Hello fellow researchers.

It’s been several years since I posted here. The last was when I got scammed by the Papp engine group.

I am a retired Nuclear and Coal fired Power Plant, Control Room Operator. I have been involved with alternative energy research for over 40 years.

I have 46 solar panels, 12kw, that I use to offset 95% of my home’s electric usage, using net metering. I Have been trying to figure a way to use the energy as a catalyst to produce even more energy from the ether.

.Last year, I stumbled on a device, used in auto body shops to heat up metal and bolts to extremely high temps, in a short time, with little energy expended. The device, Mini-ductor 2, (MD2) appears to have a COP of at least 3, maybe more. Here is a short intro video video I posted on YouTube. I bought several of the units from Amazon, for testing purposes.

At present, I am working on a boiler design with a bundle of galvanized deck screws, with 4 turns of #10 copper wire wrapped around them. The MD2 supplies the coil with around 500 amps at 40 volts. The 500 amps is a resonant standing wave circuit with a very high magnetic field strength.

The 500 amps is producing an E field, through a 1 ohm inductor coil, oscillating between 2,000 and 9,000 Hz.;  At a right angle to the E field, is the B field. This B field is shaking the iron atoms in the galvanized/iron screw bundle, making them very hot. They would melt if not submerged in water. The neat thing about it is, there is no counter feed-back of the B field into the E field primary circuit. The E field is humming along, drawing 600 watts of grid power, while supplying at least 1800 watts of magnetic energy to the B field, producing lots of excess BTUs. Since 1 BTU is equal to 52 foot pounds of mechanical force, there is abundant energy to be tapped. The MD2 is rated at 1000 watts. I’m working to try to tap its full capability.

I used this configuration to heat water to supplement my home heating for over 4 months last winter.

I can furnish mass/energy calculations to show how I arrived at an estimated COP of 3, if you wish.

I am looking for collaborators to join in the effort of bringing this technology to the market place to supply HVAC and hot water to homes and industry.

On my wish list is to find more iron alloys with very high hysteresis  and eddy current capabilities.

The project is open source. Please feel free to share this info with any interested parties.

More info furnished on request. I am open to any suggestions you might have on furthering this research.

Regards,

zerwell

Chuck Bagwell

Chuck,

Excellent work and report!  I too have been trying to supplement my winter heating with hot water generated by solar and also by a vortex tube separator (water vortex tube).  I also did some cold fusion electrolisys cell testing and radiation monitoring (you can see those threads on my bench).  Even though my efforts are in a completely different area than yours, I commend your project and its simplicity. 

At this point, however, I am not in any kind of position to help bring to market your device.  I can barely bring myself or family to the market and have no means or resources to be able to help you.

I watched your you tube video and am impresed by it, but I would encourage you to post pictures and run data about your setup; as detailed as you can be.  Don't worry about over detailing anything, because in my experience, a majority of energy projects that I have seen cannot be replicated by most experimenters because of a lack of details, and  / or miscommunication.

Thank you again for your open source mindset and willingness to include all.
Ken

Ken,

Thank you for the kind review and feedback. I have received so much information from fellow researchers over the years and don't mind passing it along. I will be gearing up to document my research into both Solar and Electromagnetic induction efforts, over the next week or so.

In the meantime, it won't cost you a lot of money to take advantage of electromagnetic induction heating. Google "Nuwave induction cooktop" stove. I bought a couple from Amazon for less than $75. From my and a fellow experimenters testing, we found the portable stoves to be operating in excess of 300% efficiency. It helped heat my kitchen last winter by placing a 1/4" steel plate on top of my nuwave appliance, set at 375 deg. F for 3 months in auto, with a fan blowing across the plate. The only downside is the electronics cooling fan is loud. But, at a Coefficient of performance, output divided by input, of 3, I lived with the noise.

And, they work great to cook foods too. They require a pan made with steel, containing iron. The heat that actually cooks the food comes from the vibrating iron atoms in the pan material. You could call it an atomic iron  reactor, but that might scare off buyers. You can get more heat (BTUs) out, by inserting materials with high hysteresis properties.

Make no mistake, this is a over unity device, that is available, right off the shelf. More later.

Chuck

Thanks much Chuck for the info.

And just in case anyone missed that:

Quote from zerwell on September 4th, 2016, 01:58 PM

Make no mistake, this is a over unity device, that is available, right off the shelf. More later.

I wouldn't be surprised to learn if it indeed is a COP 3 device, turning electric energy into heat, much like the way heat pumps works, with the difference being that these devices don't rely on some additional heat exchanger of sort to get COP > 1.

The problem then, the way I see it anyway, lies in the Carnot cycle.
Sure it would be nice to be able to heat your home this way, using a far more simple device compared to a heat pump, for one it's most probably likely far more inexpensive compared to, say an air to air heat pump then, just as an example.

Which leaves the ever elusive question regarding turning heat back into mechanic/electric energy using a far more energy efficient way than what's offered right now, which of course means following the Carnot cycle rules/laws, which basically says if the cold side (with reference to a Stirling engine) isn't anywhere near absolute zero, I.E zero degrees Kelvin, the efficiency grade would by nature be relatively poor, say in the order of 20-30% at best depending on the (surrounding/out door) cold side temperature.

It's about high time some clever bastard finds a far more efficient heat exchanging method for turning heat into mechanical energy, then closing loops at home would be a matter of spending a few joyous hours in remodelling your heat-pump-of-sort to power an alternator, which powers...........everything else :D

Matt and Lynx,

Thank you for the comments. I agree with the Carnot cycle. It's a basic law.

I am only concerned with producing high grade heat, thermal BTUs. Since 60% of a typical home's energy cost is for HVAC and hot water, that is what my major efforts are geared for.

Electric motors are over 90% efficient these days.  To me it's not worth the effort to nudge a few more percent out of them.

Solar panels allow for the collection and storage of very large amounts of Electric energy, that I can use to run many motors, or anything else electric.

My home is 100% electric, with no fossil fuels available on site. As mentioned previously, I have 46 ground mount solar panels in service, that automatically synchronize to the grid every morning. They operate at 120/240 volts, single phase, at 60Hz. This summer, my average daily home load has been 30kwh. On sunny days I generate up to 80 kwh. The 50 extra kwh turns my electric meter backwards, and I store that energy in the grid, and build up a credit, that I use to offset my winter electric bill. This month's electric bill was a negative $610.53. The fuel for the panels is free, from our fusion energy power plant in the sky. There are no batteries  required.

Of course, without the electric grid, Solar panels will not operate, because they need the 60hz to sync to. However, I bought a SMA inverter which is fed by 7-280 watt panels, which will supply up to 1500 watts at 120v and 60Hz as long as the Sun shines, no batteries required. I have 18 panels, on two Solar tracking units, that increase their output by 40%.

So, long story short, I'll use electricity as a catalyst to power Electromagnetic induction heating devices to produce copious amounts of high Temperature BTUs for my HVAC requirements. Steam can be fed into an absorption unit to produce 40 F chilled water.

Finally, taking your hard earned money out of the bank, with less than a 1-2% yield and buying Solar equipment is the best investment on the Planet, in my opinion. Return on investment is 8-12%, with a 8-10 year payback. The panels will last a good 40 to 50 years. As a side note, each 250w solar panel will prevent the burning of 2 pounds of coal by the local utility, every day!

So, if anyone ever wants to get into solar, I am available for advice, free of charge.

Sorry for the long spiel, but free energy really gets me excited.

Chuck

Quote from zerwell on September 5th, 2016, 11:20 AM

So, if anyone ever wants to get into solar, I am available for advice, free of charge.

If I had the footprint, I would be doing solar for sure whether the utility buys back or not.  My primary issue is trees--I have 60+ large pines on a 1/3 acre lot.  And...   Lately we have been getting tremendous hail storms that would likely demolish most panels.

In any event, stick around Chuck, I may not be a resident here forever.  If that happens I will certainly be keeping my eyes open for land more suitable to a solar solution.

Good to see your commitment to going "off the grid", it's the only way :thumbsup: