So after I started printing nylon I started having problems with heat expanction and basically if to much nylon is hot it wanted to expand back up the tube and cool down. This would couse it to basically jam up. This was due to the orgnail hotend Jeff made was for 3mm filament then Jeff made an insert for 1.75 mm filament. So for abs this was fine but for nylon the extra space was a problem.

So I was going to make a new adapter for the peek part. Then after thinking about it and doing some research. I decided to try to make an all metal hotend.

I have the air supply on my printer running through a tube up to the endeffector. This Cooper tube also acts as a support for all the wires. So the new one will also need one.

I went at this with a 6" long 1" round aluminum stock.  The nosle I wanted to use was given to my by haxar a while back. It is a .35mm tip. It is threded with M6 with a pitch 1.    This tip was orderd from somewhere so it's a standard and I can get tips with other sizes and eazealy replace it with out taking anything apart.

I also already decided to use a brass insert tube as I wanted to make sure the channel was as slick as posibal. I was concerned that the drilling would not leave a clean smoth surface and that the AL would be week at the tip.

In the process of building this I decided to make some air channels with In the hotend it's self. Then as I was laying in bed I also got the idea to cool the brass Insert tube from inside the hotend. 

So out comes the "cool factor" all metal hotend.

I'm making a video and recorded the entire process of machining the AL and will post it when I'm done with the hotend.

But for now here are some immages to happy your fancy

Check out the water flow. That's what the air will be doing. You can even see the air cooling channel via the water coming out the back between the brass Insert and the AL hotend.

I will have a single wire heating element. Same wire Jeff used on the original. Its still good except the coating is falling off. But that just with time and use. That will to where you see the extra threds

Let me know your thoughts.

~Russ

let me know your thoughts.

~Russ

well it was a fail.. enjoy!

~Russ

The trick here is to use SS tubing instead of brass tubing. You don't want the heat to raise/travel up the tube you want to keep it localized, hinse the reason for using SS tubing, it is a poor conductor of heat. I have done it and it works well.

Hi Jeff.

Welcome. Back.

Thanks for the tip!  Yeah I can agree completely.

Still got this thing in a bag. :)   I should drill it out and insert SS.

I hope you have been well. Glad to see you

~Russ

Yea, I'm ok. After Hexar unlocked everything recently, I was flooded with emails and was able to log in again with the very same logins I was using before. No since in trying to answer any of the emails because they are way to old. Curious to say the least huh. Don't worry though, I won't be around much, just to busy and to old to worry about things anymore. If you watch this video of mine you can see the all metal hot end I built, notice the block of aluminum close to the nozzle, has a hole drilled through it for the element to slide into and the SS tube goes through it as well.

https://youtu.be/BGnILB17LOg