Quote from geert8550 on December 1st, 2012, 07:27 AM

My motors come from this supplier:
http://www.longs-motor.com/

my project in progress:

That is very cool Geert, I was wondering what happened to you. Good to see your build, thanks.:cool::D:P

Quote from Jeff Nading on December 1st, 2012, 12:47 PM

Quote from geert8550 on December 1st, 2012, 07:27 AM

My motors come from this supplier:
http://www.longs-motor.com/

my project in progress:

That is very cool Geert, I was wondering what happened to you. Good to see your build, thanks.:cool::D:P

Jeff,
You know that I teach. The exams are coming so much work.
I met someone with extensive experience in 3D printers build, he lives not far from here. A student but already has his own company, he makes parts for the Prusa and sells them. His web site will open in January, I try to help him with some feadback and 3D graphics for his site. I will post the progress on my facebook and this forum.


http://www.facebook.com/Charlies3DTechnologies
http://www.charlies3dtechnologies.eu/storepage1675904.aspx

Jeff, you've seen that a working group has been established for an open source research at the Keshe technology in Keshe forum?

Geert

Quote from geert8550 on December 1st, 2012, 11:16 PM

Quote from Jeff Nading on December 1st, 2012, 12:47 PM

Quote from geert8550 on December 1st, 2012, 07:27 AM

My motors come from this supplier:
http://www.longs-motor.com/

my project in progress:

That is very cool Geert, I was wondering what happened to you. Good to see your build, thanks.:cool::D:P

Jeff,
You know that I teach. The exams are coming so much work.
I met someone with extensive experience in 3D printers build, he lives not far from here. A student but already has his own company, he makes parts for the Prusa and sells them. His web site will open in January, I try to help him with some feadback and 3D graphics for his site. I will post the progress on my facebook and this forum.


http://www.facebook.com/Charlies3DTechnologies
http://www.charlies3dtechnologies.eu/storepage1675904.aspx

Jeff, you've seen that a working group has been established for an open source research at the Keshe technology in Keshe forum?

Geert

Hi Geert, I knew you taught and knew it had to do with 3d graphic's and software of some kind, but did not know what exactly.:D Also, the meaning of what I was trying to say was, [and said it very poorly:blush:],  with me seeing your build of the 3d printer, just added to my realization that this and all that you do for us here at the forum and everyone else that you help, the good that you do,  was and is a very a good thing. Giving is better than receiving. Didn't mean anything else but the fact that you are a great and kind person and enjoy having you here on the forum. :D There are many other's here, who I could say this about as well.
I have not been to Keshe's forum in about two weeks and didn't know there was a work group there now. Thanks for telling me, I will check it out, let me know If I can help with your 3d printer build, your friend, Jeff.:D:P

Deleted

looks all generic but... wow look at the price...

http://www.sainsmart.com/mega2560-smart-lcd-2004-controller-a4988-ramps-1-4-3d-printer-kit-for-reprap.html?___store=en&___store=en

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/231065200791?lpid=82

just looking...

Maybe a dumb question here but  Can a 3d printer handle a square feedstock?  The round shape forces the use of extrusion process.  Just thinking out loud  but maybe a square shaped stock could be molded into lengths then joined together.  Also What types of plastic items would be best to collect for those doing the recycle?

Quote from Blazer on December 4th, 2013, 10:18 AM

Maybe a dumb question here but  Can a 3d printer handle a square feedstock?  The round shape forces the use of extrusion process.  Just thinking out loud  but maybe a square shaped stock could be molded into lengths then joined together.  Also What types of plastic items would be best to collect for those doing the recycle?

Square stock filament could be used, but the problem I see right off the bat is you would have to modify the extruder. Another would be one of storage, it's so convenient to have long lengths the filament on a spool, 2.2 lb's worth of filament, doesn't take up much space either.
Would also take time to splice lengths of filament together, say if you were in the middle of a print, it would not be a good thing, when one has to splice filament to continue a print.
The plastic most commonly used for 3d printing is ABS plastic.
Most old tv's, computer monitors, stereos, paper printers and so on are built with ABS plastic, could be recycled into useable plastic for 3d printing.
Hope this helps Blazer.:D

Thanks Jeff but my thought was to mold it into a sheet then run it through a slitter.  The sheet could be made as long as we want?  The sheets would be say 6" wide and coiled like steel coils prior to the slitting process, then put on to the 2.2 lb spools.  I also believe quality in regaurds to thickness would be simpler.  Thanks Dave

Quote from Blazer on December 5th, 2013, 09:15 AM

Thanks Jeff but my thought was to mold it into a sheet then run it through a slitter.  The sheet could be made as long as we want?  Thanks Dave

Oh, ok Dave I get what your talking about now, so square stock on a spool. Do you have a way of forming sheets of plastic? What thickness and width are you talking here? Thanks. :D

Thanks Jeff   For 3mm my math indicates .1047" x .1047" thick and width.  Since I have 0 experience with abs or pla and still unsure of its properties when heated anything will be a best guess.  Most of my experience is with expandable urathane products.  I am thinking pouring melted abs (600 F) onto 6" wide solid base mold, add a top piece then compress with a series of rollers to the .1047" spec. +/- .004.  Cool down, then coil onto a roll or possibly move it to a slitter process while still on the base.  Length would be dependent on space and resources of course. A  6" wide may yield up to 50+ lengths of filiment. The ultimate goal of course to provide a low cost simpler process to produce a good quality filliment.  Any thoughts or input are appreciated.  Toxicity? Demolding?

Quote from Blazer on December 6th, 2013, 10:01 AM

Thanks Jeff   For 3mm my math indicates .1047" x .1047" thick and width.  Since I have 0 experience with abs or pla and still unsure of its properties when heated anything will be a best guess.  Most of my experience is with expandable urathane products.  I am thinking pouring melted abs (600 F) onto 6" wide solid base mold, add a top piece then compress with a series of rollers to the .1047" spec. +/- .004.  Cool down, then coil onto a roll or possibly move it to a slitter process while still on the base.  Length would be dependent on space and resources of course. A  6" wide may yield up to 50+ lengths of filiment. The ultimate goal of course to provide a low cost simpler process to produce a good quality filliment.  Any thoughts or input are appreciated.  Toxicity? Demolding?

I measured my 3mm filament, it comes out to be .1125" dia.. The print temperature of ABS is 230 degrees C., Don' really know what it would be to melt a batch the size we're talking here.
I can pretty much stay in the same room while I am printing something, but again a batch this size, I don't know about the toxicity level.
What do you think about a teflon coated mold for demolding agent, you could use the same mold over and over this way. We use this in aircraft, you can buy it in liquid form and spray it on like paint. Don't know the cost of it though, I would imagine it's pricey.
Anyway it sounds like a plan :cool::D:P.

Been a long time since I've been around but... My co-worker purchased a 3d printer (foreign knock off of maker bot, I think he said CDC brand?) and has gotten me thinkinking about them again. I remembered there was a few of you on here that had them. I was looking at doing something with the "replicape" if any of you have heard of it. It takes the Beagle Bone Black and instead of using shields like you do with arduino and raspberry pi, it uses capes. This cape comes with drivers for 32 micro stepping and pwm for heaters, inputs for end stops etc. Anyway, the price of the replicape isn't cheap but since you're able to easily integrate it with a beagle bone black, this makes it so your printer has a full fledged GUI. This makes it easier to design slice and print from one machine. Thoughts?

Can you print without the need of a usb connection to your computer, this is a huge plus for Arduino controlled 3d printers, using an sd card and it's own display.

I would like to build a Rostock 3D printer. Can some one tell me if these would work?

http://m.ebay.com/itm/291184578609?nav=SEARCH

http://m.ebay.com/itm/300987383770?nav=SEARCH

Are there any drawbacks to any of these parts? Also, how hard is it to remove the print head on these? I would like to make a sharpie adaptor to print pcbs for etching. And is there a way to turn off the hot bed for the purpose of printing pcbs? Any help is very much appreciated.
Thanks.

Hi Jamie, the second option is just way to expensive for the Rostock, the first is much better, but I don't see the hotend included. The Rostock only uses four stepper motors so you will only need four stepper drivers as well. The SS rods look a little short as to the one I am building right now, but will work with the length of belt they are offering with the kit, just depends on how tall you want to print an object or part.

You will need wire and connectors, Arduino board, ramps board, four stepper driver boards, heated bed, four stepper motors, three endstops, six linear bearings, seven 608 bearings, six SS rods, six yoke rods, belts GT2 type three GT2 pulleys, hobbed tube for the extruder, teflon tubing, Power supply, zip ties, LCD, SD card and reader, hardware and just a few other things. I really don't see any other drawbacks to the first kit, just know upfront there will be a cost to all of this but prices have come down. To give you an example, two years ago I bought a ramps board for just under $200.00 and I had to put it all together, I can now find it for $20.00 already to go, so these items are coming down in price. I just uploaded this video to show the progress I have made.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u1Qi93Lf46M#ws

The part you are talking about to print PCB to etch them is found on thingiverse and it's very easy to remove the hotend to install this printed part to hold a sharpie, I have printed these myself. On the heated bed all you do there is not turn it on, or you can install a switch to turn it off.
Jamie if you would like I can send you all the updated links to buy parts cheaply for your Rostock build, just PM me your email and I'll shoot them to you, Jeff.

Thanks a bundle, Jeff. I sincerely appreciate it. 

That is a good solid looking build you have there. I'll have to use your ideas so i know ill have a darn good machine! I hate to bombard you with questions but, how much did all of the plexy glass run you?
Thanks for all of the help and all of the suggestions. You do some good work and I appreciate your willingness to pass it on.

Thanks Jamie, I bought the plexi glass for next to nothing, It was a display of some kind, all one piece I cut it up to fit my needs, oh I payed $10.00 for it.

Jamie some of the links in the first post in this thread are still good so check them out as well, the power supply for one.

Just want to point out I designed a different set of power supply brackets for the NPS-700 awhile ago.  They are a lot more simple, have better fan safety, and leaves room for different home brew style wire connections if the matching socket isn't used.

http://open-source-energy.org/?topic=1814.0

Enjoy :)

Wow Nate that is some nice work, I'll have to print some, thanks.

Hey! Nice work Firepinto. Gives it a cleaner look too. You guys are giving me a lot of good ideas. Can't wait to start building. Money is a little tight right now so im going to have to do little bits at a time and its driving
me crazy having to wait. Oh well, i have some stuff i can build the frame out of so I can get the pieces cut. Its a start anyway.
Thanks for the ideas.

Say Jamie did you receive my last email with all the hyper links today, the prices in it are really good, best I have found thus far.

Thanks a bundle Jeff! You've really helped me out so much. I got a pretty good idea of how this goes together, thanks to you pointing me in the right direction. With all of the links you have sent, i can compile a parts check list and start ordering in little bits. I can see from some of the older links above to the newer links that a lot of this stuff has come down in price considerably which really helps me out too. Those new links you sent will help me figure out the most economic way to order parts. I really appreciate you going out of your way to help me out here. I hope one day i can return the favor.
So thank you so very very much Jeff!