Quote from freethisone on January 14th, 2012, 06:51 AM

If you could please :D send me a link to the exact discussion you are referring  to :D, my time is limited at this point in time, thanks.


I found the link that shows the coils.

http://peswiki.com/images/0/00/Jackson_wireless_power_transmitter_300.jpg

http://peswiki.com/index.php/OS:Tesla%2C_Meyl%2C_and_Jackson%27s_Wireless_Aetheric_Power_Transmission

Very interesting, thanks freethisone, I will be looking into this as time permits.:cool::D:P

Quote from Jeff Nading on January 14th, 2012, 10:47 AM

Quote from freethisone on January 14th, 2012, 06:51 AM

If you could please :D send me a link to the exact discussion you are referring  to :D, my time is limited at this point in time, thanks.


I found the link that shows the coils.

http://peswiki.com/images/0/00/Jackson_wireless_power_transmitter_300.jpg

http://peswiki.com/index.php/OS:Tesla%2C_Meyl%2C_and_Jackson%27s_Wireless_Aetheric_Power_Transmission

Very interesting, thanks freethisone, I will be looking into this as time permits.:cool::D:P

Hi freethisone, I think I will try to build this after I get some more done on my 3d printer, thanks for the link, Jeff.

Well, just another mod I did on my 3d printer and more to come.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xz1soCwMwhU

Ok, first photo, is an attempt to build the heated bed plate. It worked for pla but it would not reach temperature to cycle on and off for abs printing. So, I went back to the drawing board, as it were. Came up with a completely new design. I made my own heater elements for the aluminum print bed plate, they will be screwed on to the plate, so in the event that one would fail it could be changed out very easily.  All of them will be powered and controlled through the Arduino board. From my calculations it should take 11 heater elements wired in parallel, this should give me about 100 watts, the plate should heat up quickly @ this rate. I might have to change the power supply to maintain this level of power, I will have to wait and see. I will run power though the elements with a separate power supply and a relay connected from the Arduino board, just for test purposes, this should allow me to test voltage and amperage. If all goes according to plan :huh: , I will connect it through a fuse then to the Arduino. :D See photos of the elements I built.

Quote from Jeff Nading on February 18th, 2012, 02:46 PM

Ok, first photo, is an attempt to build the heated bed plate. It worked for pla but it would not reach temperature to cycle on and off for abs printing. So, I went back to the drawing board, as it were. Came up with a completely new design. I made my own heater elements for the aluminum print bed plate, they will be screwed on to the plate, so in the event that one would fail it could be changed out very easily.  All of them will be powered and controlled through the Arduino board. From my calculations it should take 11 heater elements wired in parallel, this should give me about 100 watts, the plate should heat up quickly @ this rate. I might have to change the power supply to maintain this level of power, I will have to wait and see. I will run power though the elements with a separate power supply and a relay connected from the Arduino board, just for test purposes, this should allow me to test voltage and amperage. If all goes according to plan :huh: , I will connect it through a fuse then to the Arduino. :D See photos of the elements I built.

The resistor blocks look great Jeff!  
I just tried printing in ABS today.  My heated bed got to temp but sure took longer than PLA. lol I still didn't get a good first layer, it all flaked off.  I was using blue tape, I'm sure ill need kapton or that other tape with the ABS wash solution.   I'm not sure if ill try it again, the smell is horrible.  

Nate

Quote from firepinto on February 18th, 2012, 03:59 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on February 18th, 2012, 02:46 PM

Ok, first photo, is an attempt to build the heated bed plate. It worked for pla but it would not reach temperature to cycle on and off for abs printing. So, I went back to the drawing board, as it were. Came up with a completely new design. I made my own heater elements for the aluminum print bed plate, they will be screwed on to the plate, so in the event that one would fail it could be changed out very easily.  All of them will be powered and controlled through the Arduino board. From my calculations it should take 11 heater elements wired in parallel, this should give me about 100 watts, the plate should heat up quickly @ this rate. I might have to change the power supply to maintain this level of power, I will have to wait and see. I will run power though the elements with a separate power supply and a relay connected from the Arduino board, just for test purposes, this should allow me to test voltage and amperage. If all goes according to plan :huh: , I will connect it through a fuse then to the Arduino. :D See photos of the elements I built.

The resistor blocks look great Jeff!  
I just tried printing in ABS today.  My heated bed got to temp but sure took longer than PLA. lol I still didn't get a good first layer, it all flaked off.  I was using blue tape, I'm sure ill need kapton or that other tape with the ABS wash solution.   I'm not sure if ill try it again, the smell is horrible.  

Nate

Hey Nate, I found kapton tape for 12.49 a roll of 1 1/2" 1 mil,36 yards, good price even on a wider roll, link http://www.cmlsupply.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=polyimide+tape :P , and ya the smell is bad. :huh: :D I added another photo.

Here is my 3d printer heated bed plate almost ready to install, see photo.

I was invited to show my 3D printer @ the Witte Museum today, along with the guy's from Hackerspace 10bitworks, for an annual event called build it day, there was a very good turn out, children and adults, got a real bang out of the printers shown. I also enjoyed showing off my work. Here is a video of the event. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-ezOKwrMm9w&feature=plcp&context=C3360e72UDOEgsToPDskIaJa3ULbQGIrmKOZ1pNQFV

Printing more parts, for mod's on my printer. Heated bed is working very well, reliably so, takes about 12 minutes to heat up, with the aluminum plate and double strength glass on top to print on.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6gOhH_U4Ijs&feature=plcp&context=C3360e72UDOEgsToPDskIaJa3ULbQGIrmKOZ1pNQFV

Well I just did another upgrade on my Prusa, man it payed off. I finally figured out why the resolution wasn't just right, my hotend was moving within the extruder block, so I got rid of the pin setup that held the hotend supposedly in place. I made an aluminum plate with a slot cut in it, to slide around the neck of the hotend, it doesn't move at all now. Also went with the Wades hinged extruder with the larger gear, recalibrated the e drive. The wades extruder block is opposite of everyone else's :huh: , which I like much better. If you want to know how I did it just ask and I will tell you :blush:, Ha :P :cool: . I printed out a duel fan X carriage using the lm8uu linear bearings, like it much better as well, now I'm printing. Have allot of stuff to print out , and then bobbins, ya :P:D:cool:. I'll post a video soon.

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 9th, 2012, 07:51 PM

Well I just did another upgrade on my Prusa, man it payed off. I finally figured out why the resolution wasn't just right, my hotend was moving within the extruder block, so I got rid of the pin setup that held the hotend supposedly in place. I made an aluminum plate with a slot cut in it, to slide around the neck of the hotend, it doesn't move at all now. Also went with the Wades hinged extruder with the larger gear, recalibrated the e drive. The wades extruder block is opposite of everyone else's :huh: , which I like much better. If you want to know how I did it just ask and I will tell you :blush:, Ha :P :cool: . I printed out a duel fan X carriage using the lm8uu linear bearings, like it much better as well, now I'm printing. Have allot of stuff to print out , and then bobbins, ya :P:D:cool:. I'll post a video soon.

My makergear hotend came with a laser cut wood piece that does the same.  It works well,  even aftera few stupid mistakes causing impact on my part. :). Did you get the x ends to work out?

Nate

Quote from firepinto on March 10th, 2012, 03:29 AM

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 9th, 2012, 07:51 PM

Well I just did another upgrade on my Prusa, man it payed off. I finally figured out why the resolution wasn't just right, my hotend was moving within the extruder block, so I got rid of the pin setup that held the hotend supposedly in place. I made an aluminum plate with a slot cut in it, to slide around the neck of the hotend, it doesn't move at all now. Also went with the Wades hinged extruder with the larger gear, recalibrated the e drive. The wades extruder block is opposite of everyone else's :huh: , which I like much better. If you want to know how I did it just ask and I will tell you :blush:, Ha :P :cool: . I printed out a duel fan X carriage using the lm8uu linear bearings, like it much better as well, now I'm printing. Have allot of stuff to print out , and then bobbins, ya :P:D:cool:. I'll post a video soon.

My makergear hotend came with a laser cut wood piece that does the same.  It works well,  even aftera few stupid mistakes causing impact on my part. :). Did you get the x ends to work out?

Nate

I printed the motor end the other day, did not like the resolution I got, so I decided to go ahead with the upgrade, then print it again. Had just finished the upgrade last night, printed the small and large gear to see how the upgrade was going to work, I was very pleased. I need to lower the heated bed a little, then I'll try it again.

Found a good deal on Arduino's, the mega for $32.00 @
http://s.dealextreme.com/search/arduino  

Oh thank you


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Well I'm printing again. Printed out a perfect gear and Nate's X motor end. Just finished another mod, the printed Y carriage, it has 4 linear bearings, instead of the 3 linear bearings, like I had on my old aluminum cast carriage which was only a month old. I found that using just 3 bearings, the carriage would wobble, then cause problems with a print. I think to, the weight is a concern, the little Y stepper motor can't move much weight. If there's to much weight it will lose steps or resolution will be off. Here's another video of my print, sorry, the first part is a little out of focus.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQhBaDjDmAQ

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 22nd, 2012, 04:37 AM

Well I'm printing again. Printed out a perfect gear and Nate's X motor end. Just finished another mod, the printed Y carriage, it has 4 linear bearings, instead of the 3 linear bearings, like I had on my old aluminum cast carriage which was only a month old. I found that using just 3 bearings, the carriage would wobble, then cause problems with a print. I think to, the weight is a concern, the little Y stepper motor can't move much weight. If there's to much weight it will lose steps or resolution will be off. Here's another video of my print, sorry, the first part is a little out of focus.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQhBaDjDmAQ

I kind of wish I did 4 bearings too.  Also my rods must be a soft steel, because grooves are wearing in from the bearings.  The great thing is we can learn as we go and make improvents.  Imagine if we had proprietary printers and was stuck with what we have. Lol
My videos are always out of focus lol.  I need a better mic on my camera, but I can't plug one in.  I should of spent more $

Should I post stls on thingiverse?  I think if they are only available here it will attract more people to energy research.  To me thingiverse is becoming a place to go if you want to find a print to  turn your iphone into a door stop.

Nate

Quote from firepinto on March 22nd, 2012, 05:11 AM

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 22nd, 2012, 04:37 AM

Well I'm printing again. Printed out a perfect gear and Nate's X motor end. Just finished another mod, the printed Y carriage, it has 4 linear bearings, instead of the 3 linear bearings, like I had on my old aluminum cast carriage which was only a month old. I found that using just 3 bearings, the carriage would wobble, then cause problems with a print. I think to, the weight is a concern, the little Y stepper motor can't move much weight. If there's to much weight it will lose steps or resolution will be off. Here's another video of my print, sorry, the first part is a little out of focus.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQhBaDjDmAQ

I kind of wish I did 4 bearings too.  Also my rods must be a soft steel, because grooves are wearing in from the bearings.  The great thing is we can learn as we go and make improvents.  Imagine if we had proprietary printers and was stuck with what we have. Lol
My videos are always out of focus lol.  I need a better mic on my camera, but I can't plug one in.  I should of spent more $

Should I post stls on thingiverse?  I think if they are only available here it will attract more people to energy research.  To me thingiverse is becoming a place to go if you want to find a print to  turn your iphone into a door stop.

Nate

I would say Nate, it's a good thing that people have to come to this forum to download stl's :cool::D . Really, all one has to do is type in a key word like reprap on a Google search and there we are. To, what you and I have learned, the experience we have gained from building the Prusa 3d printers, this is valuable information that you and I have posted :cool: , it will help others not make the same mistakes we have made [ you less than I] :P .  So, this knowledge base here is worth the effort for people to visit our forum, then see what we are about and trying to accomplish then join in, good for everyone :P:D:cool: .

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 22nd, 2012, 05:38 AM

Quote from firepinto on March 22nd, 2012, 05:11 AM

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 22nd, 2012, 04:37 AM

Well I'm printing again. Printed out a perfect gear and Nate's X motor end. Just finished another mod, the printed Y carriage, it has 4 linear bearings, instead of the 3 linear bearings, like I had on my old aluminum cast carriage which was only a month old. I found that using just 3 bearings, the carriage would wobble, then cause problems with a print. I think to, the weight is a concern, the little Y stepper motor can't move much weight. If there's to much weight it will lose steps or resolution will be off. Here's another video of my print, sorry, the first part is a little out of focus.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQhBaDjDmAQ

I kind of wish I did 4 bearings too.  Also my rods must be a soft steel, because grooves are wearing in from the bearings.  The great thing is we can learn as we go and make improvents.  Imagine if we had proprietary printers and was stuck with what we have. Lol
My videos are always out of focus lol.  I need a better mic on my camera, but I can't plug one in.  I should of spent more $

Should I post stls on thingiverse?  I think if they are only available here it will attract more people to energy research.  To me thingiverse is becoming a place to go if you want to find a print to  turn your iphone into a door stop.

Nate

I would say Nate, it's a good thing that people have to come to this forum to download stl's :cool::D . Really, all one has to do is type in a key word like reprap on a Google search and there we are. To, what you and I have learned, the experience we have gained from building the Prusa 3d printers, this is valuable information that you and I have posted :cool: , it will help others not make the same mistakes we have made [ you less than I] :P .  So, this knowledge base here is worth the effort for people to visit our forum, then see what we are about and trying to accomplish then join in, good for everyone :P:D:cool: .

That's pretty much what I'm thinking.  It would be nice if we could upload stls in unzipped form, i think we could have nice 3d views right in the thread.  I might start thread to test that.

Nate

Quote from firepinto on March 22nd, 2012, 07:44 AM

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 22nd, 2012, 05:38 AM

Quote from firepinto on March 22nd, 2012, 05:11 AM

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 22nd, 2012, 04:37 AM

Well I'm printing again. Printed out a perfect gear and Nate's X motor end. Just finished another mod, the printed Y carriage, it has 4 linear bearings, instead of the 3 linear bearings, like I had on my old aluminum cast carriage which was only a month old. I found that using just 3 bearings, the carriage would wobble, then cause problems with a print. I think to, the weight is a concern, the little Y stepper motor can't move much weight. If there's to much weight it will lose steps or resolution will be off. Here's another video of my print, sorry, the first part is a little out of focus.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQhBaDjDmAQ

I kind of wish I did 4 bearings too.  Also my rods must be a soft steel, because grooves are wearing in from the bearings.  The great thing is we can learn as we go and make improvents.  Imagine if we had proprietary printers and was stuck with what we have. Lol
My videos are always out of focus lol.  I need a better mic on my camera, but I can't plug one in.  I should of spent more $

Should I post stls on thingiverse?  I think if they are only available here it will attract more people to energy research.  To me thingiverse is becoming a place to go if you want to find a print to  turn your iphone into a door stop.

Nate

I would say Nate, it's a good thing that people have to come to this forum to download stl's :cool::D . Really, all one has to do is type in a key word like reprap on a Google search and there we are. To, what you and I have learned, the experience we have gained from building the Prusa 3d printers, this is valuable information that you and I have posted :cool: , it will help others not make the same mistakes we have made [ you less than I] :P .  So, this knowledge base here is worth the effort for people to visit our forum, then see what we are about and trying to accomplish then join in, good for everyone :P:D:cool: .

That's pretty much what I'm thinking.  It would be nice if we could upload stls in unzipped form, i think we could have nice 3d views right in the thread.  I might start thread to test that.

Nate

We can more than likely see if Matt can do something, so we could upload stl's, I'll email him to find out if he could do something like that.

Last and final upgrade.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WCnHub5Xd_I&list=UU5MWkMsbXeqTSQGihR0is1Q&index=1&feature=plcp

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 25th, 2012, 04:58 AM

Last and final upgrade.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WCnHub5Xd_I&list=UU5MWkMsbXeqTSQGihR0is1Q&index=1&feature=plcp

Are you printing a set of X ends for spares?

Quote from firepinto on March 25th, 2012, 08:23 AM

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 25th, 2012, 04:58 AM

Last and final upgrade.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WCnHub5Xd_I&list=UU5MWkMsbXeqTSQGihR0is1Q&index=1&feature=plcp

Are you printing a set of X ends for spares?

Yes, the X ends are for another printer I want to build, want to try wax extrusion.

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 25th, 2012, 12:19 PM

Quote from firepinto on March 25th, 2012, 08:23 AM

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 25th, 2012, 04:58 AM

Last and final upgrade.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WCnHub5Xd_I&list=UU5MWkMsbXeqTSQGihR0is1Q&index=1&feature=plcp

Are you printing a set of X ends for spares?

Yes, the X ends are for another printer I want to build, want to try wax extrusion.

Ohh cool.. is that for casting metals?

Quote from firepinto on March 25th, 2012, 02:34 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 25th, 2012, 12:19 PM

Quote from firepinto on March 25th, 2012, 08:23 AM

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 25th, 2012, 04:58 AM

Last and final upgrade.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WCnHub5Xd_I&list=UU5MWkMsbXeqTSQGihR0is1Q&index=1&feature=plcp

Are you printing a set of X ends for spares?

Yes, the X ends are for another printer I want to build, want to try wax extrusion.

Ohh cool.. is that for casting metals?

Yes, eventually I want to build a printer out of aluminum, all parts cast. I'm also going to make the heated bed stationary, have two steppers move the Y axis and one move the Z axis.

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 25th, 2012, 03:59 PM

Quote from firepinto on March 25th, 2012, 02:34 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 25th, 2012, 12:19 PM

Quote from firepinto on March 25th, 2012, 08:23 AM

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 25th, 2012, 04:58 AM

Last and final upgrade.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WCnHub5Xd_I&list=UU5MWkMsbXeqTSQGihR0is1Q&index=1&feature=plcp

Are you printing a set of X ends for spares?

Yes, the X ends are for another printer I want to build, want to try wax extrusion.

Ohh cool.. is that for casting metals?

Yes, eventually I want to build a printer out of aluminum, all parts cast. I'm also going to make the heated bed stationary, have two steppers move the Y axis and one move the Z axis.

Cool, so the Z axis would lower the bed like the RepRap Orca?

  I just battled with my first prusa tonight. I had a Z motor coupler break, so I had replaced them with the newer print design.  Well stuff started printing uneven.  So while messing with it I found out the couplers were slipping, then they fell.:@  Then getting the Z and bed all matched up again.. what a pain.  I can't wait to redo this printer, or better yet use my new printer!  lol  Z home position is the worst thing to set up on my printer.  I need those adjustable magnetic endstops soon!  

I'm printing the latest of my RAMPS box now.  I'll try to get files out tonight for it.

Nate