Hey guys,

I have been looking and reading a lot over the past few weeks and have learned lots :)
I did feel the need however to see if I could clarify a few things. This forum is a maze of information and it can sometimes be difficult to decipher information.

So between Stans voltage intensifier circuits, Load capacitance calculations, dielectric constants, alternator wiring diagrams, Technical briefs, Tesla coil discharges, Flux combobulators, and whatever else :P

Could someone please tell me what the operating voltage and current on Stan's cell was?

her talks about -20kV and -20kV for the injector, I wonder if the ss wire coating can withstand this.

Quote from Alan on September 16th, 2013, 07:40 AM

her talks about -20kV and -20kV for the injector, I wonder if the ss wire coating can withstand this.

Wow that's quite a bit! Any idea what the current might have been?

Quote from zaneaussie on September 16th, 2013, 06:26 AM

Hey guys,

I have been looking and reading a lot over the past few weeks and have learned lots :)
I did feel the need however to see if I could clarify a few things. This forum is a maze of information and it can sometimes be difficult to decipher information.

So between Stans voltage intensifier circuits, Load capacitance calculations, dielectric constants, alternator wiring diagrams, Technical briefs, Tesla coil discharges, Flux combobulators, and whatever else :P

Could someone please tell me what the operating voltage and current on Stan's cell was?

The current was said to have been under two amps, so no brute force of amperage was used, just high voltage pulses.:D

Quote from Jeff Nading on September 16th, 2013, 03:45 PM

The current was said to have been under two amps, so no brute force of amperage was used, just high voltage pulses.:D

Hey guys,

Yeah really appreciate the information. Have been doing some more reading on the VIC circuits etc and it seems the smaller the current the better.

Quote from Jeff Nading on September 16th, 2013, 03:45 PM

The current was said to have been under two amps, so no brute force of amperage was used, just high voltage pulses.:D

And that was less than 2 Amps at battery (12) Volts I think.  So something like 20 Watts.

Hey,

Just as an addition to this,and i'm certain it has probably been discussed before but if the lower the current the better has anyone tried or thought of trying a tesla coil for this purpose? you could easily tune the frequency to what you need in particular very high frequencies and also very easy to get extremely high voltage with very very small current ...from the information I have been able to ascertain we are talking micro amps!

I tried it with my Slayer Exciter and didn't see any bubbles, but I also don't have a layer of Chromium Oxide on the plates.

My particular Slayer Exciter runs at 596kHz.

Quote from Dog-One on September 16th, 2013, 06:39 PM

I tried it with my Slayer Exciter and didn't see any bubbles, but I also don't have a layer of Chromium Oxide on the plates.

My particular Slayer Exciter runs at 596kHz.

Hey Dog,

Yeah it's funny you should mention that because I tried recently driving a cell with a ignition coil kit that I have made up for a Jacob's ladder type set-up. The Jacob's ladder worked fine and the voltage being driven by an ignition coil and timing circuit probably would have ranged in the 50KV range, no idea at what frequency. Perhaps it is somehow dependent on current?

You still would have expected to see bubbles as did I but nope..nothing..nadda!

Nice coil by the way :)

HV and no bubbles is the start, at least the field doesnt collapse over the water and at least no current enters the water, now it must be tuned to the resonance properties of water I think.

you could try to see if the water or watercap holds a charge by shorting the 2 tubes while the input is disconnected

Quote from Alan on September 17th, 2013, 07:57 AM

HV and no bubbles is the start, at least the field doesnt collapse over the water and at least no current enters the water, now it must be tuned to the resonance properties of water I think.

Maybe.  It could be as lamare suggests, that an oxide coating on one or both plates allows the cell to act more like a capacitor, then the tuning becomes a matter of having an optimized resonant circuit.  The gas will form as the water capacitor breaks down repeatedly.

Another possibility is that you need physical cavitation within the cell.  In this scenario, you want the tuning to be based on the physical properties of the cell, to allow maximum vibration.

Or...  You might want all three happening using various harmonics.

Still very controversial and no body has really proven it one way or another.

Hey guys,

Im still very curious as to why no electrolysis takes place. I originally thought perhaps my ignition system wasn't working properly but now seeing Dog-one also got no results and no electrolysis I have to wonder why...

Can someone explain this?

I remember seeing video's on youtube in which they create a HV plasma spark through the water, and not a single bubble was formed, can't find the video's back.

try to put a fl lamp in/on the water and see if it lights up.

Quote from Alan on September 18th, 2013, 03:30 AM

I remember seeing video's on youtube in which they create a HV plasma spark through the water, and not a single bubble was formed, can't find the video's back.

try to put a fl lamp in/on the water and see if it lights up.

Those videos are on this forum some where.

Here is a Photo of our test cell with bulb...

Quote from gpssonar on September 18th, 2013, 03:55 PM

Here is a Photo of our test cell with bulb...

That's pretty much what I get with my Slayer Exciter--fluorescent bulbs light up nicely but the water just sits there pretty much undisturbed.  Now if I short the output through the water, the light goes out.  Again with no oxide layer on one or both plates, I would expect that actually.

Quote from Matt Watts on September 18th, 2013, 11:17 PM

Quote from gpssonar on September 18th, 2013, 03:55 PM

Here is a Photo of our test cell with bulb...

That's pretty much what I get with my Slayer Exciter--fluorescent bulbs light up nicely but the water just sits there pretty much undisturbed.  Now if I short the output through the water, the light goes out.  Again with no oxide layer on one or both plates, I would expect that actually.

I'll have to try this, looks cool. Speaking of cool D1 = Matt Watts, like the new look but miss the helmet,  :P:P:D:cool:.