LET'S BUILD A NEW WATER-POWERED CAR?

ethospete

LET'S BUILD A NEW WATER-POWERED CAR?
« on October 9th, 2012, 08:01 PM »
LET'S BUILD A NEW WATER-POWERED CAR?

Daniel Dingel said that 20 litres per minute was enough to run his car at 70kmh and that it consumed 1 litre of water to drive for one hour.

So my theory is the Punch 110v cell produces up to 20 - 25 litres per minute which should be more then enough:

"55 plate 120v hydrogen hho generator capable of over 20 LPM - 25 lpm max."

http://www.punchhho.com/

(I have no affiliation with them just, as I said, they are the best units I've found so far and they delivered as promised).

So how to run a 120v cell in a car..? - 5000 Watt Continuous/10,000 Watt Peak Power Inverter - http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-...96706.html

My theory is that 5kw @ 120v should be enough power to run the Punch cell from a 12v supply, albeit with a pretty heavy current draw, so I will run it from some additional heavy duty truck batteries. (5000 Watt inverter draws 417 Amps from the 12 V supply (Battery).



Add an electrolyte solution of Ammonium Chloride as it is meant to work just as well as KOH which is normally used but without causing any heat as most units running on KOH have a problem with over heating after the unit has been running for a while and it also helps to reduce scale buildup.

Obviously the above setup is far from ideal but hopefully will give 'proof of concept' that it is possible to run a car on ordinary tap water. Once it is up and running, will then need to add some additional heavy duty alternators to cope with the heavy current draw.

Last hurdle I envisage is negating the waste spark - I've seen one way of doing it by adding a hall-effect sensor and magnet on the camshaft to effectively make a new ignition timing system... but I am still thinking that there has to be a simpler way..?

Any additional thoughts, ideas or input gratefully received...  

Russ is already running the pulse-motor build-off - so how about also running a water-powered car build-off based on the above spec...? Any takers...?  

All the best

ethospete...

FaradayEZ

RE: LET'S BUILD A NEW WATER-POWERED CAR?
« Reply #1, on October 10th, 2012, 12:17 AM »Last edited on October 10th, 2012, 12:52 AM by FaradayEZ
Quote from ethospete on October 9th, 2012, 08:01 PM
LET'S BUILD A NEW WATER-POWERED CAR?

Daniel Dingel said that 20 litres per minute was enough to run his car at 70kmh and that it consumed 1 litre of water to drive for one hour.

So my theory is the Punch 110v cell produces up to 20 - 25 litres per minute which should be more then enough:

"55 plate 120v hydrogen hho generator capable of over 20 LPM - 25 lpm max."

http://www.punchhho.com/

(I have no affiliation with them just, as I said, they are the best units I've found so far and they delivered as promised).

So how to run a 120v cell in a car..? - 5000 Watt Continuous/10,000 Watt Peak Power Inverter - http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-...96706.html

My theory is that 5kw @ 120v should be enough power to run the Punch cell from a 12v supply, albeit with a pretty heavy current draw, so I will run it from some additional heavy duty truck batteries. (5000 Watt inverter draws 417 Amps from the 12 V supply (Battery).


Add an electrolyte solution of Ammonium Chloride as it is meant to work just as well as KOH which is normally used but without causing any heat as most units running on KOH have a problem with over heating after the unit has been running for a while and it also helps to reduce scale buildup.

Obviously the above setup is far from ideal but hopefully will give 'proof of concept' that it is possible to run a car on ordinary tap water. Once it is up and running, will then need to add some additional heavy duty alternators to cope with the heavy current draw.

Last hurdle I envisage is negating the waste spark - I've seen one way of doing it by adding a hall-effect sensor and magnet on the camshaft to effectively make a new ignition timing system... but I am still thinking that there has to be a simpler way..?

Any additional thoughts, ideas or input gratefully received...  

Russ is already running the pulse-motor build-off - so how about also running a water-powered car build-off based on the above spec...? Any takers...?  

All the best

ethospete...
Hi Pete, nice initiative!

One way you could bypass the timing issues is by altering the composition of the gas input.
Pure HHO is like running an engine on nitro?
Get some watermoisture into the mix, by using a diffuser, there are different types.

This has several benefits..

1- It slows down the burnspeed so you hardly have to change the sparktiming
2- The waste spark is no issue then
3- You can make due with lesser amount of HHO
4- The engine runs cooler


Success :) , are you installing it yourself?

P.S.
Are the plates conditioned in the HHO cell?
I see 3 bubblers, but did there come some flash arrestors with these items?
Do you have an injection engine or carburator?











Lynx

RE: LET'S BUILD A NEW WATER-POWERED CAR?
« Reply #2, on October 10th, 2012, 02:48 AM »
Are there any cost mileage calculated for this?
The electrolyte would be the biggest variable cost the way I see it, it would be nice to see some comparison
with fossile based fuel costs.
The inverter, electrolyzer, etc etc, they're just an initial cost, after that it's the variable costs that's the thing :cool:

FaradayEZ

RE: LET'S BUILD A NEW WATER-POWERED CAR?
« Reply #3, on October 10th, 2012, 05:44 AM »Last edited on October 10th, 2012, 05:45 AM by FaradayEZ
Quote from Lynx on October 10th, 2012, 02:48 AM
Are there any cost mileage calculated for this?
The electrolyte would be the biggest variable cost the way I see it, it would be nice to see some comparison
with fossile based fuel costs.
The inverter, electrolyzer, etc etc, they're just an initial cost, after that it's the variable costs that's the thing :cool:
The elctrolyte is water and the salts..the salts stay in...one just poors in new water (or has a system were it tops of on it own)

So the costs are fossil fuel against water and the initial conversion plus extra electricity made by the car.

If you drive to work and back daily lets say 80 km times 5 is 400 km. A liter petrol is 1,70 euro and your big car runs 10 km on the liter. Then you spend 40 times 1,70 is 68 euro's weekly.

Lets say the conversion costs 680 euro's...you'll start saving 68 euro's a week after 10 weeks... and pooring the water in weekly is 0,0,001 ct or zero when you use rainwater.

You put the savings in the bank at 3% interest 3536 savings yearly plus interest..

Then you go carpooling and ask 40 euro a week 2 persons...4160

Then you start a converting business in your family.....

Then you do a truck at a company..then you branche out

Ow and then you die from the stress :dodgy:













Lynx

RE: LET'S BUILD A NEW WATER-POWERED CAR?
« Reply #4, on October 10th, 2012, 08:37 AM »
Quote from FaradayEZ on October 10th, 2012, 05:44 AM
Quote from Lynx on October 10th, 2012, 02:48 AM
Are there any cost mileage calculated for this?
The electrolyte would be the biggest variable cost the way I see it, it would be nice to see some comparison
with fossile based fuel costs.
The inverter, electrolyzer, etc etc, they're just an initial cost, after that it's the variable costs that's the thing :cool:
The elctrolyte is water and the salts..the salts stay in...one just poors in new water (or has a system were it tops of on it own)
Well if that's the case, how come not every god damn car there is on this planet is
driving around using this as a power source, if the electrolyte only acts as a
catalyst and isn't consumed at all in the process?

Which salts are you referring to btw?
Table salt gives sodium in the electrolysis process, which on the other hand turns
into hydrogen when it meets the water, but you also get chloride gas, which is a
very nasty poisonous gas, something you just don't want to have at all.

ethospete

RE: LET'S BUILD A NEW WATER-POWERED CAR?
« Reply #5, on October 10th, 2012, 10:16 AM »
Many thanks guys for the interest and feedback...
Quote
Well if that's the case, how come not every god ***** car there is on this planet is
driving around using this as a power source, if the electrolyte only acts as a
catalyst and isn't consumed at all in the process?
Very good question and it's simply because the powers that be need to keep everyone using fossil fuels. We could have all had water-powered cars back in 1968 when Daniel Dingel converted his first car to run on water... But the IMF and the World Bank who control everything banned him from releasing the technology and gave him $1 million to 'continue his research' but never reveal his secrets.

The three larger green units on the left are heavy-duty flashback arrestors and are not bubblers... I'll make a bubbler to go after the main water supply tank. There are three smaller inline flashback arrestors to the right of the green ones but these are only rated at 10 lpm gas flow rate. So belt and braces for flashback security - if you've ever ignited HHO gas you'll know exactly why. So I'm going to fit the three large ones after the main bubbler and then have 3 gas supply lines with the three small units at the far end. You can't really see it very well but the main water tank is at the back right of the photo behind the hho cell.

For this test I don't really care what it looks like, I just want to prove that it is possible. So the plan is to put everything in the boot of the car at the back and then run the hho gas to the engine at the front.

The donor car is a very old fiat with a carburettor and it had already been converted to run on LPG. I chose this as it is already used to running on gas so taking the path of least resistance as I thought that this should make it easier to convert.

From all my research I've opted for Ammonium Chloride as the electrolyte as I mentioned and this is cheap as chips and as FaradayEZ correctly states once the system is filled you should then only need to continue to add water as you shouldn't lose any of the salts.

The cell is brand new and so it may very well need conditioning first.

Once it's up and running we can then experiment with adding water vapour and exhaust gasses as FaradayEZ also suggests and as Russ had started doing with his generator set running on bottled hydrogen.

I still think we may have a problem with the waste spark if we don't eliminate it as normally an engine fires before top-dead-centre and running on hho gas you need to advance the timing so it is firing after top-dead-centre which then means the waste spark can fire when the inlet valve is open which can cause flashbacks. Only testing will give us the answers and another reason for belt and braces with two sets of flashback arrestors. i.e. if an engine is normally running 8 degrees before top-dead-centre for hho gas start about 8 degrees after top-dead-centre and then fine tune it by ear to where you can hear it is running the smoothest.

The other challenge I envisage will be how to regulate the hho supply as it will obviously need far more gas when driving along than when it is just ticking over and idling. But we can cross that bridge when we get that far...  :)  And another possible reason for having the three separate lines.

I'll be working on the conversion - I'm a bit out of practice as I've not been on the spanners for many years but originally I was a car mechanic for 15 years so I have a pretty good working knowledge of engines and their electrics.

I'll post some more photos and/or a video as things progress... :)

All the very best

ethospete...

FaradayEZ

RE: LET'S BUILD A NEW WATER-POWERED CAR?
« Reply #6, on October 10th, 2012, 10:25 AM »Last edited on October 10th, 2012, 11:26 AM by FaradayEZ
Quote from Lynx on October 10th, 2012, 08:37 AM
Quote from FaradayEZ on October 10th, 2012, 05:44 AM
Quote from Lynx on October 10th, 2012, 02:48 AM
Are there any cost mileage calculated for this?
The electrolyte would be the biggest variable cost the way I see it, it would be nice to see some comparison
with fossile based fuel costs.
The inverter, electrolyzer, etc etc, they're just an initial cost, after that it's the variable costs that's the thing :cool:
The elctrolyte is water and the salts..the salts stay in...one just poors in new water (or has a system were it tops of on it own)
Well if that's the case, how come not every god ***** car there is on this planet is driving around using this as a power source, if the electrolyte only acts as a
catalyst and isn't consumed at all in the process?

Which salts are you referring to btw?
Table salt gives sodium in the electrolysis process, which on the other hand turns
into hydrogen when it meets the water, but you also get chloride gas, which is a
very nasty poisonous gas, something you just don't want to have at all.
Because it never was easy to get enough HHO through electrolisis, the amount of electricity and amount of HHO wasn't prefferable. But now they try to use the right frequencies and mix ac and dc and try to resonate the cells etc.; they sometimes get closer to the break even point or over it.

In the famous new energy file of patrick kelly he mentions the salts and to be careful with them.

But i think a lot of homebuilders are trying this out.






Quote from ethospete on October 10th, 2012, 10:16 AM
Many thanks guys for the interest and feedback...

The donor car is a very old fiat with a carburettor and it had already been converted to run on LPG. I chose this as it is already used to running on gas so taking the path of least resistance as I thought that this should make it easier to convert.

Hmm..if you haven't ripped the gassystem out yet... then why not use it totally?
Use the tank as a buffer...so when you're at a stoplight..you still can fill the tank by using the powercontrol. Maybe just set the control onto the pressure meter..that it always will fill up till a small amount of pressure like 2 bar (cause HHO you may not pressurize highly)

The cell is brand new and so it may very well need conditioning first.

Yes, i'd say do this in your "normal workshop" and don't you need a pump to drive the water through the dry cell and collect the HHO a bit faster? So the whole setup to test and optimize the cell before you install is still a pretty road ahead first.

And yes, the sparktiming will be an issue if you first want to use HHO alone. And i can't tell you how much % of moisture will make HHO plus H2O into the burnspeed of LPG. If i had to find out i had to search for calculations but eventually try to make a practical setup where i would burn the different gases in some way. And even inside the car have 2 valves to mix HHO and H2O if needed while driving.

After you find a way to eliminate the waste spark, i would also recommend to check out those new sparkplugs and heavier ignition systems they play around with on youtube. Especially when you decide to add moisture.

Using exhaust gases is like the geet-pantone engine, although Meyer also used it.


The other challenge I envisage will be how to regulate the hho supply as it will obviously need far more gas when driving along than when it is just ticking over and idling. But we can cross that bridge when we get that far...  :)  And another possible reason for having the three separate lines.

The guys in this video use the old LPG system i think.
http://youtu.be/yjqkHhWUKOU  but you have seen this video already

I'll be working on the conversion - I'm a bit out of practice as I've not been on the spanners for many years but originally I was a car mechanic for 15 years so I have a pretty good working knowledge of engines and their electrics.

AHH :D  and i thought you were the slick businessman.. LOL

I'll post some more photos and/or a video as things progress... :)

Please do and also the difficulties you encounter

All the very best

ethospete...
Happy tinkeringss...

P.s. I think you have enough salt there for 20 car conversions?... ;)


ethospete

RE: LET'S BUILD A NEW WATER-POWERED CAR?
« Reply #7, on October 13th, 2012, 01:11 PM »
Quote from FaradayEZ on October 10th, 2012, 10:25 AM
Hmm..if you haven't ripped the gassystem out yet... then why not use it totally?
Use the tank as a buffer...so when you're at a stoplight..you still can fill the tank by using the powercontrol. Maybe just set the control onto the pressure meter..that it always will fill up till a small amount of pressure like 2 bar (cause HHO you may not pressurize highly)
Thanks for all the great feedback EZ... and yes it's still running on LPG at the moment so that all works.

They never had LPG back in my days as a mechanic so I've absolutely no experience with LPG whatsoever.

If I just connect the HHO output to the LPG gas tank and start filling it up like that you think that will be the best idea to start with..?

What about flashbacks..? As HHO is very explosive and I don't want to blow the whole system up...  lol   :)

>>>P.s. I think you have enough salt there for 20 car conversions?... ;)

Yes, I decided to get plenty... :)  But if the water system is 10 litres then I'll need 1kg of salts for a 10% solution correct...? 20% solution 2kg..?

Thanks for the great link to the video of the one in the states already running on water -


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjqkHhWUKOU

- No, I hadn't seen it before... So hopefully this one will be the first one in Europe then...  :)

Planning to get started on Monday...

All the best

ethospete...

FaradayEZ

RE: LET'S BUILD A NEW WATER-POWERED CAR?
« Reply #8, on October 13th, 2012, 04:31 PM »Last edited on October 13th, 2012, 06:14 PM by FaradayEZ
Quote from ethospete on October 13th, 2012, 01:11 PM
Quote from FaradayEZ on October 10th, 2012, 10:25 AM
Hmm..if you haven't ripped the gassystem out yet... then why not use it totally?
Use the tank as a buffer...so when you're at a stoplight..you still can fill the tank by using the powercontrol. Maybe just set the control onto the pressure meter..that it always will fill up till a small amount of pressure like 2 bar (cause HHO you may not pressurize highly)
Thanks for all the great feedback EZ... and yes it's still running on LPG at the moment so that all works.

They never had LPG back in my days as a mechanic so I've absolutely no experience with LPG whatsoever.

If I just connect the HHO output to the LPG gas tank and start filling it up like that you think that will be the best idea to start with..?

What about flashbacks..? As HHO is very explosive and I don't want to blow the whole system up...  lol   :)

Yes, flashback control you need and also adjusting the timing, but further on i don't know. So maybe find a professional conversion shop and ask them if your on the right path like this.


>>>P.s. I think you have enough salt there for 20 car conversions?... ;)

Yes, I decided to get plenty... :)  But if the water system is 10 litres then I'll need 1kg of salts for a 10% solution correct...? 20% solution 2kg..?

Ahh that much ay? But sometimes i read % weight ratio..so then its 9 plus 1 kilo? But using too much salt deminishes the workings, so be careful..or test a lot.


Thanks for the great link to the video of the one in the states already running on water -


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjqkHhWUKOU

- No, I hadn't seen it before... So hopefully this one will be the first one in Europe then...  :)

Hmm i was hoping there would be already a whole lot driving with it...:s

Planning to get started on Monday...

All the best

ethospete...
Hmm i guess 55 liters pm for 55 amps is a con...

http://peswiki.com/index.php/Directory:_Hydrogen_Hog_by_Future_Energy_Concepts,_Inc



Matt Watts

RE: LET'S BUILD A NEW WATER-POWERED CAR?
« Reply #9, on October 13th, 2012, 11:59 PM »Last edited on October 14th, 2012, 12:07 AM by Matt Watts
Yes, I read that too.  Ol' Fast Freddie skipped town.

I think the Punch units are claiming 1 LpM out for every 10 amps in.  So their little seven plate unit designed for cars, running at about 14 volt...  That's 140 watts per liter per minute.  Still pretty good without any fancy resonance circuitry.  I don't know about pressure though.  Don't think I would push a Punch unit over about 10 psi--seems to me the sides would bulge out and break.

The whole cell pressure thing bugs me a little bit.  Don't have any actual data on production rate versus pressure.  I would think it is pretty linear.  I ran my cell up to 10 psi once and got a little nervous that if something were to crack, hit a wire and spark, bad things would follow.

Also, don't really have good data on how much HHO an engine would consume and at what pressure it would consume it at.  If you hooked HHO to a propane carburation system, I think the final regulator is only about 3 to 4 psi, so anything higher than that should be sufficient.

Anybody tried loading a 10HP engine to 80% and see what kind of HHO supply is needed to sustain that rate?  Eight horsepower translates to roughly 6000 watts, so if you could actually hit unity that would be 6000/140 or 43 LpM of fuel.  Seems a little high but maybe it's correct.  Check my numbers.  You probably would need to add water vapor to bring the timing curve back into specs, so maybe by doing that you could get away with much less HHO.

I should get me a cheap little 1kW portable generator I can tear into and just see how many orders of magnitude out I am trying to close loop the thing with HHO.  I haven't done that yet because I don't have a Stanley Meyer water fuel cell that works worth a darn.  :(

FaradayEZ

RE: LET'S BUILD A NEW WATER-POWERED CAR?
« Reply #10, on October 14th, 2012, 04:40 AM »Last edited on October 14th, 2012, 04:54 AM by FaradayEZ
Some stuff from someone who defends Fast Freddy....????
also at
http://pesn.com/2011/06/15/9501847_Eric_Hansens_Water_Fuel_Hydroxy_Manifesto/


Installation Considerations

 The reason I used the term master mechanic, is because the installation of these systems requires various modifications on different engines, to overcome a few technical issues. Let me tell you about the issues you will face in retrofitting your engine with one of these fuel systems, and how to overcome them.

 First, let's compare the fuels we are swapping. One big difference is the octane rating, which refers to the fuel's ability to self-ignite under pressure, as well as its rate of burn. Today's gasoline at the pump ranges from between 87 octane for sluggish performance and 93 octane for high performance. Diesel actually has an even lower octane rating, because it self-combusts easily under heat and pressure. Aviation fuels have much higher octane ratings, because they can withstand more heat and pressure before they self-ignite. The engine in your car or pickup was designed to use a liquid fuel with an octane rating between 87 and 93. Hydrogen by itself has a rating of 130, but when it is exactly in stoichiometric ratio (proportionally burnt with oxygen to combine and make water) the burn rate is increased even further... over 135 at least.

 We could actually utilize a higher compression ratio for even further horsepower and economy gains. Hydroxy is extremely efficient for an engine. Gasoline however, burns so slow, that your engine cylinders have to fire long before they get to the top of the compression stroke, to allow enough time for the combustion process to take place within the cylinder. The burning of the fuel actually taking place, needs enough time to fully expand, enough time to create pressure in the cylinder, and enough time for the thrust stroke. Hydroxy gas burns with over 2 and 1/2 times the power and speed of gasoline, so the first and foremost issue is the spark timing system on your engine. Detonating the hydroxy gasses too soon could result in catastrophic failure of your engine. So the first obstacle for converting your engine to run on hydroxy gas, is to modify the spark timing on your vehicle. There has been a lot of confusion out there as how to achieve this. As an ex-career mechanic, I can tell you exactly how to do this, so pay special attention.

 Older points style and non ECU computer engines are easy. You can just turn the distributor wherever you want, in this case right at TDC (top dead center), is probably a good point to begin our timing curve. It's as simple as that.

 However, as you know, today's engines are more sophisticated, and there are three basic levels, which are OBD 1, 2, and 3. OBD refers to the on-board diagnostics of the computer system controlling the engine in your vehicle. The computer controls the timing now, and there have been several issues arising in the hydroxy groups on how to keep this darn computer from blowing up your engine when you switch to pure Hydroxy. In other words, we need to prevent the computer from telling the plugs to fire too early, changing the spark timing to something you don't want.

 OBD1 vehicles, or vehicles made between 1991 and 1995 have a wire which goes to the distributor, which sends the signal for the distributor to advance the timing. On a GM it's the tan wire with a black stripe, or it just looks brown and black when it's old and greasy. Usually, there is a plastic quick-disconnect near the distributor, or under the dash near the computer. This is the wire a mechanic disconnects to set your timing for a tune up or repair job of any kind. If you just unplug this wire, and set your timing to TDC, the job is done on an OBD1 vehicle. Again, Prior to computer controlled vehicles, you only need to turn the distributor to the appropriate point. But on OBD 2 and 3 vehicles, where there is no handy little wire to disable the advance, the situation changes, and we need a new approach. The computer completely controls all the advance, and is normally set using a scanner. On a GM Vortec 350 for instance, the base timing is already at 0 degrees at TDC plus or minus two degrees. It's already ideal, but since the computer is in control, it will fire somewhere between 18 and 22 degrees before top dead center, which is no good.

 There are a myriad of sensors your computer constantly monitors, to determine what the best timing or firing point is. So in the hydroxy groups, they are using several different approaches trying to modify or trick the computer into firing later. They use Oxygen sensor enhancers, and EFIE's or electronic fuel injection enhancers to send a false signal to the computer, essentially tricking it to lean out and or fire at a later point. This may work fine for boosters which still rely on gasoline, but does not even come close to where you need to be to utilize 100% hydroxy gas.

 In order to do that, we need to simply  reprogram the computer to fire where we want. How do you do that you say? Simple, there are kits available to do just that very thing. You can actually re-flash your computer's main chip instructions. Racers of all kinds use these systems to reprogram these computers every day. If you know what you are doing, it only takes about 2 1/2 minutes. Most of these kits come with preset codes, with maybe five modes of performance to choose from, and you would choose one of those sets of codes to reflash your chip with. But we need control of the code ourselves, and there are only a rare few of reprogramming kits with the power, or option to do so; but they ARE out there, and right now I am working with one called HP Tuner, like Horse-Power Tuner.

 These kits are available through summit racing equipment online. Depending on what you need and want, they range between 400 and 600 dollars. A serious Hydroxy installer would need to get a few kits that cover different makes in order to cover as many brands as possible. Also, keep in mind that these were designed for racers using V8 engines, so don't expect to find a HP Tuner kit for your little Geo Metro, or your Volkswagen Diesel. Your fuel will be free now, so why would you even bother with a little econo-box rice grinder, when you could be driving with the power, luxury, and safety of a much larger vehicle.

 I must warn you, these kits are powerful tools. If you don't know what you are doing, you are likely to end up doing serious damage to your engine. I strongly suggest getting the 250 dollar HP Tuner training video to learn how to use these systems correctly. With over three hundred million people in the US, and only eight hundred thousand auto mechanics, that's less than 1/3 of one percent of the population who work on cars professionally. Out of those, there are nine different areas of certification in automechanics. Obviously, you don't want a steering and break specialist installing an unfamiliar fuel system, and reprogramming your computer.  Make sure the mechanic is either a Master technician, certified in all nine areas, or at least has the  performance, fuel, and emission systems certifications needed to understand what he or she is doing. In my time as an automotive technician, I've found that most people know little more than how to check the fluids. When they open the hood of their car, it's like seeing a Borg ship for the first time. They're just lost.

 On another note, let's say you are a somewhat decent mechanic, hate computers, and your more of a nuts and bolts kinda guy; or you have a carburetor engine instead of fuel injection, and want to use this system on your vehicle -- and this applies to any size engine as far as fuel supply goes -- you can use a propane carburetor setup, which was designed to handle gasses just like we are using. As long as you have the ability to adjust the timing, a propane carburetor system will work excellent, and are readily available in several places online. They are a fairly easy shoe-in because the Freddy unit, or Meyer style unit operates even better under pressure, and comes with a recommended operational pressure of 55 to 60 PSI. This is nice, because you can pipe that right to the precarb regulator, which reduces the pressure to between 3 and 4 PSI. It is further reduced at the carb to only eight ounces of pressure or 1/2 a PSI, where it operates at.

 If computers don't scare you, you're a knowledgeable automotive technician, and money is no object, I recommend a professional aftermarket port fuel injection system. It enables you to completely program every aspect of control within the engine, and use 10 to one or 12 to one compression pistons, so you can fully utilize the power available within a 135 octane fuel. But with the amount of power and friction, you might also want to add an under piston cooling system to keep the top of your piston cool, and keep everything extra lubricated around the combustion chamber for longevity and durability.  If you do all this, you will have one bad mother engine running on nothing but pure water!

 Oh, and by the way, even if you don't get all the fancy stuff, you'll notice a substantial horsepower increase anyway, because hydroxy gas has over 2 1/2 times the power of gasoline. So watch out when you step on the gas pedal for the first time to pull out on the street. You can easily spin your tires not even trying to, because it takes less pedal to do the same job.

 I'm not telling you to put a 6,000 dollar, state of the art fuel system in your 1200 dollar Aerostar, so some people might just want to stick with a booster kit for now. This can start saving you money right away. It also has much less hassle and expense than trying to redesign your entire fuel system. There are a number of different systems to choose from depending on what engine size you have, and how much power can be safely taken from your electrical system. I've heard estimates from 20% fuel savings, all the way up to 100%, or doubling their mileage with some of these systems. They also clean up your exhaust dramatically. Some work so good that the analyzers at the emissions check station will flunk your vehicle, saying there is a leak in your exhaust, because it's not detecting enough carbon! In a case like that, you would want to disconnect the power to the unit to take the test.

 But getting back to the Freddy Cell by Future Energy Concepts, it is clear some people look at the $5,500 price tag and complain that it is high. I consider it is cheap, and I'll tell you why. One is the cost of the materials used in the unit. Stainless steel isn't cheap. Neither is the machining process required to mill these parts to exacting standards. The electronics, wires, and housing are all factors as well. Besides, how much gasoline do you actually buy in a year? I own a one ton Chevy, and spend over 100 dollars a week pumping crude into my 32 gallon tank. So in my case it would pay for itself the first year.

 Maybe you have several vehicles, but only drive one at a time. If you cannot afford a unit for each vehicle and one for home power generation, there is a potential solution. Alter all of them to utilize the unit, and take the unit with you wherever you go. You can transfer it to whatever vehicle you are driving at the time. Using a quick disconnect, you could just pop off the pressure line, unplug the PWM, and bring it inside to power your home generation unit. Stick it on your Winnabego and start touring the country. Put it on your boat and circle the globe. You will have to come up with other excuses to stop at the gas station, like chips and sodas or something (such as a potty stop [unless you want to put that in your engine as well]).

 Another question I see arising is about backflash, or backfiring, as well as storage of hydrogen. With the booster systems you definitely need a check valve to prevent any fire from traveling up your intake, and straight into your unit. It is also needed to prevent any water from traveling through the hydroxy supply line, right into your engine. That is what the bubbler is for. It simply feeds the hydrogen gas through water, making it bubble up to the top, and continue into the intake of your engine after going through a check valve, which prevents the backflash from the other direction.

 With Freddy's unit, there isn't any chance of backflash into the unit, because it uses your vehicles existing injector system. There's no way that the flash, if any, could travel up backwards through the injector. It only needs a water trap to prevent the water from reaching the injectors.

 As for your hydrogen blowing up, there is no storage of hydrogen besides what is created in the unit. There is no storage tank. All the hydroxy gas is created as you need it. That's what on-demand means, and that's why it is so important for everyone to jump on this. If our holier than thou government has anything to do with this, they'll have you going to the pump to fill a tank with hydrogen, where they can tax the heck out of you. That's what's so utterly important about keeping this open-source. That's why there aren't any new patents being filed on this. Like Freddy said, our children and grandchildren can enjoy the benefits of our labor, and not have to worry about fuel and electric bills. Two of the biggest lies in the world, created to generate money for dear old Uncle Sam.

 In case you didn't know, the free energy cover-ups began with the founding of our great nation, and continue to this day. You have been lied to about a great many things. A very large percentage of what we're taught in school is geared to keep you brainwashed into believing their lies about history, science, and even religion. As you know, history is written by the victor. How many book burnings, genocides, and taxes does it take before you wake up and realize the truth? You are under control, and you have no rights. Under the Patriot Act, they can call you a terrorist, take you away, lock you up forever, and not have to show any evidence. Congress just approved another four year extension of this, by the way. Our government does not care about us!

 I've also got something to say concerning people who have hang-ups about Freddy. I actually saw someone comment in the hydroxy group, that he was not sure if he could trust a gun-toting Christian. Get over it people, if you don't trust proof, than I just don't know what to tell you. Are you still going to be pumping gas while all your friends are driving water-cars because the inventor was afraid for his life and legally carried a gun?

 Even on PESN they complain that Freddy was not sharing the plans like he said, but absolutely all of what I have told you tonight is online, and I know it is because I live in a remote area, and the internet has been my only connection to the outside world for the last 8 years. He even released a solid works CAD design layout of the unit, in complete 3-D, which actually plays like a video to give you an ultimate view of the production unit, as well as the exact dimensions of every single piece. I got this right off yahoo groups Freddy cell study group, right where he said it would be. But I can tell you right now, you're not going to be able to make that unit in your garage unless you happen to have a machine shop in your garage, next to your welder and your pipe cutter, and your frequency analyzer, that's across from your electronics bench, where you'll be developing your PWM and soldering micro circuitry. In my opinion, $5,500 bucks is a steal of a deal.

 There are pipe kits available at  hydrogengarage.com, for around 400 bucks, as well as various PWM's for around 160. Don't attempt to use the pool filter housing with this, they're not suitable to take the heat and pressure cycles, and will eventually crack and fail. Black abs pipe or something else made to take the abuse would be better. There are a number of things to try…Good luck with that.


So realize this guy is pretty bias..but he also says things i can agree on. As long as you play it save...spark arrestors and no high pressure i think you can take some of his way of approaching this.

The 100% way is still a bit out of our reach, but i think also that HHO plus H2Odamp is a 100% way..cause both are non polluting and the second one is even more free.... a bit free plus a lot free still adds up as decently free?   ;)





FaradayEZ

RE: LET'S BUILD A NEW WATER-POWERED CAR?
« Reply #11, on October 14th, 2012, 05:41 AM »
Quote from Dog-One on October 13th, 2012, 11:59 PM
Yes, I read that too.  Ol' Fast Freddie skipped town.

I think the Punch units are claiming 1 LpM out for every 10 amps in.  So their little seven plate unit designed for cars, running at about 14 volt...  That's 140 watts per liter per minute.  Still pretty good without any fancy resonance circuitry.  I don't know about pressure though.  Don't think I would push a Punch unit over about 10 psi--seems to me the sides would bulge out and break.

The whole cell pressure thing bugs me a little bit.  Don't have any actual data on production rate versus pressure.  I would think it is pretty linear.  I ran my cell up to 10 psi once and got a little nervous that if something were to crack, hit a wire and spark, bad things would follow.

Also, don't really have good data on how much HHO an engine would consume and at what pressure it would consume it at.  If you hooked HHO to a propane carburation system, I think the final regulator is only about 3 to 4 psi, so anything higher than that should be sufficient.

Anybody tried loading a 10HP engine to 80% and see what kind of HHO supply is needed to sustain that rate?  Eight horsepower translates to roughly 6000 watts, so if you could actually hit unity that would be 6000/140 or 43 LpM of fuel.  Seems a little high but maybe it's correct.  Check my numbers.  You probably would need to add water vapor to bring the timing curve back into specs, so maybe by doing that you could get away with much less HHO.

First you have to know how much watts are in a liter of HHO..it may cost 140 to produce it..but how much does it deliver?
Its like also when you would say...the engine has 1600 cc and goes by rpm 3000..for 1 rpm we need 2 cylinders to combuste? so 800cc HHO is used per rpm?
800 * 3000 = 2.400.000 cc / 1000 = 2400 liters per minute..hahaha

I've seen a new thread where we can put these kind of questions, also about conversions.



I should get me a cheap little 1kW portable generator I can tear into and just see how many orders of magnitude out I am trying to close loop the thing with HHO.  I haven't done that yet because I don't have a Stanley Meyer water fuel cell that works worth a darn.  :(

(on optimizing HHO production)

If water would resonate its bindings at say 4.4688 Mhz, one should make a resonating cell within the harmonics of this number. Say you have a piece of pipe of 316L..you put it on a fishing wire and hit it with a little hammer...you capture the sound with your computer and analyze the frequency. Lets say its 432 KHz
You divide the 2 numbers and get 10.34444/
So the nearest harmonic is 10 times, is 446,88 KHz
So you shorten the pipe till its 446,88 KHz

Your second pipe you give the same own frequency.

Now you have a system where if you input any harmonic frequency rate of current or volts or pulse and stop and pulse again... it will want to tune in to the frequency where the binding in between HH and O will resonate and start to loosen.

Uhhm the combination of these 2 factors.... using the frequency of the HH-O binding and using the own frequency of the pipe in the HHO cell is something i haven't read yet by any others. But as it is blindly obvious to me i guess there must have been someone already...and if not then i call it the EZ approach..LOL (c)



Yes, freely usable of course and no liabillities taken :P

ethospete

RE: LET'S BUILD A NEW WATER-POWERED CAR?
« Reply #12, on October 14th, 2012, 12:57 PM »Last edited on October 14th, 2012, 01:23 PM by ethospete
Hi Peter,
 
   Regards your new forum thread: Do you want to communicate and discuss what you do with that equipment? I found this about Li-6-Deuteride.

http://www.physicsforums.com/showthread.php?t=320107
 
Alles Gute
Michael

Hi Michael

Many thanks for the information about Li-6-Deuteride and I'll post it on the forum. Yes, the plan is to discuss everything about the project here and I'll be posting progress updates etc. Feel free to add your further comments there as well.

All the best

Pete...
SKU: 561018
Weight: 4 lbs 7 ozs
Metal Hydride hydrogen storage container. 220 standard liters of hydrogen storage.

http://www.fuelcellstore.com/en/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=465&idcategory=108



ethospete

RE: LET'S BUILD A NEW WATER-POWERED CAR?
« Reply #13, on October 14th, 2012, 02:08 PM »Last edited on October 14th, 2012, 02:13 PM by ethospete
Quote from Dog-One on October 13th, 2012, 11:59 PM
I think the Punch units are claiming 1 LpM out for every 10 amps in.  So their little seven plate unit designed for cars, running at about 14 volt...  That's 140 watts per liter per minute.  Still pretty good without any fancy resonance circuitry.  I don't know about pressure though.  Don't think I would push a Punch unit over about 10 psi--seems to me the sides would bulge out and break.
Many thanks for the input... All I've got to go on is Daniel Dingel said his unit was producing 20 litres per minute and his system didn't appear as if it was pressurised at all. He controlled acceleration with a series of vacuum pipes by the gear shift - you put your finger over the pipes to make the car accelerate and go faster.

As you'll have seen, my plans to use their 110V home unit in a car as that produces 20 litres per minute plus.

All the best

ethospete...

Quote from FaradayEZ on October 13th, 2012, 04:31 PM
Ahh that much ay? But sometimes i read % weight ratio..so then its 9 plus 1 kilo? But using too much salt diminishes the workings, so be careful..or test a lot.
Thanks EZ for all the great input, much appreciated... I had been wondering about that as well and think you are correct i.e. 9 litres of water + 1kg salts should give a 10% solution. I'll start with a 10% solution made to that ratio and see how it works like that and then go from there.

Thanks again

ethospete...

FaradayEZ

RE: LET'S BUILD A NEW WATER-POWERED CAR?
« Reply #14, on October 14th, 2012, 11:37 PM »Last edited on October 15th, 2012, 10:10 PM by FaradayEZ
Quote from ethospete on October 14th, 2012, 12:57 PM
Hi Peter,
 
   Regards your new forum thread: Do you want to communicate and discuss what you do with that equipment? I found this about Li-6-Deuteride.

http://www.physicsforums.com/showthread.php?t=320107
 
Alles Gute
Michael

Hi Michael

Many thanks for the information about Li-6-Deuteride and I'll post it on the forum. Yes, the plan is to discuss everything about the project here and I'll be posting progress updates etc. Feel free to add your further comments there as well.

All the best

Pete...

SKU: 561018
Weight: 4 lbs 7 ozs
Metal Hydride hydrogen storage container. 220 standard liters of hydrogen storage.

http://www.fuelcellstore.com/en/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=465&idcategory=108
I saw a vid where some american uses 3 or 4 of those big hho containers in his car. He has to heat them up to get HHO out and has to use multiples because it flows out too slow. Also it was very expensive and illegal in america because of the stuff inside the containers.

Once i know where i found the vid i'll add it here

..... (ethospete has in the next post exactly found the video i meant..LOL good job!)

What do you plan to work on coming monday?








ethospete

RE: LET'S BUILD A NEW WATER-POWERED CAR?
« Reply #15, on October 15th, 2012, 10:03 AM »Last edited on October 15th, 2012, 10:57 AM by ethospete
Area 51 Engineer Bob Lazar's Hydrogen Powered Corvette
/watch?v=ag4iy6yg4R4
Quote from FaradayEZ on October 14th, 2012, 11:37 PM
What do you plan to work on coming monday?
Hi EZ

Today, Monday, was to get the vehicle into the garage and get the ancillary components I hadn't purchased yet; pipes, clips, bubbler and water pump etc.  
 









So, so far so good... Ripped off the boot lid and rear windscreen and started deciding where best to locate things. As I said, I don't care what it looks like, I just want proof of concept that it is possible - we will see.  :)

Large 225 A/Hr battery ordered today and should be delivered tomorrow. I'm hoping that one will give us enough power... but if not I'll have to buy another one to give us 450 A/Hr if necessary which should be more than enough.

Replaced the potentiometer on the control unit that got snapped off in transit from Punch HHO the States. (They very kindly sent me a replacement one free of charge.)

So, all in all, a good first day on the project...

All the best

ethospete...


http://www.punchhho.com/about.php

The sweet spots:

These units seem to really become efficient right in the neighborhood of 2 volts per plate. So, for the 55 plate home unit you are going to want to hit it with 120v DC for optimum efficiency. These units will produce HHO anywhere from 90 volts and up, but at voltages that low your efficiency is less than desirable. For the 220v unit it is the same 2 volts per plate so 220 volts is a good place to be. You can run these units at higher voltages. For example, the 55 plate home unit could be run at 2.3 volts per plate or 130 volts, you are not going to kill the cell.

Electrolyte concentration:

Please keep this in mind when dealing with electrolyte: cold water has a lower PH than hot water. So if you set your electrolyte level to pull 10 amps when the cell is cold you will ultimately end up with a higher amp draw when the cell heats up and the PH increases!

This part is a bit complicated for some but please bear with me. I will try to make it as simple as possible! You can use anywhere from 5% to 20% electrolyte solution depending on your desired output. Now remember,  the cell works most efficiently around 2 volts per plate, so if you only want 5 liters per minute, you want to set your voltage to 120v and add electrolyte mix until you pull enough amps to hit the 5 liters per minute mark and then note that for future reference. Now, here is why this is important. Sure, you could just add 20% electrolyte solution to the water and call it a day BUT You will find that you will be pulling 5 amps at 90 volts and hardly making any gas! Then when you turn it up to 120v you will be making 20 liters per minute! Its all about what you ultimately want to do with the system.


Matt Watts

RE: LET'S BUILD A NEW WATER-POWERED CAR?
« Reply #17, on October 15th, 2012, 05:19 PM »
Quote from ethospete on October 15th, 2012, 11:51 AM
Punch HHO 55 Plate 120v Home Unit Clear Acrylic Cell
I guess I don't quite understand how they plumb these units.  What is the water pump for?  Cooling?  Looks to me like a constant flow of water goes through the cell with the HHO and water coming out of the top.  Someplace else must be the separator where the gas is actually let out and flow checked.

Also, that bigger Punch unit doesn't appear to be quite as efficient--26 Amps at 120volts for 19 LpM gas production.  Thats 164 watts per liter per minute--not quite as good as the 140 watts per liter per minute seven cell version.

It would take more plumbing using multiple seven cell Punch units, but you could drop needing the big inverter.  Maybe just a bank of toggle switches to bring online however many cells you need to run the vehicle.  Recall they use a controller box which is just a big rectifier.  You could get rid of that too using all DC power.

ethospete

RE: LET'S BUILD A NEW WATER-POWERED CAR?
« Reply #18, on October 15th, 2012, 06:09 PM »
Quote from Dog-One on October 15th, 2012, 05:19 PM
Quote from ethospete on October 15th, 2012, 11:51 AM
Punch HHO 55 Plate 120v Home Unit Clear Acrylic Cell
I guess I don't quite understand how they plumb these units.  What is the water pump for?  Cooling?  Looks to me like a constant flow of water goes through the cell with the HHO and water coming out of the top.  Someplace else must be the separator where the gas is actually let out and flow checked.

Also, that bigger Punch unit doesn't appear to be quite as efficient--26 Amps at 120volts for 19 LpM gas production.  Thats 164 watts per liter per minute--not quite as good as the 140 watts per liter per minute seven cell version.

It would take more plumbing using multiple seven cell Punch units, but you could drop needing the big inverter.  Maybe just a bank of toggle switches to bring online however many cells you need to run the vehicle.  Recall they use a controller box which is just a big rectifier.  You could get rid of that too using all DC power.
Hi Dog-One

Yes, the water pump is needed to pump the electrolyte around the system... It goes from the bottom outlet of the main reservoir tank to the input feed on the bottom of the HHO cell. It is then pumped through the cell, passing by all of the plates, and then out of the two top outlet pipes at the top of the HHO unit and then returned back to the top of the reservoir tank.  

I presume by pumping the electrolyte around the system in this way it helps to increase the overall gas output as theirs are the highest gas output figures that I have seen which is why I opted for this unit in the first place. I think pumping the electrolyte so that it circulates around the system quickly helps to remove the HHO gas bubbles from the plates quicker and transports it quicker out of the cell and into the main reservoir. Maybe this also means that there is more surface area of the  plates exposed to the electrolyte for longer which also helps to increase the gas output of the cell..?

As you rightly say, the smaller 120v unit appears to be slightly more efficient, based on their declared figures, than the 240v one.

I also agree that, in practice, you should be able to use multiple smaller 12v HHO units connected together to negate the need for the inverter... and then you could switch on as many units as you need to generate the HHO output that you require. This was just my idea to get a large HHO output to hopefully prove the concept. Hopefully other people will pick up on the idea and try different methods themselves.

I'll continue work on this tomorrow and hopefully get the water system all connected up and running and then start working on conditioning the cell. Ideally you should also add a radiator with an electric fan to the circulatory water system to help regulate the temperature of the electrolyte... but as this is just a test to try and get something working I've not opted for this option at this stage.  

All the best

ethospete...

FaradayEZ

RE: LET'S BUILD A NEW WATER-POWERED CAR?
« Reply #19, on October 15th, 2012, 11:17 PM »Last edited on October 15th, 2012, 11:36 PM by FaradayEZ
Quote from ethospete on October 15th, 2012, 06:09 PM
I'll continue work on this tomorrow and hopefully get the water system all connected up and running and then start working on conditioning the cell. Ideally you should also add a radiator with an electric fan to the circulatory water system to help regulate the temperature of the electrolyte... but as this is just a test to try and get something working I've not opted for this option at this stage.  

All the best

ethospete...
Hi Pete,

On conditioning the cells:
page 21-23
http://www.free-energy-info.co.uk/Chapter10.pdf
has a little info on it.
(p.s. watch the rimms, you better not sand them so as to keep a good seal to the rubber..)

If it runs warm then that's a shame..that's electricity not used for hydrolises...

Then you and your cowboys could better remove the front window, place back the rear window and let the driving air flow through the trunk?

OMG lol..;)


ethospete

RE: LET'S BUILD A NEW WATER-POWERED CAR?
« Reply #20, on October 16th, 2012, 01:52 AM »
Quote from FaradayEZ on October 15th, 2012, 11:17 PM
Quote from ethospete on October 15th, 2012, 06:09 PM
I'll continue work on this tomorrow and hopefully get the water system all connected up and running and then start working on conditioning the cell. Ideally you should also add a radiator with an electric fan to the circulatory water system to help regulate the temperature of the electrolyte... but as this is just a test to try and get something working I've not opted for this option at this stage.  

All the best

ethospete...
Hi Pete,

On conditioning the cells:
page 21-23
http://www.free-energy-info.co.uk/Chapter10.pdf
has a little info on it.
(p.s. watch the rimms, you better not sand them so as to keep a good seal to the rubber..)

If it runs warm then that's a shame..that's electricity not used for hydrolises...

Then you and your cowboys could better remove the front window, place back the rear window and let the driving air flow through the trunk?

OMG lol..;)
Hi EZ

Many thanks for that and all very useful information there... Will see how we get on today...  :)

Yes, interesting concept on the air-cooling idea... and glad you are optimistic as to our success as it would have to be actually driving forward to create airflow through the trunk then...  ;)

All the best

ethospete...


ethospete

RE: LET'S BUILD A NEW WATER-POWERED CAR?
« Reply #21, on October 16th, 2012, 09:55 AM »Last edited on October 16th, 2012, 10:52 AM by ethospete
Here's the latest update from the 'cowboys' at Ethos Labs - yes, we're not afraid to use string and gaffer tape if it gets the job done... lol  :P

Here's my band of merry men ready to start filling up the HHO cell...  :)). N.B. you'll see that we are using best quality bottled mineral water... but it's still a lot cheaper than petrol!! lol



And here's the final layout with everything bolted down and tied up with string... (and I got told off - note where I inadvertently left the spanner! :rolleyes: ).



No leaks and ran up first try as soon as we switched it on so that was a great start.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OqcFKE92VCo

I was quite impressed by the output already as we were conditioning the cell for the first time and only running on a 10% Ammonium Chloride solution. Virtually no foaming and very little heat so I believe that this was the right choice for the electrolyte.

Loads of brown stuff in the electrolyte so next job is to flush it and start conditioning it again. We were running today on an old truck battery as the new one only just arrived before we left so we'll have that to start with tomorrow.

So I'm very pleased with the progress so far and look forward to the continuing adventures tomorrow.

Even if we don't achieve our original objective, we had a great laugh today as we are now the talking point of the local engineering community in that area and we've had guesses from; "It's a very powerful new sound system..." to, "It's a portable shower" so that you can have a hot shower wherever you go in the vehicle.  :D

All the best

ethospete...

Jeff Nading

RE: LET'S BUILD A NEW WATER-POWERED CAR?
« Reply #22, on October 16th, 2012, 06:41 PM »Last edited on October 18th, 2012, 04:14 AM by ~Russ/Rwg42985
Quote from ethospete on October 16th, 2012, 09:55 AM
Here's the latest update from the 'cowboys' at Ethos Labs - yes, we're not afraid to use string and gaffer tape if it gets the job done... lol  :P

Here's my band of merry men ready to start filling up the HHO cell...  :)). N.B. you'll see that we are using best quality bottled mineral water... but it's still a lot cheaper than petrol!! lol



And here's the final layout with everything bolted down and tied up with string... (and I got told off - note where I inadvertently left the spanner! :rolleyes: ).



No leaks and ran up first try as soon as we switched it on so that was a great start.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OqcFKE92VCo

I was quite impressed by the output already as we were conditioning the cell for the first time and only running on a 10% Ammonium Chloride solution. Virtually no foaming and very little heat so I believe that this was the right choice for the electrolyte.

Loads of brown stuff in the electrolyte so next job is to flush it and start conditioning it again. We were running today on an old truck battery as the new one only just arrived before we left so we'll have that to start with tomorrow.

So I'm very pleased with the progress so far and look forward to the continuing adventures tomorrow.

Even if we don't achieve our original objective, we had a great laugh today as we are now the talking point of the local engineering community in that area and we've had guesses from; "It's a very powerful new sound system..." to, "It's a portable shower" so that you can have a hot shower wherever you go in the vehicle.  :D

All the best

ethospete...
Excellent work Pete, looks really good.:cool::D:P

FaradayEZ

RE: LET'S BUILD A NEW WATER-POWERED CAR?
« Reply #23, on October 17th, 2012, 06:17 AM »

Hi Pete,

Looks like a fun project. :)

I think the brown stuff comes from the high amount of minerals in the bottled water. Maybe you can filter it out with a double coffee filter paper or so.
Or place a makeshift filter in between the system.

I think in this setup its still a booster, getting more mileage out of the normal fuel.
Maybe you can plug a hose into the air intake and start measuring the mileage.
(timing issue!)

By topping of the LPG tank, drive the combined lpg and HHO for 100 miles or so and then top off the LPG again. The used LPG is stated on the recite.
(You should do this also 1 time without HHO.)

Good luck !!







ethospete

RE: LET'S BUILD A NEW WATER-POWERED CAR?
« Reply #24, on October 17th, 2012, 08:32 AM »Last edited on October 17th, 2012, 08:42 AM by ethospete
Quote from FaradayEZ on October 17th, 2012, 06:17 AM
Hi Pete,

Looks like a fun project. :)

I think the brown stuff comes from the high amount of minerals in the bottled water. Maybe you can filter it out with a double coffee filter paper or so.
Or place a makeshift filter in between the system.

I think in this setup its still a booster, getting more mileage out of the normal fuel.
Maybe you can plug a hose into the air intake and start measuring the mileage.
(timing issue!)

By topping of the LPG tank, drive the combined lpg and HHO for 100 miles or so and then top off the LPG again. The used LPG is stated on the recite.
(You should do this also 1 time without HHO.)

Good luck !!
Hi EZ

Yes, we've been having a whole lot of fun with it so far...  :)

As you can see below, yes the water was very dark brown when we flushed it out today...



If Daniel Dingle drove his car on 20 litres a minute of HHO why don't you think this setup will work as it's rated at 20 lpm to 25 lpm..? If he can do it why can't I..?  :)

I don't want to save on fuel... everyone is already doing that with HHO and so that is already old news now... the original remit for this project is to either prove or disprove whether it is possible to actually run a car solely on 20 lpm to 25 lpm of HHO gas from water. I still believe that it is possible as I drove Daniel Dingle's  water-powered car so I have already seen it done before, with my very own eyes, on March 28th 2008 in Manila in the Philippines. I took the following photos just before I drove the car...





We were hoping to have some answers today but it was a complete anticlimax as we got everything ready to go and fitted the brand new battery... and it was flat!!! :huh:

Sod's law I guess and so now we've put both big batteries on charge so tomorrow we should then have 200 A/Hr + 235 A/Hr = 435 A/Hr which should be more than enough energy.

The 5000 Watt inverter draws 417 Amps from the 12 V battery supply - So I could easily run my house from that much energy!  :)

So that's about all the news for today and it will be very interesting to hopefully finally get some answers tomorrow now.

We will see... :shy:

All the best

ethospete...