Quote from Jeff Nading on April 29th, 2012, 04:38 PM

Quote from firepinto on April 29th, 2012, 03:53 PM

New Y axis drive. :)
www.youtube.com/watch?v=uZ6OD7tsTWM&

That's really cool Nate and really quiet too, nice build.

Thanks Jeff,
I'll post up the files for it soon.:cool:

This looks like the best thing out there for RepRap style dual extruding:
http://www.okob.net/projects/reprap/default.htm

He has a modified version of Marlin for dual extruders.  Plus he has a G code merging GUI that will merge the two designs into one file.  I'm hoping more of this is figured out by the time my printer is done!

Nate

lol Well so much for getting my Kapton tape this week.  UPS required a signiture, and after the 3rd attempt they returned it to sender.  I better get a refund out of this. lol  I think it's bs that they dont inform you that they are shipping with a signiture requirement.  Gotta love being a nomad!

Nate

Quote from firepinto on June 8th, 2012, 04:06 PM

lol Well so much for getting my Kapton tape this week.  UPS required a signiture, and after the 3rd attempt they returned it to sender.  I better get a refund out of this. lol  I think it's bs that they dont inform you that they are shipping with a signiture requirement.  Gotta love being a nomad!

Nate

Sorry Nate, I did not remember that they required a signature.

Quote from Jeff Nading on June 9th, 2012, 05:40 AM

Quote from firepinto on June 8th, 2012, 04:06 PM

lol Well so much for getting my Kapton tape this week.  UPS required a signiture, and after the 3rd attempt they returned it to sender.  I better get a refund out of this. lol  I think it's bs that they dont inform you that they are shipping with a signiture requirement.  Gotta love being a nomad!

Nate

Sorry Nate, I did not remember that they required a signature.

No problem Jeff, lol I get in trouble with that all the time when im gone all week.  Hopefully it works out some how.

Started building my new power supply for the Dell NPS-700AB A.  Printed 3D files can be found here.  I'm still missing some parts and other parts need an upgrade in amperage rating.  Enjoy the pics!
[attachment=2855][attachment=2856][attachment=2857][attachment=2858][attachment=2859][attachment=2860][attachment=2861]

Hope to have more soon!

Nate

Quote from firepinto on December 28th, 2012, 12:24 PM

Started building my new power supply for the Dell NPS-700AB A.  Printed 3D files can be found here.  I'm still missing some parts and other parts need an upgrade in amperage rating.  Enjoy the pics!


Hope to have more soon!

Nate

Very nice Nate, good work.:cool::D:P

I will be getting back into 3D printing shortly. It has been a while since I've touched the MakerGear Prusa. :)

I really needed a glass bed so I recently got a borosilicate glass bed from Lulzbot. Will need to install.

http://www.lulzbot.com/?q=products/borosilicate-glass-bed-300mm-x300mm

Quote from haxar on December 28th, 2012, 07:33 PM

I will be getting back into 3D printing shortly. It has been a while since I've touched the MakerGear Prusa. :)

I really needed a glass bed so I recently got a borosilicate glass bed from Lulzbot. Will need to install.

http://www.lulzbot.com/?q=products/borosilicate-glass-bed-300mm-x300mm

I have a sheet of that, that came with my used production line lulzbot.  It hasn't broke yet. lol  Sometimes im surprised.

So first my extruder gear snaps off a tooth, now the arduino disconnected half way through a print. :dodgy: So I jimmy the USB cable and reconnect, all looks good again.  So I tried the Recover button on pronterface, which i tried once before with bad results.  Well I forgot to turn on the heat again so it started with out extruding.  So, pause let warm up.  Try Recover again.. first layer seemed to go well.  Next layer........ Z axis moved down!  $%#&^$!!:@:dodgy:  If you dont have a spring loaded bed I would never push that button!  LOL my luck.  I've been trying to print these two parts for 3 days.  Lets hope this one works!

Nate

Quote from firepinto on January 4th, 2013, 06:50 PM

So first my extruder gear snaps off a tooth, now the arduino disconnected half way through a print. :dodgy: So I jimmy the USB cable and reconnect, all looks good again.  So I tried the Recover button on pronterface, which i tried once before with bad results.  Well I forgot to turn on the heat again so it started with out extruding.  So, pause let warm up.  Try Recover again.. first layer seemed to go well.  Next layer........ Z axis moved down!  $%#&^$!!:@:dodgy:  If you dont have a spring loaded bed I would never push that button!  LOL my luck.  I've been trying to print these two parts for 3 days.  Lets hope this one works!

Nate

Yes, I know the feeling, I've had the hotend crash into the heated bed more than once. I wonder if Russ has thought about that for the Rostock printer.

Quote from Jeff Nading on January 4th, 2013, 07:01 PM

Quote from firepinto on January 4th, 2013, 06:50 PM

So first my extruder gear snaps off a tooth, now the arduino disconnected half way through a print. :dodgy: So I jimmy the USB cable and reconnect, all looks good again.  So I tried the Recover button on pronterface, which i tried once before with bad results.  Well I forgot to turn on the heat again so it started with out extruding.  So, pause let warm up.  Try Recover again.. first layer seemed to go well.  Next layer........ Z axis moved down!  $%#&^$!!:@:dodgy:  If you dont have a spring loaded bed I would never push that button!  LOL my luck.  I've been trying to print these two parts for 3 days.  Lets hope this one works!

Nate

Yes, I know the feeling, I've had the hotend crash into the heated bed more than once. I wonder if Russ has thought about that for the Rostock printer.

Well, I got the second part printed.  It's the wrong size. :rolleyes:  LOL oh well I have some silver one's printed that are right... guess ill be using those... so much for keeping it one color. :P  

Quote from Jeff Nading on January 4th, 2013, 07:01 PM

Yes, I know the feeling, I've had the hotend crash into the heated bed more than once. I wonder if Russ has thought about that for the Rostock printer.

nope that wont happen to me... lol i will most likely install some end stops so it wont smash to bad...

but i plan on doing all my testing with an inkpin for setup...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=73LF5ZWVP9s

Interesting Nate, but I am a little confused.  When I first got my CNC router I read a bunch of stuff about limit switches--oh how they were so vital, but you can run your machine without them.  Being a little impatient, I decided to run my machine without them.  I've never looked back.  With a decent CAM program, you set your start position, check your boundaries and run the thing.  There's no need for limit switches.  As long as you are certain your X, Y and Z run smooth and you don't stress the steppers by trying to cut too fast or too deep, it works like a charm.  I've done runs of over ten hours and when I send the machine home, it is exactly right where I started from.

So am I to assume these RepRap printers don't have that kind of accuracy or does the software try to move the stepper motors in such a way they lose their positioning?  Just curious.

Quote from Dog-One on February 24th, 2013, 09:31 PM

Interesting Nate, but I am a little confused.  When I first got my CNC router I read a bunch of stuff about limit switches--oh how they were so vital, but you can run your machine without them.  Being a little impatient, I decided to run my machine without them.  I've never looked back.  With a decent CAM program, you set your start position, check your boundaries and run the thing.  There's no need for limit switches.  As long as you are certain your X, Y and Z run smooth and you don't stress the steppers by trying to cut too fast or too deep, it works like a charm.  I've done runs of over ten hours and when I send the machine home, it is exactly right where I started from.

So am I to assume these RepRap printers don't have that kind of accuracy or does the software try to move the stepper motors in such a way they lose their positioning?  Just curious.

RepRaps need at least the 3 home position limits.  The g code usually starts off by sending each axis to its home limit.  The main reason the axis lose their position is that the motors are turned off after each print.  Then the x and y can be moved by hand.  That is why I want to add a limit to the other side of my Y axis.  When I slide the bed forward after a print is finished, sometimes I click the wrong 100mm Y travel button and the bed crashes into the frame.  
Sometimes too, the steppers can skip steps if the drivers arent tuned high enough causing home position to be lost.  
I suppose all the homing g code could be removed and it could start where ever the extruder starts from, but usually the parts I print use up the entire bed surface.

Nate

Hey Jeff,
Check out this Mendel modification:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vVHvbCfxZdU

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8852

I think we should take this idea out fishing, what ya think? ;)  I've thought about this before, using a block and tackle setup but didn't think it would move both directions easy.  I'll try to get to this soon. :cool:

Nate

Quote from firepinto on September 4th, 2013, 07:15 AM

Hey Jeff,
Check out this Mendel modification:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vVHvbCfxZdU

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8852

I think we should take this idea out fishing, what ya think? ;)  I've thought about this before, using a block and tackle setup but didn't think it would move both directions easy.  I'll try to get to this soon. :cool:

Nate

The operation of the parts moving look to be very precise. This design would increase torque so you could increase the size of the printer and move heaver loads with the same electronics and steppers we used, cool design. :cool::cool::D  It would be more costly to build, more printed parts and longer belts, but with a larger print area it would be worth it. :cool:

Watching that video, it doesn't move very fast.  Is that normal for RepRap printer?   My Probotix CNC moves that fast and it uses direct drive screw threads instead of belts and still has 2000 steps per inch.

Quote from Dog-One on September 4th, 2013, 05:06 PM

Watching that video, it doesn't move very fast.  Is that normal for RepRap printer?   My Probotix CNC moves that fast and it uses direct drive screw threads instead of belts and still has 2000 steps per inch.

I think that was just his test run.  There is another video of it printing that i haven’t watched yet.  Speed is completely configurable in a slicing program that builds the G code.  Just about all printers can move faster than the extruded plastic can fuse to the previous layer properly.  It's all a balancing act sometimes. :)

Quote from Jeff Nading on September 4th, 2013, 04:06 PM

Quote from firepinto on September 4th, 2013, 07:15 AM

Hey Jeff,
Check out this Mendel modification:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8852

I think we should take this idea out fishing, what ya think? ;)  I've thought about this before, using a block and tackle setup but didn't think it would move both directions easy.  I'll try to get to this soon. :cool:

Nate

The operation of the parts moving look to be very precise. This design would increase torque so you could increase the size of the printer and move heaver loads with the same electronics and steppers we used, cool design. :cool::cool::D  It would be more costly to build, more printed parts and longer belts, but with a larger print area it would be worth it. :cool:

Well the original Mendel was always really bulky.  I found some small sealed bearings that will work out excellent with the braided line instead of belts.  There is always a way to simplify a complex machine. :D

Quote from Dog-One on September 4th, 2013, 05:06 PM

Watching that video, it doesn't move very fast.  Is that normal for RepRap printer?   My Probotix CNC moves that fast and it uses direct drive screw threads instead of belts and still has 2000 steps per inch.

Hi D1, I guess it would depend on which software was being used and what is being printed, but for the most part 3D printers are slow. To give you an idea, the small drive gear that moves the belt takes about 10 minutes to print, the X ends that Nate designed, the motor X end will take a good 3 1/2  hours to print.