Quote from firepinto on November 12th, 2011, 09:52 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on November 12th, 2011, 07:59 PM

Quote from firepinto on November 12th, 2011, 04:08 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on November 12th, 2011, 05:52 AM

Nate are you going to upload a video on the bobbins,:cool: and the new bottom plate you installed?:D Also, what temp is you hot end set at for pla, I think I am going to have to increase the temp on mine one or two degree's, increase the steps on E to put out a little more plastic filament. I printed a few parts last night, extrusions are a little thin. My home built hotend works great. I ordered abs filament and a few other parts just to have on hand, also to build another hotend for the next machine. Once I get my machine adjusted I'll start on the heated bed and see how that goes, thanks Nate.:D

I hope to soon, but my printer had many issues last night.  I have problems with my filament spools getting stuck and causing all sorts of problems.  I woke up this morning to the extruder stripping out the filement and printing ghost bobbins.:dodgy: I might have problems with my wades now.   I had to walk away from it for a day, ya know how it gets.:P lol I have an idea to make a tool to remove the print structure from the bobbin choke slots.  It will be all printable (I hope) except the steel "chomper" part.  I seem to have irritated some people over at thingiverse.com by posting the bobbins. lol They tried to tag them as a scam and said they should be removed. :dodgy:  We'll see what happens, but I'm irritated enough to make my own 3D parts archive on my own website.  I don't have time for .STL Nazis. :rolleyes: Plus I found a cool free 3D preview script to put on websites.:cool:

Yeah thin extrustions are probably a E calibration.  Also make sure you set the measured filament size in Sfact Quick settings.  Mine seems to always default to 2.8.   I've used the 185 pla default with good luck.  I've tried a few degrees above and below.  Depends on if you want to bridge any gaps.  Stay on the cooler side to make bridges so the extrusion don't sag.  2 degrees makes a huge difference.  Are you going to go with a smaller hot end nozzle on the new machine?

Sorry to hear of the problems you are having Nate. I have been printing and my hotend is also plugging up, I went from 185 to 189 degrees C, it helped but still not the way I would like it to be, I had forgotten about the sfact setting for the filament, I'll set it tomorrow.  I made a temporary support spool to help feed the filament, it seems to be helping as well. What the heck is wrong with those people at thingiverse, ya know, I have hit allot of road blocks from people when it comes to even talking about HHO, let alone posting something about it, that is why this site is so important, most people are lead around by the nose and don't think outside the box at all. On my next nozzle, I'll have to buy another tiny drill bit like a .35mm and make a smaller barrel to use the smaller diameter filament, I think that might be the way to go, won't know though until I try it. So what is the 3d script about, sounds interesting. Hope you can get your machine working well and you have my support what ever that is worth. Thanks Nate.

Hey Jeff, do you know what size your thermistor is?  There is a setting in Sprinter for that, which could throw off your temp range.  Plugging up means the nozzle is too cool, or to close to the bed(been there)  I've noticed mine gets a pattern in the print from where the nozzle is at the lowest temp before the heat kicks back on.  I wonder if there is a setting to reduce the swing of the temps.  If you check 'monitor printer' on pronterface you can see the temps changing.
The 3D script is just something that lets you see a 3D object on a website.  It lets you orbit, zoom, and all that stuff.  Something Thingyverse don't really have a lot of. :P  I'll have a small page done soon to show.  Maybe someday we'll have enough models to have a 3D warehouse here on open-source-energy? :cool:
I don't bother arguing with people that go out of their way to convince you that something can't possibly work - because they say so - and they are smarter.:rolleyes:  Their whole goal is to slow down your progress and turn people away.  If they know it don't work then why do they care if someone is wasting their own time?  Riddle me this!  :P

Nate

I whole heartedly agree Nate, these people must not have anything better to do than to argue and think that they are right. :@  On my thermistor, I did set it up in Sprinter,  :D it's a 100k, I also checked it with my meter. I did find a broken wire in the inline connection where I have a molex connector. :( What clued me in to this is that pronterface was reading zero temp when I had it set at 188 degrees C,  the temp will run away and have a melt down, when connected and can not sense temp, :huh: :angel: if pronterface can't read the temp it can't shut it down, it must be a little secrete no one wants to share. I did some reading on this, [pronterface read me file] it said to use a little thermal fuse also mounted to the hotend in series with the heating element, so if the temp were to run away the fuse would blow preventing a melt down, like a fail safe mechanism, that's one thing I am definitely going to do.  I think I did see where you could change the temp swing  + or - in sprinter from the set point, so I think you can get the temp swing a little tighter. A 3d warehouse would be a very cool :cool: thing. well I'm going to unplug my hotend again and try to print more parts. Thanks Nate.:D

Quote from Jeff Nading on November 13th, 2011, 06:53 AM

Quote from firepinto on November 12th, 2011, 09:52 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on November 12th, 2011, 07:59 PM

Quote from firepinto on November 12th, 2011, 04:08 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on November 12th, 2011, 05:52 AM

Nate are you going to upload a video on the bobbins,:cool: and the new bottom plate you installed?:D Also, what temp is you hot end set at for pla, I think I am going to have to increase the temp on mine one or two degree's, increase the steps on E to put out a little more plastic filament. I printed a few parts last night, extrusions are a little thin. My home built hotend works great. I ordered abs filament and a few other parts just to have on hand, also to build another hotend for the next machine. Once I get my machine adjusted I'll start on the heated bed and see how that goes, thanks Nate.:D

I hope to soon, but my printer had many issues last night.  I have problems with my filament spools getting stuck and causing all sorts of problems.  I woke up this morning to the extruder stripping out the filement and printing ghost bobbins.:dodgy: I might have problems with my wades now.   I had to walk away from it for a day, ya know how it gets.:P lol I have an idea to make a tool to remove the print structure from the bobbin choke slots.  It will be all printable (I hope) except the steel "chomper" part.  I seem to have irritated some people over at thingiverse.com by posting the bobbins. lol They tried to tag them as a scam and said they should be removed. :dodgy:  We'll see what happens, but I'm irritated enough to make my own 3D parts archive on my own website.  I don't have time for .STL Nazis. :rolleyes: Plus I found a cool free 3D preview script to put on websites.:cool:

Yeah thin extrustions are probably a E calibration.  Also make sure you set the measured filament size in Sfact Quick settings.  Mine seems to always default to 2.8.   I've used the 185 pla default with good luck.  I've tried a few degrees above and below.  Depends on if you want to bridge any gaps.  Stay on the cooler side to make bridges so the extrusion don't sag.  2 degrees makes a huge difference.  Are you going to go with a smaller hot end nozzle on the new machine?

Sorry to hear of the problems you are having Nate. I have been printing and my hotend is also plugging up, I went from 185 to 189 degrees C, it helped but still not the way I would like it to be, I had forgotten about the sfact setting for the filament, I'll set it tomorrow.  I made a temporary support spool to help feed the filament, it seems to be helping as well. What the heck is wrong with those people at thingiverse, ya know, I have hit allot of road blocks from people when it comes to even talking about HHO, let alone posting something about it, that is why this site is so important, most people are lead around by the nose and don't think outside the box at all. On my next nozzle, I'll have to buy another tiny drill bit like a .35mm and make a smaller barrel to use the smaller diameter filament, I think that might be the way to go, won't know though until I try it. So what is the 3d script about, sounds interesting. Hope you can get your machine working well and you have my support what ever that is worth. Thanks Nate.

Hey Jeff, do you know what size your thermistor is?  There is a setting in Sprinter for that, which could throw off your temp range.  Plugging up means the nozzle is too cool, or to close to the bed(been there)  I've noticed mine gets a pattern in the print from where the nozzle is at the lowest temp before the heat kicks back on.  I wonder if there is a setting to reduce the swing of the temps.  If you check 'monitor printer' on pronterface you can see the temps changing.
The 3D script is just something that lets you see a 3D object on a website.  It lets you orbit, zoom, and all that stuff.  Something Thingyverse don't really have a lot of. :P  I'll have a small page done soon to show.  Maybe someday we'll have enough models to have a 3D warehouse here on open-source-energy? :cool:
I don't bother arguing with people that go out of their way to convince you that something can't possibly work - because they say so - and they are smarter.:rolleyes:  Their whole goal is to slow down your progress and turn people away.  If they know it don't work then why do they care if someone is wasting their own time?  Riddle me this!  :P

Nate

I whole heartedly agree Nate, these people must not have anything better to do than to argue and think that they are right. :@  On my thermistor, I did set it up in Sprinter,  :D it's a 100k, I also checked it with my meter. I did find a broken wire in the inline connection where I have a molex connector. :( What clued me in to this is that pronterface was reading zero temp when I had it set at 188 degrees C,  I caught it in time, the temp could have ran away and had a melt down, :huh: :angel: if pronterface can't read the temp it can't shut it down, it must be a little secrete no one wants to share. I did some reading on this, [pronterface read me file] it said to use a little thermal fuse also mounted to the hotend in series with the heating element, so if the temp were to run away the fuse would blow preventing a melt down, like a fail safe mechanism, that's one thing I am definitely going to do.  I think I did see where you could change the temp swing  + or - in sprinter from the set point, so I think you can get the temp swing a little tighter. A 3d warehouse would be a very cool :cool: thing. well I'm going to unplug my hotend again and try to print more parts. Thanks Nate.:D

Interesting note on the thermistor, so Sprinter already thinks the temp is Zero and takes no action.  A fuse is probably a good idea, they sure want to pack a lot of stuff in a little package though. lol  I think I'm going to add a big red kill button to mine that kills all 12 volt power.  Pressing pause or stop motors only takes effect after the last command finishes.  If your Z end stop is broke the hot end tries to bury it's self into the bed when trying to find home.:blush:  Only thing you can do is kill power.

Have fun printing Jeff.:cool:

Nate

Quote from firepinto on November 13th, 2011, 07:47 AM

Quote from Jeff Nading on November 13th, 2011, 06:53 AM

Quote from firepinto on November 12th, 2011, 09:52 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on November 12th, 2011, 07:59 PM

Quote from firepinto on November 12th, 2011, 04:08 PM

I hope to soon, but my printer had many issues last night.  I have problems with my filament spools getting stuck and causing all sorts of problems.  I woke up this morning to the extruder stripping out the filement and printing ghost bobbins.:dodgy: I might have problems with my wades now.   I had to walk away from it for a day, ya know how it gets.:P lol I have an idea to make a tool to remove the print structure from the bobbin choke slots.  It will be all printable (I hope) except the steel "chomper" part.  I seem to have irritated some people over at thingiverse.com by posting the bobbins. lol They tried to tag them as a scam and said they should be removed. :dodgy:  We'll see what happens, but I'm irritated enough to make my own 3D parts archive on my own website.  I don't have time for .STL Nazis. :rolleyes: Plus I found a cool free 3D preview script to put on websites.:cool:

Yeah thin extrustions are probably a E calibration.  Also make sure you set the measured filament size in Sfact Quick settings.  Mine seems to always default to 2.8.   I've used the 185 pla default with good luck.  I've tried a few degrees above and below.  Depends on if you want to bridge any gaps.  Stay on the cooler side to make bridges so the extrusion don't sag.  2 degrees makes a huge difference.  Are you going to go with a smaller hot end nozzle on the new machine?

Sorry to hear of the problems you are having Nate. I have been printing and my hotend is also plugging up, I went from 185 to 189 degrees C, it helped but still not the way I would like it to be, I had forgotten about the sfact setting for the filament, I'll set it tomorrow.  I made a temporary support spool to help feed the filament, it seems to be helping as well. What the heck is wrong with those people at thingiverse, ya know, I have hit allot of road blocks from people when it comes to even talking about HHO, let alone posting something about it, that is why this site is so important, most people are lead around by the nose and don't think outside the box at all. On my next nozzle, I'll have to buy another tiny drill bit like a .35mm and make a smaller barrel to use the smaller diameter filament, I think that might be the way to go, won't know though until I try it. So what is the 3d script about, sounds interesting. Hope you can get your machine working well and you have my support what ever that is worth. Thanks Nate.

Hey Jeff, do you know what size your thermistor is?  There is a setting in Sprinter for that, which could throw off your temp range.  Plugging up means the nozzle is too cool, or to close to the bed(been there)  I've noticed mine gets a pattern in the print from where the nozzle is at the lowest temp before the heat kicks back on.  I wonder if there is a setting to reduce the swing of the temps.  If you check 'monitor printer' on pronterface you can see the temps changing.
The 3D script is just something that lets you see a 3D object on a website.  It lets you orbit, zoom, and all that stuff.  Something Thingyverse don't really have a lot of. :P  I'll have a small page done soon to show.  Maybe someday we'll have enough models to have a 3D warehouse here on open-source-energy? :cool:
I don't bother arguing with people that go out of their way to convince you that something can't possibly work - because they say so - and they are smarter.:rolleyes:  Their whole goal is to slow down your progress and turn people away.  If they know it don't work then why do they care if someone is wasting their own time?  Riddle me this!  :P

Nate

I whole heartedly agree Nate, these people must not have anything better to do than to argue and think that they are right. :@  On my thermistor, I did set it up in Sprinter,  :D it's a 100k, I also checked it with my meter. I did find a broken wire in the inline connection where I have a molex connector. :( What clued me in to this is that pronterface was reading zero temp when I had it set at 188 degrees C,  I caught it in time, the temp could have ran away and had a melt down, :huh: :angel: if pronterface can't read the temp it can't shut it down, it must be a little secrete no one wants to share. I did some reading on this, [pronterface read me file] it said to use a little thermal fuse also mounted to the hotend in series with the heating element, so if the temp were to run away the fuse would blow preventing a melt down, like a fail safe mechanism, that's one thing I am definitely going to do.  I think I did see where you could change the temp swing  + or - in sprinter from the set point, so I think you can get the temp swing a little tighter. A 3d warehouse would be a very cool :cool: thing. well I'm going to unplug my hotend again and try to print more parts. Thanks Nate.:D

Interesting note on the thermistor, so Sprinter already thinks the temp is Zero and takes no action.  A fuse is probably a good idea, they sure want to pack a lot of stuff in a little package though. lol  I think I'm going to add a big red kill button to mine that kills all 12 volt power.  Pressing pause or stop motors only takes effect after the last command finishes.  If your Z end stop is broke the hot end tries to bury it's self into the bed when trying to find home.:blush:  Only thing you can do is kill power.

Have fun printing Jeff.:cool:

Nate

Ya Nate, I have a big red kill switch on my CNC plasma cutting machine for just such an emergency.

I think I found the stuff that is going to make printing Multi-Coil VIC spools a walk in the park.:cool::D  It's only fitting that WATER is what will make removing the support structure easier!  Makerbot is selling spools of PVA (Poly-vinyl alcohol) which dissolves in water.  It's rather expensive at 90 bucks for one Kg, but supports are a small amount of mass in VIC spools.  
Only thing needed is a dual extruder head.  Not a clue how to do that!  :P  You can bet my second printer is going to have it though.:cool:  Check out the link below, they have a vid of a printed skull dissolving in water.

http://store.makerbot.com/makerbot-pva-1kg-spool.html

Nate

Quote from firepinto on November 18th, 2011, 08:55 PM

I think I found the stuff that is going to make printing Multi-Coil VIC spools a walk in the park.:cool::D  It's only fitting that WATER is what will make removing the support structure easier!  Makerbot is selling spools of PVA (Poly-vinyl alcohol) which dissolves in water.  It's rather expensive at 90 bucks for one Kg, but supports are a small amount of mass in VIC spools.  
Only thing needed is a dual extruder head.  Not a clue how to do that!  :P  You can bet my second printer is going to have it though.:cool:  Check out the link below, they have a vid of a printed skull dissolving in water.

http://store.makerbot.com/makerbot-pva-1kg-spool.html

Nate

That sounds awesome Nate, I have seen some video's on duel head extruder systems to print multi colored parts, don't see why they would not work for your application as well, :cool:.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EqoHOAEKc-k&list=UUfZp4JFYt17h0XuPn9uUGOg&feature=plcp

Hey guys, I saw this video a few weeks back. They sell it in my gf's work in a art supply store. Sorry for the french. Check out at 1min 50sec. Could make a mold for bobbins or a resin ferrite core?? Check out my post in the Open Source Health section about orgonite to see them pouring resin in molds.. they spray the molds with grease so it doesn't stick

Quote from KevinW-dirtwill on November 19th, 2011, 04:11 PM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EqoHOAEKc-k&list=UUfZp4JFYt17h0XuPn9uUGOg&feature=plcp

Hey guys, I saw this video a few weeks back. They sell it in my gf's work in a art supply store. Sorry for the french. Check out at 1min 50sec. Could make a mold for bobbins or a resin ferrite core?? Check out my post in the Open Source Health section about orgonite to see them pouring resin in molds.. they spray the molds with grease so it doesn't stick

Thanks Kevin, that's cool, it's close to the way I used to build boats and fiberglass aircraft faring's.  
Well Nate, I installed the new hotend barrel and orifice tip, I like it better when extruding the filament doesn't curl like it did but still not there :D , I think I figured out that I need to slow down my E drive :idea: , I think it's trying to push cold filament into the extruder to fast therefore causing it to jamb or plug up, what do you have yours set at?  I found where to adjust temp and other settings like the E drive :cool: . Hope all is well, Jeff. :D

Hey Jeff, check out this printed ekectromagnet on thingiverse:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:9608

They are using some kind of low melt alloy?

Nate

Quote from firepinto on November 23rd, 2011, 05:48 AM

Hey Jeff, check out this printed ekectromagnet on thingiverse:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:9608

They are using some kind of low melt alloy?

Nate

That's interesting Nate, but I think we could improve on that :D. Have you ordered any parts for your newest printer yet, are you going to have duel hotends, same electronics and stepper motors, same type of build with hardware

Quote from Jeff Nading on November 23rd, 2011, 02:42 PM

Quote from firepinto on November 23rd, 2011, 05:48 AM

Hey Jeff, check out this printed ekectromagnet on thingiverse:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:9608

They are using some kind of low melt alloy?

Nate

That's interesting Nate, but I think we could improve on that :D. Have you ordered any parts for your newest printer yet, are you going to have duel hotends, same electronics and stepper motors, same type of build with hardware

I have most of my nuts, bolts and screws.  Also got stainless rods and another RAMPS DIY kit.  I still need to order hot ends, motors, and an arduino mega.  It is going to be a dual extruder, probably standard Greg's hinged extruders.  I've been hand picking each printed piece off thingiverse, I don't think any parts are going to be original prusa.  I'm going to make changes to the X and Z parts to make room for 2 extruders.  Once that is done having 3 or more extruders could easily be a possibility in the future.  I'm hoping to have a frame put together over Christmas vacation.:cool:

Nate

Quote from firepinto on November 23rd, 2011, 04:44 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on November 23rd, 2011, 02:42 PM

Quote from firepinto on November 23rd, 2011, 05:48 AM

Hey Jeff, check out this printed ekectromagnet on thingiverse:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:9608

They are using some kind of low melt alloy?

Nate

That's interesting Nate, but I think we could improve on that :D. Have you ordered any parts for your newest printer yet, are you going to have duel hotends, same electronics and stepper motors, same type of build with hardware

I have most of my nuts, bolts and screws.  Also got stainless rods and another RAMPS DIY kit.  I still need to order hot ends, motors, and an arduino mega.  It is going to be a dual extruder, probably standard Greg's hinged extruders.  I've been hand picking each printed piece off thingiverse, I don't think any parts are going to be original prusa.  I'm going to make changes to the X and Z parts to make room for 2 extruders.  Once that is done having 3 or more extruders could easily be a possibility in the future.  I'm hoping to have a frame put together over Christmas vacation.:cool:

Nate

Cool Nate, you are going to have to put it up on the reprap wiki site and call this new printer the "Atkinson 3D Printer",:P has a nice ring to it,:cool: don't you think?:D Man 200 bucks for hotends, you want to try some home built hotends with nichrome wire , they are called "Jeff's Hotends" :huh:? All you would have to buy would be the thermistor's and kapton tape to hold them on. I can make the other parts, I am going to buy some 5/8" diameter peek to mount the hotend into the Greg's hinged extruder. Let me know what you think or if you want to take a chance on my hotends. :D

Quote from Jeff Nading on November 23rd, 2011, 05:36 PM

Quote from firepinto on November 23rd, 2011, 04:44 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on November 23rd, 2011, 02:42 PM

Quote from firepinto on November 23rd, 2011, 05:48 AM

Hey Jeff, check out this printed ekectromagnet on thingiverse:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:9608

They are using some kind of low melt alloy?

Nate

That's interesting Nate, but I think we could improve on that :D. Have you ordered any parts for your newest printer yet, are you going to have duel hotends, same electronics and stepper motors, same type of build with hardware

I have most of my nuts, bolts and screws.  Also got stainless rods and another RAMPS DIY kit.  I still need to order hot ends, motors, and an arduino mega.  It is going to be a dual extruder, probably standard Greg's hinged extruders.  I've been hand picking each printed piece off thingiverse, I don't think any parts are going to be original prusa.  I'm going to make changes to the X and Z parts to make room for 2 extruders.  Once that is done having 3 or more extruders could easily be a possibility in the future.  I'm hoping to have a frame put together over Christmas vacation.:cool:

Nate

Cool Nate, you are going to have to put it up on the reprap wiki site and call this new printer the "Atkinson 3D Printer",:P has a nice ring to it,:cool: don't you think?:D Man 200 bucks for hotends, you want to try some home built hotends with nichrome wire , they are called "Jeff's Hotends" :huh:? All you would have to buy would be the thermistor's and kapton tape to hold them on. I can make the other parts, I am going to buy some 5/8" diameter peek to mount the hotend into the Greg's hinged extruder. Let me know what you think or if you want to take a chance on my hotends. :D

lol I haven't been able to think up a name for it.  Right now its code named SupaPrusa. :P Really it is going to be a design of a whole list of people in the end.  I'm just configuring some of it differently.:D  A pair of Jeff's Hotends does sound like a good idea!:cool:  I see makergear has .35 and .25mm nozzles.  More resolution is better for what we are trying to produce, but I'm wondering if .25mm is pushing it?  The support material extruder don't need to be so fine for the VIC coil, but never know what the future will need.  Right now I'm leaning more to the .35mm side.  Gotta crawl before you walk?

Nate

Quote from firepinto on November 23rd, 2011, 06:10 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on November 23rd, 2011, 05:36 PM

Quote from firepinto on November 23rd, 2011, 04:44 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on November 23rd, 2011, 02:42 PM

Quote from firepinto on November 23rd, 2011, 05:48 AM

Hey Jeff, check out this printed ekectromagnet on thingiverse:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:9608

They are using some kind of low melt alloy?

Nate

That's interesting Nate, but I think we could improve on that :D. Have you ordered any parts for your newest printer yet, are you going to have duel hotends, same electronics and stepper motors, same type of build with hardware

I have most of my nuts, bolts and screws.  Also got stainless rods and another RAMPS DIY kit.  I still need to order hot ends, motors, and an arduino mega.  It is going to be a dual extruder, probably standard Greg's hinged extruders.  I've been hand picking each printed piece off thingiverse, I don't think any parts are going to be original prusa.  I'm going to make changes to the X and Z parts to make room for 2 extruders.  Once that is done having 3 or more extruders could easily be a possibility in the future.  I'm hoping to have a frame put together over Christmas vacation.:cool:

Nate

Cool Nate, you are going to have to put it up on the reprap wiki site and call this new printer the "Atkinson 3D Printer",:P has a nice ring to it,:cool: don't you think?:D Man 200 bucks for hotends, you want to try some home built hotends with nichrome wire , they are called "Jeff's Hotends" :huh:? All you would have to buy would be the thermistor's and kapton tape to hold them on. I can make the other parts, I am going to buy some 5/8" diameter peek to mount the hotend into the Greg's hinged extruder. Let me know what you think or if you want to take a chance on my hotends. :D

lol I haven't been able to think up a name for it.  Right now its code named SupaPrusa. :P Really it is going to be a design of a whole list of people in the end.  I'm just configuring some of it differently.:D  A pair of Jeff's Hotends does sound like a good idea!:cool:  I see makergear has .35 and .25mm nozzles.  More resolution is better for what we are trying to produce, but I'm wondering if .25mm is pushing it?  The support material extruder don't need to be so fine for the VIC coil, but never know what the future will need.  Right now I'm leaning more to the .35mm side.  Gotta crawl before you walk?

Nate

Hi Nate, built your two hotends today :D [ the barrels, heater cores and orifices] :cool: I'll need to drill out to .35mm, will have to buy some .35mm drill bits and some 5/8" diameter peek rod, which I was going to do anyway, so it will be a week or so before I can finish them. I will wrap the heater cores with nichrome wire tomorrow and seal them with oven cement, same stuff I used on my hotend , it worked great. Then I will wrap the cement with fiber glass tape and of course wire attached to the nichrome wire for connections, both will be 6 ohms. Hope this will be alright and I will send photos of what I have done tomorrow.:D

Quote from Jeff Nading on November 24th, 2011, 08:32 PM

Quote from firepinto on November 23rd, 2011, 06:10 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on November 23rd, 2011, 05:36 PM

Quote from firepinto on November 23rd, 2011, 04:44 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on November 23rd, 2011, 02:42 PM

That's interesting Nate, but I think we could improve on that :D. Have you ordered any parts for your newest printer yet, are you going to have duel hotends, same electronics and stepper motors, same type of build with hardware

I have most of my nuts, bolts and screws.  Also got stainless rods and another RAMPS DIY kit.  I still need to order hot ends, motors, and an arduino mega.  It is going to be a dual extruder, probably standard Greg's hinged extruders.  I've been hand picking each printed piece off thingiverse, I don't think any parts are going to be original prusa.  I'm going to make changes to the X and Z parts to make room for 2 extruders.  Once that is done having 3 or more extruders could easily be a possibility in the future.  I'm hoping to have a frame put together over Christmas vacation.:cool:

Nate

Cool Nate, you are going to have to put it up on the reprap wiki site and call this new printer the "Atkinson 3D Printer",:P has a nice ring to it,:cool: don't you think?:D Man 200 bucks for hotends, you want to try some home built hotends with nichrome wire , they are called "Jeff's Hotends" :huh:? All you would have to buy would be the thermistor's and kapton tape to hold them on. I can make the other parts, I am going to buy some 5/8" diameter peek to mount the hotend into the Greg's hinged extruder. Let me know what you think or if you want to take a chance on my hotends. :D

lol I haven't been able to think up a name for it.  Right now its code named SupaPrusa. :P Really it is going to be a design of a whole list of people in the end.  I'm just configuring some of it differently.:D  A pair of Jeff's Hotends does sound like a good idea!:cool:  I see makergear has .35 and .25mm nozzles.  More resolution is better for what we are trying to produce, but I'm wondering if .25mm is pushing it?  The support material extruder don't need to be so fine for the VIC coil, but never know what the future will need.  Right now I'm leaning more to the .35mm side.  Gotta crawl before you walk?

Nate

Hi Nate, built your two hotends today :D [ the barrels, heater cores and orifices] :cool: I'll need to drill out to .35mm, will have to buy some .35mm drill bits and some 5/8" diameter peek rod, which I was going to do anyway, so it will be a week or so before I can finish them. I will wrap the heater cores with nichrome wire tomorrow and seal them with oven cement, same stuff I used on my hotend , it worked great. Then I will wrap the cement with fiber glass tape and of course wire attached to the nichrome wire for connections, both will be 6 ohms. Hope this will be alright and I will send photos of what I have done tomorrow.:D

Sounds cool Jeff.:D  No need to rush on them, I'm going to be out of town for a couple weeks(possibly longer) anyway.  Cant wait to see the pics.:cool:

Nate

Here are the photo's I promised Nate, I'll crimp the lead wires on then add another coat of oven cement.:D

Quote from Jeff Nading on November 25th, 2011, 01:39 PM

Here are the photo's I promised Nate, I'll crimp the lead wires on then add another coat of oven cement.:D

Those look great Jeff.:D  I think the smaller design of the tip will help too.  Mine is a "fat head" design.  With two extruders, one of them is going to be dragging across the top of the printed object when not in use.  The way those look machined they won't hit so much on the high spots.:cool:  I haven't had much time to research controlling 2 extruders, but the only software, that i know of, that could do it is the RepRap Host program.  I also need to learn how to design parts in sketchup that can represent different materials.  I haven't even been able to figure out how to make colors in sketchup! lol So much to learn.  The end of the year always gets so busy. lol

Nate

So I've been trying to get a Greg's Hinged extruder body printed.:s  They only have an OpenScad file posted, which you need to select what nozzle mount you want, then compile it, then export to stl.  I have OpenScad installed on my Ubuntu VM, but having troubles compiling.  It ignores the hole shape and size variables.  I'm also not sure what mount option to use lol.  The groovemount looks similar to what my original wades has, and the peek_reprapsource_mount is similar but deeper.  

Edit:  Confirmed that a Makergear hot end is a groovemount.

Nate

Quote from firepinto on November 25th, 2011, 07:02 PM

So I've been trying to get a Greg's Hinged extruder body printed.:s  They only have an OpenScad file posted, which you need to select what nozzle mount you want, then compile it, then export to stl.  I have OpenScad installed on my Ubuntu VM, but having troubles compiling.  It ignores the hole shape and size variables.  I'm also not sure what mount option to use lol.  The groovemount looks similar to what my original wades has, and the peek_reprapsource_mount is similar but deeper.  

Edit:  Confirmed that a Makergear hot end is a groovemount.

Nate

Nate the two holes on each side of the Wades extruder I used, I pushed the peek in the 5/8" hole at the bottom of the extruder body and drilled through both holes horizontally to the other side, made a U shaped brass pin then slid it in the holes to hold the peek in place, if the hinged extruder 5/8" hole is not deep enough to do that  you will more than likely have to use the vertical bolt mounting method with a horizontal plate or thin strap between the peek rod and the heating element, with the barrel going through the strap and the vertical bolts also going through the strap, up through the hinged extruder, the strap would have to be thin say 18 gauge. I can leave enough room to use a strap if need be.:D Let me know what you want to do, thanks.

Quote from Jeff Nading on November 25th, 2011, 08:09 PM

Quote from firepinto on November 25th, 2011, 07:02 PM

So I've been trying to get a Greg's Hinged extruder body printed.:s  They only have an OpenScad file posted, which you need to select what nozzle mount you want, then compile it, then export to stl.  I have OpenScad installed on my Ubuntu VM, but having troubles compiling.  It ignores the hole shape and size variables.  I'm also not sure what mount option to use lol.  The groovemount looks similar to what my original wades has, and the peek_reprapsource_mount is similar but deeper.  

Edit:  Confirmed that a Makergear hot end is a groovemount.

Nate

Nate the two holes on each side of the Wades extruder I used, I pushed the peek in the 5/8" hole at the bottom of the extruder body and drilled through both holes horizontally to the other side, made a U shaped brass pin then slid it in the holes to hold the peek in place, if the hinged extruder 5/8" hole is not deep enough to do that  you will more than likely have to use the vertical bolt mounting method with a horizontal plate or thin strap between the peek rod and the heating element, with the barrel going through the strap and the vertical bolts also going through the strap, up through the hinged extruder, the strap would have to be thin say 18 gauge. I can leave enough room to use a strap if need be.:D Let me know what you want to do, thanks.

OK I get it now,  my wades has those holes too.  I could of used those but I ordered the wood groovemount option, that came with a wooden washer to space the groove out.  So I guess the style of mount you used is called "peek_reprapsource_mount".  RepRap info is so scattered! :dodgy:  
I think I'll do it the way that you did.  I want to keep the weight down as much as I can, so leaving out the wood is a good idea.  The wood does act as a little insulation to keep the extruder from melting though.
Now I just gotta learn OpenScad and figure out why its not working right.  All for one part! :dodgy:  Oh well, it does look like a powerful piece of software.  I just cant imagine drawing by writing code.:P

Nate

Quote from firepinto on November 25th, 2011, 09:04 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on November 25th, 2011, 08:09 PM

Quote from firepinto on November 25th, 2011, 07:02 PM

So I've been trying to get a Greg's Hinged extruder body printed.:s  They only have an OpenScad file posted, which you need to select what nozzle mount you want, then compile it, then export to stl.  I have OpenScad installed on my Ubuntu VM, but having troubles compiling.  It ignores the hole shape and size variables.  I'm also not sure what mount option to use lol.  The groovemount looks similar to what my original wades has, and the peek_reprapsource_mount is similar but deeper.  

Edit:  Confirmed that a Makergear hot end is a groovemount.

Nate

Nate the two holes on each side of the Wades extruder I used, I pushed the peek in the 5/8" hole at the bottom of the extruder body and drilled through both holes horizontally to the other side, made a U shaped brass pin then slid it in the holes to hold the peek in place, if the hinged extruder 5/8" hole is not deep enough to do that  you will more than likely have to use the vertical bolt mounting method with a horizontal plate or thin strap between the peek rod and the heating element, with the barrel going through the strap and the vertical bolts also going through the strap, up through the hinged extruder, the strap would have to be thin say 18 gauge. I can leave enough room to use a strap if need be.:D Let me know what you want to do, thanks.

OK I get it now,  my wades has those holes too.  I could of used those but I ordered the wood groovemount option, that came with a wooden washer to space the groove out.  So I guess the style of mount you used is called "peek_reprapsource_mount".  RepRap info is so scattered! :dodgy:  
I think I'll do it the way that you did.  I want to keep the weight down as much as I can, so leaving out the wood is a good idea.  The wood does act as a little insulation to keep the extruder from melting though.
Now I just gotta learn OpenScad and figure out why its not working right.  All for one part! :dodgy:  Oh well, it does look like a powerful piece of software.  I just cant imagine drawing by writing code.:P

Nate

So Nate, is the 5/8" hole in the hinged extruder deep enough to install the peek the way I did? Or do you need me to cut a groove in the peek so you can use the parts you ordered, and if so I will need a depth measurement?

Quote from Jeff Nading on November 26th, 2011, 06:01 AM

Quote from firepinto on November 25th, 2011, 09:04 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on November 25th, 2011, 08:09 PM

Quote from firepinto on November 25th, 2011, 07:02 PM

So I've been trying to get a Greg's Hinged extruder body printed.:s  They only have an OpenScad file posted, which you need to select what nozzle mount you want, then compile it, then export to stl.  I have OpenScad installed on my Ubuntu VM, but having troubles compiling.  It ignores the hole shape and size variables.  I'm also not sure what mount option to use lol.  The groovemount looks similar to what my original wades has, and the peek_reprapsource_mount is similar but deeper.  

Edit:  Confirmed that a Makergear hot end is a groovemount.

Nate

Nate the two holes on each side of the Wades extruder I used, I pushed the peek in the 5/8" hole at the bottom of the extruder body and drilled through both holes horizontally to the other side, made a U shaped brass pin then slid it in the holes to hold the peek in place, if the hinged extruder 5/8" hole is not deep enough to do that  you will more than likely have to use the vertical bolt mounting method with a horizontal plate or thin strap between the peek rod and the heating element, with the barrel going through the strap and the vertical bolts also going through the strap, up through the hinged extruder, the strap would have to be thin say 18 gauge. I can leave enough room to use a strap if need be.:D Let me know what you want to do, thanks.

OK I get it now,  my wades has those holes too.  I could of used those but I ordered the wood groovemount option, that came with a wooden washer to space the groove out.  So I guess the style of mount you used is called "peek_reprapsource_mount".  RepRap info is so scattered! :dodgy:  
I think I'll do it the way that you did.  I want to keep the weight down as much as I can, so leaving out the wood is a good idea.  The wood does act as a little insulation to keep the extruder from melting though.
Now I just gotta learn OpenScad and figure out why its not working right.  All for one part! :dodgy:  Oh well, it does look like a powerful piece of software.  I just cant imagine drawing by writing code.:P

Nate

So Nate, is the 5/8" hole in the hinged extruder deep enough to install the peek the way I did? Or do you need me to cut a groove in the peek so you can use the parts you ordered, and if so I will need a depth measurement?

I didn't order any nozzle mount parts for this printer, I was just comparing my first printer.   The peek hole should be deep enough, Ill just pick that mounting style option in the openscad file.  I don't know how deep that hole is, but it's way deeper than the one on my first printer, and it has the two small holes through the side like you described.  I'll try to get an stl made so I can figure out the depth this weekend.

Nate

Quote from firepinto on November 26th, 2011, 09:09 AM

Quote from Jeff Nading on November 26th, 2011, 06:01 AM

Quote from firepinto on November 25th, 2011, 09:04 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on November 25th, 2011, 08:09 PM

Quote from firepinto on November 25th, 2011, 07:02 PM

So I've been trying to get a Greg's Hinged extruder body printed.:s  They only have an OpenScad file posted, which you need to select what nozzle mount you want, then compile it, then export to stl.  I have OpenScad installed on my Ubuntu VM, but having troubles compiling.  It ignores the hole shape and size variables.  I'm also not sure what mount option to use lol.  The groovemount looks similar to what my original wades has, and the peek_reprapsource_mount is similar but deeper.  

Edit:  Confirmed that a Makergear hot end is a groovemount.

Nate

Nate the two holes on each side of the Wades extruder I used, I pushed the peek in the 5/8" hole at the bottom of the extruder body and drilled through both holes horizontally to the other side, made a U shaped brass pin then slid it in the holes to hold the peek in place, if the hinged extruder 5/8" hole is not deep enough to do that  you will more than likely have to use the vertical bolt mounting method with a horizontal plate or thin strap between the peek rod and the heating element, with the barrel going through the strap and the vertical bolts also going through the strap, up through the hinged extruder, the strap would have to be thin say 18 gauge. I can leave enough room to use a strap if need be.:D Let me know what you want to do, thanks.

OK I get it now,  my wades has those holes too.  I could of used those but I ordered the wood groovemount option, that came with a wooden washer to space the groove out.  So I guess the style of mount you used is called "peek_reprapsource_mount".  RepRap info is so scattered! :dodgy:  
I think I'll do it the way that you did.  I want to keep the weight down as much as I can, so leaving out the wood is a good idea.  The wood does act as a little insulation to keep the extruder from melting though.
Now I just gotta learn OpenScad and figure out why its not working right.  All for one part! :dodgy:  Oh well, it does look like a powerful piece of software.  I just cant imagine drawing by writing code.:P

Nate

So Nate, is the 5/8" hole in the hinged extruder deep enough to install the peek the way I did? Or do you need me to cut a groove in the peek so you can use the parts you ordered, and if so I will need a depth measurement?

I didn't order any nozzle mount parts for this printer, I was just comparing my first printer.   The peek hole should be deep enough, Ill just pick that mounting style option in the openscad file.  I don't know how deep that hole is, but it's way deeper than the one on my first printer, and it has the two small holes through the side like you described.  I'll try to get an stl made so I can figure out the depth this weekend.

Nate

Sound s good Nate, :D if you go with the horizontal hole option I won't need the depth measurement. I've got the heater elements built, wires attached and oven cement applied, fiber glass  and kapton tape over that. All I need to do now is drill the extruder tips .35mm, buy and machine the peek rods to finish the extruders.:D:P
P.S. can you send me a copy of the stl file you make?:blush:Say Nate, I found connectors that will work on the 3d printers, male and female crimps, plastic housings and the crimping tool, just thought I would let you know, they are hard to find.:cool: http://www.hansenhobbies.com/products/connectors/miscconnectors/

Ok Nate, just did an amp check on the extruders, pulls 1.84 amps @ 7 ohms, per extruder, so you should be good to go with two extruders connected in parallel. :D

Quote from Jeff Nading on November 26th, 2011, 12:13 PM

Ok Nate, just did an amp check on the extruders, pulls 1.84 amps @ 7 ohms, per extruder, so you should be good to go with two extruders connected in parallel. :D

That sounds great Jeff. :D  Thanks for the connector site.  That would of been one of my next questions.:P  I can send the extruder STL when I get it figured out.:cool:

Nate

[attachment=533][attachment=532][attachment=531]

Got my extruders printed.:)  I attatched the STL that I used.  It is set up for 3mm filament, and 0.40 layer height.  The body is black and the gears are natural clear.  

Some of my problems with openscad where because I didn't have the files in the prusa repository source folder.  Apparently it uses settings from there.  

The way it's looking is the two nozzles are going to have a 3 inch offset from each other.  That's with them installed with the hinge forward.  I could rotate one and get a 2.5 inch offset, but I don't see any gain in that.  

Nate