Step by step VIC build
As for the electronics in Stan's original voltage intensifier circuit, I've done a trace of its card here:

(click to enlarge or download the editable SVG image file zipped in the attachments)
I've drawn up the complete "functioning" schematic of the circuit as well:

(click for a printable PDF of the schematic)
The zipped schematic file in the attachments may only be compatible with gschem of the gEDA electronic toolkit, so compatibility varies.

(click to enlarge or download the editable SVG image file zipped in the attachments)
I've drawn up the complete "functioning" schematic of the circuit as well:

(click for a printable PDF of the schematic)
The zipped schematic file in the attachments may only be compatible with gschem of the gEDA electronic toolkit, so compatibility varies.
I have a question, in looking at the circuit R47 220 can't be correct can it? For if a resistor is place across an inductor doesn't that bypass the inductor? As that looks like a resistor hooked up from positive straight to ground. Also R21 and R36 seem to be hooked up oddly. I am not all the great with circuits but I do know electronics okay.
h2opower
As for the 220 ohm resister,they were wired across the primary to restrict the current feeding it.10.5 ohms will make the coil heat up with 12 volts feeding it.Some of the coil pacts had three resistors across the primary,all of them were 220 ohm.The largest one was a 5 watt.
Don
The 220 ohm resistors were like I said wired across the primary coil(parallel).A friend had talked with a coil manufacture,and they told him that 10.5 ohms coil would get hot,then he asked them what would happen if you were to wire a 220 ohm resistor across it,and he stated that it would run cooler.Not my words.
[attachment=496][attachment=497][attachment=498]
Just finished printing a complete set. :) I tried printing with 100% infill, didn't help any. I used support rafting on the bobbins, but it didnt turn out very good. The support didn't go perpendicular to the layer it needs to support.:dodgy: The end caps also have a narrow spot that the printer didn't do well on. It only printed 1 layer of the shell. I have a feeling a smaller nozzle is needed so that the model can be sliced thinner. All that said these are still very usable. Supports added lengthwise to the sketch would be better than the skeinforge supports.
Nate
Just finished printing a complete set. :) I tried printing with 100% infill, didn't help any. I used support rafting on the bobbins, but it didnt turn out very good. The support didn't go perpendicular to the layer it needs to support.:dodgy: The end caps also have a narrow spot that the printer didn't do well on. It only printed 1 layer of the shell. I have a feeling a smaller nozzle is needed so that the model can be sliced thinner. All that said these are still very usable. Supports added lengthwise to the sketch would be better than the skeinforge supports.
Nate
Thanks Nate. I just added the holes, extended the length of the end piece to 3.75" and the feet to 0.33". And yes, minor adjustments to the dimensions may need to be done for assembly.
The latest revision of the sketch is in the attachments including an image how it would look like assembled.
The latest revision of the sketch is in the attachments including an image how it would look like assembled.
Thanks Nate. I just added the holes, extended the length of the end piece to 3.75" and the feet to 0.33". And yes, minor adjustments to the dimensions may need to be done for assembly.
The latest revision of the sketch is in the attachments including an image how it would look like assembled.
The new sketch looks awesome.:cool: These RepRaps should be able to spit these out like hotcakes. :D
Nate
~Russ
RE: Step by step VIC build
« Reply #31, on November 16th, 2011, 11:32 PM »Last edited on November 16th, 2011, 11:36 PM by ~Russ/Rwg42985
As for the electronics in Stan's original voltage intensifier circuit, I've done a trace of its card here:
(click to enlarge or download the editable SVG image file zipped in the attachments)
I've drawn up the complete "functioning" schematic of the circuit as well:
(click for a printable PDF of the schematic)
The zipped schematic file in the attachments may only be compatible with gschem of the gEDA electronic toolkit, so compatibility varies.
A Note to all!
the VIC card is only once piece of the the Circuit!! the GMS unit runs the VIC CARDS!!!
Haxar! some fine work, now... can you do all the cards in the GMS unit??? this would be a big start! open source also! amazing!
let me know if your up for the challenge? we will start a new thread called " Stanly Meyers GMS Unit Reverse engineered" if you wan tot post this VIC card there!!!
Nate!!! ill Take 2 og the VIC bobbins! lol looking nice! we can mill out the slot on the bottom! no worries!
to all! we are moving fast! lets get this out to the public as fast as possible!
God Bless!!! ~Russ
Haxar! some fine work, now... can you do all the cards in the GMS unit??? this would be a big start! open source also! amazing!
let me know if your up for the challenge? we will start a new thread called " Stanly Meyers GMS Unit Reverse engineered" if you wan tot post this VIC card there!!!
Here's a modified overview of the hydrogen fracturing technology chart by Alex Petty keeping the essential parts of the circuit (all of which is in the complete functional VIC schematic I posted):
[attachment=502]
http://www.alexpetty.com/2011/06/23/hydrogen-fracturing-technology-overview-chart/
I don't think we need to do all of the cards as most of their schematics can be found in the international patent WO92/07861. The only cards of the GMS which should as least make the VIC circuit functional are the Variable Pulse Frequency (FREQ GEN.) and the Gated Pulse Frequency (WATER CELL) cards. The other cards on the GMS as controlling and regulating cards shouldn't be important to VIC functionality.Quote from Rwg42985 on November 16th, 2011, 11:32 PM Haxar! some fine work, now... can you do all the cards in the GMS unit??? this would be a big start! open source also! amazing!
let me know if your up for the challenge? we will start a new thread called " Stanly Meyers GMS Unit Reverse engineered" if you wan tot post this VIC card there!!!
Here's a modified overview of the hydrogen fracturing technology chart by Alex Petty keeping the essential parts of the circuit (all of which is in the complete functional VIC schematic I posted):
http://www.alexpetty.com/2011/06/23/hydrogen-fracturing-technology-overview-chart/
also the patent drawings are not accurate as you can see from the GMS cards there was a lot of "field" modifications and every circuit should be Double checked.
non the less, lets make it and do it open! ??
Thanks!
~Russ
[attachment=503][attachment=504][attachment=505][attachment=506][attachment=507][attachment=508]
Here is my latest and greatest print attempts. I added supports to the bobbin cores, which turned out nice.:) I also modified Haxar's latest end cap to beef up the zip-tie areas. Now it fills in all the middles, except the narrowest spot. I made the width 3mm, which seems to be the narrowest you can go with out loosing infill. 1 mm for each shell and 1 mm for the infill.
I also printed with a 2 layer raft to help reduce warping. I want to try to make the parts print out on the bed 90 degrees from what they do now. The rafting just doesn't work as well when it is parrallel to the length of the object. I think I can fix that by making an stl with a complete set parts. Skeinforge seems to put the length along the Y axis. You can see in the endcap picture where i have half of the rafting removed, some of the corners didn't stick because the raft didn't line up.
Haxar the holes turned out nice.:cool: Don't really need to ream much out if you didn't want too.
RepRaps are sweet! :cool:
Nate
Here is my latest and greatest print attempts. I added supports to the bobbin cores, which turned out nice.:) I also modified Haxar's latest end cap to beef up the zip-tie areas. Now it fills in all the middles, except the narrowest spot. I made the width 3mm, which seems to be the narrowest you can go with out loosing infill. 1 mm for each shell and 1 mm for the infill.
I also printed with a 2 layer raft to help reduce warping. I want to try to make the parts print out on the bed 90 degrees from what they do now. The rafting just doesn't work as well when it is parrallel to the length of the object. I think I can fix that by making an stl with a complete set parts. Skeinforge seems to put the length along the Y axis. You can see in the endcap picture where i have half of the rafting removed, some of the corners didn't stick because the raft didn't line up.
Haxar the holes turned out nice.:cool: Don't really need to ream much out if you didn't want too.
RepRaps are sweet! :cool:
Nate
Here is my latest and greatest print attempts. I added supports to the bobbin cores, which turned out nice.:) I also modified Haxar's latest end cap to beef up the zip-tie areas. Now it fills in all the middles, except the narrowest spot. I made the width 3mm, which seems to be the narrowest you can go with out loosing infill. 1 mm for each shell and 1 mm for the infill.
I also printed with a 2 layer raft to help reduce warping. I want to try to make the parts print out on the bed 90 degrees from what they do now. The rafting just doesn't work as well when it is parrallel to the length of the object. I think I can fix that by making an stl with a complete set parts. Skeinforge seems to put the length along the Y axis. You can see in the endcap picture where i have half of the rafting removed, some of the corners didn't stick because the raft didn't line up.
Haxar the holes turned out nice.:cool: Don't really need to ream much out if you didn't want too.
RepRaps are sweet! :cool:
Nate
Nate
Here is my latest and greatest print attempts. I added supports to the bobbin cores, which turned out nice.:) I also modified Haxar's latest end cap to beef up the zip-tie areas. Now it fills in all the middles, except the narrowest spot. I made the width 3mm, which seems to be the narrowest you can go with out loosing infill. 1 mm for each shell and 1 mm for the infill.
I also printed with a 2 layer raft to help reduce warping. I want to try to make the parts print out on the bed 90 degrees from what they do now. The rafting just doesn't work as well when it is parrallel to the length of the object. I think I can fix that by making an stl with a complete set parts. Skeinforge seems to put the length along the Y axis. You can see in the endcap picture where i have half of the rafting removed, some of the corners didn't stick because the raft didn't line up.
Haxar the holes turned out nice.:cool: Don't really need to ream much out if you didn't want too.
RepRaps are sweet! :cool:
Nate
firepinto
RE: Step by step VIC build
« Reply #37, on November 17th, 2011, 03:41 PM »Last edited on November 17th, 2011, 03:42 PM by firepinto
[attachment=510][attachment=511]
I found out that I needed to rotate the objects in Google Sketchup. I tried a print with it rotated and it worked much better with the raft. There was a trade off though, the "wings" on the bobbin didn't start off great. Printing with out the raft would be the ideal way to do it. I added some little indentations to the bobbin walls. They are only 0.5 mm deep, and they strengthen the walls, by "glueing" each side together. My test print only had 2 indentations, and I found adding a 3rd would be better. They shouldn't affect how the coils are wound.
I also extended the supports outside of the bobbin. I was having spots where the nozzle wasn't feeding material at the starts of the lines. That will give it time to get flowing again.
Sketchup and STL files are attatched. :cool:
Nate
I found out that I needed to rotate the objects in Google Sketchup. I tried a print with it rotated and it worked much better with the raft. There was a trade off though, the "wings" on the bobbin didn't start off great. Printing with out the raft would be the ideal way to do it. I added some little indentations to the bobbin walls. They are only 0.5 mm deep, and they strengthen the walls, by "glueing" each side together. My test print only had 2 indentations, and I found adding a 3rd would be better. They shouldn't affect how the coils are wound.
I also extended the supports outside of the bobbin. I was having spots where the nozzle wasn't feeding material at the starts of the lines. That will give it time to get flowing again.
Sketchup and STL files are attatched. :cool:
Nate
Hello everyone!
I´m really enjoying with all the great job you are doing!
I have got a microwave tranformer and i got this ferrrite core from it! it´s composed of a big amount of pieces welded each other,so all you have to do is take the number os pieces you need and cut the middle part that we don´t want to.
I think that will work perfect as a VIC core!![attachment=512][attachment=513][attachment=514][attachment=515]Quote from firepinto on November 17th, 2011, 03:41 PM
I´m really enjoying with all the great job you are doing!
I have got a microwave tranformer and i got this ferrrite core from it! it´s composed of a big amount of pieces welded each other,so all you have to do is take the number os pieces you need and cut the middle part that we don´t want to.
I think that will work perfect as a VIC core!![attachment=512][attachment=513][attachment=514][attachment=515]
I found out that I needed to rotate the objects in Google Sketchup. I tried a print with it rotated and it worked much better with the raft. There was a trade off though, the "wings" on the bobbin didn't start off great. Printing with out the raft would be the ideal way to do it. I added some little indentations to the bobbin walls. They are only 0.5 mm deep, and they strengthen the walls, by "glueing" each side together. My test print only had 2 indentations, and I found adding a 3rd would be better. They shouldn't affect how the coils are wound.
I also extended the supports outside of the bobbin. I was having spots where the nozzle wasn't feeding material at the starts of the lines. That will give it time to get flowing again.
Sketchup and STL files are attatched. :cool:
Nate
Hello everyone!
I´m really enjoying with all the great job you are doing!
I have got a microwave transformer and i got this ferrite core from it! it´s composed of a big amount of pieces welded each other,so all you have to do is take the number os pieces you need and cut the middle part that we don´t want to.
I think that will work perfect as a VIC core!!
others and me have looked for a core to fit the transformer and could not find any. we will need to cut it out of a sheet. i have not yet done the research for the ferrite sheet.
hope we can find some.
~Russ
Hy Russ!
So,what the hell is the staf i have?is it not going to work properly?
what do you mean with permeability?
it Has to be definately ferrite core?
ThanksQuote from ~Russ/Rwg42985 on November 18th, 2011, 03:01 AM
So,what the hell is the staf i have?is it not going to work properly?
what do you mean with permeability?
it Has to be definately ferrite core?
Thanks
fantastic idea, sadly that's not ferrite and some other folks have tested iron. The permeability needs to be higher.Quote from Muxar on November 18th, 2011, 12:47 AM Hello everyone!
I´m really enjoying with all the great job you are doing!
I have got a microwave transformer and i got this ferrite core from it! it´s composed of a big amount of pieces welded each other,so all you have to do is take the number os pieces you need and cut the middle part that we don´t want to.
I think that will work perfect as a VIC core!!
others and me have looked for a core to fit the transformer and could not find any. we will need to cut it out of a sheet. i have not yet done the research for the ferrite sheet.
hope we can find some.
~Russ
I found out that I needed to rotate the objects in Google Sketchup. I tried a print with it rotated and it worked much better with the raft. There was a trade off though, the "wings" on the bobbin didn't start off great. Printing with out the raft would be the ideal way to do it. I added some little indentations to the bobbin walls. They are only 0.5 mm deep, and they strengthen the walls, by "glueing" each side together. My test print only had 2 indentations, and I found adding a 3rd would be better. They shouldn't affect how the coils are wound.
I also extended the supports outside of the bobbin. I was having spots where the nozzle wasn't feeding material at the starts of the lines. That will give it time to get flowing again.
Sketchup and STL files are attatched. :cool:
Nate
I made a short video of the bad parts, I'll try to get it up in a day or so.
Nate
I talked with a source that has had many of these ferrite cores break on him... they are very brittle!@ I am wondering if there is another substance with similar permeability?
http://wapedia.mobi/en/Permeability_%28electromagnetism%29#5
I am not sure how aluminum fits in to this chart. aluminum i think is paramagnetic
http://wapedia.mobi/en/Permeability_%28electromagnetism%29#5
I am not sure how aluminum fits in to this chart. aluminum i think is paramagnetic
I talked with a source that has had many of these ferrite cores break on him... they are very brittle!@ I am wondering if there is another substance with similar permeability?
http://wapedia.mobi/en/Permeability_%28electromagnetism%29#5
I am not sure how aluminum fits in to this chart. aluminum i think is paramagnetic
Nate
Hy Russ!
So,what the hell is the staf i have?is it not going to work properly?
what do you mean with permeability?
it Has to be definately ferrite core?
ThanksQuote from ~Russ/Rwg42985 on November 18th, 2011, 03:01 AM fantastic idea, sadly that's not ferrite and some other folks have tested iron. The permeability needs to be higher.Quote from Muxar on November 18th, 2011, 12:47 AM Hello everyone!
I´m really enjoying with all the great job you are doing!
I have got a microwave transformer and i got this ferrite core from it! it´s composed of a big amount of pieces welded each other,so all you have to do is take the number os pieces you need and cut the middle part that we don´t want to.
I think that will work perfect as a VIC core!!
others and me have looked for a core to fit the transformer and could not find any. we will need to cut it out of a sheet. i have not yet done the research for the ferrite sheet.
hope we can find some.
~Russ
check out this: http://wapedia.mobi/en/Permeability_%28electromagnetism%29
thanks to Kevin for the link.
~Russ
from other sources, i have herd that iron will not work. but its worth a try as you are looking good! all we can do is test it...Quote from Muxar on November 18th, 2011, 08:30 AM Hy Russ!
So,what the hell is the staf i have?is it not going to work properly?
what do you mean with permeability?
it Has to be definately ferrite core?
ThanksQuote from ~Russ/Rwg42985 on November 18th, 2011, 03:01 AM fantastic idea, sadly that's not ferrite and some other folks have tested iron. The permeability needs to be higher.Quote from Muxar on November 18th, 2011, 12:47 AM Hello everyone!
I´m really enjoying with all the great job you are doing!
I have got a microwave transformer and i got this ferrite core from it! it´s composed of a big amount of pieces welded each other,so all you have to do is take the number os pieces you need and cut the middle part that we don´t want to.
I think that will work perfect as a VIC core!!
others and me have looked for a core to fit the transformer and could not find any. we will need to cut it out of a sheet. i have not yet done the research for the ferrite sheet.
hope we can find some.
~Russ
check out this: http://wapedia.mobi/en/Permeability_%28electromagnetism%29
thanks to Kevin for the link.
~Russ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EqoHOAEKc-k&list=UUfZp4JFYt17h0XuPn9uUGOg&feature=plcp
Hey guys, I saw this video a few weeks back. They sell it in my gf's work in a art supply store. Sorry for the french. Check out at 1min 50sec. Could make a mold for bobbins or a ""resin ferrite core""?? Check out my post in the Open Source Health section about orgonite to see them pouring resin in molds.. they spray the molds with grease so it doesn't stick
Correction.. Maybe,
Hard Ferrite Powder
http://ceiec-sz.en.alibaba.com/product/214238669-200401780/CEIEC_Hard_Ferrite_Powder.html
I think this powder normally gets pressed in a form. If we use epoxy we loose permiability.
Someone had mentioned just using 4 strips of ferrite to make the rectangle shape.. Thought that sounded easy., Separate pieces = less permeability??
Hard Ferrite Powder
http://ceiec-sz.en.alibaba.com/product/214238669-200401780/CEIEC_Hard_Ferrite_Powder.html
I think this powder normally gets pressed in a form. If we use epoxy we loose permiability.
Someone had mentioned just using 4 strips of ferrite to make the rectangle shape.. Thought that sounded easy., Separate pieces = less permeability??
Correction.. Maybe,
Hard Ferrite Powder
http://ceiec-sz.en.alibaba.com/product/214238669-200401780/CEIEC_Hard_Ferrite_Powder.html
I think this powder normally gets pressed in a form. If we use epoxy we loose permiability.
Someone had mentioned just using 4 strips of ferrite to make the rectangle shape.. Thought that sounded easy., Separate pieces = less permeability??
Nate