open-source-energy.org

Sweet!  I'm interested to see how well these will work.  Ya definitely get a lot more print area.  Can't wait to see the Russ version.:D

Quote from firepinto on December 19th, 2012, 02:55 PM

Sweet!  I'm interested to see how well these will work.  Ya definitely get a lot more print area.  Can't wait to see the Russ version.:D

200mm X 200 mm x 400mm is what it's spect at. ( Printable area)  

What is your model?

well. with the help if Jeff and the interesting works of Firepinto...

after dwelling about building a different 3D printer with the plastic parts donated by jeff ...
i found this:



http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17175
http://reprap.org/wiki/Rostock

i have been gathering the parts up so i can build a Rostock Delta 3D Printer. it just looks so much easier less parts less craziness and look sleek and easy to find room for it. ( thanks to Jeff for trading my donated parts out for new ones)

i will update this when i get all the parts.

This will be a huge help in prototyping ideas and also just building stuff!! ( jeff donated the plastic parts about a year ago... lol)

Thanks Jeff for the parts!!!

here is also another of the same type:



the cool thing is you can buy it here:
http://shop.seemecnc.com/Rostock-MAX-3D-Printer-Kit-68398.htm

OR BEST OF ALL Build it for your self!!! all open source!!! here is all the stuff you need in this folder: (including all drawings and info)
http://seemecnc.org/download/RostockMAX/

cool! hope to have all the parts soon and will make a video when i do...

:) ~Russ

PS. Jeff can you upload the parts you printed here? :)

You should be able to build this printer for about $500.00, if you use the links I have for the complete electronics kit which will include the heated bed, display SD card reader and stepper motors, which I have posted in this link here
http://open-source-energy.org/?tid=376

Quote from Jeff Nading on December 19th, 2012, 07:48 PM

You should be able to build this printer for about $500.00, if you use the links I have for the complete electronics kit which will include the heated bed, display SD card reader and stepper motors, which I have posted in this link here
http://open-source-energy.org/?tid=376

here is a list of materials https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AihVdu60WUfgdG9PY3B1Tk1GaVA4TTA1djRDT0xkLXc#gid=0

its a "work in progress" and the numbers for price are probably close to 700-800. even after looking for deals and such i found that eBay. (look for free shipping) is the best place to buy stuff as every little part you pay shipping on really brings up the price... i would say 500-600-700 with no shipping costs calculated in may be a better guess...

any how nice work Jeff!!

200x200x100mm hummmm. so tall is the prob. ok. cool!!!

i think i will also try to attach different things to the head and make this a versatile tool! :)

YEAH! ~Russ

Say Russ, with this printer, I think one would be able to mount a little dremel tool, like you could buy from Harbor Freight, to drill PCB's.
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/rotary-tools.html
You could draw a circuit on a board. Maybe even cut etchings in them, but would have to test that to see if it would work.:cool::D:P

Quote from ~Russ/Rwg42985 link=msg=

i think i will also try to attach different things to the head and make this a versatile tool! :)

YEAH! ~Russ
[/quote

Say Russ, with this printer, I think one would be able to mount a little dremel tool, like you could buy from Harbor Freight, to drill PCB's.
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/rotary-tools.html
You could draw a circuit on a board. Maybe even cut etchings in them, but would have to test that to see if it would work.:cool::D:P

yes I'm thinking. PCB's, Vinyl stickers, flat wood/plastic milling (small easy pieces) at slow speeds a tinny milled on a high speed dremel  could work! (a dremel  like the ones with a long flexible lead on it so the end has no weight. i think with the right gearing this could work, no prob.

what is different from the hot end in the photo and the hot end you sent me?

i see a block of AL and i guess the thermal resister goes in the block? or is that a heat sink?

PS what tool did you use to cut the little barbed piece for the extruder? i plan on adding a bearing. the OD is slightly to big and needs to be trimmed down, ( its to tight with my motors?!?!) but that no prob. i plan on trimming it to add a bearing. i have a selection of small bearings in stock. :) (recycled goods)

nice work on that little part. i was impressed! :)
~Russ

Quote from Jeff Nading on December 21st, 2012, 05:31 AM

Quote from ~Russ/Rwg42985 link=msg=

i think i will also try to attach different things to the head and make this a versatile tool! :)

YEAH! ~Russ
[/quote

Say Russ, with this printer, I think one would be able to mount a little dremel tool, like you could buy from Harbor Freight, to drill PCB's.
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/rotary-tools.html
You could draw a circuit on a board. Maybe even cut etchings in them, but would have to test that to see if it would work.:cool::D:P

yes I'm thinking. PCB's, Vinyl stickers, flat wood/plastic milling (small easy pieces) at slow speeds a tinny milled on a high speed dremel  could work! (a dremel  like the ones with a long flexible lead on it so the end has no weight. i think with the right gearing this could work, no prob.

what is different from the hot end in the photo and the hot end you sent me?

i see a block of AL and i guess the thermal resister goes in the block? or is that a heat sink?

PS what tool did you use to cut the little barbed piece for the extruder? i plan on adding a bearing. the OD is slightly to big and needs to be trimmed down, ( its to tight with my motors?!?!) but that no prob. i plan on trimming it to add a bearing. i have a selection of small bearings in stock. :) (recycled goods)

nice work on that little part. i was impressed! :)
~Russ

Russ in the link I posted for H Freight they have a flex shaft in that same link. The hotend I sent you has a different arrangement for the element, they are hard to make so I came up with my own design or style element that doesn't take three days to make. I machine an aluminum block to fit the element I also make, so now I can make a complete hotend in one day, not three. The aluminum block becomes the heating element they work very well, I am very pleased with them.
   On the hobbed tube or barb as you call it, I take a solid piece of rod, drill a 5 mm hole through the length of it, centered. I made an arbor 5 mm diameter that mounts to the crossfeed of my lathe, chuck up a 6 mm tap in the three jaw chuck, slide the tube onto the arbor vertically, spaced so as to have the barb in the exact right place, then move the crossfeed into the tap as the tap is spinning in the lathe.
    You will have to spin the tube some to get the tap to start cutting around the tube, once the cut is made all the way around the tube it should start to turn on it's own from the tap turning. If you watch video 7.5 in my series it will give you an idea of  how to do it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0aZEXzT-m4&list=UU5MWkMsbXeqTSQGihR0is1Q&index=2

I guess what you want to do is not drill the solid shaft all the way through so you can turn one end down to fit the bearing you have. Or you could just turn the length of the tube down on the one I sent you, put a shaft in it that will fit the bearing you have and lock it in place with an allen screw.:D

Quote from ~Russ/Rwg42985 on December 21st, 2012, 09:21 AM

Quote from Jeff Nading on December 21st, 2012, 05:31 AM

Quote from ~Russ/Rwg42985 link=msg=

i think i will also try to attach different things to the head and make this a versatile tool! :)

YEAH! ~Russ
[/quote

Say Russ, with this printer, I think one would be able to mount a little dremel tool, like you could buy from Harbor Freight, to drill PCB's.
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/rotary-tools.html
You could draw a circuit on a board. Maybe even cut etchings in them, but would have to test that to see if it would work.:cool::D:P

yes I'm thinking. PCB's, Vinyl stickers, flat wood/plastic milling (small easy pieces) at slow speeds a tinny milled on a high speed dremel  could work! (a dremel  like the ones with a long flexible lead on it so the end has no weight. i think with the right gearing this could work, no prob.

what is different from the hot end in the photo and the hot end you sent me?

i see a block of AL and i guess the thermal resister goes in the block? or is that a heat sink?

PS what tool did you use to cut the little barbed piece for the extruder? i plan on adding a bearing. the OD is slightly to big and needs to be trimmed down, ( its to tight with my motors?!?!) but that no prob. i plan on trimming it to add a bearing. i have a selection of small bearings in stock. :) (recycled goods)

nice work on that little part. i was impressed! :)
~Russ

Russ in the link I posted for H Freight they have a flex shaft in that same link. The hotend I sent you has a different arrangement for the element, they are hard to make so I came up with my own design or style element that doesn't take three days to make. I machine an aluminum block to fit the element I also make, so now I can make a complete hotend in one day, not three. The aluminum block becomes the heating element they work very well, I am very pleased with them.
   On the hobbed tube or barb as you call it, I take a solid piece of rod, drill a 5 mm hole through the length of it, centered. I made an arbor 5 mm diameter that mounts to the crossfeed of my lathe, chuck up a 6 mm tap in the three jaw chuck, slide the tube onto the arbor vertically, spaced so as to have the barb in the exact right place, then move the crossfeed into the tap as the tap is spinning in the lathe.
    You will have to spin the tube some to get the tap to start cutting around the tube, once the cut is made all the way around the tube it should start to turn on it's own from the tap turning. If you watch video 7.5 in my series it will give you an idea of  how to do it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0aZEXzT-m4&list=UU5MWkMsbXeqTSQGihR0is1Q&index=2

I guess what you want to do is not drill the solid shaft all the way through so you can turn one end down to fit the bearing you have. Or you could just turn the length of the tube down on the one I sent you, put a shaft in it that will fit the bearing you have and lock it in place with an allen screw.:D

Ok cool! Yeah I prob will just fill it in with weld and turn it down! ;) also. Is it steal? Or stainless? Thanks!!! ~Russ

Quote from Jeff Nading on December 21st, 2012, 01:29 PM

Quote from ~Russ/Rwg42985 on December 21st, 2012, 09:21 AM

Quote from Jeff Nading on December 21st, 2012, 05:31 AM

Quote from ~Russ/Rwg42985 link=msg=

i think i will also try to attach different things to the head and make this a versatile tool! :)

YEAH! ~Russ
[/quote

Say Russ, with this printer, I think one would be able to mount a little dremel tool, like you could buy from Harbor Freight, to drill PCB's.
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/rotary-tools.html
You could draw a circuit on a board. Maybe even cut etchings in them, but would have to test that to see if it would work.:cool::D:P

yes I'm thinking. PCB's, Vinyl stickers, flat wood/plastic milling (small easy pieces) at slow speeds a tinny milled on a high speed dremel  could work! (a dremel  like the ones with a long flexible lead on it so the end has no weight. i think with the right gearing this could work, no prob.

what is different from the hot end in the photo and the hot end you sent me?

i see a block of AL and i guess the thermal resister goes in the block? or is that a heat sink?

PS what tool did you use to cut the little barbed piece for the extruder? i plan on adding a bearing. the OD is slightly to big and needs to be trimmed down, ( its to tight with my motors?!?!) but that no prob. i plan on trimming it to add a bearing. i have a selection of small bearings in stock. :) (recycled goods)

nice work on that little part. i was impressed! :)
~Russ

Russ in the link I posted for H Freight they have a flex shaft in that same link. The hotend I sent you has a different arrangement for the element, they are hard to make so I came up with my own design or style element that doesn't take three days to make. I machine an aluminum block to fit the element I also make, so now I can make a complete hotend in one day, not three. The aluminum block becomes the heating element they work very well, I am very pleased with them.
   On the hobbed tube or barb as you call it, I take a solid piece of rod, drill a 5 mm hole through the length of it, centered. I made an arbor 5 mm diameter that mounts to the crossfeed of my lathe, chuck up a 6 mm tap in the three jaw chuck, slide the tube onto the arbor vertically, spaced so as to have the barb in the exact right place, then move the crossfeed into the tap as the tap is spinning in the lathe.
    You will have to spin the tube some to get the tap to start cutting around the tube, once the cut is made all the way around the tube it should start to turn on it's own from the tap turning. If you watch video 7.5 in my series it will give you an idea of  how to do it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0aZEXzT-m4&list=UU5MWkMsbXeqTSQGihR0is1Q&index=2

I guess what you want to do is not drill the solid shaft all the way through so you can turn one end down to fit the bearing you have. Or you could just turn the length of the tube down on the one I sent you, put a shaft in it that will fit the bearing you have and lock it in place with an allen screw.:D

Ok cool! Yeah I prob will just fill it in with weld and turn it down! ;) also. Is it steal? Or stainless? Thanks!!! ~Russ

I think it's steel Russ, just put a magnet to it, if it attracts then it's steel. If the magnet doesn't attract then it's SS, either way it should still be weldable. :D

Say Russ, have you found the 5 mm rods yet?
   I have a friend that gave me 1/4" diameter fiberglass rods. I cut them to length and turned each end on my lathe to make them fit the yokes.
   I'll just glue them in, now I have some to build the Rostock myself, when I have some money.
Also the hobbed tube I sent you is SS.

Quote from Jeff Nading on December 22nd, 2012, 02:41 PM

Say Russ, have you found the 5 mm rods yet?
   I have a friend that gave me 1/4" diameter fiberglass rods. I cut them to length and turned each end on my lathe to make them fit the yokes.
   I'll just glue them in, now I have some to build the Rostock myself, when I have some money.
Also the hobbed tube I sent you is SS.

Jeff, yes I found some 5.3 or 5.2mm carbon fiber rods on eBay. In fact I found the last 6 or so parts on eBay. All free shipping.. So now the wait begins... The last thing is bolts an nuts. I think I'm just going to go to my local ace and get each bolt I need... Seems buying just 2 or 10 p each one is not an option. It's 100 or nothing! Lol ( I have a lot of small hardware I'm going to try to make work...)

Quote from ~Russ/Rwg42985 on December 22nd, 2012, 03:27 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on December 22nd, 2012, 02:41 PM

Say Russ, have you found the 5 mm rods yet?
   I have a friend that gave me 1/4" diameter fiberglass rods. I cut them to length and turned each end on my lathe to make them fit the yokes.
   I'll just glue them in, now I have some to build the Rostock myself, when I have some money.
Also the hobbed tube I sent you is SS.

Jeff, yes I found some 5.3 or 5.2mm carbon fiber rods on eBay. In fact I found the last 6 or so parts on eBay. All free shipping.. So now the wait begins... The last thing is bolts an nuts. I think I'm just going to go to my local ace and get each bolt I need... Seems buying just 2 or 10 p each one is not an option. It's 100 or nothing! Lol ( I have a lot of small hardware I'm going to try to make work...)

Yes when I built my first printer, I bought packages of 100 SS, of all hardware I needed. I went to a company called Fastenal, don't know if there in your area or not, but the prices were good.
     How long of a wait on shipping for all your parts?

Quote from Jeff Nading on December 22nd, 2012, 03:36 PM

Quote from ~Russ/Rwg42985 on December 22nd, 2012, 03:27 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on December 22nd, 2012, 02:41 PM

Say Russ, have you found the 5 mm rods yet?
   I have a friend that gave me 1/4" diameter fiberglass rods. I cut them to length and turned each end on my lathe to make them fit the yokes.
   I'll just glue them in, now I have some to build the Rostock myself, when I have some money.
Also the hobbed tube I sent you is SS.

Jeff, yes I found some 5.3 or 5.2mm carbon fiber rods on eBay. In fact I found the last 6 or so parts on eBay. All free shipping.. So now the wait begins... The last thing is bolts an nuts. I think I'm just going to go to my local ace and get each bolt I need... Seems buying just 2 or 10 p each one is not an option. It's 100 or nothing! Lol ( I have a lot of small hardware I'm going to try to make work...)

Yes when I built my first printer, I bought packages of 100 SS, of all hardware I needed. I went to a company called Fastenal, don't know if there in your area or not, but the prices were good.
     How long of a wait on shipping for all your parts?

Fastenal havs pretty expensive prices compared to what I found online. But if you want it right now they sometimes have it. My local stores do not have a lot of those small metric screws in stock...

There's a place that I purchased the screws for some of the stanly Meyer  cells. I'll need to look when I get home I cannot remember what the place was called

I paid slightly higher prices for things that will going to get here quicker. But when I say slightly higher I mean like less than $.50 or something

I should have all my orders in from eBay sometime before 5 Of next month.

I'm thinking that place I ordered screws from you could purchase individual pieces without buying an entire bag so when I get home I'll have to look again the prices were excellent.

Jeff,

check it:

Fasteners
M3 nuts
M3 washers
M3x12 mm screws
M3x20 mm screws
M4x40 mm screws for plywood mounting
M8x35 mm screws for 608 ball bearings
M8 washers
M8 nuts (one is for bowden cable holder)

i added some extra and some longer than specified...

OK so I'm not even going to look at Fastenal but u bet it would be over 125$ easy to but from them. ( and get less)

here it is:

Code: [Select]

M8 Flat Washer A2 Stainless Steel $0.036 $3.60
M8 x 1.25 Hex Nut A2 Stainless Steel $0.1155 $5.775
M8 x 1.25 x 35 Socket Head Cap Screw A2 Stainless $0.5486 $5.486
M4 x 0.7 x 45 Socket Head Cap Screw A2 Stainless $0.2099 $5.2475
M4 x 0.7 Hex Nut A2 Stainless Steel $0.0201 $2.01
M4 Lock Washer A2 Stainless Steel $0.0127 $1.27
M4 Flat Washer A2 Stainless Steel $0.0116 $1.16
M3 x 0.5 x 20 Soc Cap A2 Stainless Steel $0.0453 $4.53
M3 Flat Washer A2 Stainless Steel $0.01 $1.00
M3 x 0.5 Hex Nut A2 Stainless Steel $0.0145 $1.45
M3 x 0.5 x 12 Soc Cap A2 Stainless Steel $0.0324 $3.24
  Subtotal $34.7685
  TOTAL $34.7685

so that's 885 parts for $34.77

all stainless steal all socket head cap screws... ( hex is even cheaper)

company is called nutty lol

http://www.nutty.com/

even tho i got to buy 100 washers its only $1

:)

its bulk but that just means more to give to your friends! ;)

Blessings!

~Russ

PS did i mention 7.95 for under $100 and free shipping over $100... cool!

Quote from ~Russ/Rwg42985 on December 23rd, 2012, 10:19 AM

Jeff,

check it:

Fasteners
M3 nuts
M3 washers
M3x12 mm screws
M3x20 mm screws
M4x40 mm screws for plywood mounting
M8x35 mm screws for 608 ball bearings
M8 washers
M8 nuts (one is for bowden cable holder)

i added some extra and some longer than specified...

OK so I'm not even going to look at Fastenal but u bet it would be over 125$ easy to but from them. ( and get less)

here it is:

Code: [Select]

M8 Flat Washer A2 Stainless Steel $0.036 $3.60
M8 x 1.25 Hex Nut A2 Stainless Steel $0.1155 $5.775
M8 x 1.25 x 35 Socket Head Cap Screw A2 Stainless $0.5486 $5.486
M4 x 0.7 x 45 Socket Head Cap Screw A2 Stainless $0.2099 $5.2475
M4 x 0.7 Hex Nut A2 Stainless Steel $0.0201 $2.01
M4 Lock Washer A2 Stainless Steel $0.0127 $1.27
M4 Flat Washer A2 Stainless Steel $0.0116 $1.16
M3 x 0.5 x 20 Soc Cap A2 Stainless Steel $0.0453 $4.53
M3 Flat Washer A2 Stainless Steel $0.01 $1.00
M3 x 0.5 Hex Nut A2 Stainless Steel $0.0145 $1.45
M3 x 0.5 x 12 Soc Cap A2 Stainless Steel $0.0324 $3.24
  Subtotal $34.7685
  TOTAL $34.7685

so that's 885 parts for $34.77

all stainless steal all socket head cap screws... ( hex is even cheaper)

company is called nutty lol

http://www.nutty.com/

even tho i got to buy 100 washers its only $1

:)

its bulk but that just means more to give to your friends! ;)

Blessings!

~Russ

PS did i mention 7.95 for under $100 and free shipping over $100... cool!

Your saving quite a lot, I spent $200.00 or more when I was working a regular job. Thanks for the link, http://www.nutty.com/ will have all of my business and those I refer to them from now on.:cool::D:P

Quote from Jeff Nading on December 23rd, 2012, 11:57 AM

Quote from ~Russ/Rwg42985 on December 23rd, 2012, 10:19 AM

Jeff,

check it:

Fasteners
M3 nuts
M3 washers
M3x12 mm screws
M3x20 mm screws
M4x40 mm screws for plywood mounting
M8x35 mm screws for 608 ball bearings
M8 washers
M8 nuts (one is for bowden cable holder)

i added some extra and some longer than specified...

OK so I'm not even going to look at Fastenal but u bet it would be over 125$ easy to but from them. ( and get less)

here it is:

Code: [Select]

M8 Flat Washer A2 Stainless Steel $0.036 $3.60
M8 x 1.25 Hex Nut A2 Stainless Steel $0.1155 $5.775
M8 x 1.25 x 35 Socket Head Cap Screw A2 Stainless $0.5486 $5.486
M4 x 0.7 x 45 Socket Head Cap Screw A2 Stainless $0.2099 $5.2475
M4 x 0.7 Hex Nut A2 Stainless Steel $0.0201 $2.01
M4 Lock Washer A2 Stainless Steel $0.0127 $1.27
M4 Flat Washer A2 Stainless Steel $0.0116 $1.16
M3 x 0.5 x 20 Soc Cap A2 Stainless Steel $0.0453 $4.53
M3 Flat Washer A2 Stainless Steel $0.01 $1.00
M3 x 0.5 Hex Nut A2 Stainless Steel $0.0145 $1.45
M3 x 0.5 x 12 Soc Cap A2 Stainless Steel $0.0324 $3.24
  Subtotal $34.7685
  TOTAL $34.7685

so that's 885 parts for $34.77

all stainless steal all socket head cap screws... ( hex is even cheaper)

company is called nutty lol

http://www.nutty.com/

even tho i got to buy 100 washers its only $1

:)

its bulk but that just means more to give to your friends! ;)

Blessings!

~Russ

PS did i mention 7.95 for under $100 and free shipping over $100... cool!

Your saving quite a lot, I spent $200.00 or more when I was working a regular job. Thanks for the link, http://www.nutty.com/ will have all of my business and those I refer to them from now on.:cool::D:P

Ooo Oooo! Do i get commission!!! ;) J/K.

They do also some really nice "kits"

Good stuff! ;)

Quote from ~Russ/Rwg42985 on December 23rd, 2012, 12:24 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on December 23rd, 2012, 11:57 AM

Quote from ~Russ/Rwg42985 on December 23rd, 2012, 10:19 AM

Jeff,

check it:

Fasteners
M3 nuts
M3 washers
M3x12 mm screws
M3x20 mm screws
M4x40 mm screws for plywood mounting
M8x35 mm screws for 608 ball bearings
M8 washers
M8 nuts (one is for bowden cable holder)

i added some extra and some longer than specified...

OK so I'm not even going to look at Fastenal but u bet it would be over 125$ easy to but from them. ( and get less)

here it is:

Code: [Select]

M8 Flat Washer A2 Stainless Steel $0.036 $3.60
M8 x 1.25 Hex Nut A2 Stainless Steel $0.1155 $5.775
M8 x 1.25 x 35 Socket Head Cap Screw A2 Stainless $0.5486 $5.486
M4 x 0.7 x 45 Socket Head Cap Screw A2 Stainless $0.2099 $5.2475
M4 x 0.7 Hex Nut A2 Stainless Steel $0.0201 $2.01
M4 Lock Washer A2 Stainless Steel $0.0127 $1.27
M4 Flat Washer A2 Stainless Steel $0.0116 $1.16
M3 x 0.5 x 20 Soc Cap A2 Stainless Steel $0.0453 $4.53
M3 Flat Washer A2 Stainless Steel $0.01 $1.00
M3 x 0.5 Hex Nut A2 Stainless Steel $0.0145 $1.45
M3 x 0.5 x 12 Soc Cap A2 Stainless Steel $0.0324 $3.24
  Subtotal $34.7685
  TOTAL $34.7685

so that's 885 parts for $34.77

all stainless steal all socket head cap screws... ( hex is even cheaper)

company is called nutty lol

http://www.nutty.com/

even tho i got to buy 100 washers its only $1

:)

its bulk but that just means more to give to your friends! ;)

Blessings!

~Russ

PS did i mention 7.95 for under $100 and free shipping over $100... cool!

Your saving quite a lot, I spent $200.00 or more when I was working a regular job. Thanks for the link, http://www.nutty.com/ will have all of my business and those I refer to them from now on.:cool::D:P

Ooo Oooo! Do i get commission!!! ;) J/K.

They do also some really nice "kits"

Good stuff! ;)

Sweet! too bad they don't have linear bearings, I need to replace my old bronze bushings.:s  The ones I get from Mcmasters seem to rumble after awhile.

Nate

Quote from firepinto on December 23rd, 2012, 03:51 PM

Quote from ~Russ/Rwg42985 on December 23rd, 2012, 12:24 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on December 23rd, 2012, 11:57 AM

Quote from ~Russ/Rwg42985 on December 23rd, 2012, 10:19 AM

Jeff,

check it:

Fasteners
M3 nuts
M3 washers
M3x12 mm screws
M3x20 mm screws
M4x40 mm screws for plywood mounting
M8x35 mm screws for 608 ball bearings
M8 washers
M8 nuts (one is for bowden cable holder)

i added some extra and some longer than specified...

OK so I'm not even going to look at Fastenal but u bet it would be over 125$ easy to but from them. ( and get less)

here it is:

Code: [Select]

M8 Flat Washer A2 Stainless Steel $0.036 $3.60
M8 x 1.25 Hex Nut A2 Stainless Steel $0.1155 $5.775
M8 x 1.25 x 35 Socket Head Cap Screw A2 Stainless $0.5486 $5.486
M4 x 0.7 x 45 Socket Head Cap Screw A2 Stainless $0.2099 $5.2475
M4 x 0.7 Hex Nut A2 Stainless Steel $0.0201 $2.01
M4 Lock Washer A2 Stainless Steel $0.0127 $1.27
M4 Flat Washer A2 Stainless Steel $0.0116 $1.16
M3 x 0.5 x 20 Soc Cap A2 Stainless Steel $0.0453 $4.53
M3 Flat Washer A2 Stainless Steel $0.01 $1.00
M3 x 0.5 Hex Nut A2 Stainless Steel $0.0145 $1.45
M3 x 0.5 x 12 Soc Cap A2 Stainless Steel $0.0324 $3.24
  Subtotal $34.7685
  TOTAL $34.7685

so that's 885 parts for $34.77

all stainless steal all socket head cap screws... ( hex is even cheaper)

company is called nutty lol

http://www.nutty.com/

even tho i got to buy 100 washers its only $1

:)

its bulk but that just means more to give to your friends! ;)

Blessings!

~Russ

PS did i mention 7.95 for under $100 and free shipping over $100... cool!

Your saving quite a lot, I spent $200.00 or more when I was working a regular job. Thanks for the link, http://www.nutty.com/ will have all of my business and those I refer to them from now on.:cool::D:P

Ooo Oooo! Do i get commission!!! ;) J/K.

They do also some really nice "kits"

Good stuff! ;)

Sweet! too bad they don't have linear bearings, I need to replace my old bronze bushings.:s  The ones I get from Mcmasters seem to rumble after awhile.

Nate

Nate I found the ones on ebay to work well when they are greased before they are used, here
http://myworld.ebay.com/spad_007/&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2754
Just click on his listings and make sure you use cold rolled steel rods, 8 mm, or more exact, 7.92 to 7.94 mm diameter. :D

Quote from Jeff Nading on December 23rd, 2012, 04:06 PM

Quote from firepinto on December 23rd, 2012, 03:51 PM

Quote from ~Russ/Rwg42985 on December 23rd, 2012, 12:24 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on December 23rd, 2012, 11:57 AM

Your saving quite a lot, I spent $200.00 or more when I was working a regular job. Thanks for the link, http://www.nutty.com/ will have all of my business and those I refer to them from now on.:cool::D:P

Ooo Oooo! Do i get commission!!! ;) J/K.

They do also some really nice "kits"

Good stuff! ;)

Sweet! too bad they don't have linear bearings, I need to replace my old bronze bushings.:s  The ones I get from Mcmasters seem to rumble after awhile.

Nate

Nate I found the ones on ebay to work well when they are greased before they are used, here
http://myworld.ebay.com/spad_007/&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2754
Just click on his listings and make sure you use cold rolled steel rods, 8 mm, or more exact, 7.92 to 7.94 mm diameter. :D

That looks like a good deal.  Can you get cold rolled in stainless?  I've been using SAE stainless rods and they are getting grooves in them.  They were supposed to be harder rods too.