Quote from Jeff Nading on December 23rd, 2011, 05:25 AM

Nate are you home, I was hoping you could tell me at what speed you are extruding at in printrun, thanks, hope all is well.:D

[attachment=654]
I just sat down with jet lag. :D  I took a screen shot of my settings, to be honest I don't even remember changing mine to 50! lol I'm losing my mind.  I think I was trying to adjust my 100% infill so that it didn't pile up too thick and cause the nozzle to drag.

I hope your doing well.:)

Nate

Quote from firepinto on December 23rd, 2011, 04:02 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on December 23rd, 2011, 05:25 AM

Nate are you home, I was hoping you could tell me at what speed you are extruding at in printrun, thanks, hope all is well.:D

I just sat down with jet lag. :D  I took a screen shot of my settings, to be honest I don't even remember changing mine to 50! lol I'm losing my mind.  I think I was trying to adjust my 100% infill so that it didn't pile up too thick and cause the nozzle to drag.

I hope your doing well.:)

Nate

Good morning Nate, hope your jet lag is gone. I just set the perimeters you sent me. It works, this helped me find another problem with the peek, the filament is getting hot before it reaches the barrel and swelling  between the peek and the ptfe, this is causing the filament to seize and stop moving into the barrel hotend, so, I am going to try to taper the end of the ptfe and the inside of the peek to match the taper of the ptfe in the hopes that this will stop the filament from seizing at this point and move into the barrel. I must have tried at least 45 times thus far to get the peek to work correctly and I know I have said this before , but I think I am very close to success. I think this is why Makergear uses ss pins to hold the ptfe into the peek, the hotend is really an engineering marvel. One other question, what do you have your mm/min set to for your extrusion setting, look at the photo, thanks Nate.  

Quote from Jeff Nading on December 24th, 2011, 08:49 AM

Quote from firepinto on December 23rd, 2011, 04:02 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on December 23rd, 2011, 05:25 AM

Nate are you home, I was hoping you could tell me at what speed you are extruding at in printrun, thanks, hope all is well.:D

I just sat down with jet lag. :D  I took a screen shot of my settings, to be honest I don't even remember changing mine to 50! lol I'm losing my mind.  I think I was trying to adjust my 100% infill so that it didn't pile up too thick and cause the nozzle to drag.

I hope your doing well.:)

Nate

Good morning Nate, hope your jet lag is gone. I just set the perimeters you sent me. It works, this helped me find another problem with the peek, the filament is getting hot before it reaches the barrel and swelling  between the peek and the ptfe, this is causing the filament to seize and stop moving into the barrel hotend, so, I am going to try to taper the end of the ptfe and the inside of the peek to match the taper of the ptfe in the hopes that this will stop the filament from seizing at this point and move into the barrel. I must have tried at least 45 times thus far to get the peek to work correctly and I know I have said this before , but I think I am very close to success. I think this is why Makergear uses ss pins to hold the ptfe into the peek, the hotend is really an engineering marvel. One other question, what do you have your mm/min set to for your extrusion setting, look at the photo, thanks Nate.

I have had seizing like that a couple times, when i forgot to turn off the heat after a print finished.  No problem with the delay on the hot ends over here Jeff.  :cool:  Take all the time you need.:)  I wonder if ABS would work better with its higher melting point?  

Do you mean the settings by the red buttons near the bottom?  I set my extrude setting to various spots around 10 or 12 mm, depending on how long the nozzle sat leaking out molten PLA.  But all that does is set the amount of filament to extrude when you click the red extrude button, it has no affect on printing.  The Reverse extrude mm/m I have set for 300, which also only affects the feed rate when you click the extrude or reverse button.  

Nate

Quote from firepinto on December 24th, 2011, 04:47 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on December 24th, 2011, 08:49 AM

Quote from firepinto on December 23rd, 2011, 04:02 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on December 23rd, 2011, 05:25 AM

Nate are you home, I was hoping you could tell me at what speed you are extruding at in printrun, thanks, hope all is well.:D

I just sat down with jet lag. :D  I took a screen shot of my settings, to be honest I don't even remember changing mine to 50! lol I'm losing my mind.  I think I was trying to adjust my 100% infill so that it didn't pile up too thick and cause the nozzle to drag.

I hope your doing well.:)

Nate

Good morning Nate, hope your jet lag is gone. I just set the perimeters you sent me. It works, this helped me find another problem with the peek, the filament is getting hot before it reaches the barrel and swelling  between the peek and the ptfe, this is causing the filament to seize and stop moving into the barrel hotend, so, I am going to try to taper the end of the ptfe and the inside of the peek to match the taper of the ptfe in the hopes that this will stop the filament from seizing at this point and move into the barrel. I must have tried at least 45 times thus far to get the peek to work correctly and I know I have said this before , but I think I am very close to success. I think this is why Makergear uses ss pins to hold the ptfe into the peek, the hotend is really an engineering marvel. One other question, what do you have your mm/min set to for your extrusion setting, look at the photo, thanks Nate.

I have had seizing like that a couple times, when i forgot to turn off the heat after a print finished.  No problem with the delay on the hot ends over here Jeff.  :cool:  Take all the time you need.:)  I wonder if ABS would work better with its higher melting point?  

Do you mean the settings by the red buttons near the bottom?  I set my extrude setting to various spots around 10 or 12 mm, depending on how long the nozzle sat leaking out molten PLA.  But all that does is set the amount of filament to extrude when you click the red extrude button, it has no affect on printing.  The Reverse extrude mm/m I have set for 300, which also only affects the feed rate when you click the extrude or reverse button.  

Nate

Ya  Nate,  that's what I was wondering about extrusion and reverse, for mm/min, if it had any affect while printing. I tried tapering the peek and the ptfe, did the same thing, next I will try screwing the barrel into the peek as always but have it also pushing tight against  the ptfe, with pins holding the ptfe in place, this might be the answer, I'll try it tomorrow.

Nate, after a month and a half of failures :( , trying different things with the hotend, to get it to work without seizing up, never seeing one that did work, I finally fixed the problem :D :P . The barrel, peek and the ptfe have to be machined to match a certain way. I can now finish yours and hopefully ship them to you Tuesday :D :cool:. Thanks for being patient.:D

Ok Nate, I packaged up your hotends, I'll ship them tomorrow :D. The smaller hole size ptfe is installed in the peek so you can run the smaller size filament. The larger hole size ptfe is in the bags with the hotends, if you need to change from small to large hole size ptfe , it's easy to do, but you will have to unscrew the barrel out of the peek, taking note of the blue marks on the peek, remove the brass pins, screw a 1/4 " bolt or rod into the peek to force out the ptfe, pull the peek sleeve off of the ptfe, install it on the larger hole size ptfe, then put it all back together in the reverse order. One other item is, I left the peek sleeve a little long, you might have to file them down, to get the exact height for both hotends to match each other on the z axis. Here is a photo of the hotends, the blue tape is just to hold the brass pins from falling out. :D

Quote from Jeff Nading on December 26th, 2011, 03:20 PM

Ok Nate, I packaged up your hotends, I'll ship them tomorrow :D. The smaller hole size ptfe is installed in the peek so you can run the smaller size filament. The larger hole size ptfe is in the bags with the hotends, if you need to change from small to large hole size ptfe , it's easy to do, but you will have to unscrew the barrel out of the peek, taking note of the blue marks on the peek, remove the brass pins, screw a 1/4 " bolt or rod into the peek to force out the ptfe, pull the peek sleeve off of the ptfe, install it on the larger hole size ptfe, then put it all back together in the reverse order. One other item is, I left the peek sleeve a little long, you might have to file them down, to get the exact height for both hotends to match each other on the z axis. Here is a photo of the hotends, the blue tape is just to hold the brass pins from falling out. :D

Wow those look sweet!  I can't wait to try them out.:cool:  I started on putting my new frame together today.:)

Nate

Quote from firepinto on December 26th, 2011, 08:50 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on December 26th, 2011, 03:20 PM

Ok Nate, I packaged up your hotends, I'll ship them tomorrow :D. The smaller hole size ptfe is installed in the peek so you can run the smaller size filament. The larger hole size ptfe is in the bags with the hotends, if you need to change from small to large hole size ptfe , it's easy to do, but you will have to unscrew the barrel out of the peek, taking note of the blue marks on the peek, remove the brass pins, screw a 1/4 " bolt or rod into the peek to force out the ptfe, pull the peek sleeve off of the ptfe, install it on the larger hole size ptfe, then put it all back together in the reverse order. One other item is, I left the peek sleeve a little long, you might have to file them down, to get the exact height for both hotends to match each other on the z axis. Here is a photo of the hotends, the blue tape is just to hold the brass pins from falling out. :D

Wow those look sweet!  I can't wait to try them out.:cool:  I started on putting my new frame together today.:)

Nate

Nate post some photo's or a video of your new build when you can, you should receive the hotends sometime next week.

Say Nate, I read you have your heated print plate working, what did you come up with? Good work on the bobbins to.:cool:

Quote from Jeff Nading on December 28th, 2011, 02:21 PM

Say Nate, I read you have your heated print plate working, what did you come up with? Good work on the bobbins to.:cool:

I did get it working. :)  I went with the automotive stick on oil pan heater pads.  So far it's working great on PLA.  I want to try the sheet of glass trick, I just know my luck around sharp stuff.  With the glass I could swap them after a print is done with out waiting for the bed to cool.  Right now I have to wait before I can remove parts so they don't bend.  I have some ABS to try now, going to try that as soon as I get done printing a pile of stuff.:D  I have some video taken that I'll be putting together by the end of the week.  

Nate

Nate here is a video on building a 3d scanner for $ 25.00 the software is free, link here
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rUmJZx8LZY0&context=C302cc3cADOEgsToPDskLYssZRRNpOZiJoiN_jeq2N:cool: , you should receive your  hotends Tuesday, also make sure the peek is screwed snugly to the barrel so as to have a good seal and not leak any filament, not real tight though cause it will swell the ptfe and reduce the size of the hole that the filament runs through.:D

Quote from Jeff Nading on December 30th, 2011, 04:19 PM

Nate here is a video on building a 3d scanner for $ 25.00 the software is free, link here
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rUmJZx8LZY0&context=C302cc3cADOEgsToPDskLYssZRRNpOZiJoiN_jeq2N:cool: , you should receive your  hotends Tuesday, also make sure the peek is screwed snugly to the barrel so as to have a good seal and not leak any filament, not real tight though cause it will swell the ptfe and reduce the size of the hole that the filament runs through.:D

Thanks Jeff,:cool:
Can't wait to give them a whirl!  I haven't got as far as I wanted with the new printer.  I actually used more hardware than I thought and ran out.  I'll try to get time this weekend to stitch some progress movies together.:)

Nate

Hey Jeff,
I see a small package arrived at my front door today. :)  I won't be home till the weekend though.:-/  

Thanks Jeff!:D

Nate

Quote from firepinto on January 3rd, 2012, 03:22 PM

Hey Jeff,
I see a small package arrived at my front door today. :)  I won't be home till the weekend though.:-/  

Thanks Jeff!:D

Nate

Your welcome Nate, I also put a transformer in the package to run the t stat  I had sent you, have fun with it all Nate.:D:Phttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MTAztZjP3ak   open source software for 3d printing, interesting.:cool:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bz7_xoJ7e6c&feature=youtu.be      Cast another aluminum part for my 3d printer, it's a slide for the print bed, fitted with linear bearings.

Quote from Jeff Nading on January 8th, 2012, 11:50 AM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bz7_xoJ7e6c&feature=youtu.be      Cast another aluminum part for my 3d printer, it's a slide for the print bed, fitted with linear bearings.

Nice work Jeff!  I like the paperclip spring idea, I might have to borrow that one.  Right now I'm going springless, which works but i found it can cause some motor skip if the nozzle drags.

I still haven't started my heated bed video! lol I've been so busy this weekend working on cars.:-/  The heated bed is working great so far, it makes printing so much easier.  BTW I got your hotends, they look sweet!  Thanks Jeff:cool:

Nate

Quote from firepinto on January 8th, 2012, 06:44 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on January 8th, 2012, 11:50 AM

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bz7_xoJ7e6c&feature=youtu.be      Cast another aluminum part for my 3d printer, it's a slide for the print bed, fitted with linear bearings.

Nice work Jeff!  I like the paperclip spring idea, I might have to borrow that one.  Right now I'm going springless, which works but i found it can cause some motor skip if the nozzle drags.

I still haven't started my heated bed video! lol I've been so busy this weekend working on cars.:-/  The heated bed is working great so far, it makes printing so much easier.  BTW I got your hotends, they look sweet!  Thanks Jeff:cool:

Nate

Your welcome Nate, hope they will work for you. How do they compare to makergear hot ends? Never seeing one it's hard to imagine and making every part out of solid rods [brass, ptfe and peek] :huh:, then winding nichrome wire around the heat core I made was also a challenge, drilling the hole in the extruder nozzle by hand was a trick to say the least, I had to make a tool to do that :idea:, then to perfect the hotend took many hours :blush:, so I am anxious to hear and see how they work for you Nate :D, if you could let me know, but no pressure, I know it's going to take a while to finish the build :cool::cool: . I did have fun building the parts and might start selling them on ebay if they work out for you :D:cool::P.

Hi, first time posting  here, but i try to keep up with  updates.

I was doing some research, and i thought it was interesting how a primary coil, and secondary coil could be printed on these boards you make.

here is a link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qs-2s85lO6o&feature=plcp&context=C301fc88UDOEgsToPDskLxwaL_rBoP_uzjyCFh-y5q

Its not good quality, but they say they have printed on one side of a board a primary coil, and on the other side a secondary with more turns.

I would like to see you produce one of these coils if it was possible with your setup.

  cheers.

Quote from freethisone on January 11th, 2012, 08:58 PM

Hi, first time posting  here, but i try to keep up with  updates.

I was doing some research, and i thought it was interesting how a primary coil, and secondary coil could be printed on these boards you make.

here is a link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qs-2s85lO6o&feature=plcp&context=C301fc88UDOEgsToPDskLxwaL_rBoP_uzjyCFh-y5q

Its not good quality, but they say they have printed on one side of a board a primary coil, and on the other side a secondary with more turns.

I would like to see you produce one of these coils if it was possible with your setup.

  cheers.

I watched the video, I did not see what you are talking about, is there more than one video? And what boards are you referring to? :D

Quote from Jeff Nading on January 12th, 2012, 02:54 PM

Quote from freethisone on January 11th, 2012, 08:58 PM

Hi, first time posting  here, but i try to keep up with  updates.

I was doing some research, and i thought it was interesting how a primary coil, and secondary coil could be printed on these boards you make.

here is a link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qs-2s85lO6o&feature=plcp&context=C301fc88UDOEgsToPDskLxwaL_rBoP_uzjyCFh-y5q

Its not good quality, but they say they have printed on one side of a board a primary coil, and on the other side a secondary with more turns.

I would like to see you produce one of these coils if it was possible with your setup.

  cheers.

I watched the video, I did not see what you are talking about, is there more than one video? And what boards are you referring to? :D

yes there are 6 parts I think to the series. But I thought the first part  mentioned the coils.
The little device with the 2 balls has the printed coils below. looks like they are standing on the coils. Looks a bit like a CD rather than a coil. Biffilar wound. that would be interesting on a flat board like that, saving lots of room. And also keeping the primary from shorting to the secondary.

Quote from freethisone on January 12th, 2012, 09:24 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on January 12th, 2012, 02:54 PM

Quote from freethisone on January 11th, 2012, 08:58 PM

Hi, first time posting  here, but i try to keep up with  updates.

I was doing some research, and i thought it was interesting how a primary coil, and secondary coil could be printed on these boards you make.

here is a link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qs-2s85lO6o&feature=plcp&context=C301fc88UDOEgsToPDskLxwaL_rBoP_uzjyCFh-y5q

Its not good quality, but they say they have printed on one side of a board a primary coil, and on the other side a secondary with more turns.

I would like to see you produce one of these coils if it was possible with your setup.

  cheers.

I watched the video, I did not see what you are talking about, is there more than one video? And what boards are you referring to? :D

yes there are 6 parts I think to the series. But I thought the first part  mentioned the coils.
The little device with the 2 balls has the printed coils below. looks like they are standing on the coils. Looks a bit like a CD rather than a coil. Biffilar wound. that would be interesting on a flat board like that, saving lots of room. And also keeping the primary from shorting to the secondary.

If you could please :D send me a link to the exact discussion you are referring  to :D, my time is limited at this point in time, thanks.

Quote from Jeff Nading on January 13th, 2012, 02:31 PM

Quote from freethisone on January 12th, 2012, 09:24 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on January 12th, 2012, 02:54 PM

Quote from freethisone on January 11th, 2012, 08:58 PM

Hi, first time posting  here, but i try to keep up with  updates.

I was doing some research, and i thought it was interesting how a primary coil, and secondary coil could be printed on these boards you make.

here is a link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qs-2s85lO6o&feature=plcp&context=C301fc88UDOEgsToPDskLxwaL_rBoP_uzjyCFh-y5q

Its not good quality, but they say they have printed on one side of a board a primary coil, and on the other side a secondary with more turns.

I would like to see you produce one of these coils if it was possible with your setup.

  cheers.

I watched the video, I did not see what you are talking about, is there more than one video? And what boards are you referring to? :D

yes there are 6 parts I think to the series. But I thought the first part  mentioned the coils.
The little device with the 2 balls has the printed coils below. looks like they are standing on the coils. Looks a bit like a CD rather than a coil. Biffilar wound. that would be interesting on a flat board like that, saving lots of room. And also keeping the primary from shorting to the secondary.

If you could please :D send me a link to the exact discussion you are referring  to :D, my time is limited at this point in time, thanks.

There is a related video at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=Qfb8Zaj1jT4

This is a beatifully informative thread guys, thanks for all the good info. . mind blowing for what this means to the world long term!  

Quote from admin on January 14th, 2012, 04:15 AM

This is a beatifully informative thread guys, thanks for all the good info. . mind blowing for what this means to the world long term!

Thank you admin.:D:P

If you could please :D send me a link to the exact discussion you are referring  to :D, my time is limited at this point in time, thanks.


I found the link that shows the coils.

http://peswiki.com/images/0/00/Jackson_wireless_power_transmitter_300.jpg

http://peswiki.com/index.php/OS:Tesla%2C_Meyl%2C_and_Jackson%27s_Wireless_Aetheric_Power_Transmission