I finally found a breakout board for an Arduino platform that can handle 35 volts, with a total of 4 higher voltage stepper driver boards to drive 4 nema 23 stepper motors here

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281209422928?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/usr/protoneer

This part is currently out of stock, but I think could be the one to use.
Open for discussion, what do you think? :cool::D:P

Quote from Jeff Nading on December 15th, 2013, 07:08 PM

I finally found a breakout board for an Arduino platform that can handle 35 volts, with a total of 4 higher voltage stepper driver boards to drive 4 nema 23 stepper motors here

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281209422928?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

http://www.ebay.com/usr/protoneer

This part is currently out of stock, but I think could be the one to use.
Open for discussion, what do you think? :cool::D:P

Maybe I looked too quick, but I didn't see the sketch file that drives it.  If you can find that, then yes, I'd be excited.  The reason I say this is because with the source code that understands G-Code, I could modify it to do all sorts of custom commands.

The USB controller I have with my Probotix machine is PIC based and proprietary.  I'd love to side-step that restriction and have something totally OpenSource to play with.  Can you say, "The sky is the limit."  hehe.

UPDATE:

I did find these:
http://reprap.org/wiki/Teacup_Firmware
http://reprap.org/wiki/Marlin

Not sure if they are what you are all using or not.

I also stumbled across this:
http://blog.think3dprint3d.com/2013/12/Duet-Arduino-Due-compatible-3DPrinter-controller.html
http://www.reprappro.com/new-electronics-new-reprap-new-distributor/
https://vimeo.com/80747275



So my more general question would be:  How is anyone supposed to stay on top of all this gadgetry?  :)

I think I did see some type of firmware/software. Is this what is needed?

https://github.com/grbl/grbl

Yes this is under frequently asked questions here

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281209422928?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

I have an Arduino Uno board, this shield will plug right into it. :cool::D:P

Quote from Jeff Nading on December 16th, 2013, 03:15 PM

I think I did see some type of firmware/software. Is this what is needed?

https://github.com/grbl/grbl

Yes this is under frequently asked questions here

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281209422928?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

I have an Arduino Uno board, this shield will plug right into it. :cool::D:P

Ok Matt, I just got an email through Ebay from the guy that builds the shield board, here's what he said.


Hi. Nema 23 steppers that start to get serious. I have run a few of them with Pololu DRV8825 drivers on this shield but going over 2AMP is where it gets harder. Things like cable connectors start to be an issue and to be honest I would recommend using the breakout headers on the left of the X axis socket to driver external drivers like Gecko's.

Currently I have two pages covering majority of the details:
http://blog.protoneer.co.nz/arduino-cnc-shield/
http://blog.protoneer.co.nz/arduino-cnc-shield-v3-00-assembly-guide/

Software wise I use :
http://www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Universal-G-Code-Sender

It basically sends one command at a time to the Arduino and displays the status of the machine.

Hope this helps.

Ok adding more to the little shield board, this is to connect Gecko stepper drives.
Just received another Email from Berus. :cool::D:P

Hi Jeff.

I have listed a few more CNC Shields : http://www.ebay.com/itm/281228476199

Here he is sharing how to connect the Gecko stepper drivers
this will be the first two pins on the external driver break out on my little shield
TERMINAL 7 Enable
TERMINAL 10 Common GROUND

This will be for each axis on the external driver break out on my little shield
TERMINAL 8 Direction
TERMINAL 9 Step

Should not be to hard to hook it up and get it going..

Kind regards,
Berus

Found Nema 23 stepper motors rated for 2A here
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-pcs-nema-23-stepper-motor-185oz-in-6leads-2A-single-shaft-CNC-Router-/131003929339?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1e807152fb

So with these stepper motors you could use the Pololu DRV8825 drivers
http://www.pololu.com/product/2133/
and not have to use the gecko drivers because the Nema 23 stepper motors are rated for 2A, which is what the Pololu DRV8825 drivers are rated for. So it would be a "win win" for a router table build, inexpensive. What do you think Matt?

So what do you think about the additional information above Matt?:D

Quote from Jeff Nading on December 18th, 2013, 02:36 PM

So what do you think about the additional information above Matt?:D

I like the higher amperage and higher voltage of the 8825s, but those Nema 23s may be a little small to thrust a router around.  Mine are 280 torque; the ones in your link are only 185.  I suppose if everything runs smooth enough and you're willing to give up a little speed, the setup you're proposing might work pretty good.

I would like to see some sort of heat sink on those drivers though.  Running naked like that it would take less than a second to pop one; at least with a heat sink you might start to smell something before it lets go.

All in all, I would be willing to give it a shot.  Take a simple Arduino, this shield with 8825 drivers, compile & load the Marlin sketch or similar, hook-up the motors and power supply...   Yeah, you'd be off to the races.

Quote from Matt Watts on December 18th, 2013, 05:23 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on December 18th, 2013, 02:36 PM

So what do you think about the additional information above Matt?:D

I like the higher amperage and higher voltage of the 8825s, but those Nema 23s may be a little small to thrust a router around.  Mine are 280 torque; the ones in your link are only 185.  I suppose if everything runs smooth enough and you're willing to give up a little speed, the setup you're proposing might work pretty good.

I would like to see some sort of heat sink on those drivers though.  Running naked like that it would take less than a second to pop one; at least with a heat sink you might start to smell something before it lets go.

All in all, I would be willing to give it a shot.  Take a simple Arduino, this shield with 8825 drivers, compile & load the Marlin sketch or similar, hook-up the motors and power supply...   Yeah, you'd be off to the races.

Yes the heat sinks on the drivers would be a must, with a cooling fan, I even have them on both of my printers. What I was thinking on torque was to incorporate belt reduction boxes to increase the torque a little, would not have to have much, just enough to bring it up to meet the specs of yours. You would loose some speed though. Maybe increased voltage would help there.

Quote from Jeff Nading on December 18th, 2013, 05:37 PM

Yes the heat sinks on the drivers would be a must, with a cooling fan, I even have them on both of my printers. What I was thinking on torque was to incorporate belt reduction boxes to increase the torque a little, would not have to have much, just enough to bring it up to meet the specs of yours. You would loose some speed though. Maybe increased voltage would help there.

Speeds and feeds are pretty important -- yes, you can actually go too slow.  If you are not producing the proper chip size when cutting, you will damage your bits and ruin the cut.

It's a pretty fine balance to get a machine that has the ability to hold it's position (with enough torque and rigidity) and still move fast enough, yet retain accuracy.  Mine uses lead screws for torque amplification and though it seems impossible to move the router head by hand when energized, when you are cutting there is a surprising amount of solid force needed to prevent chatter at the bit.  Any slop in the mechanism will show itself immediately.  CNC routing is certainly a bit different in that respect than 3D Printing or Plasma cutting.  Just cutting wood and plastic I'm able to see the limitations of my machine, which is why I've avoided trying to cut aluminum--just don't think it can handle it.  Seriously, if your machine is strong enough that you can whack the side of the router head with a hammer and all it does is go thunk, then you can cut most anything.  If you whack it with a hammer and it moves, vibrates or does anything else, no way charlie, forget cutting metal.

Quote from Matt Watts on December 18th, 2013, 06:36 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on December 18th, 2013, 05:37 PM

Yes the heat sinks on the drivers would be a must, with a cooling fan, I even have them on both of my printers. What I was thinking on torque was to incorporate belt reduction boxes to increase the torque a little, would not have to have much, just enough to bring it up to meet the specs of yours. You would loose some speed though. Maybe increased voltage would help there.

Speeds and feeds are pretty important -- yes, you can actually go too slow.  If you are not producing the proper chip size when cutting, you will damage your bits and ruin the cut.

It's a pretty fine balance to get a machine that has the ability to hold it's position (with enough torque and rigidity) and still move fast enough, yet retain accuracy.  Mine uses lead screws for torque amplification and though it seems impossible to move the router head by hand when energized, when you are cutting there is a surprising amount of solid force needed to prevent chatter at the bit.  Any slop in the mechanism will show itself immediately.  CNC routing is certainly a bit different in that respect than 3D Printing or Plasma cutting.  Just cutting wood and plastic I'm able to see the limitations of my machine, which is why I've avoided trying to cut aluminum--just don't think it can handle it.  Seriously, if your machine is strong enough that you can whack the side of the router head with a hammer and all it does is go thunk, then you can cut most anything.  If you whack it with a hammer and it moves, vibrates or does anything else, no way charlie, forget cutting metal.

Ya, I have not experienced CNC routing to know what to expect with a small routing table. I know my CNC plasma table when converted to routing will have the speed and torque needed to do any job when cutting aluminum.
I guess this is where I need to concentrate my efforts, I need to cast a bracket to mount a router, make a few tweaks here and there in Mach 3 then go for it.:D

To solve this problem of low torque, speed, higher amperage's and voltage, one should go with the Gecko stepper drivers. Mate them to this shield board, plug the shield board into the uno Arduino, couple nema 34 steppers to the Geckos, then you will have a CNC strong enough to do routing, even aluminum.:cool::D:P