokes I had 12K ohms each.
One thing I noticed with delrin, if you go too fast or cut too much it heats up and warps. It definately takes patience.

One thing I noticed is you had no insulation on the secondary which you mentioned in the video it arcing to the core.....There is another product for HV transformers which is known as fish paper in the industry. It's thinner than the kapton tape and works well. Do an online search for Fish paper and you'll find a ton of places to buy it at....You can also find it on ebay ocassionly.


Once again, great job Russ!

I cut them by slowest rpm. 80 - 120 rpm.

today i pulsed a flyback hoked on 2 chokes 1000 turns 29awg,and a wfc cap of 10cm long,nothing happend,i took 2 razor blades and make a cap,,on the highest freq little bubles stuked on the neg plate,and barely leting go.The conclusion VOLTAGE DO NOT PERFORM ANYTHING ,I think there was 2kv minimum from the flyback,it arched prety well,if you put the end leads(2kv) on a droplet of water nothing happens,so i tired of this meyer shet.....

You 're sure? about 2KV? IN HV, no simple meter can handle it.

but easy measure by air spark gap. about 3KV/mm.(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L2F8kRvjhTY)

if you need 20 KV then you can test with 6-7mm of spark gap.if it has nothing spark then voltage is lower than that.

i think "if ionize air(weak bound) need 100KV if ionize water(strong bound) need 100MV??????"just thought.  

don't give up,friend.CHEER!!!!

geenee

   

Quote from geenee on July 6th, 2012, 04:04 PM

You 're sure? about 2KV? IN HV, no simple meter can handle it.

but easy measure by air spark gap. about 3KV/mm.(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L2F8kRvjhTY)

if you need 20 KV then you can test with 6-7mm of spark gap.if it has nothing spark then voltage is lower than that.

i think "if ionize air(weak bound) need 100KV if ionize water(strong bound) need 100MV??????"just thought.  

don't give up,friend.CHEER!!!!

geenee

of course i dont measure on a meter(i already distroy one some weeks ago) but by the arch it puts out,1cm arch the size of a 30awg wire,a little lightning;)) ,does not disturb a little droplet,not to talk about a water  cap,this is huge resistance,and like you said,you need lots and lots of more voltage,do see some bubles,and the vic stan did does not deliver,yo need bigger transformer verry big and well constructed,and i doubt how well can we construct it,if we dont have a proper winding/factory machine to put verry thin wire side by side,I wasted a lot of time and nerves winding with my winding machine,wire feed by hand,total mess,if you have total mess you don't have eficient inductance coupling,and the result you built 1:7 ratio transformer you put 12 v and you get 120v,hook the cell and you got nothing.....so...think about it.Yesterday i read again the meyer's patent with the toroid and the specs that it gives,this is bulPoo:it says 200 turns on primary,600 secoundary 100 chokes and you have 5 times more voltage out then you put in.Lets analise the windings 200-600=1:3 ratio right,then it  says it pulses with 25v on the primary =25x3= aprox75v with core losses,then it says ''voltage continues to raise(1000v or more).1000v from what?i think it dreams to much....1st grade math disprove the bulPoo that it says,i think hundreds of people wound a toroid and chokes,and they got nothing...so,i am not saing that is fraud but facts talks not magic theories,tired of magic theories,facts real measurements,please ...comment...