ok, this was silly.
let's get back to my latest video experiment, and continue.

what about using L1 to generate high voltage in a close coupled coil, this L4 coil would have high inductance low capacity. so thin wire, many windings and not bifilar.

then leave L2 as is. 2nF series parallel resonant with the large voltage differences.

L3 close coupled to L2, will not be parallel resonant. instead it will be the load coil.

L3 will be also loose coupled to The high voltage coil L4.

the idea is to get both inductions into L3.
current induced from the high voltage L4

and voltage from the cold current in L2.

the trick then becomes to get both forms of induction in phase in L3.
phase shift can occur due to the coupling distance of L4 L3. L4 has low capacity so will phase shift. maybe...

so the stack will be:
L1-L4-----L3-L2

L1=pulsed by mosfet (25%duty might work best) charges C1 (can have small parallel cap c0)
L4 high voltage resonant (no or small cap)
L3 load coil (not resonant, no cap)
L2, series parallel resonant with C1 C2 High dV dt from C1 discharge (parallel to mosfet)

lets build and test this

cold current is like a special displacement current.
set in motion by a high dV/dt event. the current impulse.
the impulse is like the ocean floor that suddenly moves position (earthquake).
and the shockwave, creates a tsunami of longitudinal water displacement, which is the cold current

so my L3 load coil must be thick with fewer windings, like the primary of a tesla coil.
it will not be resonant so that voltage and current can be in phase.

and the L4 high voltage coil is like the tesla coil secondary.

so the load coil L3 is a non resonant secondary, with 2 resonant primary's.

one primary is high voltage (loose coupled) and induces the (magnetic) current in the load. L4

the other L2 is close coupled (capacitive) and its high current induces a voltage in the L3 load coil.

but the trick is to make the L2 not a magnetic current but a cold current. from high dV/dt

this cold current then mixes with the hot current in the load L3 giving it power.

cold plus hot current= power.
2 flows coming together.
the dielectric longitudinal current tsunami flow kickstarting the magnetic vortex current.

great work

I am working on a push pull driver to series feed a high voltage ("tesla") coil.
based on a TL494 driving a IR2110 using irfp460 mosfets. 3% dead time  at 35kc/s at 15V

yellow is between the swtiching mosfets, there is a pretty large spike from when the low side mosfet turns off, so this might need a fast TVS or diode over it.

orange is the grounded secondary output.

copied from chat gpt 4

The term reactants in the context of electrical reactance comes from the analogy with chemical reactions, where reactants are the substances that undergo a change. In an electrical circuit, reactants are the components that oppose the change of current or voltage, such as inductors and capacitors

Inductive and capacitive reactance are types of reactance that depend on the frequency of the AC voltage source. Inductive reactance is related to the magnetic field created by a coil or a wire carrying current, and it increases with frequency.
Capacitive reactance is related to the electric field between two plates or surfaces separated by an insulator, and it decreases with frequency. Reactance is measured in ohms, just like resistance

Reactance affects the phase relationship between voltage and current in an AC circuit.
 For a purely inductive circuit, the current lags behind the voltage by 90 degrees, because the inductor opposes the change in current.
For a purely capacitive circuit, the current leads the voltage by 90 degrees, because the capacitor opposes the change in voltage. For a resistive circuit, the current and voltage are in phase, because the resistor does not affect the change in either.

My addition to this:
When a capacitor is empty, it reacrance (resistance) is LOW, and thus will allow very high charge currents.
once it is almost charged, the reactance (resistance is high and the current is limited. this is due to the energy stored in the capacitor being related to the voltage squared (exponential).

with an inductor this is reversed.
reactance is very high when there is no magnetic field around a coil. so when a voltage is applied over the coil there is a resistance to the flow. once time has passed and the magnetic field has build up, a current can flow due to the low reactance the coil has.

so it is not only frequency dependend but also phase depended.

And the current leads voltage with a capacitive circuit
while the currenr  lags voltage with an inductive circuit.

the goal is to have 2 resonant circuits, one capacitive the other inductive.
producing current and voltage
that induce power into a third coil whem they are in phase.

and the big trick with the capacitive circuit is to use a choke to limit the conventional current.
so that when the voltage is applied over the capacitor. the current is provided by the ambient medium, and not by the conventional current source (psu/power supply).

to get this radiant energy inflow. the mosfet switch must be very fast.
the fast mosfet will have low capacity (usually low current versions).
and will need a high current driver.

This provides high dV/dt
the duty cycle is low to prevent the conventional current flow through the choke.
so when the mosfet turns off, the voltage should restore again to the level of the psu. but this should be a slow change. low dV/dt thus the choke must be the right size. this can be calculated. ideal is probably a rise time of 1/4 period.
as this will feed the capacitive resonant system.

been working on converting our house to be 100% electric.
gas prices are insanely high, plus the network costs on top of that are too much.

Since I am confident to be able to generate free electricity soon, I decided to definitely remove our gas connection to the grid, including their meter.

Since I prefer to cook on gas, i decided to use the excisting gas pipes, for a propane stove.
I put lpg gas injectors in the stove, and connected a 10.5 liters propane tank (outside) to the pipes.
And it works great!

I found a 6kW electric central heating unit. it works on 3 phase electricity, but it said it could also run on 1 phase. so I assumed it woupd draw 2kW on one phase.
but that was wrong.

I only have a 1x35A connection, but even that is vague, since we share a main fuse with our neighbors.

So I decided to upgrade to a 3 phase 35A electricity connection. But that will take some time. they are busy...

so for now, I will disconnect 2 of the 3 electric heaters. and run it on 2.2kW I hope it will provide enough heat. as a temporary solution.

I also installed a 80 liters boiler, which already works great.

Still some work to do, as I have a Nest thermostat, which I prefer to keep using.

Also got a small infrared panel of 400W for a small room, to get some extra temperature rise and comfort.

Winter feels still far away. Indian summer is great. very mild 21C and sun. really enjoying the start of this autumn.

I hope the 3phase connection will be ready before the real cold temperatures of februari hit us. wll see. fingers crossed, and Im going to buy merino wool underwear.

Biggest worry is to blow the main fuse which is situated in our neighbors house. I have no Idea how much it can take. luckily he doesn't seem to use much electricity.

very happy to be off the gas grid, and on propane/electricity.

Now lets get it working, and with It meaning, free electric power for all

I was working on some helical coils, that fit together, as capacitor plates. But I messed up and had to start over.
I will use 2cm spacing per winding on each coil.
this is because one coil will be a thick wire (high curretn coil), reused from an induction stove.
Inbetween those thick windings, will be wound a third coil, with thinner wire, and more windings.
on top of those 2 windings will be a high voltage coil, using 0.5mm diameter wire.
Also with 2cm spacing between the windings (in the end to be copmplletely filled up with windings.

The Idea, is to form a capacitor with charged by the high voltage coil, whereby the high current coil (parallel resonant with a large tuning capacitor) will be the other capacitor plate.

The high current coil, will intruduce the high dV/dt, by switching it to ground (low side)

These windings need to line up to form consistend capacitor plates.
The fast dV/dt will innduce high dielectric (cold) currents.

The high voltage coil will induce magnetic currents in the third (output) coil.
The goal is to mix the cold diesplacement current, with the hot magnetic currents.

It will be a lot of work to get the coils right. but I now know what to do to get it right.
For this I build a coil winding machine, with a footpedal. controlled by arduino.

I started fresh today with the new coils.
this time with an exact 2cm pitch.
using 0.5mm diameter wire fore the high voltage coil

coil winding is for 50% done. it goes slow as it is horrible to do.
meanwhile I finished designing my new circuit and ordered pcbs for testing.
so meanwhile I started playing with a DC spark gap.
one of the effects I am after is the cooling effect.

I use a ZVS with a flyback coil (from aliexpress) which can deliver around 30kV.
But I use a relitivly small spark gap to keep the voltage lower.
I use 2x 15kV ceramic doorknob capacitors of 1000pF (20%) in series they measured 432pF at 10 kc/s
one side is grounded, while the other side is connected to a copper rod (no inductance) that is placed inside a PCB pipe, that is wound with copper tubing. (see pictures).

The copper tube is grounded on one side, while the other end is probed by a high voltage probe.

in orange is the tests whereby the copper rod inside the tube is charged negative, and discharged to ground.
the green scope shots are the tests with reversed polarity, meaning the rod now charges positive, and is discharged to ground.

The rod and the coil together form a high voltage capacitor.
The rapid discharge allows a radiant energy flow into the rod (orange) dv/dt= positive
or out of the rod to the coil (green) dV/dt= negative

When green and orange are compared, the polarity change can be seen.

ideally I would not use the white pvc pipe, but only air. this is just the first test.

the coil shortly rings at 30Mc/s (few turns, low capacity)

note the time base of green is 80 and orange is 40 ns/div (my mistake)
also note, how the final stable frequency appears to be lower. this might be when the longitunial tsunami of radiant energy flow from the rapid discharge has ended, and normal regular transverse waves continue

I reversed the coil and rod, in the sense that now the rod is connected to earth ground, and the coil to negative high voltage.
I made the spark gap smaller, so it suits my 16kV peak to peak ac probe. around 1mm gives 8kV air humidity is 61% so that indication of 3kV per cm is not very usefull. Also depends on sharp ore bold sparkgap rod (tungsten)
any way.
Again a fast ascillation can be seen right after the discharge, which the slows down, indicating a longitudinal wave form (faster) that transforms into a transverse waveform (slower)

So this is a negative to positive discharge, positive dV/dt which would mean the radiant energy is flowing into the coil, heating it up.
So I will reverse polarity, to get a negative dV/dt to see If it is possible to get the coil cold.

I will probably need to run at higher voltages, so I would remove the probe (place it near, for reference) and enlarge the spark gap

Ok, I now reversed polarity. The coil charges up to positive 8kV and then discharges.
I measured the frequency and it is 5kc/s (sparks).
The zvs/flyback works around 68kc/s and I power it from 12V. I could use 24V volt. Even 36 says the zvs if I remember correctly.

My WIFI router doesn’t like the sparks lol. I just need to reboot it.
also needed to reboot my labtop and digital mixer.... 

it appears to only happen with negative dV/dt so when discharging from positive to negative.
negative to positive absorbs, while positive to negative emits, so that makes sense.

So the setup is good now. but... my electronics fail. just have turn them off then. will be hard to film...
but it is all about the temperature drop, so as long as that works.

very simple.
12v (or24v, up to 30V) battery, into ZVS, into Flyback coil, into 432pF 30kV capacitor.
sparkgap. coil is positive which is grounded through sparkgap. this quick change in dV/dt sets up the radiant energy flow (longitudinal displacement). out of the coil, towards the grounded rod.

maybe to pretect my devices, I should make a faraday cage around the coil, as it radiates outward.

This outward radiantion from negative dV/dt should mean it is loosing energy, and thus it should become cold

So now I should increase the sparkgap, and increade the 12V battery to 24V for more power. (get faster sparks)

First I need to place my probe near the coil, with capcitive coupling. and get a reading that is a reference for the 7kV. then when the voltage is higher, I can still get a reference of how high it is (not depending on the spark gap distance.
I want 30kV. now getting 7, so lets make the gap 3x bigger. and see how it performs with 24V battery

I sharpened my spark gap tungsten rods. sounds less erratic this way, but also a quicker fail (continues without interuption).
did some measurements with my probe directly connected, and then again but with the probe around 1cm removed (and fixed with red tape from the coil).

I now used 25V (2 batteries in series)

scr710 shows that the initial voltag is high, 7kV but the repeated are less than 2kV, so the air is quickly conducting.
might need a magnet, or air flow, to disrupt it.

scr711 and scr712 are  zoomed into the first hv discharge, with probe connected to coil 6-7 kV

scr713 -14 -15 are with the probe loose capacitive coupled. giving around 800- 1200V DC readings

so the loose probe is reading around 6x lower than real. its just a crude indication.

gap is less than 1 mm

I opened the spark gap up to 3mm, and then 4mm
did not show higher voltages from my loose coupled probe.
after the first dc spark it instanly went to a purple AC spark.
So I will reverse my tungsten rods and use the blunt side again. it seems better for DC sparks.

I made the other zide of my tungsten rods nice and round and blunt.
the spark now again sounds very loud and erratic, like it should do with a dc disruptive discharge as tesla called it.
still the loose capacitive coupled probe reads only 1.0kV with a gap of around 4mm.
The dogs of the neighbors are barking loud. would they have heard the loud sparks?

still if I want to rung it longer, the spark turns into a single purple constant arc... I will put my microwave diodes between the flyback, and the cap, to make sure it is DC

I made a 44kV diode, from 4 series microwave diodes. added it to the negative side of the flyback coil (since the positive side should already have one.

made a mistake in how I connected it up, So I reversed the connections as possible, and did a test with positive discharges.
The coil was moved slightly referenced to the hv probe, but still at around 1cm

note how the -1kV to a much more positive (+2kV bias) ringing. very cool. just riding on top of that outflow of radiant energy.

added a longer recording, showing the positive bias, after the discharge.

also When I blow on the spark, it keeps ratling DC, instead of a AC spark

as title says.
8 sec video shows:

Ik keep thinking 1kV is low, but the probe is 1cm removed from the coil.... looking at the spark... its a lot higher.
caps are rated 15kV, 2 in series 30kV. hope they are safe...
maybe reduce the spark gap again

https://youtu.be/S4xRFwGXiXk?si=gX83HN0JBtJS1hWA

getting some where now

debugging my prototype.
made a few mistakes, which are already resolved. but now cant seem to get u3 working without overloading (drawing way to much power)

I added R24 and r25 (both 1.2k). just guessing here...

I must be getting more and more dyslectic...
I messed up the 1 and 2 on the U3 (phaser) .
good that I found it.
now corrected it and proceed

I have the pcb working.
somehow the second tl494 only gives output on one channel, but I only need one channel now.
Also the dead time, is not needed, at the duty of U3 already does the trick.
 so I can remove some parts.

that means I can move on to the next phase

I made some errors, while trying to set the input voltage at pin5 at u6(tl494)
scr728 is at pin13 (q) of u3, where I also put a 1.2 k ohm resistor to ground 3.75V so to high for U6 (normal)
scr727 is at the base of Q4 (2sc945) 2.2V
scr726 is at pin 5 (CT) of U6 (TL494). voltage here should be 2.5V (max 3V) but is only 1.38V

I think the added resistor together with R7 makes no sense.
I need a higher voltage.
I think I need to connect the Q3 to the 15V VCC instead of the 5v VVC2. then I can regulate the voltage to the right level

I see more errors with Q3. it should get 15V, and straight from vcc.
this also might explain why U6 only gives signal on pin 10 and not on pin 9. as the voltage is to low.
will get it properly to work tomorrow, altough it already works, I do want to get it fully working for a future build using a bifilar coil for the high current resonance (more output Power)