[attachment=252]    http://richrap.blogspot.com/2011/08/pimp-my-mendel-how-to-build-up-lm8uu.htm     Here is a link with pictures of the part I think you were talking about for the 608 bearings, Nate. On the aluminum plate I'll give it to you, but I might need step by step instructions configuring the arduino mega, never messed with one before, also if we could put our heads together for the software, I have read that Skeinforge is not an easy program to learn so I think you are right about wanting to use Sfact. The Z axis couplers I used one on my cnc plasma cutting machine, it works "oh so well" . The picture shows the complete lead screw assembly I put together, on the left end of the screw, I cast the nuts with threads in them, then machined them to fit the thrust bearings, I was able to remove all end play in the lead screw with those little babies and lock them in place. Is Pronterface a free program, I will Google it and check. I just received my arduino mega , no stepper motors or plastic parts yet, I think I'll have them by the end of the week though, that's it for now, Jeff.

https://github.com/kliment/Printrun  I would guess this would be one place to download Pronterface.

Quote from Jeff Nading on September 13th, 2011, 05:03 PM

https://github.com/kliment/Printrun  I would guess this would be one place to download Pronterface.

I think that is correct.  So many names isn't there?  It gets confusing!  I think they should put together instructions and software choices for beginners.  A lot of the instructional videos i've seen talk like you should already know the stuff by name.  

Quote from Jeff Nading on September 13th, 2011, 03:26 PM

http://richrap.blogspot.com/2011/08/pimp-my-mendel-how-to-build-up-lm8uu.htm     Here is a link with pictures of the part I think you were talking about for the 608 bearings, Nate. On the aluminum plate I'll give it to you, but I might need step by step instructions configuring the arduino mega, never messed with one before, also if we could put our heads together for the software, I have read that Skeinforge is not an easy program to learn so I think you are right about wanting to use Sfact. The Z axis couplers I used one on my cnc plasma cutting machine, it works "oh so well" . The picture shows the complete lead screw assembly I put together, on the left end of the screw, I cast the nuts with threads in them, then machined them to fit the thrust bearings, I was able to remove all end play in the lead screw with those little babies and lock them in place. Is Pronterface a free program, I will Google it and check. I just received my arduino mega , no stepper motors or plastic parts yet, I think I'll have them by the end of the week though, that's it for now, Jeff.

Thanks Jeff! I think I'll be making a video of my software trials.  Youtube seems to have only videos of the machines printing, and not so many of how to press the "print button".  Uploading firmware to the arduino is easy, first time I've ever  used it was for the PulseFire software on my Arduino UNO.  I believe Pronterface is completely free and open source.  I think we will definitely need to share notes to get the prints to come out perfect.:cool:
I got my RAMPS board all soldered up while I watched Russ work on  EPG dividers on Justintv tonight.:)  I'm so glad I had the SMT parts factory installed.  The rest of the parts were really easy to install.  Worth saving the cost of a fully assembled board.  

Nate

Hi Nate, my stepper motors came in :D, I found a software program that runs the machine, ????   here is the link   http://replicat.org/    check it out and tell me what you think, also if you could take measurements of your bed plate and send that info to me, Jeff.

Nate this link blew me away   http://3dhomemade.blogspot.com/   ,:cool:  it's a high resolution 3d printer using wax, something I was going to try with the Prusa, I guess this will be the next one for me to build, Jeff.:D

Quote from Jeff Nading on September 15th, 2011, 03:38 PM

Nate this link blew me away   http://3dhomemade.blogspot.com/   ,:cool:  it's a high resolution 3d printer using wax, something I was going to try with the Prusa, I guess this will be the next one for me to build, Jeff.:D

That looks really cool, is it a laser melting wax or something? The wax would work great for casting aluminum?  

I got my SDRAMPS and stepper motor drivers put together.  I'll have to get some time in the garage to finish putting together the x,y,z parts.  I'll measure up the bed then. :cool:

Nate

Nate can you do me a favor and measure all of your threaded, smooth and measuring devise rods, also telling me quantities of each rod, in SAE terms, then send that info to me along with the heated bed plate measurement you have for me, the wiki page where this info can be found is very confusing :huh: :exclamation:, can't make heads or tails of what they are trying to tell us, thanks, Jeff.:D

Quote from Jeff Nading on September 16th, 2011, 12:27 PM

Nate can you do me a favor and measure all of your threaded, smooth and measuring devise rods, also telling me quantities of each rod, in SAE terms, then send that info to me along with the heated bed plate measurement you have for me, the wiki page where this info can be found is very confusing :huh: :exclamation:, can't make heads or tails of what they are trying to tell us, thanks, Jeff.:D

I hear ya about the confusing wiki.  I got my measurements from the SAE wiki here:
http://reprap.org/wiki/SAE_Prusa_Mendel

Here are the measurements for if you bought your threaded rods in 3 foot lengths.   Rod1 makes two 18" rods, Rod2 makes one 18" one 15" and one 2" rod, and so on.. They basically just rounded up to the nearest inch from the metric version:
Rod1:          18",18"
Rod2:         18",15",2"
Rod3:         15",15"
Rod4:         15",12",9"
Rod5:         15",12",9"
Rod6:         12",12"
Rod7:         15"

Here is the measurements for the smooth rod in 3 foot lengths:
Rod1:         16.5",14"
Rod2:         16.5",14"
Rod3:         16",16"

I actually measured my jig bars in millimeters.  I went out and searched for a day trying to find a ruler that had millimeters!  Almost impossible.  I measured them with my SAE tape measure:
234mm jig = A hair under 9 3/16"
290mm jig = 11 3/8" darn close

The bed is ruffly 8 3/4" x 9 5/16".  There are special notches here and there, that I would need to draw up to show clearly.  

I switched to using their pdf file for assembling the reprap.  I'm not really going in order but the pictures really help.  I'll attach it here. :-)   I could mail you my jigs if you like?

Nate

Yes, this is what I did not get,:blush: I was  missing something:huh:. S0 the first, secondary and third measurements = rod one 18", 18"= 36" then rod two 18", 15", 2", = 35" and so on, are from 3' links. The jigs are just rods, are they not, I can use the MM measurements to cut them. I am a little dyslexic and missed some of the reading, I thought there was not enough info for me to proceed,:blush: thanks for explaining.:D

Quote from Jeff Nading on September 16th, 2011, 06:35 PM

Yes, this is what I did not get,:blush: I was  missing something:huh:. S0 the first, secondary and third measurements = rod one 18", 18"= 36" then rod two 18", 15", 2", = 35" and so on, are from 3' links. The jigs are just rods, are they not, I can use the MM measurements to cut them. I am a little dyslexic and missed some of the reading, I thought there was not enough info for me to proceed,:blush: thanks for explaining.:D

Not a problem, believe me I read the thing over and over too.  :P The pdf seems to have more clear info in it.  Yeah the jigs can be rods, I made mine out of aluminum 3/4" x 1/8" bar stock I had laying around.  :)

Im working on getting my X and Z axis done.  My smooth rods and bronze bushings are giving me grief.  The tolerance seems way too tight.  Plus the rods look like they were rolled and have a bit of a spiral in them.  I've had to smooth them down more with a scotchbrite pad, and still had some binding.  I tried "lapping" the bushings to the rods sort of like you would do when you lap a engine valve to the head seat.  I used a little chrome polish on the rod and worked the X carriage back and forth by hand.  Have to be careful not too get too much on or it can get stuck.   It's working fairly good, just takes awhile.  I'm repeating the process over and over with WD-40 instead of chrome polish to flush out all the grit and metal dust.   The Z axis isnt going to be as easy to do. :dodgy:  I wish I had the PLA bearings now.

I also had a couple casualties with some reprap printed parts.  The little belt clamp things crumbed under pressure.  I probably had them too tight but they are hollow inside.  I tossed them out and made some out of aluminum 1/2" x 1/8" bar stock.  

I hope I get lots of progress tomorrow.  Gotta jet on Sunday. :-/

Nate

Hi Nate, I just had an idea to fit your bushings quickly, I have done this and it works very well, take part of the rod  [6"] you have left over and grind a diagonal flat on one end, about  3/4" through the diameter to nothing further up the rod about 1" in length, then use it as a drill bit, in a drill, to the inside of the bushing. Using the rod in this way will or should make the bushing fit the rod, therefor side easily:D. It should work even better if all the bushings are installed on the sled and use the new bit or reamer you just made to alien both sets of bushings to each other. If the bushings are not aliened to each other, this in it's self will cause binding and problems.

Quote from Jeff Nading on September 17th, 2011, 06:44 AM

Hi Nate, I just had an idea to fit your bushings quickly, I have done this and it works very well, take part of the rod  [6"] you have left over and grind a diagonal flat on one end, about  3/4" through the diameter to nothing further up the rod about 1" in length, then use it as a drill bit, in a drill, to the inside of the bushing. Using the rod in this way will or should make the bushing fit the rod, therefor side easily:D. It should work even better if all the bushings are installed on the sled and use the new bit or reamer you just made to alien both sets of bushings to each other. If the bushings are not aliened to each other, this in it's self will cause binding and problems.

I think most of my problems are the variations in size of my rods.  I pulled some of them out and chucked them into my high speed corded bosch drill.  Then held a scotchbrite pad around the rod and spun it smooth.  That combined with my chrome polish trick helped a lot.  
I made my hobbed bolt for the wades extruder today.  I hope it works, it didn't turn out like the pictures I've seen.  I turned it down with the lathe a bit, then tried the tap method of making teeth in the bolt.  The bolt they put in the kit isn't really long enough, the threads end up being where you need to hob. I hand tested some filament, and turning the gear by hand will pull the filament through my fingers while pinching it with a tight grip.  Still waiting for the hot end, planning my wiring is next on the list.  I might make a video first. :cool:

Nate

Got my printed plastic parts today:D ya! I'll start cutting my rods tonight and put some of the frame together. Look forward to the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GgLYBQGUhRg

While the video uploaded, I went shopping for more parts.  I found the correct diameter metric bolts for the Wade's spring tensioner.  I also found some springs for the Z axis downward pressure that worked great.  Picked up some shrink tubing and wire ties, plus some spare bolts to "hob" in case I failed on my first try. :s

Glad to see you got your parts Jeff.  Now the fun begins!

Attached some pics: :D

Nate

Putting together the wades extruder, I noticed some stress cracks in the body.  :s  I looked into the accessible version to replace it once it's up and going.   Greg Frost is a guy who modified Wade's design a few times.  I think it will be my first self made upgrade.:cool:

Here's the link to it on Thingiverse:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8252

The file links are way at the bottom.  Anyone ever use Openscad?

Nate

Hello everyone I'm new here, just a thought about the heated bed on this machine you could use the elements out of hair straightners for the perpose they come in different wattages and sizes also this is a nice place to exchange ideas I haven't used forum's before so I'm totaly new to the etiket or how things are done. I have a youtube channel user name HAWK491000 hope to post some of my stan meyer work here.. Cheers HAWK........

Quote from Hawk on September 18th, 2011, 01:55 PM

Hello everyone I'm new here, just a thought about the heated bed on this machine you could use the elements out of hair straightners for the perpose they come in different wattages and sizes also this is a nice place to exchange ideas I haven't used forum's before so I'm totaly new to the etiket or how things are done. I have a youtube channel user name HAWK491000 hope to post some of my stan meyer work here.. Cheers HAWK........

Welcome Hawk!  Glad you made it here.  :)  Definitely a good place to exchange ideas.  
I'm not sure what the ideal temperature is supposed to be for the bed.  That idea might work, but probably needs a thermostat so the project don't melt down. :) The control boards may even have an input for that.  I bought PLA filament for my first prints instead of ABS.  As far as I know the headed bed is used mainly for ABS.

Nate

Alot of those hair straightners have variable temp controls I have 2 or 3 dead ones about, having 4 daughters who destroy things regulary.  I will dig one out and take some pics of the internal workings so you get an idea of what I'm talking about. As well as working for 20 years on fishing trawlers I aslo worked for  1 1\2 years for a company doing plastic welding and fabrication maybe thats why this reprap apeall's to me ....Cheers HAWK......

Hi Hawk, nice to hear from you, I have been watching your videos ever since Russ turned us on to your coil winder, that's really cool. :cool: Yes , I agree with what you said about needless killing of animals, It makes me sick inside. Sad to say man is the smartest and most reasoning creature on the face of the earth, but yet are we, destroying the very place we live . The greed factor and the love of money is the root cause of so many problems in this world, just read about Tesla's life and what J.P. Morgan  did to him, stopped free energy, our dependency on oil we might as well be living in the dark ages.:(  Well enough of my rant. Don't stop your work with the EPG, we all need it, I think you are right in trying some kind of gas as an inductor for the EPG, you said you needed to get another PWM, have you looked at Dave Lawton's, I built two of them, they work well,  link,    http://energialibrebcn.blogspot.es/img/stanley-meyer.pdf   I along with building the 3d printer also am in the process of building a 9 cell HHO cell, link, my youtube channel,    https://www.youtube.com/user/nadingjeff?feature=mhee   ,   Well take care over in Ireland, I live in Texas. :D

I found this video of someone who switched to Pronterface on his RepRap.  He shows the software a bit.  Kind of interesting. :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Mk8quNoWTI

I wish I could pack my RepRap in my suitcase, lol hotels are so boring...

Nate

Ha Nate, I was installing the Z axis, had an idea for the all thread top nuts above the springs, noticed the plastic was a little larger than the nuts are so I took some heat shrink tubing put it over the nut with the nut screwed on to the all thread, heated it, let it shrink down over the nut and all thread so it would take up the slack as it is inserted into the plastic housing, you can also grease the nut, the shrink tubing around the all thread will keep the dust out, I think this will also help the resolution. Tried to post a  picture but couldn't.

Quote from Jeff Nading on September 21st, 2011, 08:12 PM

Ha Nate, I was installing the Z axis, had an idea for the all thread top nuts above the springs, noticed the plastic was a little larger than the nuts are so I took some heat shrink tubing put it over the nut with the nut screwed on to the all thread, heated it, let it shrink down over the nut and all thread so it would take up the slack as it is inserted into the plastic housing, you can also grease the nut, the shrink tubing around the all thread will keep the dust out, I think this will also help the resolution. Tried to post a  picture but couldn't.

try attaching the photo? not shure why it would not work?

fantastic ideas you have going on there jeff!

keep it up guys! looking forward to seeing these run!

~Russ

Quote from Jeff Nading on September 21st, 2011, 08:12 PM

Ha Nate, I was installing the Z axis, had an idea for the all thread top nuts above the springs, noticed the plastic was a little larger than the nuts are so I took some heat shrink tubing put it over the nut with the nut screwed on to the all thread, heated it, let it shrink down over the nut and all thread so it would take up the slack as it is inserted into the plastic housing, you can also grease the nut, the shrink tubing around the all thread will keep the dust out, I think this will also help the resolution. Tried to post a  picture but couldn't.

Sounds like a great idea Jeff.  I have some at home, I'll give it a try.  I remember from somewhere, someone said that silicon spray was the best lube for these things.  I'll probably switch to that once I feel the rods are all running smooth and are "broke in".  I'm thinking your going to be all caught up to me by the time I get back to work on mine. lol

Nate

Quote from firepinto on September 22nd, 2011, 01:14 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on September 21st, 2011, 08:12 PM

Ha Nate, I was installing the Z axis, had an idea for the all thread top nuts above the springs, noticed the plastic was a little larger than the nuts are so I took some heat shrink tubing put it over the nut with the nut screwed on to the all thread, heated it, let it shrink down over the nut and all thread so it would take up the slack as it is inserted into the plastic housing, you can also grease the nut, the shrink tubing around the all thread will keep the dust out, I think this will also help the resolution. Tried to post a  picture but couldn't.

Sounds like a great idea Jeff.  I have some at home, I'll give it a try.  I remember from somewhere, someone said that silicon spray was the best lube for these things.  I'll probably switch to that once I feel the rods are all running smooth and are "broke in".  I'm thinking your going to be all caught up to me by the time I get back to work on mine. lol

Nate

Oh, just to mention I did this on the hobbed bolt head also, just had to cut the heat shrink off the under side of the bolt head so as not to change the center spacing of the bolt for the filament. You will more than likely be done with the build before I am, still have to put all the electronic's together, also going to try to cast the print bed plates this weekend, I have made the pattern already, still have to make the sand molds, melt the aluminum and pour the molds, it will be an all day project, I'll try to make a video of it as I go through the motions.:) Still trying to post a picture, I have done it before, I'll try a lower pixel, maybe that will help. Ha, success, I lowered the pixels, then the photo's went through, good.:D

Quote from Jeff Nading on September 22nd, 2011, 04:47 PM

Quote from firepinto on September 22nd, 2011, 01:14 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on September 21st, 2011, 08:12 PM

Ha Nate, I was installing the Z axis, had an idea for the all thread top nuts above the springs, noticed the plastic was a little larger than the nuts are so I took some heat shrink tubing put it over the nut with the nut screwed on to the all thread, heated it, let it shrink down over the nut and all thread so it would take up the slack as it is inserted into the plastic housing, you can also grease the nut, the shrink tubing around the all thread will keep the dust out, I think this will also help the resolution. Tried to post a  picture but couldn't.

Sounds like a great idea Jeff.  I have some at home, I'll give it a try.  I remember from somewhere, someone said that silicon spray was the best lube for these things.  I'll probably switch to that once I feel the rods are all running smooth and are "broke in".  I'm thinking your going to be all caught up to me by the time I get back to work on mine. lol

Nate

Oh, just to mention I did this on the hobbed bolt head also, just had to cut the heat shrink off the under side of the bolt head so as not to change the center spacing of the bolt for the filament. You will more than likely be done with the build before I am, still have to put all the electronic's together, also going to try to cast the print bed plates this weekend, I have made the pattern already, still have to make the sand molds, melt the aluminum and pour the molds, it will be an all day project, I'll try to make a video of it as I go through the motions.:) Still trying to post a picture, I have done it before, I'll try a lower pixel, maybe that will help. Ha, success, I lowered the pixels, then the photo's went through, good.:D

That's looking great Jeff!  The stainless hardware really makes it look nice. :)  I like the Z axis couplers too.  My Hobbed bolt fit nice and snug on my gear.:huh:  

Nate

Some print ideas Ive been kicking around:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=faZjMCtr2XM