RepRap Self Replicating 3D Prototyping Printer

Jeff Nading

RE: RepRap Self Replicating 3D Prototyping Printer
« Reply #226, on March 11th, 2012, 09:04 PM »
Quote from firepinto on March 11th, 2012, 08:31 PM
Latest Upgrade to my old Prusa.  It finally gets a RAMPS box!  It got the first prototype off the line.  There is a list of tweaks I want to do, so this one isn't 100%.  Still need to design mounting brackets...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E9zQmHjugDA&

Nate
That's really cool Nate, I like it, I LIKE IT ALLOT!:cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::D

firepinto

RE: RepRap Self Replicating 3D Prototyping Printer
« Reply #227, on March 11th, 2012, 09:31 PM »
Quote from Jeff Nading on March 11th, 2012, 09:04 PM
Quote from firepinto on March 11th, 2012, 08:31 PM
Latest Upgrade to my old Prusa.  It finally gets a RAMPS box!  It got the first prototype off the line.  There is a list of tweaks I want to do, so this one isn't 100%.  Still need to design mounting brackets...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E9zQmHjugDA&

Nate
That's really cool Nate, I like it, I LIKE IT ALLOT!:cool::cool::cool::cool::cool::D
Thanks Jeff!  I'm getting closer.:cool:

Jeff Nading

RE: RepRap Self Replicating 3D Prototyping Printer
« Reply #228, on March 13th, 2012, 04:00 PM »
Say Nate, what did you use to calibrate your Prusa? I am close but not the way I want it to be, still off a little and out of round, I have tried different things even check X and Y for square with each other, all is good, cannot seem to find the problem, any ideas? The top of a print seems worse than the bottom, but still out of round.:huh::(:(:(

firepinto

RE: RepRap Self Replicating 3D Prototyping Printer
« Reply #229, on March 13th, 2012, 05:41 PM »
Quote from Jeff Nading on March 13th, 2012, 04:00 PM
Say Nate, what did you use to calibrate your Prusa? I am close but not the way I want it to be, still off a little and out of round, I have tried different things even check X and Y for square with each other, all is good, cannot seem to find the problem, any ideas? The top of a print seems worse than the bottom, but still out of round.:huh::(:(:(
I used my calipers with the instructions from the videos on Youtube.  I've found that my smaller round holes print a little out of round too.  I think slowing down the print helps a lot.  I noticed on my prints I get a little waviness after the nozzle makes a corner.  I'm thinking that comes from belt lash and added weight.  I'm guessing belt lash is the biggest problem.  It reminds me of an aftershock wave, in print form. lol For some reason I can print cubes that measure right on, but my holes always print small on their inside diameter.  Also try reducing the temp of your hot end if the top is turning out worse.  I've found that when the printed part gets smaller on the top, the last layer doesn't cool off fast enough before the nozzle comes by to lay the next layer.  I've seen the nozzle actually seem to twist the print as it lays the next round when its not cooled off.

FYI.. When I printed my duel x ends, I had to pretty much press fit the small nuts in the smooth rod clamps.  I just stacked some washers on the screw and pressed in the nut that way.  Are the linear bearing clamps fitting the bearing ok, or are they getting out of round too?

Nate

Jeff Nading

RE: RepRap Self Replicating 3D Prototyping Printer
« Reply #230, on March 13th, 2012, 06:16 PM »Last edited on March 13th, 2012, 06:17 PM by Jeff Nading
Quote from firepinto on March 13th, 2012, 05:41 PM
Quote from Jeff Nading on March 13th, 2012, 04:00 PM
Say Nate, what did you use to calibrate your Prusa? I am close but not the way I want it to be, still off a little and out of round, I have tried different things even check X and Y for square with each other, all is good, cannot seem to find the problem, any ideas? The top of a print seems worse than the bottom, but still out of round.:huh::(:(:(
I used my calipers with the instructions from the videos on Youtube.  I've found that my smaller round holes print a little out of round too.  I think slowing down the print helps a lot.  I noticed on my prints I get a little waviness after the nozzle makes a corner.  I'm thinking that comes from belt lash and added weight.  I'm guessing belt lash is the biggest problem.  It reminds me of an aftershock wave, in print form. lol For some reason I can print cubes that measure right on, but my holes always print small on their inside diameter.  Also try reducing the temp of your hot end if the top is turning out worse.  I've found that when the printed part gets smaller on the top, the last layer doesn't cool off fast enough before the nozzle comes by to lay the next layer.  I've seen the nozzle actually seem to twist the print as it lays the next round when its not cooled off.

FYI.. When I printed my duel x ends, I had to pretty much press fit the small nuts in the smooth rod clamps.  I just stacked some washers on the screw and pressed in the nut that way.  Are the linear bearing clamps fitting the bearing ok, or are they getting out of round too?

Nate
The X ends are fine with the roundness, bearings fit fine, it's the outside between the bearing clamp and the spring and nut housing that some of the wall is not lined up properly, also I have noticed when printing clockwise things are fine, things start to get out of line when the machine starts to print counter clockwise, same from left front to right rear. I have calibrated same way you did with calipers, there is a test square that also shows center of the print test, it takes about one minute to print, it is about the best I have found to do a print test with, I am only out 1mm out of round, I just can't seem to get the last little bit out of it, I'll keep trying, thanks Nate.

firepinto

RE: RepRap Self Replicating 3D Prototyping Printer
« Reply #231, on March 13th, 2012, 06:46 PM »
Quote from Jeff Nading on March 13th, 2012, 06:16 PM
Quote from firepinto on March 13th, 2012, 05:41 PM
Quote from Jeff Nading on March 13th, 2012, 04:00 PM
Say Nate, what did you use to calibrate your Prusa? I am close but not the way I want it to be, still off a little and out of round, I have tried different things even check X and Y for square with each other, all is good, cannot seem to find the problem, any ideas? The top of a print seems worse than the bottom, but still out of round.:huh::(:(:(
I used my calipers with the instructions from the videos on Youtube.  I've found that my smaller round holes print a little out of round too.  I think slowing down the print helps a lot.  I noticed on my prints I get a little waviness after the nozzle makes a corner.  I'm thinking that comes from belt lash and added weight.  I'm guessing belt lash is the biggest problem.  It reminds me of an aftershock wave, in print form. lol For some reason I can print cubes that measure right on, but my holes always print small on their inside diameter.  Also try reducing the temp of your hot end if the top is turning out worse.  I've found that when the printed part gets smaller on the top, the last layer doesn't cool off fast enough before the nozzle comes by to lay the next layer.  I've seen the nozzle actually seem to twist the print as it lays the next round when its not cooled off.

FYI.. When I printed my duel x ends, I had to pretty much press fit the small nuts in the smooth rod clamps.  I just stacked some washers on the screw and pressed in the nut that way.  Are the linear bearing clamps fitting the bearing ok, or are they getting out of round too?

Nate
The X ends are fine with the roundness, bearings fit fine, it's the outside between the bearing clamp and the spring and nut housing that some of the wall is not lined up properly, also I have noticed when printing clockwise things are fine, things start to get out of line when the machine starts to print counter clockwise, same from left front to right rear. I have calibrated same way you did with calipers, there is a test square that also shows center of the print test, it takes about one minute to print, it is about the best I have found to do a print test with, I am only out 1mm out of round, I just can't seem to get the last little bit out of it, I'll keep trying, thanks Nate.
I think I know what you mean with the wall not lined up, there is a gap?  I've had something like that on my multispool vic bobbin.  The square hole always had a gap in one side of the wall.  I think if it is like that, it might have to do with skeinforge.  Maybe check the print path on pronterface and scroll up the layers holding the shift key.  See if that area is actually being told to print that way.

Jeff Nading

RE: RepRap Self Replicating 3D Prototyping Printer
« Reply #232, on March 17th, 2012, 08:01 PM »
Hi Nate, liked the video, I think that will solve the weight problem, also I'm wondering if the Y axis would be more stable if there were four linear bearings guiding it instead of three linked here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12664 I'll try it , I'm printing it as I am typing this post, I also want to try it to see if the weight difference will make any change in resolution. One other point I would like to ask is, what do you have your Z axis set for when it raises to the next layer of print? I'm thinking if it is a little to high it could cause some of the problem you and I are having with the wall gaps?

firepinto

RE: RepRap Self Replicating 3D Prototyping Printer
« Reply #233, on March 17th, 2012, 08:11 PM »
Quote from Jeff Nading on March 17th, 2012, 08:01 PM
Hi Nate, liked the video, I think that will solve the weight problem, also I'm wondering if the Y axis would be more stable if there were four linear bearings guiding it instead of three linked here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12664 I'll try it , I'm printing it as I am typing this post, I also want to try it to see if the weight difference will make any change in resolution. One other point I would like to ask is, what do you have your Z axis set for when it raises to the next layer of print? I'm thinking if it is a little to high it could cause some of the problem you and I are having with the wall gaps?
Hey Jeff,
I think 4 bearings are a good idea.  My rod on the single bearing side is wearing out already.  I get a rumble noise from it where the bearing moves the most.  I plan on replacing my rods with stainless, after i get number 2 printing.  I'll check my z settings, but i think its close.  Im printing a 40mm cube so I can measure the Z also.  The gear drive seems to be working well.  I don't see all the jitters on my corners anymore and my belt doesnt vibrate like a guitar string.  The bed stops dead and reverses fast now.

Nate

Jeff Nading

RE: RepRap Self Replicating 3D Prototyping Printer
« Reply #237, on March 20th, 2012, 08:12 PM »Last edited on March 23rd, 2012, 07:56 PM by Jeff Nading
Nate , did you see the post of the low cost Arduino's I posted, here
http://open-source-energy.org/?tid=122&pid=3697#pid3697
 I just bought two mega's half price, of course their in Hong Kong, will take about three or four week's to get them in, but that's alright for half price I can wait. The video's are really cool. I am printing again with my new four linear bearing Y axis carriage, now circles are coming out round :P:P:P looking good :D

firepinto

RE: RepRap Self Replicating 3D Prototyping Printer
« Reply #238, on March 23rd, 2012, 07:11 PM »Last edited on March 23rd, 2012, 07:43 PM by firepinto
I had some frustrations today, lol and it got worse when I started working on the printer.  Back to the drawing board, literally!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iDnUtFgiQgU

Nate
This is awesome and troubling at the same time.  I couldn't imagine maintaining a fleet like that.  Maybe someday there will be a VIC bobbin factory just like this. :cool:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VcSR2CFxnAU&

firepinto

RE: RepRap Self Replicating 3D Prototyping Printer
« Reply #244, on April 12th, 2012, 09:05 PM »Last edited on April 12th, 2012, 09:05 PM by firepinto
Quote from Jeff Nading on April 12th, 2012, 08:26 PM
Quote from firepinto on April 12th, 2012, 06:28 PM
Very good Nate,:cool: I think you would like the belt setup, also get better quality prints and change the direction of the y axis stepper back to the original:D.
I printed this out it is sooo cool.
Thanks Jeff,
I'm already working on a belt drive. :D
http://open-source-energy.org/?tid=430&pid=4251#pid4251

I had enough with filing gear teeth. lol  This pulley has even more torque than the gear drive.  You could even stack these I bet!  

Nate

Jeff Nading

RE: RepRap Self Replicating 3D Prototyping Printer
« Reply #245, on April 13th, 2012, 06:17 AM »
Quote from firepinto on April 12th, 2012, 09:05 PM
Quote from Jeff Nading on April 12th, 2012, 08:26 PM
Quote from firepinto on April 12th, 2012, 06:28 PM
Very good Nate,:cool: I think you would like the belt setup, also get better quality prints and change the direction of the y axis stepper back to the original:D.
I printed this out it is sooo cool.
Thanks Jeff,
I'm already working on a belt drive. :D
http://open-source-energy.org/?tid=430&pid=4251#pid4251

I had enough with filing gear teeth. lol  This pulley has even more torque than the gear drive.  You could even stack these I bet!  

Nate
Wow Nate the gear drive was cool, but the belt drive is awesome and cool :cool::D:P:cool::P wow. That's what I,m talking about, :cool::cool::cool:.