Hi
I am posting this thread here so we start to have
consolidated part data, come togther form where it is found
 to work toward final open source designs.

Russ Alex and others if you have comment on this rebuild 8xa from Tony
for improvement or faults please post as it educates others.  

VERY IMPORTANT IDEA
==========================================
Guys
We should start a Folder (thread) Called

The final set

(which is aCleary sectioned group of folders of the known stan parts .
This would be the elvated final fast build guide to each working design ,we know of from all this forum work
parts and sources of parts.
 So people make there parts quickly via their own kits and get on board asap.

Idealy we will leave info and threads from all this forum trail & error online
 for ever , for self or group educational purposes.
 
=============================================
A summary doc in google docs is posted for each part in the final set folder

Each summary doc in that folder is the  condolidated proven build instruction each of the sectioned part in the system drawn all this hq forum  knowledge)
===============================================
Goal would be

So others just starting or waking up that major advances have been made here
can start at a higher new  point in the learning and rebuild process so not to repeat time in vested in the re construction trails and errors,we are all doing now.
As Stan did already 30 years ago. Russ Tony Alex and many other have made it through the really hard parts of learning and we need to get info our ther and
make it go viral gloabl now.

So professional nechanic newbies  get a cheat guide for final best design for each of stans parts sections as 1 summarised doc  for each part.

I believe we must do this now ,  and get it started

1 simple summary  google instruction doc for each part/ from current knowledge Final Set- Folder .
===========================================
I believe it will gain alot more attention from busy mechanic ,electricians
and builders round the word that way, as they can see cleary the path part by part build from each doc the final consolidated build instruction for each.

They still can particpate in forum for each part section for further development.
It just means more people come up to speed and start building stand parts faster.
Today.

And each part Doc can be than shared pushed
and rebuilt  double time from core consolidated files posted in ach titled section.

Dan

its a good idea, hope we can make it happen! as of now... there are still a lot of unknowns. even tho i and others have build devices, some are not tested and should wait to be put in to the docs?

grate work!!!!

~Russ

Quote from securesupplies on March 16th, 2012, 12:27 AM

Hi
I am posting this thread here so we start to have
consolidated part data, come togther form where it is found
 to work toward final open source designs.

Russ Alex and others if you have comment on this rebuild 8xa from Tony
for improvement or faults please post as it educates others.  

VERY IMPORTANT IDEA
==========================================
Guys
We should start a Folder (thread) Called

The final set

(which is aCleary sectioned group of folders of the known stan parts .
This would be the elvated final fast build guide to each working design ,we know of from all this forum work
parts and sources of parts.
 So people make there parts quickly via their own kits and get on board asap.

Idealy we will leave info and threads from all this forum trail & error online
 for ever , for self or group educational purposes.
 
=============================================
A summary doc in google docs is posted for each part in the final set folder

Each summary doc in that folder is the  condolidated proven build instruction each of the sectioned part in the system drawn all this hq forum  knowledge)
===============================================
Goal would be

So others just starting or waking up that major advances have been made here
can start at a higher new  point in the learning and rebuild process so not to repeat time in vested in the re construction trails and errors,we are all doing now.
As Stan did already 30 years ago. Russ Tony Alex and many other have made it through the really hard parts of learning and we need to get info our ther and
make it go viral gloabl now.

So professional nechanic newbies  get a cheat guide for final best design for each of stans parts sections as 1 summarised doc  for each part.

I believe we must do this now ,  and get it started

1 simple summary  google instruction doc for each part/ from current knowledge Final Set- Folder .
===========================================
I believe it will gain alot more attention from busy mechanic ,electricians
and builders round the word that way, as they can see cleary the path part by part build from each doc the final consolidated build instruction for each.

They still can particpate in forum for each part section for further development.
It just means more people come up to speed and start building stand parts faster.
Today.

And each part Doc can be than shared pushed
and rebuilt  double time from core consolidated files posted in ach titled section.

Dan

This will be great work Dan, I had been thinking of posting all working models and builds to one area of the forum as well, so it would not be so hard for someone to go through quickly instead of having to read every post and thread on the forum to reproduce working devises, great work.:cool::cool::D:P

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 16th, 2012, 09:01 PM

Quote from securesupplies on March 16th, 2012, 12:27 AM

Hi
I am posting this thread here so we start to have
consolidated part data, come togther form where it is found
 to work toward final open source designs.

Russ Alex and others if you have comment on this rebuild 8xa from Tony
for improvement or faults please post as it educates others.  

VERY IMPORTANT IDEA
==========================================
Guys
We should start a Folder (thread) Called

The final set

(which is aCleary sectioned group of folders of the known stan parts .
This would be the elvated final fast build guide to each working design ,we know of from all this forum work
parts and sources of parts.
 So people make there parts quickly via their own kits and get on board asap.

Idealy we will leave info and threads from all this forum trail & error online
 for ever , for self or group educational purposes.
 
=============================================
A summary doc in google docs is posted for each part in the final set folder

Each summary doc in that folder is the  condolidated proven build instruction each of the sectioned part in the system drawn all this hq forum  knowledge)
===============================================
Goal would be

So others just starting or waking up that major advances have been made here
can start at a higher new  point in the learning and rebuild process so not to repeat time in vested in the re construction trails and errors,we are all doing now.
As Stan did already 30 years ago. Russ Tony Alex and many other have made it through the really hard parts of learning and we need to get info our ther and
make it go viral gloabl now.

So professional nechanic newbies  get a cheat guide for final best design for each of stans parts sections as 1 summarised doc  for each part.

I believe we must do this now ,  and get it started

1 simple summary  google instruction doc for each part/ from current knowledge Final Set- Folder .
===========================================
I believe it will gain alot more attention from busy mechanic ,electricians
and builders round the word that way, as they can see cleary the path part by part build from each doc the final consolidated build instruction for each.

They still can particpate in forum for each part section for further development.
It just means more people come up to speed and start building stand parts faster.
Today.

And each part Doc can be than shared pushed
and rebuilt  double time from core consolidated files posted in ach titled section.

Dan

This will be great work Dan, I had been thinking of posting all working models and builds to one area of the forum as well, so it would not be so hard for someone to go through quickly instead of having to read every post and thread on the forum to reproduce working devises, great work.:cool::cool::D:P

Thanks for the comments, it is great

I might add Russ is a &

" LEGEND AND A STAR"
for what he has started on forums.

For every one reading this

Please help passively  edit the the shared
google rebuilder summary guide docs

and please add to them and make edits from best build knowledge

on every little thing you can like
spelling layout index's picture explanations practical explanation of
basic and how applied etc etc to keep it clear and simple Shared in google  docs
from lattest Stan knowledge

Every little bit of editing helps Guides  move along.
 
And making it a world resource for others to instantly shared it
 to jump start further ahead on understanding and rebuilding Stan's work and further development or part building from we have done. To make it easy again for us all
 
Every Little step and build instruction
 for testing or designs specs measurement etc Is very valuable

List education and testing videos links to 2-3 cloud stores  for video back ups etc
What a Resource for the new comer!!

It puts newbies ahead from step one.
and helps keep the best  current knowledge as a speedy guide..

We never know when angels will call us as they did Stan and really
the world needs to start teaching this from the forums advances
as we go to mechanics  now.

More and people with learn and share and get involved
as Stan's always tried to do.

Which is a statement in itself as we
today can work it out and start again from work he did sharing it.

===============================
please click here
Link to google docs  and edit them and share them invite others
and other forums we have over 1000 people on this now nearly full time you know that!!!!!.

Stans Parts rebuild guides
open source guides  from current know how and forums work GLOBAL.

http://open-source-energy.org/?tid=394

Please invite others you know have had success in the sections
and have solid info worked out in there heads and in practice
to help edit guides with pics info and explanations in more detail.

For example what coils do and theory stan used in vic
simplified  would be a great start. to jump other ahead,

every little edit helps

Dan:)

I cant find that SCR c38M in my country....i have all the parts but no scr:(( anyone knows an equivalent for that?

Quote from adys15 on March 27th, 2012, 02:46 PM

I cant find that SCR c38M in my country....i have all the parts but no scr:(( anyone knows an equivalent for that?

NTE5547 is the replacement, but you need to watch my video I built this and it had problems. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3dwonCXH5EI&list=UU5MWkMsbXeqTSQGihR0is1Q&index=27&feature=plcp

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 27th, 2012, 03:09 PM

Quote from adys15 on March 27th, 2012, 02:46 PM

I cant find that SCR c38M in my country....i have all the parts but no scr:(( anyone knows an equivalent for that?

NTE5547 is the replacement, but you need to watch my video I built this and it had problems. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3dwonCXH5EI&list=UU5MWkMsbXeqTSQGihR0is1Q&index=27&feature=plcp

thanks,but how how about the scr ''mosfet''loking,I saw ironmax use one,but no description,do you know some equivalent for those

Quote from adys15 on March 28th, 2012, 02:32 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 27th, 2012, 03:09 PM

Quote from adys15 on March 27th, 2012, 02:46 PM

I cant find that SCR c38M in my country....i have all the parts but no scr:(( anyone knows an equivalent for that?

NTE5547 is the replacement, but you need to watch my video I built this and it had problems. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3dwonCXH5EI&list=UU5MWkMsbXeqTSQGihR0is1Q&index=27&feature=plcp

thanks,but how how about the scr ''mosfet''loking,I saw ironmax use one,but no description,do you know some equivalent for those

Yes, would be a better choice, I'll have to research it and get back with you, unless someone like Russ, or Tony Woodside would know, and have a schematic for it.

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 28th, 2012, 02:56 PM

Quote from adys15 on March 28th, 2012, 02:32 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 27th, 2012, 03:09 PM

Quote from adys15 on March 27th, 2012, 02:46 PM

I cant find that SCR c38M in my country....i have all the parts but no scr:(( anyone knows an equivalent for that?

NTE5547 is the replacement, but you need to watch my video I built this and it had problems. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3dwonCXH5EI&list=UU5MWkMsbXeqTSQGihR0is1Q&index=27&feature=plcp

thanks,but how how about the scr ''mosfet''loking,I saw ironmax use one,but no description,do you know some equivalent for those

Yes, would be a better choice, I'll have to research it and get back with you, unless someone like Russ, or Tony Woodside would know, and have a schematic for it.

You might talk with Tony at this link,
http://www.globalkast.com/products.htm
see if he can help with this.

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 28th, 2012, 07:59 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 28th, 2012, 02:56 PM

Quote from adys15 on March 28th, 2012, 02:32 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 27th, 2012, 03:09 PM

Quote from adys15 on March 27th, 2012, 02:46 PM

I cant find that SCR c38M in my country....i have all the parts but no scr:(( anyone knows an equivalent for that?

NTE5547 is the replacement, but you need to watch my video I built this and it had problems. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3dwonCXH5EI&list=UU5MWkMsbXeqTSQGihR0is1Q&index=27&feature=plcp

thanks,but how how about the scr ''mosfet''loking,I saw ironmax use one,but no description,do you know some equivalent for those

Yes, would be a better choice, I'll have to research it and get back with you, unless someone like Russ, or Tony Woodside would know, and have a schematic for it.

You might talk with Tony at this link,
http://www.globalkast.com/products.htm
see if he can help with this.

This might help as well  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8WL2O56DY68
 look at the mosfet he is using.

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 28th, 2012, 08:32 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 28th, 2012, 07:59 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 28th, 2012, 02:56 PM

Quote from adys15 on March 28th, 2012, 02:32 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 27th, 2012, 03:09 PM

NTE5547 is the replacement, but you need to watch my video I built this and it had problems. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3dwonCXH5EI&list=UU5MWkMsbXeqTSQGihR0is1Q&index=27&feature=plcp

thanks,but how how about the scr ''mosfet''loking,I saw ironmax use one,but no description,do you know some equivalent for those

Yes, would be a better choice, I'll have to research it and get back with you, unless someone like Russ, or Tony Woodside would know, and have a schematic for it.

You might talk with Tony at this link,
http://www.globalkast.com/products.htm
see if he can help with this.

This might help as well  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8WL2O56DY68
 look at the mosfet he is using.

thanks  very for reply's,the scr i am talking about is a HV diode that looks like a mosfet but is not a mosfet

Quote from adys15 on March 29th, 2012, 10:56 AM

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 28th, 2012, 08:32 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 28th, 2012, 07:59 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on March 28th, 2012, 02:56 PM

Quote from adys15 on March 28th, 2012, 02:32 PM

thanks,but how how about the scr ''mosfet''loking,I saw ironmax use one,but no description,do you know some equivalent for those

Yes, would be a better choice, I'll have to research it and get back with you, unless someone like Russ, or Tony Woodside would know, and have a schematic for it.

You might talk with Tony at this link,
http://www.globalkast.com/products.htm
see if he can help with this.

This might help as well  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8WL2O56DY68
 look at the mosfet he is using.

thanks  very for reply's,the scr i am talking about is a HV diode that looks like a mosfet but is not a mosfet

The SCR c38M, does not shut off quick enough, when pulse is low, it stays on so no pulsing after the scr, so that means you would need a mosfet , for fast switching and high voltage, possibly like the one in the last video I posted to you. Other than that you should PM Sharky or webmug and see what they would suggest.

Sorry I thought you dont understand my question,yes Dave told me also i could use a transistor,IRF840 is rated 500v 8A i could use that?And another Q: in the 8xa skematic after the scr there is 1188 diode,can i use  a more ''regular'' diode like 1n4007,how many amps would be between 1188 and the chokes?

Quote from adys15 on March 29th, 2012, 11:55 AM

Sorry I thought you dont understand my question,yes Dave told me also i could use a transistor,IRF840 is rated 500v 8A i could use that?And another Q: in the 8xa skematic after the scr there is 1188 diode,can i use  a more ''regular'' diode like 1n4007,how many amps would be between 1188 and the chokes?

All I would do there is substitute a suitable replacement, value for value. I did use an NTE5990.

Today i finished the 8xa circuit board based on this skematic(see att)looks  identic to 8xa circuit board from estate,i started it and nothing happened,no led blink no nothing.when i put the + terminal on pin 1 of 7490 pulses but when i put on pin 3 of 555 the led stais on...is it right?should not be blinking?You guys from what skematic have builted it?

Quote from adys15 on April 1st, 2012, 12:35 PM

Today i finished the 8xa circuit board based on this skematic(see att)looks  identic to 8xa circuit board from estate,i started it and nothing happened,no led blink no nothing.when i put the + terminal on pin 1 of 7490 pulses but when i put on pin 3 of 555 the led stais on...is it right?should not be blinking?You guys from what skematic have builted it?

Hi adys15 , I used this exact schematic you have, all blink and work except for the scr, will not shut down, to slow, linked here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3dwonCXH5EI&list=UU5MWkMsbXeqTSQGihR0is1Q&index=27&feature=plcp
watch this video to see how it works, Jeff.:D

Quote from Jeff Nading on April 1st, 2012, 01:38 PM

Quote from adys15 on April 1st, 2012, 12:35 PM

Today i finished the 8xa circuit board based on this skematic(see att)looks  identic to 8xa circuit board from estate,i started it and nothing happened,no led blink no nothing.when i put the + terminal on pin 1 of 7490 pulses but when i put on pin 3 of 555 the led stais on...is it right?should not be blinking?You guys from what skematic have builted it?

Hi adys15 , I used this exact schematic you have, all blink and work except for the scr, will not shut down, to slow, linked here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3dwonCXH5EI&list=UU5MWkMsbXeqTSQGihR0is1Q&index=27&feature=plcp
watch this video to see how it works, Jeff.:D

Jeff i built it on a breadboard so imagine how many little wires whore there conecting the ic pins :)) so must  be mistaking some pin ,i will bild a pcb becuse is much easier to work on it,any ideea how to hook a mosfet pins instead of a scr?I have a irf240
200V 18A,is any good?i saw stan uses 2n6676 or 2n6496,see att

Quote from adys15 on April 2nd, 2012, 12:53 AM

Quote from Jeff Nading on April 1st, 2012, 01:38 PM

Quote from adys15 on April 1st, 2012, 12:35 PM

Today i finished the 8xa circuit board based on this skematic(see att)looks  identic to 8xa circuit board from estate,i started it and nothing happened,no led blink no nothing.when i put the + terminal on pin 1 of 7490 pulses but when i put on pin 3 of 555 the led stais on...is it right?should not be blinking?You guys from what skematic have builted it?

Hi adys15 , I used this exact schematic you have, all blink and work except for the scr, will not shut down, to slow, linked here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3dwonCXH5EI&list=UU5MWkMsbXeqTSQGihR0is1Q&index=27&feature=plcp
watch this video to see how it works, Jeff.:D

Jeff i built it on a breadboard so imagine how many little wires whore there conecting the ic pins :)) so must  be mistaking some pin ,i will bild a pcb becuse is much easier to work on it,any ideea how to hook a mosfet pins instead of a scr?I have a irf240
200V 18A,is any good?i saw stan uses 2n6676 or 2n6496,see att

Yes that might work, lets see what sharky comes up with on the other thread we are both on, thanks.:D

Quote from Jeff Nading on April 2nd, 2012, 05:56 AM

Quote from adys15 on April 2nd, 2012, 12:53 AM

Quote from Jeff Nading on April 1st, 2012, 01:38 PM

Quote from adys15 on April 1st, 2012, 12:35 PM

Today i finished the 8xa circuit board based on this skematic(see att)looks  identic to 8xa circuit board from estate,i started it and nothing happened,no led blink no nothing.when i put the + terminal on pin 1 of 7490 pulses but when i put on pin 3 of 555 the led stais on...is it right?should not be blinking?You guys from what skematic have builted it?

Hi adys15 , I used this exact schematic you have, all blink and work except for the scr, will not shut down, to slow, linked here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3dwonCXH5EI&list=UU5MWkMsbXeqTSQGihR0is1Q&index=27&feature=plcp
watch this video to see how it works, Jeff.:D

Jeff i built it on a breadboard so imagine how many little wires whore there conecting the ic pins :)) so must  be mistaking some pin ,i will bild a pcb becuse is much easier to work on it,any ideea how to hook a mosfet pins instead of a scr?I have a irf240
200V 18A,is any good?i saw stan uses 2n6676 or 2n6496,see att

Yes that might work, lets see what sharky comes up with on the other thread we are both on, thanks.:D

Better reply here since we are dealing with the 8XA here :).

You do need to decide of you will use a power transistor or mosfet. They are not interchangable since their workings are different. A power transistor is driven with a current at its base while a mosfet is voltage driven at its gate. Having a quick look at the irf240 datasheet it needs a 2-4 volts at its gate to turn it on. Current should be no more than a few miliamps, say 10mA so connecting it in place of the transistor from the 9xa pdf schematic will blow it up.

Anyway to use a mosfet i uploaded an example on how it should work. The 4001 is not actually needed but helps in getting a nice and clean signal into the mosfet.

Quote from Sharky on April 2nd, 2012, 07:48 AM

Quote from Jeff Nading on April 2nd, 2012, 05:56 AM

Quote from adys15 on April 2nd, 2012, 12:53 AM

Quote from Jeff Nading on April 1st, 2012, 01:38 PM

Quote from adys15 on April 1st, 2012, 12:35 PM

Today i finished the 8xa circuit board based on this skematic(see att)looks  identic to 8xa circuit board from estate,i started it and nothing happened,no led blink no nothing.when i put the + terminal on pin 1 of 7490 pulses but when i put on pin 3 of 555 the led stais on...is it right?should not be blinking?You guys from what skematic have builted it?

Hi adys15 , I used this exact schematic you have, all blink and work except for the scr, will not shut down, to slow, linked here

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3dwonCXH5EI&list=UU5MWkMsbXeqTSQGihR0is1Q&index=27&feature=plcp
watch this video to see how it works, Jeff.:D

Jeff i built it on a breadboard so imagine how many little wires whore there conecting the ic pins :)) so must  be mistaking some pin ,i will bild a pcb becuse is much easier to work on it,any ideea how to hook a mosfet pins instead of a scr?I have a irf240
200V 18A,is any good?i saw stan uses 2n6676 or 2n6496,see att

Yes that might work, lets see what sharky comes up with on the other thread we are both on, thanks.:D

Better reply here since we are dealing with the 8XA here :).

You do need to decide of you will use a power transistor or mosfet. They are not interchangable since their workings are different. A power transistor is driven with a current at its base while a mosfet is voltage driven at its gate. Having a quick look at the irf240 datasheet it needs a 2-4 volts at its gate to turn it on. Current should be no more than a few miliamps, say 10mA so connecting it in place of the transistor from the 9xa pdf schematic will blow it up.

Anyway to use a mosfet i uploaded an example on how it should work. The 4001 is not actually needed but helps in getting a nice and clean signal into the mosfet.

Thanks sharky, I'll look at some data sheets tonight and see which would be the best to use, what would you think about a triac q4040j7, I have not looked at a data sheet on it yet?

Hola,
una consulta
porque en el circuito 8xa se han colocado 3 CI 7490, cuando en el original de S. Meyer son 4 CI 7490
gracias

Hello,
a query
because the circuit has been placed 8xa 3 CI 7490, when the original S. Meyer is 4 CI 7490
thanks

Hy guys do you know how to hookup the scope on the 8xa board?
i connected the pozitive on 4x,3x,2x...and groud to board ground and i god something weird like this

Quote from adys15 on May 5th, 2012, 06:19 AM

Hy guys do you know how to hookup the scope on the 8xa board?
i connected the pozitive on 4x,3x,2x...and groud to board ground and i god something weird like this

You are hooking up your scope correctly. But remember the scope lead is not a ground it is a Reference

Ya somthing is not right there, It may just be that your need some .1uf caps between your chips

http://open-source-energy.org/?tid=178
The rusttic circuit uses the same configuration.

http://open-source-energy.org/rwg42985/russ/russtic_testfiles/SCH/Russtic%20WFC%20Freq%20Gen%20SCH%20V7.0.jpg

U1 is the 555 and U2, U3, U4 are the divider chips

C5,C6,C7 and C8 are the filter caps between chips. Ideally, you should have one on every ic chip. they should be as close to the ic chip as possible

You can see them all here
http://open-source-energy.org/rwg42985/russ/russtic_testfiles/Russtic_FG_V7.0_Build%206.jpg

Quote from KevinW-dirtwill on May 5th, 2012, 09:44 AM

Quote from adys15 on May 5th, 2012, 06:19 AM

Hy guys do you know how to hookup the scope on the 8xa board?
i connected the pozitive on 4x,3x,2x...and groud to board ground and i god something weird like this

You are hooking up your scope correctly. But remember the scope lead is not a ground it is a Reference

Ya somthing is not right there, It may just be that your need some .1uf caps between your chips

http://open-source-energy.org/?tid=178
The rusttic circuit uses the same configuration.

http://open-source-energy.org/rwg42985/russ/russtic_testfiles/SCH/Russtic%20WFC%20Freq%20Gen%20SCH%20V7.0.jpg

U1 is the 555 and U2, U3, U4 are the divider chips

C5,C6,C7 and C8 are the filter caps between chips. Ideally, you should have one on every ic chip. they should be as close to the ic chip as possible

You can see them all here
http://open-source-energy.org/rwg42985/russ/russtic_testfiles/Russtic_FG_V7.0_Build%206.jpg

Thanks verry much Kevin but the original 8xa did not have caps between IC's,I think the 7404 output is not conected corectly in my skematic,,,

Quote from adys15 on May 5th, 2012, 10:38 AM

Quote from KevinW-dirtwill on May 5th, 2012, 09:44 AM

Quote from adys15 on May 5th, 2012, 06:19 AM

Hy guys do you know how to hookup the scope on the 8xa board?
i connected the pozitive on 4x,3x,2x...and groud to board ground and i god something weird like this

You are hooking up your scope correctly. But remember the scope lead is not a ground it is a Reference

Ya somthing is not right there, It may just be that your need some .1uf caps between your chips

http://open-source-energy.org/?tid=178
The rusttic circuit uses the same configuration.

http://open-source-energy.org/rwg42985/russ/russtic_testfiles/SCH/Russtic%20WFC%20Freq%20Gen%20SCH%20V7.0.jpg

U1 is the 555 and U2, U3, U4 are the divider chips

C5,C6,C7 and C8 are the filter caps between chips. Ideally, you should have one on every ic chip. they should be as close to the ic chip as possible

You can see them all here
http://open-source-energy.org/rwg42985/russ/russtic_testfiles/Russtic_FG_V7.0_Build%206.jpg

Thanks verry much Kevin but the original 8xa did not have caps between IC's,I think the 7404 output is not conected corectly in my skematic,,,

you might have a bad chip thats what was wrong with mine  7490