Tried tuning L2 L3 again with both of them close coupled. definitely no phase shift in that setup.
L3 needs to be close coupled to L1 for L2 to phase shift.

I made a longitudinal wave detector, oit of a grounded metal enclosure, with an isolated copper foil roll inside as the probe. hooked it up to a bnc, straight to the scope. I didn't put a resistance between ground and the probe, so that might be good to do (1M ohm? )

It shows no trace of the resonant wave forms, except whem there are sudden voltage changes. which makes sense.

another (mad?) Idea.

I can tune the impulse on series resonant L2, in such a way, that it collapses the positive current wave form (cap on source) L! reversed, L1 L3 close coupled, L2 L3 loose coupled).

If I would give L2 a DC offset, then the capacitor made out of L2 and L3 would also be discharged by the impulse.
(downside, is we have 17mm distance between L2 and L3, making it a very weak capacitor, although this could be strengthened by a high K dielectric, like titanium dioxide/epoxy, between  L2 and L3).

I would then have 2 simultaneously collapsing fields. Well not totally, 90 degrees separeted, but still with enough power.
The collapsing current of L2, combined with the collapsing voltage of the L2 L3 capacitor.

I wonder if that is something to work with? and also, if that would work in combination with the TEM resonant mode, whereby L3 would not be parallel tuned. so it would have a high frequency resonance, matching the impulse, and the implosion power.

hmm...
I dont know...
Tesla said, the impulses change the dielectric properties, so the L2 L3 capacitor could behave differently

another Idea is to get the current of L1, inline with the voltage of L2. that way, L3 would have both fields present.

You know what, I think it is time I hooked up a lamp to L3 and check for power.

I made the setup again with L2 series cap on the source, and L1 reversed.
I had the L2 and L3 coils too close.
And Then I got the upside down reading again, So I retuned, then I noticed L3 is phase shifting!

So it seems when L2 is very close to L3, then L2 is maximal phase shifted, and L3 starts shifting phase!

So the impulse on L2 is then on the other voltage maximum (as it is 180 degrees phase shifted when closer coupled)
And L3 is then shifting in phase.
Very interesting, as the L3 current is coupled to the L1 current.

I need to let this sink in, and understand what this means

sorry for not posting pictures yet, but its bloody hot out here.

I see L3, when it is phase shifted, is collapsed in voltage by the impulse of L2.

So now I wonder, what If I reverse the whole set up (again), put L2 cap on drain and flip L1 back,

will L3 voltage then be amplified by the L2 impulse?

So... with L2 cap on drain, I can tune the impulse to the positive V max of L2, by closer coupling it (180 phase shifted L2).
Then L3 starts phase shifting. So now I can also tune the voltage impulse of L2, to the Current maximum of L3.
That's interesting.
I already had that (voltage impulse on current max), as L2 and L3 both shifted out of phase.

But now L3 shifts out of phase independent of L2 (which already is 180 degrees shifted).

So, L1 and L2 which were out of phase, magnetic repulsing, are now shifted in phase (180 degrees). and are attracting.

so now L3 is phase shifted... and the voltage impulse can be tuned to the L3 current maximum. again voltage and current are needed to produce power. So its interesting.

I also noticed due to the closer coupling (14mm approximately), the frequency goes up again, so again, larger capacity is needed to tune the coils down (to keep it under 100kc/s). Large caps, mean larger input voltage/current/power is needed to fill them up.
Resulting in a low resonant voltage and a high resonant current. while the impulses are quickly high in voltage

high always sounds positive, but can also be negative, like a high negative voltage This always sounds weird to me.... but whatever..

If L3 is phase shifted, It should also be able to align with the L1 current, where it is close coupled to.
At the time of the opening of the mosfet switch, L1 and L3 current should be maximum, while L2 current is minimum.

So this is what it would look like? Except the L1 current is a bit simplified.

indeed with L2 cap on source, L2 =41nF and L3=61nF (must be better tuned) at 80.9kc/s The L2 impulse at its negative voltage max, is tuned to the L3 negative current max, and show amplification.
input power is 0.28V @20.0V (even lower then previous tests)
green=L2 current
yellow= L2 voltage
orange=L3 voltage
purple=mosfet on (high) off(low)
 the 2 channel scope:
yellow= longitudinal faraday sensor
blue=L3 current (notice bump after impulse)

So the L2 impulse is amplifying L3 current.
Now I need to properly tune its, and place the L2 cap on the drain again, flip L1 back over, so no coils are reversed.
and not to forget, load L3.

I've shown the power cycle of the resonant system.
every resonant cycle, has 2 power cycles in it
the capacitor and the coil are charging each other, in both polarities.

Now to make such a resonant power cycle, we need only a few watts of energy.
But the power in the resonant system is much higher, right? I haven't  calculated it with the scope, I should do that.
But it comes down to a lot of power.
The only thing, is the resultant power is zero, due to the polarity of the power. (generation/consumption).

I already coined the idea of disturbing the balance in the cycle, making one polarity bigger then the other, so the resultant power of the cycle is positive or negative. This of course is done, by introducing the impulse to the resonant cycle.

Now that is very interesting I think.
But now... how does this tie in to the phase shifting that I am seeing?
I first saw this phase shift, when I worked on Don Smith's system. I only worked briefly on his concepts, but one thing I did, was couple coils, and flip one over, and give it some distance. Then when I started tuning I saw the sine waves dance around each other. This was phase shifting at it's core.

So now It has become somewhat clearer, that the phase shift is caused by the repulsing magnetic fields.
But also, another phase shift came to play, the shift of L3, the middle coil, the secondary coil. the parallel resonant coil.
That is still so new to me, I don't know what is happening there.

Then there is the idea of the feedback cycle.
The L3 is the secondary coil. power is generated from it, as I showed the lamp burning from it in april 2019 "radiant power.." video.
So, now I couple it back to L1. So the power generated, can assist L1 in generating impulses from the assisted magnetic field.
The feedback cycle goes both ways. L1 induces L3 which induces L2.
but L2 also induces L3 which induces L1.
A double energy cycle that is counter rotating. Very interesting!

But the biggest question mark for resonant power generation is, the magnification factor.
It is nice to recycle and feedback electric energy in a continous loop. But there always are losses due to resistance.
So how do we get magnification?
Is is really due to the impulse, and the longitudinal waves?
Or is it more basic? I have seen the impulse being fully absorbed into the resonant capacitor, so that is as efficient as it can get right?

No wrong! I clearly have seen, and shown it in my videos somewhere, that the total resonant power is increased when the resonant system is tuned above its resonant frequency, somehow, the current then is increased. I have seen the same on another channel, forgot where, but he had the same.

Sad thing, is the input power also increased. S e I think this effect of current amplification by impulsed series resonance, should be combined, with the feedback loop.

End of rant.

PS I forgot, Tesla stressed it was not EM that gave effects, it was Electrostatic. In other words, we need high voltage.
I have high voltage impulses, but also would need a high voltage (dc?) field which could mean a small tuning capacity for series resonant L2.
This drives the frequency up again, but with L3 parallel resonance being so close by, I might be able to keep the frequency down, by giving L3 a big parallel capacitor.
that makes L2 high voltage and L3 high current

I've got an Idea for my Longitudinal antenna. it Should Be Like a capacitor.
  one plate is wrapped around the other (Faraday cage)
The Other Plate is in the middle and its filled with epoxy as a dielectric

Just did a test with the L2 series resonant capacitor on the Mosfet drain of the Solid state Tesla oscillator circuit.
In comparisson to the cap on source, the power input was reduced to 0,19A at 2x 10.0V
With the other test with the cap on the source (and L1 flipped) the input power was higher. 0,27A at 2x10.0V
This lower reading, is due to the amplification of both the L2 and L3 current sine waves, by the impulse that is tuned to the L2 voltage minimum (growing to negative maximum).
But... This wasn't tuned properly, so that also can explain the lower current from the supply.

I also loaded it with a lamp, from the rectified to DC L3. but this was very inefficient.

I need to tune this again, and then attach the DC offset again, to get a high voltage for the impulse to discharge.
Also still havent really tried to get the L2 voltage way up, by reducing the capacity.

scope shot shows L2 current (yellow) and L3 current (blue).

Tuning capacity on both L2 and L3 coils was 51nF
Resonance at around 83,75(loaded) to 85kc/s(unloaded)
The load detunes the system, so this needs to be retuned when loaded, and that is harder...

oh sh$t. almost forgot...
When loaded the impulse voltage is much bigger, while the resonant amplified is less!

I am absolutely blown away by the width and depth of your work and have 1 question... It looks to me like all your Bi-Filar pancake coils are wound different to the Tesla patent, that is the dual wires are sitting on top of one another, instead behind one another. I was playing with ZVS for a bit awhile and was using 25' ZIP-type stranded extension cords for mine, by simply chopping off the Plug and sockets on the opposite ends, and leaving ~10" free, tightly winding the cord into a spiral (like the yello brick road) and dabbint a bit of instant glue every 4"  or so to keep the windings tight until I got to the far end where I dabbed every 1/2 turn (in case I needed to reduce the overall size of the coil to suit the V/A/Power of the intended end use)  Well I wasn't impressed at all, and although it 'loded' the ZVS down, it barely 'radiated' at all.  That's when I took a second look at Teslas drawing and SAW clearly that the wires lie FLAT, side-by-side, not atop one another, so in effect I had to either use a heat gun and wind that cord FLAT between two thick boards or acrylic panels ~1/8" apart, one of which the flying START wires poked out  of, which was a real chore  :-) OR un-zip the extension cord (after cutting off the ends) and then wind them side-by-side on 1 thick wood board atop one thick acrylic board with an appropriate 'gap' holding them apart, with a 1'2 hole near center and and an oval 'slot' milled from center to 1 outer corner for the instant glue dabs.  When done winding, the jig is disassembled and the coil was thinner and larger and worked 5000% better  :-)  Just curious why yours aren't 'flat'  ( Like this OOOOO  instead of this 88888888)  Thanks! 

Quote from Supertechster on June 27th, 2021, 08:49 AM

I am absolutely blown away by the width and depth of your work and have 1 question... It looks to me like all your Bi-Filar pancake coils are wound different to the Tesla patent, that is the dual wires are sitting on top of one another, instead behind one another. I was playing with ZVS for a bit awhile and was using 25' ZIP-type stranded extension cords for mine, by simply chopping off the Plug and sockets on the opposite ends, and leaving ~10" free, tightly winding the cord into a spiral (like the yello brick road) and dabbint a bit of instant glue every 4"  or so to keep the windings tight until I got to the far end where I dabbed every 1/2 turn (in case I needed to reduce the overall size of the coil to suit the V/A/Power of the intended end use)  Well I wasn't impressed at all, and although it 'loded' the ZVS down, it barely 'radiated' at all.  That's when I took a second look at Teslas drawing and SAW clearly that the wires lie FLAT, side-by-side, not atop one another, so in effect I had to either use a heat gun and wind that cord FLAT between two thick boards or acrylic panels ~1/8" apart, one of which the flying START wires poked out  of, which was a real chore  :-) OR un-zip the extension cord (after cutting off the ends) and then wind them side-by-side on 1 thick wood board atop one thick acrylic board with an appropriate 'gap' holding them apart, with a 1'2 hole near center and and an oval 'slot' milled from center to 1 outer corner for the instant glue dabs.  When done winding, the jig is disassembled and the coil was thinner and larger and worked 5000% better  :-)  Just curious why yours aren't 'flat'  ( Like this OOOOO  instead of this 88888888)  Thanks!

thanks,
well if you read the 512340 patent he clearly states the design applies to all kinds of coil shapes, not only the pancake shape but also the solenoid shape.

did you know ZVS stands for zero volt switching?
and with a resonant system, the volts are zero when the current is maximum?

Ya, I sorts-kinda foound out about them by mistake while searching for a Zero-Volt-Crossing detector ckt that would 'soft-start- a 4Hp 12" Tablesaw without the tremendous 'THUNK' that more often than not, cause my 'perfectly aligned and ready to cut pieces to shift when I hit the footswitch.  Highly annoying - especially when trying to exact-cut stacked super-slippery plexiglas  :-) 

I found what I needed and it worked a treat, I also accidentally discovered that if you give an AC motor a shot of DC - they stop immediately... but the sawblade not so much!  I've had a few spin off and luckily had guard in place, so it droped down into the innards of the saw and landed (still spinning) in my sawdust box. VERY SCARY and in a case like this... goggles WILL NOT help with runaway saw...  I  called that invention Insta-Stop but told too many others about it and it got away...

So, I was thoroughly intrigued by the near  instantaneous 'spot' heating claims ZVS was making, so I decided to build one and play around a bit.  I also learned a lot about the Bifilar Tesla coils and bobbins that when properly made, driven or wired together could do really cool stuff. I have all sorts of Ideas for on-the-fly pancake and bobbin bifilar coils with ZVS drivers in esoteric places - heating things, boiling water and generating and recieving energy to do real work.  I also dug up some rather innovative thhings to do with Bifilar coils (besides making electromagnets 5-15x stronger with same V and A driving them...

 An example for a free 5-12% Fuel-saving trick using a zero-power Tesla BiFilar Bobbin: A typical engine has 3/8 to 5/8 fuel line, and thats where were going to put this coil. Because it has no 'real' electrical connections, it is perfectly safe but please use shrink tubing on your final connections and tape both ends when you're done to keep it in place.

Time Required: 10  minutes
1. Take 2 lengths of  2 different color solid copper insulated wire about 24" long  The color makes it easier to keep track as you go AND the different colors visually assure you that all wraps STAY alternating RGRGRGRGRG throughout the length of your coil.

2. Strip both ends of both wires about 1", then hold them side by side in  your fingers and then lay the wires together perpendicular to the rubber, plastic fuel line, with  about 6" excess sticking out, and slowly, tightly wrap both long wires 2-3x together, flat and side-by-side around that rubber or plastic fuel line.  This can be back at the tank, along the bottom of the car or in the engine compartment but it will not work well with Brass, Copper, Aluminum or Stainless Steel hoses. Most fuel lines have one or two sections of rubber or plastic hose to alleviate vibration and provide EZ replecement of pump and filter elements.
3. Tape these 2-3 initial windings tightly in place.
4. Continue slowly, tightly wrapping till you have 4-6" remaining.
5. Do  you best to keep both wires together and tight and Tape the final wrap.
6. Now take the RED one from the start of your wraps and and fold it over square and straight and back to the GREEN one at the end, and connect them together.
7. Solder, twist tightly and cover with Shrink-tubing or use a good, metal-insert wire-nut to do this.

 IMPORTANT you need to have the overall total length of both wires from the connection on one end to connection on other as exact as you can get it, and you soldered, twister or wire-nut connected R/G ends at opposite ends AND opposite sides of the windings ie: one connection at TOP right, one connection at BOTTOM left.
8. Now take the RED one from the end of your wraps and the GREEN one from the end, wrap each 1/2way around and fold the Green backover and forward and connect them together.
9. Thats it. Tape it all up so it doesn't move and you are done.  People in Italy that did this tried it on all sorts of vehicles and engine sizes and with all type of wire and number of wraps.  Their verdict: The solid copper is best, use 90degree bends when changing direction (foldovers), 8-13  wraps is ideal.  Less than that doesn't produce noticable difference ip motor 'pep' or your mileage increase, and more than 13 is just wasted wire... but they didn't try dual or triple -level winding  :-) They also used the std household 3-core flat residential stuff.  It works through collection of the electrostatic charge that water makes when passing thru tubing and literally turns ON and powers itself then the fuel starts flowing.  As the fuel passes thru the coil, which is getting stronger and stronger as time (and fuel) passes, it splits the gas, makes it burn faster (but not hotter) and produces more power as a result (BANG! instead of pop!) Faster pickup, acceleration and fuel saved too.  Hard to beat for free

I see a LOT of opportunity for some serious scientific tinkering here...

I need to find out if L2 also phase shifts when L3 is not there
if not then L1 mahnetic repulsing field does not push l2 out of phase

L2 does not phase shift when L3 is not present.
L2 does not shift into LMD resonance with L3, thus L2 only has the (lower frequency) TEM resonance mode.
that's good to know.

So the radiant half bridge circuit doesnt work, it's flawed.
luckily the PCB is now used to switch 2 mosfets in series, to produce high voltage impulses.

So, next on the agenda is the coil (flux) capacitor again.
Now That I have determined the right distance between L2 and L3 to phase shift the impulse to the descending zero voltage of L2, where the positive current is maximum, and the impulse is discharging the current, I can also discharge the dielectric field between L2 and L3, by making use of the same impulse. To do this the L2 coil will need a high voltage DC offset, and a high K dielectric to charge up its dielectric field.

This video shows whats wrong with the radiant half bridge circuit, and how to use the pcb for  dual series mosfet high voltage switching.

https://youtu.be/bl4xk8CMe8I

after seeing a Eric Dollard video, I was reminded again that the sudden discharge of the field, is what gives a kick.
So, again, I will tune the impulse to the descending voltage slope, to the voltage minimum. This needs to have the L1 flipped over, and the L2 capitoron the source of the mosfet.
This results in the negative impulse being on the maximum positive current. the Current is then imploded by the impulse.

I will also again will give L2 a DC offset, and will provide a epoxy/titanium layer between L2 and L3, so that the 3kV can really set up a dielectric field inside the L2 L3 coil capacitor.
This coil capacitor is then discharged by the impulse.

So the impulse will now discharge BOTH the dielectric and magnetic field, simultaneously.

Although the voltage will probably be discharged 90 degrees earlier, than the current discharge, it will still have a massive power, due to the overlap.
This KICK will excite L3.

At least that is what I want to see. This is the synthesis of both dielectric and magnetic longitudinal induction

Since L2 will be used to discharge it's current, we will be able to use a large series capacitor.

L3 might be able to use a smaller parallel capacitor this time, but as it is close coupled to L1 it will still need to be large.

The discharged voltage is from the dc offset between L2 and L3, which is made from the impulse voltage.

did a quick test setup, seems ok but needs tuning. current collaps of L2 works, and L3 current is then amplified.

Since I will kick the L3 coil, with the simultaneous current and voltage impulse of the L2 coil,

It  would make sense to tune the impulse to be a higher harmonic of L3

the Impulse can only be slightly tuned as we need the high voltage for the dc offset of L2,

So L3 and thus also L2 need to be tuned to a lower harmonic of the impulse.

I tested this before and it is doable, but I never tested it with this power current/voltage collapse impulse

I finally made my first proper coil capacitor prototype. Made some pictures, and a small reel on instagram (I still am confused on this app)
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CRFQ6JllA-g/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
https://www.instagram.com/p/CREkEN7rJmo/

it measures 70pF at 15mm distance between the plates.
I used nylon rings to distance them, but they float in epoxy, so lesson learned.
The epoxy was cast in one go, around 2cm. It became pretty hot.
 I kept it inside the steel vacuum chamber (to get rid of the air bubble), so the steel acted as a radiator.


I used a plastic paint bucket to cast in, I greased the walls with coconut oil, and this prevented the epoxy to stick,
after hardening, I could hold it upside down, and the coil cap dropped out with little effort.

As this was just a prototype I used smaller coils.
With larger coils, I might need more epoxy, and more heat could be produced.

In the end, I intend to mix the epoxy with titanium dioxide again, I dont know how that will go,
but I will mix it with the resin, before I put the hardener in, this way I can mix it very good, and
use the vacuum chamber to get the air out, before mixing the hardener in.

I'm very pleased with the result so far. No bubbles, the coils are fully enveloped in epoxy.

Another Idea, is to cast in several layers.
First the close coupled L3 and L1 coils, with epoxy.
Then the 15mm layer between L3 and L2, with the epoxy titanium mix (as the dielectric field is concentrated and imploded here).
Then the third cast with pure epoxy again, to connected the L2 to the stack.

Without the TiO2, it was pretty ok to do. not a big mess.

this picture is from RM, a fellow researcher. It shows he also has the addition of the "ringing spikes"

in his case the time between them varies.

Thinking about this, I also thought about my chair, with its larger L3 coil (thinner wire more windings, but equal mass as L2).
If I sit on it, I have a clean pure sine wave with a single impulse. no additional rings.

I wonder if this is, because I present a load to work into.

Without a load, the aether is bouncing to get rid of the energy of the impulse.

I noticed in my latest tests, that when a load is present on L3 these fenomena are drastically reduced.

So, might this be a reaction of the ambient medium on the impulsed L2 coil?

Mixing TiO2 with epoxy is nasty.
So first TiO2 needs to be mixed with the epoxy resin, without the epoxy hardener. This way we can mix it and vacuum the bubbles out. Then the hardener is mixed in, and then we cast the mix, then the mix is vacuumed and the air is let out.

The idea now, is to first make a pure epoxy cast of L1 L3, up to the L3 level.
Then when it is set,
the TiO2 epoxy mix, is cast on top of L3, with the distance holders in place.
after the miz is vacuumed, L2 is set on top, and it is hardened.
Next, the pure epoxy is again cast over L2, vacuumed and hardened.

This way we get a pure epoxy mix surrounding the TiO2 mix.
The TiO2 mix, is only between the L2 L3 coils, that together form the coil capacitor.

I modified the c3m half-bridge pcb, for the Tesla oscillator circuit.
replaced the 900V mosfets with 1200V c3m mosfets.
tested it and it works.
-3000V impulses. yeah baby :cool:

I intend to use the old C2M mosfet switch for the chair, to give it some more oompf