Well over all it looks good Russ, like the motor trick and how you used a zip tie to support the tab and apply opposite pressure. :D:cool::P
Calibration
This section has been updated for the latest modified Marlin firmware (without bottom endstops).
Download https://github.com/jcrocholl/Marlin and make the following adjustments in Marlin.pde and Configuration.h.
DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD 250 mm center-to-center distance of the holes in the diagonal push rods.
DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET 175 mm horizontal offset from middle of printer to smooth rod center.
If your print head is too high or low in the middle of the print surface, adjust DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET by half mm and try again.
DELTA_EFFECTOR_OFFSET 33 mm horizontal offset of the universal joints on the end effector.
DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET 18 mm horizontal offset of the universal joints on the carriages.
DELTA_RADIUS (DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET-DELTA_EFFECTOR_OFFSET-DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET) effective horizontal distance bridged by diagonal push rods.
Z_HOME_POS 402 mm distance between nozzle and print surface after homing.
If you know the pitch and size of your timing belt pulleys, you can use http://calculator.josefprusa.cz/#MotorStuffSPMB to find the correct value for DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT for X, Y, Z.
Connect the USB cable to your computer and upload the firmware to the Arduino Mega.
With the USB cable connected to your computer, start pronterface.py.
Choose the USB interface, select 250000 baud, click the "Connect" button.
If the connection is established, you sould see some output from Marlin in the window on the right.
Move the vertical carriages by hand away from all the endstops, so that there is some space above the carriages, and below the print head.
Place an old book or thick corrugated cardboard on your heated bed or glass surface, to protect it in case of print head crash.
Connect the 12V power supply. Make sure you can turn it off quickly if the motors are moving in the wrong direction.
Send the G28 command (home all axes) by clicking on the little house button.
This should move all 3 carriages up until they hit the top endstops.
If the carriages start moving down instead of up, turn off the 12V power supply and then reverse the stepper motor connectors on the RAMPS board. Then try again.
Dial indicator
The top endstops are used for micro-calibrating the height of the print bed.
If you have a dial indicator, you can attach it to the print head with this.
After G28, move down to the print platform and try horizontal moves in X and Y direction.
The dial indicator will show if horizontal moves are parallel to the print bed or not.
Or you can attach a pen and draw lines on paper.
Or if you already have an extruder and a hotend, print the first layer of a large object.
If the first layer is too thin near one of the motors, turn the endstop screw in that carriage clockwise.
If the first layer is too thick near one of the motors, turn the endstop screw in that carriage counter-clockwise.
One full turn of M3 thread equals 0.5 mm.
After adjusting endstop screws, send G28 (home all axes) and try again.
With the USB cable connected to your computer, start pronterface.py.
ok its time i'm starting to put together the software part of the set up..
here is what i have found:
http://reprap.org/wiki/Rostockand that's with this firmware:Quote Calibration
This section has been updated for the latest modified Marlin firmware (without bottom endstops).
Download https://github.com/jcrocholl/Marlin and make the following adjustments in Marlin.pde and Configuration.h.
DELTA_DIAGONAL_ROD 250 mm center-to-center distance of the holes in the diagonal push rods.
DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET 175 mm horizontal offset from middle of printer to smooth rod center.
If your print head is too high or low in the middle of the print surface, adjust DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET by half mm and try again.
DELTA_EFFECTOR_OFFSET 33 mm horizontal offset of the universal joints on the end effector.
DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET 18 mm horizontal offset of the universal joints on the carriages.
DELTA_RADIUS (DELTA_SMOOTH_ROD_OFFSET-DELTA_EFFECTOR_OFFSET-DELTA_CARRIAGE_OFFSET) effective horizontal distance bridged by diagonal push rods.
Z_HOME_POS 402 mm distance between nozzle and print surface after homing.
If you know the pitch and size of your timing belt pulleys, you can use http://calculator.josefprusa.cz/#MotorStuffSPMB to find the correct value for DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT for X, Y, Z.
Connect the USB cable to your computer and upload the firmware to the Arduino Mega.
With the USB cable connected to your computer, start pronterface.py.
Choose the USB interface, select 250000 baud, click the "Connect" button.
If the connection is established, you sould see some output from Marlin in the window on the right.
Move the vertical carriages by hand away from all the endstops, so that there is some space above the carriages, and below the print head.
Place an old book or thick corrugated cardboard on your heated bed or glass surface, to protect it in case of print head crash.
Connect the 12V power supply. Make sure you can turn it off quickly if the motors are moving in the wrong direction.
Send the G28 command (home all axes) by clicking on the little house button.
This should move all 3 carriages up until they hit the top endstops.
If the carriages start moving down instead of up, turn off the 12V power supply and then reverse the stepper motor connectors on the RAMPS board. Then try again.
Dial indicator
The top endstops are used for micro-calibrating the height of the print bed.
If you have a dial indicator, you can attach it to the print head with this.
After G28, move down to the print platform and try horizontal moves in X and Y direction.
The dial indicator will show if horizontal moves are parallel to the print bed or not.
Or you can attach a pen and draw lines on paper.
Or if you already have an extruder and a hotend, print the first layer of a large object.
If the first layer is too thin near one of the motors, turn the endstop screw in that carriage clockwise.
If the first layer is too thick near one of the motors, turn the endstop screw in that carriage counter-clockwise.
One full turn of M3 thread equals 0.5 mm.
After adjusting endstop screws, send G28 (home all axes) and try again.
then after all that.. how do i get it to do anything?
like this:is there a program i'm missing?Quote With the USB cable connected to your computer, start pronterface.py.
after i figure that out...
here is the gcode creator's i have found:
http://kisslicer.com/index.html
or
http://slic3r.org/
what are you using haxar, jeff, and firepinto?
and how do i get from a sktchup/DWG file to this STL mesh file? or something?!?!
im lost... lol
also found this:
https://groups.google.com/forum/?fromgroups=#!topic/deltabot/7kwFP-0lImw
that may come in handy later.
ok so can some one give me a list of software i need? PLEASE!
thanks!
~Russ
ps no I'm not ready to print so... more work to do in the printer but i'm just trying to get my head warped around the software side of things.
oh and this is cool as all get out:
https://plus.google.com/photos/110997713826931701065/albums/5773609700932594497
Hey Russ,Quote from ~Russ/Rwg42985 on January 19th, 2013, 06:43 PM
I've been using Sfact for slicing bobbins, and been trying to use Slc3r for other things. Slic3r has issues with some models.
STL exports from Sketchup:
http://open-source-energy.org/?tid=356
You may be missing some python related programs. I use this wiki here:
Nate
Nate with this updated version I still can't open newly downloaded stl's I have to use my older version to open them, then the newer version will run it, don't know how to fix it.
Do you mean you can't slice with the new version? I actually haven't set up my newer versions to slice with sfact either. I just keep the old one for slicing while I run the printer with the newest version. With Slic3r becoming more of a separate window with extra features, I haven't bothered much with integrating it into pronterface. Plus now that i have a faster computer, I can slice while printing.Quote from Jeff Nading on January 19th, 2013, 07:42 PM Nate with this updated version I still can't open newly downloaded stl's I have to use my older version to open them, then the newer version will run it, don't know how to fix it.
I think there is an issue with the settings in pronterface, even though there are multiple versions in different folders, they are all looking at one settings file in a shared location. So with your new pronterface folder, it is probably directed to look for the skienforge folder in your older pronterface folder. It can only use a folder that is inside the folder that the new pronterface.py is located.
Nate
Nate when you say slice do you mean the same as sceining? If yes then this is the issue. I sure would like to run with the SD card with the computer not connected.Quote from firepinto on January 19th, 2013, 08:00 PM Do you mean you can't slice with the new version? I actually haven't set up my newer versions to slice with sfact either. I just keep the old one for slicing while I run the printer with the newest version. With Slic3r becoming more of a separate window with extra features, I haven't bothered much with integrating it into pronterface. Plus now that i have a faster computer, I can slice while printing.Quote from Jeff Nading on January 19th, 2013, 07:42 PM Nate with this updated version I still can't open newly downloaded stl's I have to use my older version to open them, then the newer version will run it, don't know how to fix it.
I think there is an issue with the settings in pronterface, even though there are multiple versions in different folders, they are all looking at one settings file in a shared location. So with your new pronterface folder, it is probably directed to look for the skienforge folder in your older pronterface folder. It can only use a folder that is inside the folder that the new pronterface.py is located.
Nate
Yep,Quote from Jeff Nading on January 19th, 2013, 08:19 PM Nate when you say slice do you mean the same as sceining? If yes then this is the issue. I sure would like to run with the SD card with the computer not connected.Quote from firepinto on January 19th, 2013, 08:00 PM Do you mean you can't slice with the new version? I actually haven't set up my newer versions to slice with sfact either. I just keep the old one for slicing while I run the printer with the newest version. With Slic3r becoming more of a separate window with extra features, I haven't bothered much with integrating it into pronterface. Plus now that i have a faster computer, I can slice while printing.Quote from Jeff Nading on January 19th, 2013, 07:42 PM Nate with this updated version I still can't open newly downloaded stl's I have to use my older version to open them, then the newer version will run it, don't know how to fix it.
I think there is an issue with the settings in pronterface, even though there are multiple versions in different folders, they are all looking at one settings file in a shared location. So with your new pronterface folder, it is probably directed to look for the skienforge folder in your older pronterface folder. It can only use a folder that is inside the folder that the new pronterface.py is located.
Nate
K, so I just tried this on my setup. I copied both the Skeinforge and sfact_profiles folders from my old printrun folder and pasted it into my new printrun folder. Then restarted the new pronterface.py, then the Slice (skeinforge) settings would load.
Do you have these programs installed before trying to run pronterface.py?
python, pyserial, pyreadline, wxPython
You can also try this version that was made to run off of a USB stick that don't depend on the other programs:
http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/printrun-win-Mar2012-slic3r.zip
can you upload the file here i cant get to the link where i am... :(Quote from firepinto on January 19th, 2013, 07:26 PM Do you have these programs installed before trying to run pronterface.py?
python, pyserial, pyreadline, wxPython
You can also try this version that was made to run off of a USB stick that don't depend on the other programs:
http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/printrun-win-Mar2012-slic3r.zip
also, i want to use
http://kisslicer.com/index.html
it seems like there are good news about it.. but this just generates the g code... yes?
and this pronterface.py is to interface the controller... yes? ( i can even find pronterface.py)
jeff i will watch it... i don't think i have seen it... :0 thanks1
Hmm I wonder if you have to turn off "hide system files" or something like that in windows.Quote from ~Russ/Rwg42985 on January 19th, 2013, 09:14 PM can you upload the file here i cant get to the link where i am... :(Quote from firepinto on January 19th, 2013, 07:26 PM Do you have these programs installed before trying to run pronterface.py?
python, pyserial, pyreadline, wxPython
You can also try this version that was made to run off of a USB stick that don't depend on the other programs:
http://koti.kapsi.fi/~kliment/printrun/printrun-win-Mar2012-slic3r.zip
also, i want to use
http://kisslicer.com/index.html
it seems like there are good news about it.. but this just generates the g code... yes?
and this pronterface.py is to interface the controller... yes? ( i can even find pronterface.py)
jeff i will watch it... i don't think i have seen it... :0 thanks1
Yeah the kislicer is comparable to sfact, and slic3r and they only slice the stl files into g code. pronterface is the printer controller that feeds the arduino the g code.
I attached the zip. :)
Nate
shined some light in there... good looking hod end Jeff!!!!! thanks!!!!!!!
Thanks Russ, I like the clamp you made, it looks good.:D:cool: Do you have the display and SD card reader working yet?
//LCD and SD support
#define ULTRA_LCD //general lcd support, also 16x2
#define SDSUPPORT // Enable SD Card Support in Hardware Console
//#define ULTIMAKERCONTROLLER //as available from the ultimaker online store.
//#define ULTIPANEL //the ultipanel as on thingiverse
// The RepRapDiscount Smart Controller
// http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Smart_Controller
#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER
//automatic expansion
#if defined(ULTIMAKERCONTROLLER) || defined(REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER)
#define ULTIPANEL
#define NEWPANEL
#endif
// Preheat Constants
#define PLA_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 180
#define PLA_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 70
#define PLA_PREHEAT_FAN_SPEED 255 // Insert Value between 0 and 255
#define ABS_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 240
#define ABS_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 100
#define ABS_PREHEAT_FAN_SPEED 255 // Insert Value between 0 and 255
#ifdef ULTIPANEL
#define NEWPANEL //enable this if you have a click-encoder panel
#define SDSUPPORT
#define ULTRA_LCD
#define LCD_WIDTH 20
#define LCD_HEIGHT 4
#else //no panel but just lcd
#ifdef ULTRA_LCD
#define LCD_WIDTH 16
#define LCD_HEIGHT 2
#endif
#endif
ok... well i got the system connected ( LCD, SD, Ramps, Arduino, No Other Stuff) just to see if i could get the electronics working.. so far i have been able to get the LCD and interface working...
i did have to enable LCD, SD, and controls in the sktch... stuff in red i changed to be active:i think that was it... that was in the configuration.h file...Quote //LCD and SD support
#define ULTRA_LCD //general lcd support, also 16x2
#define SDSUPPORT // Enable SD Card Support in Hardware Console
//#define ULTIMAKERCONTROLLER //as available from the ultimaker online store.
//#define ULTIPANEL //the ultipanel as on thingiverse
// The RepRapDiscount Smart Controller
// http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Smart_Controller
#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER
//automatic expansion
#if defined(ULTIMAKERCONTROLLER) || defined(REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER)
#define ULTIPANEL
#define NEWPANEL
#endif
// Preheat Constants
#define PLA_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 180
#define PLA_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 70
#define PLA_PREHEAT_FAN_SPEED 255 // Insert Value between 0 and 255
#define ABS_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 240
#define ABS_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 100
#define ABS_PREHEAT_FAN_SPEED 255 // Insert Value between 0 and 255
#ifdef ULTIPANEL
#define NEWPANEL //enable this if you have a click-encoder panel
#define SDSUPPORT
#define ULTRA_LCD
#define LCD_WIDTH 20
#define LCD_HEIGHT 4
#else //no panel but just lcd
#ifdef ULTRA_LCD
#define LCD_WIDTH 16
#define LCD_HEIGHT 2
#endif
#endif
and the software looks to be working on the PC... and i can load from the SD card from the controller ( no pc) but don't know how to print it from the controller just yet...
so that's cool!!!
now while i was trying to save the sketch file i got an error and i love fun programmers!!! stuff like this just make me smile :)
hahaha love it
ok so now what... i feel i'm almost there...
i'm going to work on the bed. it will be floating with stop switches... so if the head dose crash... it will stop.
( can some one tell me, if any of the end stop switches are hit... dose the entire printer stop and shut down know mater what end stop is hit????)
ok, i decided to leave the back support brace alone for now. i will just need to make sure that i don't print anything in the far corner or it will hit the brace...
after the heat bed i will need to make the supports for all the electronics under the base... then wire it all up mount the plastic spool and extruder and i'm almost ready to rock... ( end stops too)
feeling good. :) lets hope it all works... lol
~Russ
ok... well i got the system connected ( LCD, SD, Ramps, Arduino, No Other Stuff) just to see if i could get the electronics working.. so far i have been able to get the LCD and interface working...
i did have to enable LCD, SD, and controls in the sktch... stuff in red i changed to be active:i think that was it... that was in the configuration.h file...Quote //LCD and SD support
#define ULTRA_LCD //general lcd support, also 16x2
#define SDSUPPORT // Enable SD Card Support in Hardware Console
//#define ULTIMAKERCONTROLLER //as available from the ultimaker online store.
//#define ULTIPANEL //the ultipanel as on thingiverse
// The RepRapDiscount Smart Controller
// http://reprap.org/wiki/RepRapDiscount_Smart_Controller
#define REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER
//automatic expansion
#if defined(ULTIMAKERCONTROLLER) || defined(REPRAP_DISCOUNT_SMART_CONTROLLER)
#define ULTIPANEL
#define NEWPANEL
#endif
// Preheat Constants
#define PLA_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 180
#define PLA_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 70
#define PLA_PREHEAT_FAN_SPEED 255 // Insert Value between 0 and 255
#define ABS_PREHEAT_HOTEND_TEMP 240
#define ABS_PREHEAT_HPB_TEMP 100
#define ABS_PREHEAT_FAN_SPEED 255 // Insert Value between 0 and 255
#ifdef ULTIPANEL
#define NEWPANEL //enable this if you have a click-encoder panel
#define SDSUPPORT
#define ULTRA_LCD
#define LCD_WIDTH 20
#define LCD_HEIGHT 4
#else //no panel but just lcd
#ifdef ULTRA_LCD
#define LCD_WIDTH 16
#define LCD_HEIGHT 2
#endif
#endif
and the software looks to be working on the PC... and i can load from the SD card from the controller ( no pc) but don't know how to print it from the controller just yet...
so that's cool!!!
now while i was trying to save the sketch file i got an error and i love fun programmers!!! stuff like this just make me smile :)
hahaha love it
ok so now what... i feel i'm almost there...
i'm going to work on the bed. it will be floating with stop switches... so if the head dose crash... it will stop.
( can some one tell me, if any of the end stop switches are hit... dose the entire printer stop and shut down know mater what end stop is hit????)
ok, i decided to leave the back support brace alone for now. i will just need to make sure that i don't print anything in the far corner or it will hit the brace...
after the heat bed i will need to make the supports for all the electronics under the base... then wire it all up mount the plastic spool and extruder and i'm almost ready to rock... ( end stops too)
feeling good. :) lets hope it all works... lol
~Russ
I'm liking the LCD and remote SD card idea.:cool: Im not sure on the endstops, i think it would only stop the one axis from going any further during a print. Are you using Marlin for your sketch? That is what I plan on switching to.
Nate
Russ, the end stops are just for each individual stepper, one will not shut the machine down or stop the other steppers. All the end stops are for is to give the software a reference as to a home position and a starting point. To, be careful with the stepper drives, not connected to the steppers they could burn out really quick. So it would be best to have everything connected before you power anything up.
yes Marlin. but the delta hacked version... lolQuote I'm liking the LCD and remote SD card idea.:cool: Im not sure on the endstops, i think it would only stop the one axis from going any further during a print. Are you using Marlin for your sketch? That is what I plan on switching to.
NateI thought about it.. lol but decided to go for it anyway... i think it will be ok...Quote Russ, the end stops are just for each individual stepper, one will not shut the machine down or stop the other steppers. All the end stops are for is to give the software a reference as to a home position and a starting point. To, be careful with the stepper drives, not connected to the steppers they could burn out really quick. So it would be best to have everything connected before you power anything up.
on the end stops. if one is hit while its running what happens? ( homing yes. that i know) stops just that drive and it crashes or what?
i want a "stop all" switch for the bed... so i will need to configure something i guess... ( i could series all the end stops together i guess)