Quote from firepinto on March 25th, 2012, 06:53 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 25th, 2012, 03:59 PM

Quote from firepinto on March 25th, 2012, 02:34 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 25th, 2012, 12:19 PM

Quote from firepinto on March 25th, 2012, 08:23 AM

Are you printing a set of X ends for spares?

Yes, the X ends are for another printer I want to build, want to try wax extrusion.

Ohh cool.. is that for casting metals?

Yes, eventually I want to build a printer out of aluminum, all parts cast. I'm also going to make the heated bed stationary, have two steppers move the Y axis and one move the Z axis.

Cool, so the Z axis would lower the bed like the RepRap Orca?

  I just battled with my first prusa tonight. I had a Z motor coupler break, so I had replaced them with the newer print design.  Well stuff started printing uneven.  So while messing with it I found out the couplers were slipping, then they fell.:@  Then getting the Z and bed all matched up again.. what a pain.  I can't wait to redo this printer, or better yet use my new printer!  lol  Z home position is the worst thing to set up on my printer.  I need those adjustable magnetic endstops soon!  

I'm printing the latest of my RAMPS box now.  I'll try to get files out tonight for it.

Nate

Yes I had that happen to me to Nate before I did the four linear bearing upgrade, but it wasn't the couplers that caused the problem, I was trying to level the bed. I printed this from thingiverse  http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12664 where you would run the bolts through to mount the bed, I heated the nuts that fit these bolts then melted them into the plastic, also covered the nuts with plastic, of course had the bolt in the nut. This helped greatly, so I could level the bed from the top of the bed instead of underneath like I had been doing, soooooo much easier to level the bed now. I did have to cut the glass down 3/4's of an inch so I could get to the bolts from the top of the bed to turn them, I used to work for a glass company so no problem, even had a glass cutter. On the Z axis, actually, the stepper would only move the Z axis, the bed would not move at all, the Y axis would work like an overhead crane [inside of a building] or gantry, the X and Z axis would be mounted to the Y axis, the X would move left and right and of course Z would move up and down from the gantry. This is exactly how my cnc plasma cutter is set up. I think this would work very well, be more stable, more accurate, better resolution. With two steppers on the Y it would be very strong.

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 25th, 2012, 08:22 PM

Quote from firepinto on March 25th, 2012, 06:53 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 25th, 2012, 03:59 PM

Quote from firepinto on March 25th, 2012, 02:34 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 25th, 2012, 12:19 PM

Yes, the X ends are for another printer I want to build, want to try wax extrusion.

Ohh cool.. is that for casting metals?

Yes, eventually I want to build a printer out of aluminum, all parts cast. I'm also going to make the heated bed stationary, have two steppers move the Y axis and one move the Z axis.

Cool, so the Z axis would lower the bed like the RepRap Orca?

  I just battled with my first prusa tonight. I had a Z motor coupler break, so I had replaced them with the newer print design.  Well stuff started printing uneven.  So while messing with it I found out the couplers were slipping, then they fell.:@  Then getting the Z and bed all matched up again.. what a pain.  I can't wait to redo this printer, or better yet use my new printer!  lol  Z home position is the worst thing to set up on my printer.  I need those adjustable magnetic endstops soon!  

I'm printing the latest of my RAMPS box now.  I'll try to get files out tonight for it.

Nate

Yes I had that happen to me to Nate before I did the four linear bearing upgrade, but it wasn't the couplers that caused the problem, I was trying to level the bed. I printed this from thingiverse  http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12664 where you would run the bolts through to mount the bed, I heated the nuts that fit these bolts then melted them into the plastic, also covered the nuts with plastic, of course had the bolt in the nut. This helped greatly, so I could level the bed from the top of the bed instead of underneath like I had been doing, soooooo much easier to level the bed now. I did have to cut the glass down 3/4's of an inch so I could get to the bolts from the top of the bed to turn them, I used to work for a glass company so no problem, even had a glass cutter. On the Z axis, actually, the stepper would only move the Z axis, the bed would not move at all, the Y axis would work like an overhead crane [inside of a building] or gantry, the X and Z axis would be mounted to the Y axis, the X would move left and right and of course Z would move up and down from the gantry. This is exactly how my cnc plasma cutter is set up. I think this would work very well, be more stable, more accurate, better resolution. With two steppers on the Y it would be very strong.

Yep I have my bed adjustable from the top too.  I was attempting to do that not realizing my Z rods were falling. lol  Id change one side and it got worse.   Sure cant wait to use 608's on the Z rods.  

I think your aluminum reprap sounds like it could have room for many extruders.:cool:  Is it going to be a larger print area?

Nate

Quote from firepinto on March 25th, 2012, 08:54 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 25th, 2012, 08:22 PM

Quote from firepinto on March 25th, 2012, 06:53 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 25th, 2012, 03:59 PM

Quote from firepinto on March 25th, 2012, 02:34 PM

Ohh cool.. is that for casting metals?

Yes, eventually I want to build a printer out of aluminum, all parts cast. I'm also going to make the heated bed stationary, have two steppers move the Y axis and one move the Z axis.

Cool, so the Z axis would lower the bed like the RepRap Orca?

  I just battled with my first prusa tonight. I had a Z motor coupler break, so I had replaced them with the newer print design.  Well stuff started printing uneven.  So while messing with it I found out the couplers were slipping, then they fell.:@  Then getting the Z and bed all matched up again.. what a pain.  I can't wait to redo this printer, or better yet use my new printer!  lol  Z home position is the worst thing to set up on my printer.  I need those adjustable magnetic endstops soon!  

I'm printing the latest of my RAMPS box now.  I'll try to get files out tonight for it.

Nate

Yes I had that happen to me to Nate before I did the four linear bearing upgrade, but it wasn't the couplers that caused the problem, I was trying to level the bed. I printed this from thingiverse  http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12664 where you would run the bolts through to mount the bed, I heated the nuts that fit these bolts then melted them into the plastic, also covered the nuts with plastic, of course had the bolt in the nut. This helped greatly, so I could level the bed from the top of the bed instead of underneath like I had been doing, soooooo much easier to level the bed now. I did have to cut the glass down 3/4's of an inch so I could get to the bolts from the top of the bed to turn them, I used to work for a glass company so no problem, even had a glass cutter. On the Z axis, actually, the stepper would only move the Z axis, the bed would not move at all, the Y axis would work like an overhead crane [inside of a building] or gantry, the X and Z axis would be mounted to the Y axis, the X would move left and right and of course Z would move up and down from the gantry. This is exactly how my cnc plasma cutter is set up. I think this would work very well, be more stable, more accurate, better resolution. With two steppers on the Y it would be very strong.

Yep I have my bed adjustable from the top too.  I was attempting to do that not realizing my Z rods were falling. lol  Id change one side and it got worse.   Sure cant wait to use 608's on the Z rods.  

I think your aluminum reprap sounds like it could have room for many extruders.:cool:  Is it going to be a larger print area?

Nate

I'm thinking 2' x 2', some where in there.

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 26th, 2012, 11:57 AM

Quote from firepinto on March 25th, 2012, 08:54 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 25th, 2012, 08:22 PM

Quote from firepinto on March 25th, 2012, 06:53 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 25th, 2012, 03:59 PM

Yes, eventually I want to build a printer out of aluminum, all parts cast. I'm also going to make the heated bed stationary, have two steppers move the Y axis and one move the Z axis.

Cool, so the Z axis would lower the bed like the RepRap Orca?

  I just battled with my first prusa tonight. I had a Z motor coupler break, so I had replaced them with the newer print design.  Well stuff started printing uneven.  So while messing with it I found out the couplers were slipping, then they fell.:@  Then getting the Z and bed all matched up again.. what a pain.  I can't wait to redo this printer, or better yet use my new printer!  lol  Z home position is the worst thing to set up on my printer.  I need those adjustable magnetic endstops soon!  

I'm printing the latest of my RAMPS box now.  I'll try to get files out tonight for it.

Nate

Yes I had that happen to me to Nate before I did the four linear bearing upgrade, but it wasn't the couplers that caused the problem, I was trying to level the bed. I printed this from thingiverse  http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12664 where you would run the bolts through to mount the bed, I heated the nuts that fit these bolts then melted them into the plastic, also covered the nuts with plastic, of course had the bolt in the nut. This helped greatly, so I could level the bed from the top of the bed instead of underneath like I had been doing, soooooo much easier to level the bed now. I did have to cut the glass down 3/4's of an inch so I could get to the bolts from the top of the bed to turn them, I used to work for a glass company so no problem, even had a glass cutter. On the Z axis, actually, the stepper would only move the Z axis, the bed would not move at all, the Y axis would work like an overhead crane [inside of a building] or gantry, the X and Z axis would be mounted to the Y axis, the X would move left and right and of course Z would move up and down from the gantry. This is exactly how my cnc plasma cutter is set up. I think this would work very well, be more stable, more accurate, better resolution. With two steppers on the Y it would be very strong.

Yep I have my bed adjustable from the top too.  I was attempting to do that not realizing my Z rods were falling. lol  Id change one side and it got worse.   Sure cant wait to use 608's on the Z rods.  

I think your aluminum reprap sounds like it could have room for many extruders.:cool:  Is it going to be a larger print area?

Nate

I'm thinking 2' x 2', some where in there.

Found out a good way to adjust the polulu drivers for the stepper motors, good how to video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q3kfJZPNg5U&feature=uploademail

Sayyyyyy Nate, I found a printable rack and pinion setup and a complete gantry setup, possibly for my next printer on thingiverse.:D:cool::P
 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6011
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:14537
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8749
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2526

Quote from Jeff Nading on April 5th, 2012, 05:46 AM

Sayyyyyy Nate, I found a printable rack and pinion setup and a complete gantry setup, possibly for my next printer on thingiverse.:D:cool::P
 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6011
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:14537
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8749
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2526

Cool Jeff, I bet the prints have to turn out really good.  A 15"x15"or more build area will be handy soon.:idea:

Hey Jeff,
Nice job on the printer parts sent to Russ.:cool:  Another RepRap in the O.S.E arsenal!  I better try the glass plate trick on my bed this week. lol  I'm home for the week so far, so ill be busy busy.  I got my sights set on that WFC housing. ;) Maybe I'll be far enough to make some unknowns - known.:D



Nate

Quote from firepinto on April 6th, 2012, 01:48 PM

Hey Jeff,
Nice job on the printer parts sent to Russ.:cool:  Another RepRap in the O.S.E arsenal!  I better try the glass plate trick on my bed this week. lol  I'm home for the week so far, so ill be busy busy.  I got my sights set on that WFC housing. ;) Maybe I'll be far enough to make some unknowns - known.:D

Nate that sounds cool, parts for the water fuel cell. I haven't seen Russ video yet, I'll watch it next, Thanks Nate.

Don't know if anyone wants filament from China, but the price is right, I think this is where the filament suppliers in the US are buying it from.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5mgDdEYC3Nw

link here
http://www.repraper.com/category.php?id=9

I might try it.:D

Quote from Jeff Nading on April 7th, 2012, 11:31 AM

Don't know if anyone wants filament from China, but the price is right, I think this is where the filament suppliers in the US are buying it from.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5mgDdEYC3Nw

link here
http://www.repraper.com/category.php?id=9

I might try it.:D

I seen that too.  The recent price hike was pretty high.  I think the white PLA I just got isn't the same as my earlier purchases.  It seems to melt at a lower temp.  I've been getting way more ooze.  Might be worth a try.

Nate

Hello all, I printed this, almost finished building it.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:20733
You can print with Ceramic Clays, Silicone, Sugar pastes, solder paste for PCB assembly, Chocolate, Frostings, Masa Harina, and all sorts of other food’s or pastes that can be extruded through a syringe.
I'm going to adapt it for wax extrusion, so I can use the wax parts as patterns to cast aluminum.:D

Quote from Jeff Nading on April 10th, 2012, 05:54 AM

Hello all, I printed this, almost finished building it.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:20733
You can print with Ceramic Clays, Silicone, Sugar pastes, solder paste for PCB assembly, Chocolate, Frostings, Masa Harina, and all sorts of other food’s or pastes that can be extruded through a syringe.
I'm going to adapt it for wax extrusion, so I can use the wax parts as patterns to cast aluminum.:D

Can't wait to see it!  Do you have to adapt some sort of hot end to it?  How detailed (small pieces?) could a design be to work for casting aluminum?

I have my Y axis gear motor all tweaked up.  I'm going to post most of the files for my dual extruder reprap when I get home from work.  Last night my internet was puking out or I would have it here today. lol  I still need a name for it.:P

Nate

Quote from firepinto on April 10th, 2012, 07:03 AM

Quote from Jeff Nading on April 10th, 2012, 05:54 AM

Hello all, I printed this, almost finished building it.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:20733
You can print with Ceramic Clays, Silicone, Sugar pastes, solder paste for PCB assembly, Chocolate, Frostings, Masa Harina, and all sorts of other food’s or pastes that can be extruded through a syringe.
I'm going to adapt it for wax extrusion, so I can use the wax parts as patterns to cast aluminum.:D

Can't wait to see it!  Do you have to adapt some sort of hot end to it?  How detailed (small pieces?) could a design be to work for casting aluminum?

I have my Y axis gear motor all tweaked up.  I'm going to post most of the files for my dual extruder reprap when I get home from work.  Last night my internet was puking out or I would have it here today. lol  I still need a name for it.:P

Nate

Yes, I will build a hotend for it and will have to play with the temp to extrude the wax at just the right temperature, I'll also have to build a metal syringe, I don't think there will be much heat, maybe less than 200 degrees F. I think the detail would be of the same quality as ABS or maybe better depending on the flow rate of the wax and a much smaller nozzle.  To extrude aluminum, it can be done but it's allot more involved, it melts or it's in a molten state @ about 1400 degrees F. Would have to use a super charged flame, torch or an electric element on a pressurized stainless steel vessel with an extrusion nozzle on it, then a way to shut down the flow and turn it on when needed, maybe a positive displacement plunger rod assembly of some kind, like the syringe or a  positive displacement pump would use, this would also need to be heated. Just some idea's I had to maybe try it one day.

Quote from Jeff Nading on April 10th, 2012, 05:54 AM

Hello all, I printed this, almost finished building it.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:20733
You can print with Ceramic Clays, Silicone, Sugar pastes, solder paste for PCB assembly, Chocolate, Frostings, Masa Harina, and all sorts of other food’s or pastes that can be extruded through a syringe.
I'm going to adapt it for wax extrusion, so I can use the wax parts as patterns to cast aluminum.:D

freekin sweet! ~Russ

Say Nate, does the axis gear zip you up loaded use a T5 or XL belt?

Quote from Jeff Nading on April 11th, 2012, 04:39 PM

Say Nate, does the axis gear zip you up loaded use a T5 or XL belt?

It uses XL belts, I haven't tried any T5 belts.  I just did some searching to see what one had the deeper grooves but didn't find much so far.  I found this wiki about GT2 belts being better for linear motion. I may have to look into that.
http://reprap.org/wiki/Choosing_Belts_and_Pulleys

I order my XL belts from mcmaster-carr by the foot:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/1059/=h2dwae

Quote from firepinto on April 11th, 2012, 06:18 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on April 11th, 2012, 04:39 PM

Say Nate, does the axis gear zip you up loaded use a T5 or XL belt?

It uses XL belts, I haven't tried any T5 belts.  I just did some searching to see what one had the deeper grooves but didn't find much so far.  I found this wiki about GT2 belts being better for linear motion. I may have to look into that.
http://reprap.org/wiki/Choosing_Belts_and_Pulleys

I order my XL belts from mcmaster-carr by the foot:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/1059/=h2dwae

The XL belts are the one's I used also, to, I bought them from McMaster. I think the XL verses T5 is the better pick.

http://www.plansandprojects.com/My%20Machines/Gravity_Extruder/GE2.html

Hey Jeff, just came across this.  Some 3D printing to aluminum casting. :cool:  Sounds like he's making a pellet extruder.  Interesting.  Not sure what type of pellets.

Nate

Quote from firepinto on April 21st, 2012, 09:17 AM

http://www.plansandprojects.com/My%20Machines/Gravity_Extruder/GE2.html

Hey Jeff, just came across this.  Some 3D printing to aluminum casting. :cool:  Sounds like he's making a pellet extruder.  Interesting.  Not sure what type of pellets.

Nate

It might work,:cool: I would have to do my own testing. I think without the pellets being "pushed" through the extruder head [pressure], there would be air bubbles trapped in the finished filament :D, to, it didn't look very smooth.
http://www.plansandprojects.com/My%20Machines/Gravity_Extruder/
I am getting parts together for the plastic shredder, 1.75 and 3mm filament extruder. I will have to cast parts for the shredder, I wish I knew sketchup already,:(  I could print out patterns like he did for his gravity extruder. Thanks for the post, always interesting things you find to look at.:D

Finally finished the last upgrade on my 3D printer, the resolution is really great.:D:D:D:P

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b66WZXvgzhE&list=UU5MWkMsbXeqTSQGihR0is1Q&index=1&feature=plcp,

Quote from Jeff Nading on April 26th, 2012, 01:49 PM

Finally finished the last upgrade on my 3D printer, the resolution is really great.:D:D:D:P

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b66WZXvgzhE&list=UU5MWkMsbXeqTSQGihR0is1Q&index=1&feature=plcp,

that looks too cool jeff!

looking good! and the glass top is freekin sweet!!! also is it also heated from the AL plate?

Manny blessings Jeff!

PS... get on Skype. you can phone me on there! :)

~Russ

Not sure if the printer or its price is good but just saw this one: http://store.solidoodle.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=56

Quote from ~Russ/Rwg42985 on April 27th, 2012, 02:33 AM

Quote from Jeff Nading on April 26th, 2012, 01:49 PM

Finally finished the last upgrade on my 3D printer, the resolution is really great.:D:D:D:P

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b66WZXvgzhE&list=UU5MWkMsbXeqTSQGihR0is1Q&index=1&feature=plcp,

that looks too cool jeff!

looking good! and the glass top is freekin sweet!!! also is it also heated from the AL plate?

Manny blessings Jeff!

PS... get on Skype. you can phone me on there! :)

~Russ

Thanks Russ, yes the aluminum heat plate heats the glass, two reasons why I use glass, one to have a print come out really flat and two there is a cooling period when the printer is finished printing the part, about 8 to 10 minutes, so instead of waiting to take the printed part off the glass I just swap the glass out and continue printing, saves time. In manufacturing this would be important, but it just saves me time also.:D I will have to look into skype, thanks.  

Quote from Sharky on April 27th, 2012, 04:18 AM

Not sure if the printer or its price is good but just saw this one: http://store.solidoodle.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=56

The price is good sharky,  but they don't say it's built with linear bearings, which is important to me.

Quote from Jeff Nading on April 27th, 2012, 05:50 AM

Quote from Sharky on April 27th, 2012, 04:18 AM

Not sure if the printer or its price is good but just saw this one: http://store.solidoodle.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=56

The price is good sharky,  but they don't say it's built with linear bearings, which is important to me.

Plus I think they are closed source.