Alright:D, I 'm glad you made it home and received the package, the extra goodies, yes the electronics is a thermostat and a timer, not sure you could use it, I had five of them, so I sent one along with the plate thinking you might be able to use it for controlling it's temperature, if not that's alright to. I have not done enough research to see if the Arduino might be able to control the plates temp. The little tubes are lock tight blue, which means, you can use it as a thread locker then months later still be able to unscrew the nut or bolt, it just assist in holding them in place from vibration. Well I hope all will work for you Nate , I might have a schematic somewhere for the temp controller, I'll have to look for it and hope you get the time to work on your printer.:D

Quote from firepinto on October 7th, 2011, 05:28 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on October 5th, 2011, 04:06 PM

Well, here is the nichrome wire wound around the hot end I made, this will screw on to the orifice barrel, now I need to insulate it with an oven paste I have. The nichrome wire is # 31, 9 1/8" long to get the 6 ohms that it calls for, here,s a link that shows how to build one and some photos of the one I made. :D  http://www.makergear.com/pages/ceramic-heater-core-instructions

Hey Jeff,
Just got home and found a package. :D  Thanks so much!  The plate looks awesome.  If they call metal parts for RepRap's vitamins, this has got to be steroids! lol I will probably just sand the surface down, but I bet it can be used just like it is. :)  I think this will go on my second Prusa. :cool:
Also thanks for the extra goodies! :D  Have any idea if that is a motor controller or a thermostat?  
I just got done checking out my lower bed repair job.  Looks like the cracks spread a little bit, but still seems strong.

Nate

photos of the lower bed! ???

keep up the good work guys!

~Russ

Quote from Rwg42985 on October 8th, 2011, 04:58 AM

Quote from firepinto on October 7th, 2011, 05:28 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on October 5th, 2011, 04:06 PM

Well, here is the nichrome wire wound around the hot end I made, this will screw on to the orifice barrel, now I need to insulate it with an oven paste I have. The nichrome wire is # 31, 9 1/8" long to get the 6 ohms that it calls for, here,s a link that shows how to build one and some photos of the one I made. :D  http://www.makergear.com/pages/ceramic-heater-core-instructions

Hey Jeff,
Just got home and found a package. :D  Thanks so much!  The plate looks awesome.  If they call metal parts for RepRap's vitamins, this has got to be steroids! lol I will probably just sand the surface down, but I bet it can be used just like it is. :)  I think this will go on my second Prusa. :cool:
Also thanks for the extra goodies! :D  Have any idea if that is a motor controller or a thermostat?  
I just got done checking out my lower bed repair job.  Looks like the cracks spread a little bit, but still seems strong.

Nate

photos of the lower bed! ???

keep up the good work guys!

~Russ

lol I was going to make a video today, with the new bed in it.
  I finished all of my wiring, that is if it is right.  I tried powering the thing up today.  So far frustration is the only thing it has produced! lol I seem to have a problem with my opto end stops.  If they are plugged in the Arduino shuts down power with its USB over current protection.  I can't find my little power plug things to power up the Arduino externally. :dodgy:
  The good news, no smoke yet.  My ATX (might be AT) power supply is only putting out 10 volts.  Going to need to find a different one.  No movement on anything, but my X axis motor locks down and gets hot fast, as does the driver heat sink.  :-/  I hope I have the optos wired right, Im using a Sharp 5 pin model.  Something tells me i should of bought the board kits. :s  
I tried RepRap Host software, with Sprinter firmware.  Not sure if that combo works, so far its not. lol  Tried downloading pronterface and sfact, and I cant find any executeble in them! lol Today was kind of a let down in the progress dept.

I thought I seen a program that just tested motors, might look for that tomorrow.

EDIT
Did a quick search and found these opto boards:
http://www.reprapsource.com/oe-r1
I can see my problem is probably the lack of resistors.  Maybe I can cobble something like those tomorrow. :D

Nate

Quote

Today was kind of a let down in the progress dept.

lol... its a sad time... but i like that quote!

my progress Dept is on Strike! lol

~Russ

Quote from Rwg42985 on October 9th, 2011, 06:57 AM

Quote

Today was kind of a let down in the progress dept.

lol... its a sad time... but i like that quote!

my progress Dept is on Strike! lol

~Russ

The progress dept is improving. :P

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=86rc-NpyaK0

Nate

Great news for the Progress Department! lol
I have the motors operating finally!  I ended up using Sprinter firmware on the arduino, Pronterface for the host.  It was quite a challenge.  I'll make a new video of the experience tomorrow. :D

Nate

I fell out of bed early this morning and messed with the RepRap more.  It's alive!  I can tell I will need to do a lot of tweaking to the lower bed bushings.  I'm getting close.:cool:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OnoTSYrS5mg
Nate

Ha Nate, that is soooooooo cool, I like it, I like it allot. Just finished soldering the shield and pololu's, now I need to figure out all the pin settings for the Arduino and shield, then all the wiring. I'm going to make pc boards for the opto end stops I have. What resolution did you set your steppers to, also can you take some close up shots of your shield and post them, just want to make sure I have all parts in the correct location, I think I do, but have some pins left over, also what size power supply did you use? Thanks.

Quote from Jeff Nading on October 12th, 2011, 05:01 PM

Ha Nate, that is soooooooo cool, I like it, I like it allot. Just finished soldering the shield and pololu's, now I need to figure out all the pin settings for the Arduino and shield, then all the wiring. I'm going to make pc boards for the opto end stops I have. What resolution did you set your steppers to, also can you take some close up shots of your shield and post them, just want to make sure I have all parts in the correct location, I think I do, but have some pins left over, also what size power supply did you use? Thanks.

Hey Jeff,
It was even cooler tonight. :D  I printed 11 of those nickel calibration thingy's and have it really close now.  I skipped right to printing new gears for the Greg Frost Wades extruder.  They aren't perfect but looks like they will clean up to be usable replacements.  
The pin settings your talking about are the ones under the pololus?  I have all 3 jumpered, I think that is the highest resolution.  I wanted to make a video explaining the troubles I went through, but I got so involved with printing! lol  Tomorrow I will for sure.  I had pins left over too, but I did miss the + pins on the opto headers.  It takes another row of pins since optos are a 3 pin connector.  I had to do a lot of Sprinter settings relating to optos.  I'll show that in the video.  I have a bunch of printing video to run through movie maker, not sure when I can do it.  Maybe I can do it at work on break tomorrow. :D  I'll charge up my 10 M pixel camera tomorrow and shoot some pics. :)

Happy day in the Progress Department!

Forgot to mention my power supply only puts out 9 amps for the 12 volt lines.  Plus it's only running at about 10 volts.  I need to find a replacement for that.

Nate

Here is one of the videos of the RepRap printing:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_IRipwYZOw

I couldn't get the earlier videos to process on my laptop.  Will get those out later.

Nate

Quote from firepinto on October 13th, 2011, 10:12 AM

Here is one of the videos of the RepRap printing:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_IRipwYZOw

I couldn't get the earlier videos to process on my laptop.  Will get those out later.

Nate

That is totally awesome Nate, I can't wait to see my printer running now.

Jeff,
Here are a few pictures of my RAMPS board.  I've been working on calibrating the RepRap all day, its time for a break!  I think PLA fumes got to my head.  It is really tricky to figure out weather a firmware change is needed in Sprinter, or just a setting in SFact before you run an .stl to G code.  It gets frustrating. lol  I'm really close, I just need a break to build up more patients.  I have way too much video on a lot of failures. :-/  

I've been picking out the pieces I want to print for my next printer over on thingiverse.com.  Lots of cool stuff there.  Plus I think I'm going to modify how the threaded rods go together so that the structure is wider and has more room inside.  I find getting the parts off the bed is a little cumbersome with the angled rods in the way.

Nate

[attachment=355][attachment=356][attachment=357][attachment=358]

Quote from firepinto on October 15th, 2011, 04:04 PM

Jeff,
Here are a few pictures of my RAMPS board.  I've been working on calibrating the RepRap all day, its time for a break!  I think PLA fumes got to my head.  It is really tricky to figure out weather a firmware change is needed in Sprinter, or just a setting in SFact before you run an .stl to G code.  It gets frustrating. lol  I'm really close, I just need a break to build up more patients.  I have way too much video on a lot of failures. :-/  

I've been picking out the pieces I want to print for my next printer over on thingiverse.com.  Lots of cool stuff there.  Plus I think I'm going to modify how the threaded rods go together so that the structure is wider and has more room inside.  I find getting the parts off the bed is a little cumbersome with the angled rods in the way.

Nate

Thanks Nate for the photos, I am missing one header for the end stops, it will be easy to solder on though, got my sd ramp, I will be installing that to. Built one end stop - tested with my meter, when I block the signal I get voltage on the output wire, the led is off, when I release the signal, the led comes on and the voltage is off, the led works just opposite of yours, it must be getting a ground through the opto, mine have 5 pins like yours, but does not have an inverter. http://www.omron.com/ecb/products/pdf/en-ee_sx4235a_p2.pdf   Does the voltage on your end stops go high or low when you block the signal, if it goes high I can use these until I can get the correct ones for the printer. Also did you calculate mathematically the steps in movements, or is the software helping in movements? Thanks.

Quote from Jeff Nading on October 15th, 2011, 07:46 PM

Quote from firepinto on October 15th, 2011, 04:04 PM

Jeff,
Here are a few pictures of my RAMPS board.  I've been working on calibrating the RepRap all day, its time for a break!  I think PLA fumes got to my head.  It is really tricky to figure out weather a firmware change is needed in Sprinter, or just a setting in SFact before you run an .stl to G code.  It gets frustrating. lol  I'm really close, I just need a break to build up more patients.  I have way too much video on a lot of failures. :-/  

I've been picking out the pieces I want to print for my next printer over on thingiverse.com.  Lots of cool stuff there.  Plus I think I'm going to modify how the threaded rods go together so that the structure is wider and has more room inside.  I find getting the parts off the bed is a little cumbersome with the angled rods in the way.

Nate

Thanks Nate for the photos, I am missing one header for the end stops, it will be easy to solder on though, got my sd ramp, I will be installing that to. Built one end stop - tested with my meter, when I block the signal I get voltage on the output wire, the led is off, when I release the signal, the led comes on and the voltage is off, the led works just opposite of yours, it must be getting a ground through the opto, mine have 5 pins like yours, but does not have an inverter. http://www.omron.com/ecb/products/pdf/en-ee_sx4235a_p2.pdf   Does the voltage on your end stops go high or low when you block the signal, if it goes high I can use these until I can get the correct ones for the printer. Also did you calculate mathematically the steps in movements, or is the software helping in movements? Thanks.

If your optos work opposite of mine that is really a good thing.  I had to reverse the software to make mine work.  i havent put a meter on them to see if they go high or low.  The only setting you will have to change in software now is disabling the pull down resistors that are ment for microswitch end stops. The steps are really a guestimate for me.. print.. measure.. adjust .. print.. measure ... adjust..  I'm having the hardest time with the extruder steps.  Just tried to print a RAMPS box, that basicly crumbled.  The box dont work with RAMPS 1.4 anyway. :(  

Nate

Hi Nate, thanks for the info, just thinking ahead, where did you download sprinter, ponterface and sfacts? Are you using win xp, win 7, or ubuntu os? I think I figured out the led on my end stops, if I were to connect the anode of the led [positive side] to the output of the opto switch instead of vcc and the cathode to ground instead of the output, deviating from the schematic, the led should come on when the switch goes high or the ir signal is blocked, then I think they will work the same as yours do. Also can you test or see if there is an output voltage of your opto stops as the ir signal is blocked, when you have time :D and let me know if they do in fact go high or low and what the actual voltage is, thanks. :D

Quote from Jeff Nading on October 16th, 2011, 08:41 AM

Hi Nate, thanks for the info, just thinking ahead, where did you download sprinter, ponterface and sfacts? Are you using win xp, win 7, or ubuntu os? I think I figured out the led on my end stops, if I were to connect the anode of the led [positive side] to the output of the opto switch instead of vcc and the cathode to ground instead of the output, deviating from the schematic, the led should come on when the switch goes high or the ir signal is blocked, then I think they will work the same as yours do. Also can you test or see if there is an output voltage of your opto stops as the ir signal is blocked, when you have time :D and let me know if they do in fact go high or low and what the actual voltage is, thanks. :D

I'm using Windows XP SP3 on my old PIII intel which hates me when I run STL's to G code.  I might want to build a new machine for running printers.  I was thinking of a dual core micro atx in one of those small Shuttle cases, combined with a powered USB hub. :) I tried Mandrake  linux years ago, I found installing programs a pain.  I've heard Ubuntu is easier?  I'll try to get to metering my optos later in the week.  :-)

To make Pronterface work you need these programs installed first:
    python
    pyserial
    pyreadline
    wxPython
There are links on this Wiki page:
http://reprap.org/wiki/Printrun
Pronterface download:
https://github.com/kliment/Printrun

Sprinter Download:
https://github.com/kliment/Sprinter

I already had the Arduino software installed from the PulseFire project.  But you will need that also to upload the Sprinter firmware to the board.
http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software

Nate

Wish I seen this video earlier! lol It makes so much sense and is so simple.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wAL9d7FgInk

I cant wait for the E axis video.:P

Nate

Catching up on video uploads:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4JBqaswYtYhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G6Cy9VlSN-Uhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L9OdfcndWGk

Hi Nate, here is the schematic for the temp control that I sent you, should make it easy to wire up :D , I will send a photo of the controls on the front of the panel later - to help understand what all the led's and such are for. Were you able to check the output voltage on the opto end stops? No pressure, I know your busy, I have my Prusa just about  completely wired, I'll post a video later today if I have time. Oh, meant to ask, are there any pins to be jumped no the Arduino board? There are pins with no jumpers on them, didn't know if they needed to be jumped or not, thanks.:D

Quote from Jeff Nading on October 23rd, 2011, 07:00 AM

Hi Nate, here is the schematic for the temp control that I sent you, should make it easy to wire up :D , I will send a photo of the controls on the front of the panel later - to help understand what all the led's and such are for. Were you able to check the output voltage on the opto end stops? No pressure, I know your busy, I have my Prusa just about  completely wired, I'll post a video later today if I have time. Oh, meant to ask, are there any pins to be jumped no the Arduino board? There are pins with no jumpers on them, didn't know if they needed to be jumped or not, thanks.:D

Hey Jeff,
Thanks for the pdf. :cool:  I really want to build my own filament extruder with it.  I measured the optos, and between the + and S the opto goes High when the flag is in.  Between the - and S the opto goes Low when the flag is in.  The only pins I have jumpered are the sets of 3 under each stepper driver board.  I didn't solder in any other pins that are there so that you can still use left over pins on the Arduino.  The Z stepper motor header has places for 2 motors to plug in if you don't want to splice them.  Can't wait to see your video!

Nate

Quote from firepinto on October 23rd, 2011, 09:44 AM

Quote from Jeff Nading on October 23rd, 2011, 07:00 AM

Hi Nate, here is the schematic for the temp control that I sent you, should make it easy to wire up :D , I will send a photo of the controls on the front of the panel later - to help understand what all the led's and such are for. Were you able to check the output voltage on the opto end stops? No pressure, I know your busy, I have my Prusa just about  completely wired, I'll post a video later today if I have time. Oh, meant to ask, are there any pins to be jumped no the Arduino board? There are pins with no jumpers on them, didn't know if they needed to be jumped or not, thanks.:D

Hey Jeff,
Thanks for the pdf. :cool:  I really want to build my own filament extruder with it.  I measured the optos, and between the + and S the opto goes High when the flag is in.  Between the - and S the opto goes Low when the flag is in.  The only pins I have jumpered are the sets of 3 under each stepper driver board.  I didn't solder in any other pins that are there so that you can still use left over pins on the Arduino.  The Z stepper motor header has places for 2 motors to plug in if you don't want to splice them.  Can't wait to see your video!

Nate

Hi Nate, I understand how the opto's work :D, I just need to know what the voltage is between  S and ground when the opto goes high, flag blocking ir signal, led on, you can read the output voltage with your meter. I have a different opto than the ones you have and have built a circuit around them to make mine work, will have to add a npn transistor to make the led turn on when the opto goes high, so if the voltage is to high I will also have to reduce it. Also the pins on the Arduino Mega 2560 board, not the Ramps shield board, there are pins with no jumpers, did you jump any of these?:D , Well I have all the wiring done except for the power supply, need a plug for the Arduino Mega 2560 board, ;) thanks.

Quote from Jeff Nading on October 23rd, 2011, 10:21 AM

Quote from firepinto on October 23rd, 2011, 09:44 AM

Quote from Jeff Nading on October 23rd, 2011, 07:00 AM

Hi Nate, here is the schematic for the temp control that I sent you, should make it easy to wire up :D , I will send a photo of the controls on the front of the panel later - to help understand what all the led's and such are for. Were you able to check the output voltage on the opto end stops? No pressure, I know your busy, I have my Prusa just about  completely wired, I'll post a video later today if I have time. Oh, meant to ask, are there any pins to be jumped no the Arduino board? There are pins with no jumpers on them, didn't know if they needed to be jumped or not, thanks.:D

Hey Jeff,
Thanks for the pdf. :cool:  I really want to build my own filament extruder with it.  I measured the optos, and between the + and S the opto goes High when the flag is in.  Between the - and S the opto goes Low when the flag is in.  The only pins I have jumpered are the sets of 3 under each stepper driver board.  I didn't solder in any other pins that are there so that you can still use left over pins on the Arduino.  The Z stepper motor header has places for 2 motors to plug in if you don't want to splice them.  Can't wait to see your video!

Nate

Hi Nate, I understand how the opto's work :D, I just need to know what the voltage is between  S and ground when the opto goes high, flag blocking ir signal, led on, you can read the output voltage with your meter. I have a different opto than the ones you have and have built a circuit around them to make mine work, will have to add a npn transistor to make the led turn on when the opto goes high, so if the voltage is to high I will also have to reduce it. Also the pins on the Arduino Mega 2560 board, not the Ramps shield board, there are pins with no jumpers, did you jump any of these?:D , Well I have all the wiring done except for the power supply, need a plug for the Arduino Mega 2560 board, ;) thanks.

lol OK between - and S I read 5 volts when the flag is out, 0 when it is in.  The power supplied to the opto's comes from the Mega board, which is 5 volts.  Are you supplying a separate power source?  I didn't jumper any thing on the Mega  board, I honestly didn't think to look there. lol The power plug for the Arduino, I found causes problems when your programming.  It's like it never resets or something.  So I think that will just be used when printing from SD RAMPS, which I haven't tried yet.  
I think I have my calibration as near as i can get it.  I still have some "out of round" on my printed gears.  I suspect my Y axis belt tension..  might just rebuild the lower bed.

Nate

Quote from firepinto on October 23rd, 2011, 03:07 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on October 23rd, 2011, 10:21 AM

Quote from firepinto on October 23rd, 2011, 09:44 AM

Quote from Jeff Nading on October 23rd, 2011, 07:00 AM

Hi Nate, here is the schematic for the temp control that I sent you, should make it easy to wire up :D , I will send a photo of the controls on the front of the panel later - to help understand what all the led's and such are for. Were you able to check the output voltage on the opto end stops? No pressure, I know your busy, I have my Prusa just about  completely wired, I'll post a video later today if I have time. Oh, meant to ask, are there any pins to be jumped no the Arduino board? There are pins with no jumpers on them, didn't know if they needed to be jumped or not, thanks.:D

Hey Jeff,
Thanks for the pdf. :cool:  I really want to build my own filament extruder with it.  I measured the optos, and between the + and S the opto goes High when the flag is in.  Between the - and S the opto goes Low when the flag is in.  The only pins I have jumpered are the sets of 3 under each stepper driver board.  I didn't solder in any other pins that are there so that you can still use left over pins on the Arduino.  The Z stepper motor header has places for 2 motors to plug in if you don't want to splice them.  Can't wait to see your video!

Nate

Hi Nate, I understand how the opto's work :D, I just need to know what the voltage is between  S and ground when the opto goes high, flag blocking ir signal, led on, you can read the output voltage with your meter. I have a different opto than the ones you have and have built a circuit around them to make mine work, will have to add a npn transistor to make the led turn on when the opto goes high, so if the voltage is to high I will also have to reduce it. Also the pins on the Arduino Mega 2560 board, not the Ramps shield board, there are pins with no jumpers, did you jump any of these?:D , Well I have all the wiring done except for the power supply, need a plug for the Arduino Mega 2560 board, ;) thanks.
OK between - and S I read 5 volts when the flag is out, 0 when it is in.  The power supplied to the opto's comes from the Mega board, which is 5 volts.  Are you supplying a separate power source?  I didn't jumper any thing on the Mega  board, I honestly didn't think to look there. lol The power plug for the Arduino, I found causes problems when your programming.  It's like it never resets or something.  So I think that will just be used when printing from SD RAMPS, which I haven't tried yet.

lol
I think I have my calibration as near as i can get it.  I still have some "out of round" on my printed gears.  I suspect my Y axis belt tension..  might just rebuild the lower bed.

Nate

Ok, my opto's are exactly opposite of yours, mine go high when the flag is in, led off and low when the flag is out, led on, so , I might have to use two npn transistors to make them work the way yours do, I'll run some tests, or might just be easier to buy the ones you have. As far as a separate power supply, I was just going to use a computer power supply, I have a new 430 watt supply that will have available 16 amps @ 12 volts, thought that would be enough to run the machine by it's self. I still need to see what the voltage requirements are for the Mega and shield boards before I connect anything and power up, so that's what I will be doing next. I wonder if some of the pins on the Mega board do need to be jumped for it to reset?

Quote from Jeff Nading on October 23rd, 2011, 04:59 PM

Quote from firepinto on October 23rd, 2011, 03:07 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on October 23rd, 2011, 10:21 AM

Quote from firepinto on October 23rd, 2011, 09:44 AM

Quote from Jeff Nading on October 23rd, 2011, 07:00 AM

Hi Nate, here is the schematic for the temp control that I sent you, should make it easy to wire up :D , I will send a photo of the controls on the front of the panel later - to help understand what all the led's and such are for. Were you able to check the output voltage on the opto end stops? No pressure, I know your busy, I have my Prusa just about  completely wired, I'll post a video later today if I have time. Oh, meant to ask, are there any pins to be jumped no the Arduino board? There are pins with no jumpers on them, didn't know if they needed to be jumped or not, thanks.:D

Hey Jeff,
Thanks for the pdf. :cool:  I really want to build my own filament extruder with it.  I measured the optos, and between the + and S the opto goes High when the flag is in.  Between the - and S the opto goes Low when the flag is in.  The only pins I have jumpered are the sets of 3 under each stepper driver board.  I didn't solder in any other pins that are there so that you can still use left over pins on the Arduino.  The Z stepper motor header has places for 2 motors to plug in if you don't want to splice them.  Can't wait to see your video!

Nate

Hi Nate, I understand how the opto's work :D, I just need to know what the voltage is between  S and ground when the opto goes high, flag blocking ir signal, led on, you can read the output voltage with your meter. I have a different opto than the ones you have and have built a circuit around them to make mine work, will have to add a npn transistor to make the led turn on when the opto goes high, so if the voltage is to high I will also have to reduce it. Also the pins on the Arduino Mega 2560 board, not the Ramps shield board, there are pins with no jumpers, did you jump any of these?:D , Well I have all the wiring done except for the power supply, need a plug for the Arduino Mega 2560 board, ;) thanks.
OK between - and S I read 5 volts when the flag is out, 0 when it is in.  The power supplied to the opto's comes from the Mega board, which is 5 volts.  Are you supplying a separate power source?  I didn't jumper any thing on the Mega  board, I honestly didn't think to look there. lol The power plug for the Arduino, I found causes problems when your programming.  It's like it never resets or something.  So I think that will just be used when printing from SD RAMPS, which I haven't tried yet.

lol
I think I have my calibration as near as i can get it.  I still have some "out of round" on my printed gears.  I suspect my Y axis belt tension..  might just rebuild the lower bed.

Nate

Ok, my opto's are exactly opposite of yours, mine go high when the flag is in, led off and low when the flag is out, led on, so , I might have to use two npn transistors to make them work the way yours do, I'll run some tests, or might just be easier to buy the ones you have. As far as a separate power supply, I was just going to use a computer power supply, I have a new 430 watt supply that will have available 16 amps @ 12 volts, thought that would be enough to run the machine by it's self. I still need to see what the voltage requirements are for the Mega and shield boards before I connect anything and power up, so that's what I will be doing next. I wonder if some of the pins on the Mega board do need to be jumped for it to reset?

Jeff, opposite of mine is perfect. :cool:  Mine work opposite of normal and needed a change in the Sprinter configuration.h file.   What you have should work with out any changes to software.  My 'new' power supply has 12 Volts at 9 Amps available.   I'd need something else for a heated bed.  The 5 Volt side has many more Amps available, don't remember how many, but plenty to power the Mega.  The only thing Ive read about power for the Mega board was that it was all automatic.

Nate

Quote from firepinto on October 23rd, 2011, 05:17 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on October 23rd, 2011, 04:59 PM

Quote from firepinto on October 23rd, 2011, 03:07 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on October 23rd, 2011, 10:21 AM

Quote from firepinto on October 23rd, 2011, 09:44 AM

Hey Jeff,
Thanks for the pdf. :cool:  I really want to build my own filament extruder with it.  I measured the optos, and between the + and S the opto goes High when the flag is in.  Between the - and S the opto goes Low when the flag is in.  The only pins I have jumpered are the sets of 3 under each stepper driver board.  I didn't solder in any other pins that are there so that you can still use left over pins on the Arduino.  The Z stepper motor header has places for 2 motors to plug in if you don't want to splice them.  Can't wait to see your video!

Nate

Hi Nate, I understand how the opto's work :D, I just need to know what the voltage is between  S and ground when the opto goes high, flag blocking ir signal, led on, you can read the output voltage with your meter. I have a different opto than the ones you have and have built a circuit around them to make mine work, will have to add a npn transistor to make the led turn on when the opto goes high, so if the voltage is to high I will also have to reduce it. Also the pins on the Arduino Mega 2560 board, not the Ramps shield board, there are pins with no jumpers, did you jump any of these?:D , Well I have all the wiring done except for the power supply, need a plug for the Arduino Mega 2560 board, ;) thanks.
OK between - and S I read 5 volts when the flag is out, 0 when it is in.  The power supplied to the opto's comes from the Mega board, which is 5 volts.  Are you supplying a separate power source?  I didn't jumper any thing on the Mega  board, I honestly didn't think to look there. lol The power plug for the Arduino, I found causes problems when your programming.  It's like it never resets or something.  So I think that will just be used when printing from SD RAMPS, which I haven't tried yet.

lol
I think I have my calibration as near as i can get it.  I still have some "out of round" on my printed gears.  I suspect my Y axis belt tension..  might just rebuild the lower bed.

Nate

Ok, my opto's are exactly opposite of yours, mine go high when the flag is in, led off and low when the flag is out, led on, so , I might have to use two npn transistors to make them work the way yours do, I'll run some tests, or might just be easier to buy the ones you have. As far as a separate power supply, I was just going to use a computer power supply, I have a new 430 watt supply that will have available 16 amps @ 12 volts, thought that would be enough to run the machine by it's self. I still need to see what the voltage requirements are for the Mega and shield boards before I connect anything and power up, so that's what I will be doing next. I wonder if some of the pins on the Mega board do need to be jumped for it to reset?

Jeff, opposite of mine is perfect. :cool:  Mine work opposite of normal and needed a change in the Sprinter configuration.h file.   What you have should work with out any changes to software.  My 'new' power supply has 12 Volts at 9 Amps available.   I'd need something else for a heated bed.  The 5 Volt side has many more Amps available, don't remember how many, but plenty to power the Mega.  The only thing Ive read about power for the Mega board was that it was all automatic.

Nate

Oh, thanks Nate, I'll try my opto's the way they are then, have not downloaded any software yet, I'll do that this coming week, does the Mega need to be flashed? Thanks, Nate.

Nate, did a little research, found some helpful stuff,
http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS#Q.26A
http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS1.4#Connecting_Power
http://arduino.cc/en/Main/ArduinoBoardMega2560
http://reprap.org/wiki/PCPowerSupply
which all of this you probably already know as far as power requirements for both boards mega and shield, it cleared things up for me.