Here are three realy good videos from ZennmasterM for setting up ones printer for auto bed leveling. The Delta style printers will have different settings.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=awsI9bMndJA#ws

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6msLOR_EfKc#ws

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YpiOsetkIRg#ws

Here are some other links for parts and prints of parts.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400471432862?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
http://www.newark.com/omron-electronic-components/ss-5/micro-switch-pin-plunger-spdt/dp/36K7635
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:263180
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:379784
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:182889

Delta print here:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:161753
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:111397
http://www.marcoantonini.eu/doku.php?id=reprap:rostock:bed_level

nice ill use this reference in my upgrade! good info!

~Russ

Say Russ you might have a look at these two also, you'll need them for your upgrade

From what I have been able to find out through my searching is that this marlin version here is the one to use for a delta printer, there is not much you will need to do to configure, other than nozzle to bed hight close to 400mm, then offsets and tuning. 
https://github.com/RichCattell/Marlin-1
http://open-source-energy.org/?topic=2036.0

This one you will be able to make a bootable USB thumb drive, download the software from the links within, you will be amazed at pronterface, what it will be able to do for you.
http://open-source-energy.org/?topic=2105.0

thanks,

yeah i have used pronterface but i like the PC free deal... i can access everything with the integrated LCD / SD jobie

but i will use the info for the upgrade. i hope to do soon.

new gears ( 20T), possibly extruder replacement on a gantry thing...  and for sure auto bed leveling...

Yes, I plan on using my display and not the PC as well, but you will need to upgrade the Ardiuno and Marlin software, configure then tune again, The pronterface here is for tuning it all, it will make it much easier to tune and adjust without uploading to the Arduino board every time you make a change, if I am understanding this correctly. You can make a change and save the change with just g-code commands. Using this Pronterface will take much of the work out of setting things up.

i see,

cool ,im hopping i dont need to do that.
every change i have maid in the past never saved to the firmware and on next power up its all back to the orgnail.
FYI

~Russ

I've been sending my calibrations through pronterface to the firmware.  I have to redo it every time I power down.  I seem to have lost my original arduino file, just don't feel like redoing it all. lol

ok jeff,

where do i set up the Z probe stuff? i cant seem to find it? where do i put the input ECT. i cant seem to find what im looking for.. ill keep looking..

~Russ

Ok, look at where the z endstops connected, this is where the z probe is connected in this photo, it shoulhd be the same , I know you don't have a switch and using the hall effect , so you will have + - and sence, just connect the wires accordingly.

thanks Jeff,

so i have already a Z switch. so i guess its the other Z.. ok.

ok jeff, is there any other auto cal delta marlin versions out there?

this one 1.04 seems to be ok but just dose not cal very well IMO

and the development version seems to be working a lot better but gets 1/2 way through an auto cal and just freaks out.

its trying to adjust to much a once and gets its self way off... lol

so i can print stuff with ether version... but the auto cal... man i wish there was another version.

what happend to Johan's version?

~Russ

To my knowledge there are no other versions with the auto calibrate funtction, Johan's not near there yet. I've gotton most of my information from the Google Delta forum

https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/deltabot

A few there will help, also I did a search there could help.
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!searchin/deltabot/auto$20calibrate
 I'm not there yet, still building my all metal hotend and fan setup for it. Been gone most of the weekend, just had no time.

ok thanks jeff,

it seems to try and try and try... and the end its never correct but i will say that it seams to calibrate something...

i feel it did some good but at the end i still have to adjust the bed my hand... although it helped calibrate the " flatness" the " cone shape problem "  that can acure.

even tho i disagree with the numbers like the dignial rod length... i know its 250 mill but it keeps adjusting it to around 257... but it adjusts the delta radius i guess to account for its adjustments...

i guess the only thing it dose right is " squares up" the bed... but it dose not finish with a " level" bed i still need to adjust it by hand...

but that's the easy part... took me 3 months to get it right... it kinda fixed it in about an hr... lol

~Russ

found that g29 is Johan's calibrate and g30 is rich's...  but i m still looking on how johan's changes stuff... ??

Did the search info I sent you help, looked like it would have. Yes g30. Hows it looking now Russ, have you tryed a print yet?

it did help. still poking around in there.

unfortently i can seem to find an " auto cal" function witht he G29 code.

the g30 i have let run over and over and it jsut dose not work...

lol

it gets to 99 tries takes about 30 min or more and gives up...

i did open the window of probing to see if that helps... no good. even set it at .075mm cal.. still wont cal.

altho i can see it has been trying and it dose help...

one corner of my bed never is wright. although it could be a gear / mechanical problem. it allays has had a small problem like such... i will look for other problems. like an out of round hear ECT.

i can print with it...

but i like the new version of teh auto cal.. guess it jsut needs some more work... its not an official release.

~Russ

There is a calibration video on YT, I don't like it much cause there is no talking, I'll see if I can find it and post it here.

yeah i mean it is trying to calibrate...

after printing some more stuff i dough its ability to " measure the dimensions" as its adjusting the diagonal rod length ECT... i know for a fact my length is 250mm but to calibrate it's self its thinking 255-260... im not sure what gives?

any how.. if i get to see it truly auto cal and finish its cal i may trust it. thus far it has not been able to do so...

more today...

working on extruder parts... so testing its print ability too...

~Russ

Russ just thought I would share this, it's from Richie C. Stating why the Z probe does multiple taps and why It gave up after a while.
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/deltabot/SrmxHMxdgBE[1-25-false]

https://github.com/RichCattell/Marlin/releases

RichieC    

It does multiple taps to improve the accuracy of the reading from the z-probe. It will tap each point repeatedly until it gets the same reading twice in a row, if a point is being tapped more than twice then it means that your z-probe is not producing consistent results. After 20 taps if it still has not got 2 consistent results it will give up and use the last value that it got from the probe for that point, so if you are getting a constantly large number of taps at each point then you need to improve the accuracy of your z-probe.

thanks jeff!

yeah i figured this is what it was doing but its not that it checks a lot in one spot, its just that it checks adjust, over and over till it reaches 99 times...

not in one spot but the entire calibration process.

?

illl read the links

thanks! 

Well mine went to 99 as well after I punched in M30 A.  Did you manually calibrate?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0kQ5muUqyk#ws

After all of that punched in M500 command and pronterface would not save the new calibrations, go figure.
 So on to manual calibration.

Starting to sound like you guys need to dig into the code and make this contraption behave the way you want.

Here are good reasons why we are seeing 99 iterations with the G30 A command.
After 99 iterations it stops, regardless of how accurate the solution it found was.
Usually this is because there is some play/slop in your printer's z-probe or effector or frame, etc. and it cannot get accurate results.
You could try to examine your printer (push on the effector and see if it gives at all), or you could try "G30 E" a few times (which probes the bed and reports what it measures) to see how much variation there is, and set your precision value to be larger than the variations you observe.

This was posted to me by Haydn Huntley  on the Google Delta forum, makes good since.

yeah thats what i had to do was up the cal number as i posted on your comments for your video,

i can get more detailed if you need me to but just change the auto-cal number to something bigger till it works.

i still had to manually set my bed level...

~Russ

I did change the precision in auto cal, then was able to save the calibrations after running auto cal again, but the calibrations were so far off I started over using the M502 [set it back to default] command, then manually calibrating. :D