Learned much today.
L2 L3 must be close coupled.
L1 L2 must be distanced 15mm for lowest current draw. L1 must be reversed, north facing L2
Ferrite rods on both sides of L1 works best (8 above 8 below, radial MnZn ferrite rods).
L3 output must be full rectified. DC signal must be grounded, and then 35uF caps is enough to stabelise the DC voltage. This makes it easy to read the power (DC).
I now have 44nf on C5, this gave the highest current in L2 But might need to tune more (didnt have 1nF tuned with 10nF)
L3 load is now 41W 230V halogen lightbulb. It even becomes brighter when the rectifier DC cap of 36uF is added (and 1 side is grounded).
DC really needs earth ground, else it wont rectify.
C6 is now 50nF didnt tune this one, so still able to play with it. (tune).
Lamp is very bright. but input amps also are still pretty high. (input power was 1,5A 24V, 36W)
First need to fine tune L2 with c5 for max current while c6=0
Then start tuning c6.
Somehow the power supply goes bezerk when tuning. ch1 is not connected, but suddenly the relais activate, and ch1 shows current and voltage.
might remove the ground connection I made to the negative og the power supply.
Very strange behaviour.
With 12V 21W load. adding C6 didint detune L2. very promising. might need to go back to that lamp, but it restricts the voltage. current goes up. Feel I need the higher voltage from the 41W 230V halogen bulb.